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Posted by: BAO B Jan 6 2012, 11:31 AM

HI,

BRAND NEW TO FORUM. LOOKING FOR TRANSMISSION REBUILT DVD.
APPRECIATE ANY INPUT.

THANKS,
BAO B

Posted by: Tom Jan 6 2012, 11:33 AM

Look for one of Dr. Evil.s posts, the link is in his signature.
EDIT: here is a link.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113587
Tom

Posted by: BAO B Jan 6 2012, 12:52 PM

THANK YOU TOM,
I WILL POST FURTHER QUESTIONS IN THE VERY NEAR FUTURE.

BAO B

Posted by: BAO B Jan 6 2012, 05:48 PM

HERE IS MY PROBLEMS.
THE OIL SEAL OPENING SURFACE IS SCRATCHED WHEN I REMOVED THE OLD SEAL AND DID NOT DO A GOOD JOB ON IT. SEE PIC.

MY QUESTION IS ANYONE HAVE THIS SIMILAR PROBLEMS? EVERY TIME I TRY TO INSTALLED A NEW SEAL IT DISTORED AND NOT SEAL CORRECTLY.

WHAT IS MY BEST OPTION TO GO FORWARD. SOME SAY MAY BE GETTING ANOTHER CASE IS THE ONLY OPTION. IF THIS IS TRUE, WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO GO ABOUT.

THANKS FOR ANY INPUT.

BAO B.


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Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 6 2012, 06:31 PM

Hi Bao,

Your DVD is on its way as of tonight.

For your question, which oil seal?

If the surface that the seal sits on is not smooth, you can smooth it out with some fine sand paper and some time. If there is galling then you can fill it in with JB weld and smooth it with sand paper.

Any pics of the surface of the oil seal area?

Posted by: BAO B Jan 6 2012, 09:24 PM

DR. EVIL
THANKS FOR THE REPLY.
THE 2ND PIC WITH THE SHAFT STICKING OUT IS THE CLEAREST ONE.
YES, INDEED I HAVE TRY SMOOTHING IT OUT WITH SAND PAPER AND JB WELD TO FILL THE LOW SPOT AND SAND TO SMOOTH OUT. YET, WHEN INSTALLING NEW SEAL IT TEAR EVERY SINGLE TIME.

WHAT IS DIFFICULT IS THE MAIN SHAFT IN THE CENTER OF THE HOLE GIVING YOU VERY LIMITED SPACE TO REALLY DO A GOOD JOB TO SMOOTH THE SURFACE.

MAY BE IF I REMOVE THE GEARS AND THUS THE MAIN SHAFT IS OUT, THAT WILL GIVE MORE ROOM FOR ME TO WORK ON THE DAMAGED SURFACE.

IF I REMOVED ALL THE GEARS AND SEND YOU JUST THE CASE, CAN YOU PERFORM THE REPAIR AND INSTALL THE NEW OIL SEAL? JUST A THOUGHT FOR NOW.

THANKS AGAIN
BAO B

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Jan 6 2012, 09:46 PM

CAPS LOCK. TURN IT OFF. IT'S RUDE TO TYPE THIS WAY. PEOPLE THINK YOU ARE YELLING AT THEM.

THANKS.

Posted by: Black22 Jan 7 2012, 12:07 AM

REALLY? I COULDN'T DETECT HIS TONE...ANYONE ELSE?

I think we can let someone with 7 posts to his credit slide on this and just try and help him with his problem.

Maybe you could just LOAN him you're DVD Zach.

Posted by: Richard Casto Jan 7 2012, 01:28 AM

It is easier if the gear stack is out as you don't have to mess with the main shaft being in the way. However once the seal is in, be careful as you reinsert the gear stack as you have to thread the needle and not tear the new seal.

It can be easy to pucker and then tear the sidewall on this seal as you press it into place. De-burring the edge of the case to cut down on any sharpness or burrs can help. You can try something like petroleum jelly as a lubricant as that also can help. Driving it in with something that is not wide enough also can cause it to bulge around the perimeter and that can also make it easier to tear. Try to find something that is almost the exact size of the bore. Sockets work well. Try different sizes to find one that is the right diameter.

