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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ CW types, purists and others a bit
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 07:25 PM
AAAAHHHHHH! Some lunatic broke into my garage and cut off my fender. Just kidding. Actually I'm the lunatic. Prepping for fiber glass. Easier than I thought with a sabre saw.
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Posted by: SirAndy Jan 23 2013, 07:28 PM
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 07:29 PM
I know. I know.
Posted by: scotty b Jan 23 2013, 07:32 PM
I know. I know.
you should paint it yellow when you're done
Posted by: jsconst Jan 23 2013, 07:35 PM
So how long did you stand there looking at it before you started cutting? 
Looking good.
Jeff
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 07:35 PM
So how long did you stand there looking at it before you started cutting? Looking good.
Jeff
Two weeks.
Posted by: Kirmizi Jan 23 2013, 07:41 PM
Better access for the five-lug conversion 
Mike
Posted by: tadink Jan 23 2013, 07:42 PM
AAAAHHHHHH! Some lunatic broke into my garage and cut off my fender. Just kidding. Actually I'm the lunatic. Prepping for fiber glass. Easier than I thought with a sabre saw.
Uh, so you spend so much time under the car you have created your own CHAIR?!?!
Posted by: timothy_nd28 Jan 23 2013, 07:44 PM
The garage door looks heavy duty
Posted by: '73-914kid Jan 23 2013, 08:29 PM
Are you bonding it on, or Dzus fasteners?
Posted by: 76-914 Jan 23 2013, 08:44 PM
get stainless or anodized so you don't need to paint them. fly over to aircraft spruce (they'll pick you up at the field)and check out the camlock vs dzus side by side. and while while your there spend another 5 or 6 hundred. 
I did see dzus at the local welders supply but I think they were steel.
Posted by: tod914 Jan 23 2013, 08:47 PM
That white fender looks so much better cut off 
Plan on keeping the car black?
Posted by: TargaToy Jan 23 2013, 08:48 PM
Better access for the five-lug conversion
Mike
He's already got 5 lug hubs in the pics.
Posted by: Woody Jan 23 2013, 09:28 PM
![popcorn[1].gif](style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Posted by: MoveQik Jan 23 2013, 09:42 PM
I know. I know.
you should paint it yellow when you're done
It would sweet with a Sheridan kit on it!
Posted by: Gint Jan 23 2013, 09:47 PM
Hhhmmmmm.... 
Posted by: VegasRacer Jan 23 2013, 10:45 PM
That white fender . . . . . . . the car black?
I think he is making a 914 Police Car.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 11:30 PM
I know. I know.
you should paint it yellow when you're done
For me, yellow = speeding tickets. I've been to traffic school 4 times.
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Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 11:32 PM
Better access for the five-lug conversion
Mike
And better access for the oil tank I'll need to install for the six that will go in. Soon. Someday. Who knows?
Posted by: KELTY360 Jan 23 2013, 11:36 PM
For me, yellow = speeding tickets. I've been to traffic school 4 times.
Did you graduate? or is there still time to be captain of the football team?
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 11:38 PM
The garage door looks heavy duty
Actually it is glass panes. The garage is actually a covered car port that I enclosed. The ceiling is only 7 feet high. The top of the garage door opening is only 6 feet. My Son is 6'3" so, he has to remember to duck when he goes in. Sometimes he remembers.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 11:38 PM
Are you bonding it on, or Dzus fasteners?
Dzus.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 11:40 PM
get stainless or anodized so you don't need to paint them. fly over to aircraft spruce (they'll pick you up at the field)and check out the camlock vs dzus side by side. and while while your there spend another 5 or 6 hundred.
I did see dzus at the local welders supply but I think they were steel.Dzus - steel - painted - riveted
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 23 2013, 11:41 PM
That white fender looks so much better cut off
Plan on keeping the car black?Yep
Posted by: euro911 Jan 24 2013, 04:29 AM
Wow 
That first cut had to hurt. Looks good so far
Posted by: veltror Jan 24 2013, 06:25 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2UHvgiq79E
The first cut won't hurt at all
The second only makes you wonder.
