Hi All –
I am starting to button up my 2.7 after getting everything cleaned up. I noticed on the PP site that Wayne had to remove a significant amount of the cooling/structure ridges on the lower 930 valve covers. I was surprised at how much material was removed. Is this a “every 914 is a bit different” type mod, or is it always something that needs to be done? Can I simply use a dremel? I don’t want to warp anything….
Thanks!
Scott S
It needs to be done to all of em'. A considerable amount of material needs to come off. One way to do it is to leave off the valve cover when installing the engine.....them trim to fit with a bit of extra room. Basically, the ribs need to come off down to the nut bosses on each upper/aft quarter of the cover.
Do them now while they are off, and yes, quite a bit needs to come off.
Here is the pic Wayne sent me. He said he only had to do one side – but I had heard other variations. Thats was why I was wondering about each car being different. I will do this to both sides to make sure.
Thanks JP/Ferg (and Wayne!)
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Both sixes (2.2L & 2.7L) we had in my race car were modified to use bolts and no material was removed.
I would do both sides, IIRC one side I did slightly less, but if I did it over, I would do it just like that pic, much cleaner looking.
I did mine like the pic shows; did both too. Take your time grinding as it cuts fast. Pretty easy mod and unless you want to drop your engine every time you need to remove them, you'd better do it now.
Oh, and zero leaks since I did it.
Or you "could" use early 911SC aluminum lower valve covers. They fit, they clear the body/suspension, they don't warp, and they don't leak. The best part? There's a TON of them around because people do what ever their internet friends tell 'em to. I had a pile of them at Ventura, and they FLEW away to knowledgeable buyers.
The Cap'n
The Capt'n is right. But if you already have the turbo valve covers, you have to trim both sides. Otherwise you won't get them off the engine without dropping it out of the car. No clearance over the suspension console.
My motor is out of the car right now. I can take some picts of mine if you like.
You can use bolts....*IF* you heli-coil the threads.
I like to leave a back bone
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Scott,
If you can get away, you should come down and take a look at my car this weekend. It just so happens to be up on jackstands (shocker)
I've always had 5/16" taken off the entire top of the cover. I know you don't have to do it like that, but to me makes it look less hacked.
I didn't know about the SC lower covers, thanks Cap'n!!
I like the helicoil or insert / bolt idea, anyone else do this JP, or did you come up with it?
Gint, Greg -
I will need to see one of your rides. The two pics above are confusing. Waynes pic clearly shows the valve covers being gound on the fan side of the motor. Sixnotfour, in your pic it appears that they need to be done on the tranny side of the motor (based on where the suspension ear is in the pic).
EDIT: think I will just do the entire thing as per Perry's post to be safe.
Thanks a million everyone. very very appreciated.
tranny end gets the grind; you can access the nuts up front no problem
Yes, Wayne is clearly wrong.....nice pic of the how not to make it work. tho.
A 180 deg rotation (end for end) would have it right.
Scott, sorry for the crap pic - shoved the camera under the car and snapped the passenger side: you can see the access you have for the front 6 nuts. Where the rear suspension comes in close is what you need to grind for. Otherwise you'll be dropping the engine every time you need to get at the valves.
edit: and even though the 2 lower nuts at the back are accessible without grinding, if you don't take those ribs down too you'll never slip a wrench in to reach the uppers
Thanks!!!
Still waiting on those pics of the "new toy" I'm home all weekend, feel free to come by and give me a ride
What new toy? Spill it Scotty.
Coming on the drive tomorrow? Ferg already wussed out.
Scott, I have been a fan of your Martini GT for ever. Glad it's getting a proper motor now. I just milled the standard warped covers flat again and I've not had any leaks since
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