Or if you are having leakage due to scratch in the metal and the JB weld fix is not working, you might also try something like a non-hardening sealant such as Curil-T.

Good luck and...



Richard

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 7 2012, 05:25 AM

Much easier with the shaft out. If you have problems still, I would be happy to repair the case and install a seal for you.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 7 2012, 06:22 AM

DR. EVIL,
IF I'M TO SHIPPED THE 901 TRANSMISSION CASE TO YOU I NEED TO REMOVED ALL GEARS, CORRECT? NEVER ATTEMPTED THIS BEFORE.. HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO DO SO?

OK, OTHER THEN REMOVE THE TAIL END COVER HOUSING, ANY THING AFTER THAT I DON'T HAVE A CLUE. FROM MY PREVIOUS POST FROM THE 3RD PIC YOU CAN SEE THAT THE DIFFERENTIAL IS ALREADY REMOVED.

I WILL TRY TO PROCEED WITH YOUR REBUILT CD AS A GUIDE.
WHAT IS YOUR QUOTE TO SMOOTH OUT THE BORE SURFACE FOR THE OIL SEAL TO SIT ON? AND WHAT IS THE EASIEST WAY TO SHIPPED TO YOU?

THANKS AGAIN,
BAO B.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 7 2012, 06:41 AM

Thank you Richard,

I never attempted before to remove a 901 transmission gear stack. One can understand that I'm somewhat nervous about removing and putting it back incorrectly and will mess the trans completely...

All that i really comfortable with is removing the tail end cover housing and is totally clueless from that point on. With all the gears staring at me....wow!
I did however removed the side plate and the differential when the original damaged oil seal was pushed through the opening and goes inside the case.

I don't think i have a choice but just to go forward and hope that you and the many good people from the forum can help out along the way

Thanks again,
Bao B

Posted by: pcar916 Jan 7 2012, 07:49 AM

You'll be fine with all of the knowledge here.

IMPORTANT: Make sure that, if you remove the gear stack before you study Dr. Evil's DVD, that you count the number of gaskets between the intermediate plate (that's the plate the gear-stack is fastened to) and the case. Also measure their thickness. Write that down so you can put it back together with the same number of gaskets (same thickness).

Those gaskets setup how deep the pinion gear (in your picture) fits into the ring gear on the differential. Very important.

When you get the DVD watch it several times and study the written notes too. Now in the video the ring is on the opposite side than your 901 because our 914's are mid engine cars, but the operations are the same. In fact it's easier with your 901 to fool around with the differential because we have to take the gear stack out just to remove it. The pinion gear is in the way.

Good luck!

Posted by: SLITS Jan 7 2012, 01:38 PM

HEY MIKE (DR EVIL) ... PM ME YOUR PAYPAL ADDRESS FOR DONATION.

AND I AM YELLING AS I HAVE CHS (CAN'T HEAR SHIT), SO I HAVE TO YELL TO HEAR MYSELF TYPE.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 7 2012, 01:48 PM

Dude... if Evil can do it...

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 7 2012, 06:48 PM

Bao,

The number of gaskets is not important, only the total thickness. Do not rush. Watch the video ENTIRELY and then proceed. Shipping the case to me empty is cheaper and easier for both of us if I am only fixing the case. If you send me a seal then I can fix it for $20 + shipping. If I need to buy the seal, it should not be much more. I may have one in stock. I am not looking to make money on this, I just want it fixed for you.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 8 2012, 06:11 AM

Dr. Evil,

Look like this is my best option. I will view the video carefully and hopefully it will work out.
What is the best way to shipped the empty case to you? And how should i wrapped it?