The third will have you on your knees
Posted by: Woody Jan 24 2013, 07:48 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2UHvgiq79E
The first cut won't hurt at all
The second only makes you wonder.
The third will have you on your knees
Posted by: veltror Jan 25 2013, 03:27 AM
Should have said it was a reply to the comment on how long it took to make the first cut...
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 28 2013, 08:21 PM
It has taken a little massaging to get the fenders to fit and I expect I'll do a little more. For what it's worth, I think the Sheriden kit on the Yellow Zonker was made a little better. These are the Dzus fasteners I'll be using.
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Posted by: 76-914 Jan 29 2013, 09:25 AM
It has taken a little massaging to get the fenders to fit and I expect I'll do a little more. For what it's worth, I think the Sheriden kit on the Yellow Zonker was made a little better. These are the Dzus fasteners I'll be using.
Guess who still has a ton a aircraft goodies and tools. Check with me before you start buying rivets, clecoes, etc. I've got the micro balloons you'll need to fill those holes, too.
Posted by: bulitt Jan 29 2013, 09:33 AM
Is this car going to end up yellow?
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 29 2013, 10:48 AM
It has taken a little massaging to get the fenders to fit and I expect I'll do a little more. For what it's worth, I think the Sheriden kit on the Yellow Zonker was made a little better. These are the Dzus fasteners I'll be using.
Guess who still has a ton a aircraft goodies and tools. Check with me before you start buying rivets, clecoes, etc. I've got the micro balloons you'll need to fill those holes, too.
I know rivets and clecoes but micro balloons??
I have about a dozen clecoes and clecoe plyers which is enough to do one fender at a time which was the plan anyway. Thanks for the offer Kent, I really appreciate it. I'll let you know if I need anything. Cheers, Elliot
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 29 2013, 10:49 AM
Is this car going to end up yellow?
No. Yellow is way too fast for me.
Posted by: 6freak Jan 29 2013, 04:08 PM
that was to nice a car to cut up..... 
and then fiberglass! come on Mr Cannon! is it April 1
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 29 2013, 08:13 PM
that was to nice a car to cut up.....
and then fiberglass! come on Mr Cannon! is it April 1I warned you not to look.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 29 2013, 08:14 PM
One down. About 31 more to go.
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Posted by: stateofidleness Jan 29 2013, 08:26 PM
One down. About 31 more to go.
At the risk of looking like a complete idiot (which I'll gladfully assume), what is that and what's its purpose?
Posted by: Dave_Darling Jan 29 2013, 09:16 PM
That's a Dzus button. A quick-release fastener, so that the fender can be pulled off by turning a few fasteners one quarter turn.
BTW, micro-balloons are to provide lightweight filler. They're mostly air, so they don't weigh much. They take up space nicely, and when you mix them into the appropriate "goop" they can be used as body filler that builds up nicely and sands well but is light.
--DD
Posted by: JRust Jan 29 2013, 09:16 PM
One down. About 31 more to go.
At the risk of looking like a complete idiot (which I'll gladfully assume), what is that and what's its purpose?
Basically it is a quick release
Posted by: rgalla9146 Jan 29 2013, 09:28 PM
One down. About 31 more to go.
At the risk of looking like a complete idiot (which I'll gladfully assume), what is that and what's its purpose?
How much space will there be between he panels created by the protruding rivets ?
Won't the rivets rub on the opposite rivets or the metal fender constantly ?
An additional picture or two might help.
I want to use some Dzus fasteners myself but don't understand how the panels can be tight ( contacting ) to each other.
Thank you
Posted by: stateofidleness Jan 29 2013, 09:55 PM
Ahh very cool. First time I've seen them (altogether), but great idea for an application of use. Would love to see the finished result from both sides.
Posted by: euro911 Jan 30 2013, 12:18 AM
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 30 2013, 12:48 AM
One down. About 31 more to go.
At the risk of looking like a complete idiot (which I'll gladfully assume), what is that and what's its purpose?
How much space will there be between he panels created by the protruding rivets ?
