Aftermarket 2.0L injectors and rails? Options

[JeffBowlsby]

Anyone used these? I thought there was a thread on them a couple years ago but could not locate it.

https://injector-rehab.com/product/complete...ctors-included/

[JamesJ]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=363611

This thread, Jeff?

[914Sixer]

Yes, I started a thread about them. At the time they were unable to get all the parts. I even expressed the idea of a group buy and they seemed open about it. He used the different nos injectors I had for the testing comparison. Injectors for kit are supposed to be spot on. I will have to find his business card.

[914sgofast2]

I think there was a discussion of these new style Bosch injector kits somewhere over on the Samba website in the Bay Window Bus Forum. That company had made a new style injector kit for use in VW Buses too.

[gord]

I'm bumping this thread because I just installed these in my car (a 1972 that was swapped to a 2.0 with D-Jet by a previous owner). I had 2 leaking injectors, and found the Injector Rehab solution after I was unable to successfully order 4 new hose-style injectors.

Some observations:

1) The overall quality is excellent, and everything you need to plumb it into the fuel line is included. The supplied AN fittings allow much better placement of the fuel hose as it comes into the rail than the factory setup.

2) Installing this requires modifying the factory fuel injection harness by removing the ancient D-Jet quick-connect spade connectors and replacing them with modern Jetronic connectors (not sure if this is what L-Jet already uses?). While everything you need to plumb the fuel line is included, you will need to source the electrical parts yourself (I found Jetronic connectors on Amazon, crimped them in and insulated with heat-shrink tubing).

3) It took me a couple of tries to get the new fuel injectors to seat correctly. I had a massive vacuum leak the first time I started the motor (idle was around 4000 rpm) and it was all because one injector was no longer seated properly. Basically you need to fiddle with them as you bolt down the rail so they don't move out of position while you're tightening it up.

Here are pictures of the completed install:

[gord]

Double post.

[Zaffer]

Thanks for the pictures! I might go this route with my FI, once I get to that point. A more modern injector is enticing, even with keeping the factory FI system!

[JeffBowlsby]

Nice to see this installed, thanks for posting. Can you elaborate?

Do the fuel rails or AN fittings touch the engine tin?

How rigid is this assembly? Its cantilevered, what are the possibilities that it will deflect enough to cause the injector bodies to become dislodged?

Are these post engine install only? It appears that the fuel rails would conflict with the engine shelf on each side if the engine were dropped.

Do the fuel injector branches on the harness really need to be extended? From the photos, there appears to be plenty of harness left if the harness connections are correctly rotated. Be sure to cover any exposed wires 100% in heat shrink. Engine heat will be the death of the exposed wires in short order. Also concerned about the same condition in your existing harness by cyl #3 in the second photo, and hope those wires are not already baked.

[gord]

Nice to see this installed, thanks for posting. Can you elaborate?

Do the fuel rails or AN fittings touch the engine tin?

Nothing touches the engine tin, they mount on the same posts as the factory pressure/retaining plate. My existing injectors no longer had the L-shaped hose and were on short straight hose pieces from the injector body to the factory fuel rail/pipe. The Injector Rehab kit essentially occupies the same space.

How rigid is this assembly? Its cantilevered, what are the possibilities that it will deflect enough to cause the injector bodies to become dislodged?

It's solid. I think you would need to strike it very hard to dislodge it after it's tightened down, and even then I think other stuff would be bending/breaking first.

Are these post engine install only? It appears that the fuel rails would conflict with the engine shelf on each side if the engine were dropped.

Possibly. I didn't drop the engine to install, so I don't know. I agree it does look that way from my photos though.

Do the fuel injector branches on the harness really need to be extended? From the photos, there appears to be plenty of harness left if the harness connections are correctly rotated. Be sure to cover any exposed wires 100% in heat shrink. Engine heat will be the death of the exposed wires in short order.

No, but the Jetronic connectors I bought came on pigtails and I just crimped them in as such. I used heat-shrink around all my connections and then bundled the covered connections inside a third piece of heat-shrink, but you're right—I should probably wrap the pigtails with something heat reflective.

Also concerned about the same condition in your existing harness by cyl #3 in the second photo, and hope those wires are not already baked.

A lot of stuff on this car is well baked already, LOL. I'll look into wrapping the exposed parts of the harness with when I address the pigtails.

Cheers!

[Literati914]

Some observations:

.. The supplied AN fittings allow much better placement of the fuel hose as it comes into the rail than the factory setup.

Seriously, my latest pet peeve is how the stock rail is turned away from the in-coming fuel line (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

.

[rjames]

Some observations:

.. The supplied AN fittings allow much better placement of the fuel hose as it comes into the rail than the factory setup.

Seriously, my latest pet peeve is how the stock rail is turned away from the in-coming fuel line (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I just installed SS lines and making turn from the feed line in the engine bay to the fuel rail is a big design flaw..