Thanks again
Bao B

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 8 2012, 12:43 PM

FedEx Ground is cheapest. Place the case in a plastic bag, tape it up so it doesnt leak into the box, and place it into a box. You could put it into a small rubbermade box and zip-tie the top on if you like. Works good

Posted by: charliew Jan 8 2012, 08:37 PM

I bet a piece of pvc pipe the right diameter and longer than the input shaft would help install the seal.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 9 2012, 08:24 AM

Thanks for your advice, i've try that method and the problem is not getting the oil in.. but once it's in you can actually see tear on multiple places on the O.D. of the seal due to the fact that the bore is not totally smooth (damaged i made when removing original seal) and causes the oil seal to tear as it entered the bore (opening).

Thanks again,
Bao B.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 9 2012, 09:17 AM

BAO, the new seals do bunch up on the outside diameter when installed. This is not a problem as they still seal. If you can feel roughness in the seal bore, then it needs addressed. If not, then you are good to install with PVC pipe, lube outside of seal with vasoline or oil, and if it bunches a little on the outside, that is not a problem.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 9 2012, 09:47 AM

Dr Evil,

I'm leaving it up for you to decide once i removed the gears and send the case to you.

Without any experience I'm not in position to take any chances. With your experience and knowledge I can sleep much better.

Any way i will post a damaged seal that i installed so we can view it.

I will study the video once i get it and proceed from there.

Thanks again,
Bao B

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 9 2012, 09:57 AM

Always glad to help.

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 9 2012, 12:46 PM

Ouch! Damn Zack, you steal one damned chicken and what happens?


It's true. He can't even hear himself fart!

Posted by: BAO B Jan 10 2012, 01:03 PM

Hi,
While waiting for the video i have a question.

If i want to go ahead and remove the tail cone, aside from being aware that the reverse gear & little bearings and maybe the first gear can fall out what else do i need to be aware of.

Do i need to set the gears at certain position to remove the tail cone? if so, how do i set the gear at that certain position?

Thanks,
Bao B.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 10 2012, 02:08 PM

Bao,

You can just pull the cone. No worries, there. Catch/find all the parts afterwards and you are fine.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 11 2012, 08:44 AM

Thanks Dr. Evil,

I will removed the cone and keep all the parts in the right place.
After the cone is removed my next step is to remove the intermediate plate and from what i understand is that you must set the gears accordingly in order to lift the plate out.

According to your rebuilt page, you must set the fourth/fifth gear accordingly, is this also apply to my 901? (same configuration?)

I'm looking forward to removed the gears and send the empty to you.

Thanks, Bao B.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 11 2012, 11:34 AM

This is particularly important with your transmission as it has a different shifter. Just follow the guide in my rebuild page and you will be fine.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 11 2012, 12:28 PM

great! i'll do that and keep you in touch.

thanks,
Bao b.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 13 2012, 08:49 AM

Hello Dr. Evil

I have a question on removing the gear stack from the case.

I attached 4 pics to make it easier to understand.

Pic 1 shows after the tail end cone removed exposing the first gears and 4th/5th gear rod protruding.

Pic 2 shows reversed unit/pin and fork removed.

Pic 3 shows 4th/5th gear rod pushed downward.

Pic 4 shows a slight opening.. about 1/16" after i tapped the edges of the intermediate plate.

My question is so far i'm doing everything correctly? If everything so far is good, should i continue tapping on the edges of the int. plate?, even though it's very tight and required heavy effort just to opened 1/16".

Thanks,
Bao B


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Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 13 2012, 09:22 AM

You have the wrong rod selected. You have pushed in the 2-3 rod to 3rd gear. The 4-5 rod is the one on the left of the 4th pic. You will need to reach in and put the trans back into neutral, then push the correct rod in. Then it should slide out pretty easily

Another tip is to pull the shifter rod out of its holder in the case so that it is just flopping around. That will allow for more movement when you pull the stack (about 30# for the assembly).

Posted by: BAO B Jan 13 2012, 09:44 AM

Thanks for the quick reply,

I feel terrible selecting the wrong rod.. I guess i just have to learn from it.

Now, how do I "reach in and put the trans back in neutral"??
I think the opening of the fork (removed) is where we start to set it back to neutral.

And yes, the shifter rod is out of its holder and are flopping around.

Thanks so much for helping out.

Bao B

Posted by: MrHyde Jan 13 2012, 03:35 PM

Got my video yesterday... Hilarious ! and Informative... I've finished the first disk and will go to the second tonight... So far it doesn't look incredibly complicated.
Thanks !
Mike

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 13 2012, 05:02 PM

Bao, if you look at the pics in my build thread you will see how neutral looks through the side hole. Basically, put the shaft you moved back to where it was. Then, move the other shaft.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 14 2012, 07:53 AM

Dr. Evil,
I managed to select the correct rod shown on pic. 2.

Pic. 1 shows how it look through the folk opening.

My problem now is that it doesn't seem to move a hair after i pounded around the edge of the plate. It seem like it doesn't move at all even when hitted pretty hard... I didn't want to proceed any further in fear of damaging the int. plate.
I think is smart to check with you first before creating a huge mess over something that may be very simple.

Thanks in advance,
Bao B.



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Posted by: Cairo94507 Jan 14 2012, 08:15 AM

Dr. Evil is the man when it comes to our transaxles.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 14 2012, 08:24 AM

Bao,

you have it all set to come out. It looks as if your shifter shaft is caught. Make sure it is loose. You have 1st selected as well which keeps the gears from turning at all (you have both 5 and 1 selected). This is not a problem, but it may be easier if you pull the 1st slider back to neutral and then try to remove the stack. There is nothing to hold it in the case other than the shifter rod getting hung up. You just need to pull up and wiggle a little

If you think this is hard, wait until you have to put it back in

....watch the DVD

Posted by: BAO B Jan 14 2012, 09:24 AM

Dr. Evil,
I will pull the 1gear back to neutral and will make sure that the shifter rod is loose and not getting caught.
From this point i'm confident as you stated that "nothing is holding up in the case" and will proceed on forcing it out.
Thanks
Bao B.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 14 2012, 02:51 PM

FREE AT LAST!!!! YES!!!!

I was able to removed the gear stack. I did some close up on the gears to view. Maybe you can spot something on the gears pic. and welcome to comment. Now, i need to pack the case and send it to you by usps to installed the oil seal for me, takes about 7 working days, since i'm not in a rush also save some money for shipping this way.

I will include along with the case 2 oil seals and 2 gaskets cut out (one from the int. plate and one from main case), if i may ask you to measure the 2 gasket, so that i can buy the correct thickness gasket to fit between int. plate and main case.
Your quote before for $20 to installed the seal and maybe another $5 for measuring the gaskets, is that ok. and ofcourse shipping cost.


Dr. Evil, please provide me an address to send case to you.

Thanks so very much for helping out.
Bao b.


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Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 14 2012, 03:13 PM

Good job, Bao.

Watch the DVD and let me know what YOU think needs replaced Watching the DVD will help guide you to what pics to take and post up for inspection, rather than me going all over it again.

I will PM the address. No charge to measure the seal

Posted by: Gint Jan 14 2012, 03:23 PM

Dude those are killer pictures!

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 26 2012, 09:37 PM

Bao,

I got the trans case, cleaned off the old gaskets, checked the sealing surface of the front gasket, cleaned out the inside, and installed your new seal. I think what you were seeing was the seal bunching on the outside. This looks bad, but is common with the new style seals and is not an issue. The old style had a step on the outside that hid this process from view. I will contact you for return shipping payment and such.

Posted by: BAO B Jan 27 2012, 08:28 AM

Thanks so much,
When shipping the case back to me, please include gaskets ( fit between int. plate and main case).
I will look for your email for payment.

Bao

Posted by: BAO B Feb 12 2012, 05:19 PM

Dr. Evil,
Got the case back, everything is good.
Now that i'm ready to put it all back together i have a question to ask.
First, the 2 gaskets that goes in between the int. plate and main case, do i need to put sealant in between?
Second, the single gasket that goes in between the int. plate and the tail cone, do i need sealant there?
Also, watching the trans. dvd 2 the section where you dropped the gears into the main case, you have the 4/5 gear selected..and once the gears are in you used a screw driver to set the 4/5 gear back to neutral...specifically where is the place that the screw driver lean against in order for you to push the selector rod for 4/5 gears back to neutral?
Thanks very much in advance.
Bao

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 12 2012, 05:27 PM

Hey Bao,

as in the DVD, there is no sealant used anywhere. Just put them on dry and you are good.

For the gear selection, I cant explain better or show you better than the DVD. The simple explanation is to look inside the hole on the side of the tranz to see the rod, then put your screwdriver in there and move the 4-5 rod back into neutral. You wont mess it up.

Posted by: BAO B Feb 18 2012, 07:10 PM

Dr. Evil,
I study the dvd carefully and was able to successfully installed the gears and put the 4/5 gears back to neutral.. YES!!! Thank you.
The question now is the selector rod in the correct position, as in pic. 2 the rod is in the case with all gears in neutral.
Pic. 3 shows the close up of the "dong" positioned.
Pic 4 shows the fork cover in position with the two fingers pointing upward.
the selector rod will be in between the two fingers on the fork once the fork is installed.
You noticed in pic 4 there is a skinny o ring seal only and no paper gasket seal.. is this correct? do i need a paper gasket seal also?
so, from pic 1 to 4, i'm correct so far as selector rod positioning?

Also, one question on the reverse gear bearing.
pic. 5 shows one side of the bearing with the inner circle area lifted.
pic 6 shows one side of the bearing with the inner circled area NOT LIFTED.
which is the correct installed position? pic. 5 or pic. 6?

Again as always, thanks for all your input and knowledge.
Bao


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Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 18 2012, 10:18 PM

Well, if the dong is in the channel in the shift rods, you are good. However, the O-ring you have on the fork doesnt go on to this transmission. You need to use the paper gasket instead.

The rest looks good to go The tailshifter/nose shifter911 are the hardest to reassemble. A real PITA to get it all lined up. You should fee very proud to have come this far

Posted by: BAO B Feb 19 2012, 04:26 PM

Dr. Evil,
That's great. Can you help as far as the reverse gear bearing is concern?
I'm not sure which side facing upward base on pic. 5 and pic 6.

Thanks again,
Bao

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 20 2012, 08:44 AM

Bao, the bearing can go in either way. No top or bottom to worry about. Just make sure you put it UNDER the gear

Posted by: BAO B Feb 20 2012, 11:05 AM

Great. thanks so much.
I'll keep you and others posted upon the completion of the trans.
Bao

Posted by: BAO B Feb 22 2012, 11:44 AM

Hello Dr. Evil
I check all over the U.S. for the paper gasket for the folk cover and none have them in-house.
Is in germany and won't be available for 3 weeks.

Do you have any available for me to buy? Or do you know any one have them?

Let me know.
thanks, Bao

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 22 2012, 05:04 PM

I will check. This is for an early 911 so is far less common, but I may have one.

Posted by: BAO B Feb 22 2012, 06:49 PM

Thanks,
Let me know and i'll pay whatever for your trouble.
Bao

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Feb 22 2012, 07:36 PM

Looking at some of the first photos of first gear dog teeth they look worn don't they???

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 22 2012, 07:49 PM

Good eyes, Jeff. The dog teeth for 1st are shot. The slider may not be. I see decent teeth, although far away, in post 39 pic 1.

Bao, you should consider replacing those dog teeth on first gear. I can help

Posted by: BAO B Feb 23 2012, 08:12 AM

Dr. Evil
I got what you're saying now after reading this, so forget about my earlier email to you.
So, how do i send you the gears (dog teeth) to be replaced. Where do i start??
Thanks, Bao

Posted by: BAO B Feb 24 2012, 06:59 PM

Dr. Evil,

I'm going through this and try to describe what we have to do.

Pics taking from your video, pic 4 to pic 9 described how to remove the first gear.
pic 4: removed the bolt, pic 5 removed the gear and hand fork in place,
pic 6 shows gear and fork together, pic 7 shows separation of fork and gear,
pic 8 and 9 shows the damage gear.

Is this what i need to do?
if so, pic 1 shows the bolt from my trans, and should be removed, first thing ..correct?
pic 2 shows the actual gear that is the same as the one from pic 8 and 9, correct?
pic 3 shows another gear that should be left in place? i'm not sure.

Well, let me know how i do so far.

Thanks, Bao





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Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 24 2012, 11:21 PM

Bao, you are close. Nice posting pics from the DVD, that helps a lot.

The part posted in the last pic is the slider. It would be nice to see pics of yours close up, but it was looking promising. The part I need is held in by the large 30mm bolt. The gear and teeth are what that slider pictured go to.

One word of caution to help you not get too deep. Before you remove the slider to get to the 1st gear, mark the end of the shaft and the fork so you can reassemble them correctly and will not need to readjust using a jig.

Posted by: BAO B Feb 25 2012, 07:17 AM

Dr. Evil,
So, the part you need is the picture i included in this post where i pointed to the bottom gear, which is the first gear correct? From this pic. can you tell if the teeth are 50% ..70% or garbage at this stage?

If this is correct, base on your video I would need a jig [rectangle plate with 2 circle holes in it] to lock in place and to removed the 80 ft lb torqued 30 mm bolt. This required the stack NOT in the trans. case..
which is not my situation.

But in my case since i already dropped the gears stack in the trans. case and i hate to take it out again, would it be much easier to use the modified tool "first gear slider with a long rod welded to it"? as shown from your video. In that case, the question is is this modified tool available to be rented out?? Let me know?

Let assume i have the correct tools to removed the 30 mm bolt. In the case with the modified tool [1st gear slider with rod..] I think your dvd shows that all gears must be in NEUTRAL..correct??? before sliding the tool in place and using the 30mm breaker bar to remove the bolt. Let me know if i'm correct with all gears in NEUTRAL??

That's all for now.

Thanks again,
Bao

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 25 2012, 12:54 PM

Yup, the part in the pic. It is about 30% at best.

I have a tool I can ship you for holding the shaft while the stack is in the case. It is a smaller version of the one in my DVD so ships easier.

Also, you are in luck as I have found ONE nose cone seal for your early 911 in my parts bin. Not a common part

Posted by: BAO B Feb 25 2012, 03:50 PM

Great!

So, you are sending the tool to me along with the better 1st gear.. correct?
Once the job is done, i will shipped the tool back to you. Let me know the cost for these so I can paypal you. Also, any luck on the fork cover paper gasket?

Once I received the tool and the first gear from you, this is my plan,
1. follow your video procedure to removed the bolt holding the fork/gear slider.
2. using your tool to hold the shaft, removed the 30 mm bolt, 80 ft lb torque.
3. removed the hub.. base on your video, you used a chisel and just pried around the hub til it comes out.
3. the first gear is ready to be removed.
Now, I just need to do the reverse to installed the 1st gear from you.

That's it for now. To be continue.

Thanks, Bao

Posted by: Dr Tard Feb 25 2012, 11:42 PM

Bao, I think we need to reassess this situation to see what you want, can get, and are willing to do.

If 1st is in such shape, I would bet 2nd looks like crap as well. This is common so if you were going to fix it you should just get it over with and not have to worry about it for another 100kmi.

What I am offering with the 1st gear is that I can send you the tool to remove it, you send it to me and I will replace the teeth with good ones and send it back, you install it and send the tool back. It would do no good for me to send you another 1st gear as you need to change them in a set and this means pulling the gear off of the other shaft as well.

Also, how are your synchro bands on 1 and 2? Usually need replacing as well. Hard for me to tell on my computer monitor.

Just food for thought. I will help as I can.

Posted by: BAO B Feb 26 2012, 04:39 PM

Dr. Evil,
Thanks for the advice. I agree that need to reassess the situation carefully, with the knowledge unfortunately that i have low budget to work under. Regardless, I need to do what i'm capable of doing and that is as much as i can do.

I provide closed up photos i took today, sorry for so many photos but i want to be as clear as possible. Hopefully these photos can be help in your assessment on the condition of 2nd gear as well as others such as synchro bands on 1 and 2 and on.

Please observe the pics as best as you can and hopefully you give me somewhat a strong assessment on what i need to replace, and the cost to carry out and complete the task.

I apologize for back and forth too much, but with a low budget to work with this is how i try to get by.

Let me know.

Thanks so much,
Bao


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Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 26 2012, 04:52 PM

Bao, dont sweat the number of pics and the back and forth. This is what this site is here for. You are not bugging me

The good news is that from what I can see the bands and teeth for the remainder of the gears are in good shape. Remarkable, actually.

The band on 1st gear should be replaced as it is grooved and shined. But, that looks to be it.

So, I think we should progress with me shipping you the tool to remove first, you ship me first and I change the teeth and the band, ship it back, you install, and send my tool back. Sound good? I will ship the gasket with the tool.

Posted by: BAO B Feb 27 2012, 05:47 AM

Dr. Evil
That's great news, i will look forward to the tool and further instruction. If you need me know if you need me to pay in advance.
Thanks, Bao

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 27 2012, 02:10 PM

Tool and gasket are in the mail.

Posted by: BAO B Feb 27 2012, 02:13 PM

Thank you Dr. Evil,
We'll be in touch.

Bao

Posted by: BAO B Mar 2 2012, 05:50 PM

Dr. Evil,
I was able to removed the first gear and posted 2 pics so we can view it.
Please confirm it's correct.
I will send this gear to you and wait for a better gear in return.

I'll wait for your confirmation before sending this out.
Let me know.

Thanks,
Bao


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Posted by: Dr Evil Mar 2 2012, 06:34 PM

Send it. I will be sending the same one back, just with new bits.

Posted by: BAO B Mar 2 2012, 08:14 PM

I'll send it tommorow.
Thanks
Bao

Posted by: BAO B Mar 9 2012, 08:06 AM

Dr. Evil,
Just checking to see if you received the package yet?
Thanks,
Bao

Posted by: Dr Evil Mar 9 2012, 08:14 AM

Yup, I got it. I will email you tonight with details and can ship tomorrow.

Posted by: BAO B Mar 9 2012, 09:18 AM

Thanks very much,
Bao

Posted by: BAO B Mar 20 2012, 05:36 PM

Dr. Evil,

I send back the tool to you this morning. Should get there by thursday or friday.
Just a question on the speedometer drive gear from pic.
The speed drive gear has a play of about at least 1/8" in all direction, is this normal?
I inspect it and everything look fine accept for the play.
Also, the gear oil shown, is this fine to use for the 901 transmission?

Thanks again,
Bao


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Posted by: Dr Evil Mar 20 2012, 06:50 PM

The drive gear has lots of play in it, not a concern.

That oil is not the correct type, it says limited slip and does not say GL5 on it anywhere. You need no fancy oils, I use the cheap stuff from walmart that is of the correct type.

Posted by: BAO B Mar 21 2012, 04:39 PM

Dr. Evil,
My bad. The back of the oil bottle stated "recommended for all hypoid differential conventional and limited slip" also, it is for manual transmission where API GL5 or MT1 is specified. See pic.
So, since i alreadly have some bottles laying around, can I use it?

Thanks, Bao


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Posted by: Dr Evil Mar 21 2012, 05:14 PM

Its your transmission. When it says specifically on the front "for limited slip differentials" this means that there are friction modifiers in it. This may not play well with your synchros. Might just kill them quicker. Might not. All I do know is what is recommended and what I have used.

Posted by: BAO B Mar 21 2012, 07:08 PM

Dr. Evil,
I would definitely take your advice over others, so to finalize i need 80w90 "NON LIMITED SLIP" AND GL5 labeled on the bottle, that should do it?
Let me know. Sorry for the back and forth.
Thanks so much again
bao

Posted by: Dr Evil Mar 21 2012, 07:21 PM

Yup, regular old GL5 80w90.