Won't the rivets rub on the opposite rivets or the metal fender constantly ?
An additional picture or two might help.
I want to use some Dzus fasteners myself but don't understand how the panels can be tight ( contacting ) to each other.
Thank you
There will be some space between the fiberglass and the metal but the rivets are aluminum and very easy to work with. You can grind them down (which I will be doing) to minimize the spacing. The panels won't be totally contacting each other. Some people like to "bond" the fiberglass fenders on but then they are ON. REALLY on. There are advantages to both techniques. The Screaming Yellow Zonker (see below) used Dzus fasteners extensively and I really liked that. I got wide wheels that needed flairs so this is what I'm doing to occomodate them. I'll take more pictures as I go long.
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Posted by: 76-914 Jan 30 2013, 09:24 AM
One down. About 31 more to go.
Pop rivets! Are you F'n
me. 
Give me 50 push ups and 10 laps. I've got the "real" anodized aluminum AN470 countersunk rivets, countersink tool, polished squeezers and just about any other A/C related parts that you need to make that job look PRO. Fly down to French Valley Airport and I'll load you up.
Posted by: 6freak Jan 30 2013, 09:55 AM
that was to nice a car to cut up.....
and then fiberglass! come on Mr Cannon! is it April 1I warned you not to look.
Indeed you did! but I had to,Im sure when its finished it will be very nice,you gonna stay with black?..good luck
Posted by: Rand Feb 2 2013, 02:04 AM
Lol, I wonder how many times you'll have to answer that in this same thread.
Nice work Elliot. Looking forward to seeing it one day.
Posted by: 914junkie Feb 5 2013, 02:18 AM
Have you got around to cutting off the front yet?
I remember standing there looking at my car thinking, whoa, what have I done? 
But then you get the body all mounted and everything is ok. I took an alternative route and mounted my Sheridan body with threaded inserts in the metal and small stainless bolts with nylon washers through the glass. It works great and I've removed the body several times for maint. and repairs.
I like what you"re doing with yours, looks like it's coming along nicely. Looking forward to seeing it all together.
Posted by: tadink Feb 5 2013, 03:17 PM
It has taken a little massaging to get the fenders to fit and I expect I'll do a little more. For what it's worth, I think the Sheriden kit on the Yellow Zonker was made a little better. These are the Dzus fasteners I'll be using.
HI - looking great! I'm on the same path but a bit behind you - what size dzus fasteners and springs are you using? rivets?
(I've done some cutting, it does take one a deep breath to get started into the panel of a perfectly good car! sigh)
thanks
td
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 5 2013, 09:52 PM
It has taken a little massaging to get the fenders to fit and I expect I'll do a little more. For what it's worth, I think the Sheriden kit on the Yellow Zonker was made a little better. These are the Dzus fasteners I'll be using.
HI - looking great! I'm on the same path but a bit behind you - what size dzus fasteners and springs are you using? rivets?
(I've done some cutting, it does take one a deep breath to get started into the panel of a perfectly good car! sigh)
thanks
td
I used these from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-71500/overview/
Posted by: effutuo101 Feb 5 2013, 10:11 PM
Nice work! Looking good
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 5 2013, 10:50 PM
All the "Dzus" fasteners are installed. All four fenders are fitted up and after a little more sanding and cleaning up will go to the paint shop. Soon I hope.
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Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 5 2013, 10:53 PM
I had to fabricate some "struts" to make the fender a bit more secure. The front one I used part of the existing support and the rear one I used some 1/2 in square tubing. I also made a dzus tool with a 1/4 inch drive 13mm deep socket.
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Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 5 2013, 11:00 PM
I had to do a lot of "massaging" to make the QRS fenders fit up OK. I could have trimmed more from the bottom of the fender but then it wouldn't blend too well with the rocker panel. I haven't installed either of the rocker panels. More pics when I do.
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Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 5 2013, 11:04 PM
I cut a lot off the back of the rear fenders because it made it a bit... Umm... Easier to fit. A LOT easier. I can't wait to get them painted because it will look mucho better when they are.
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Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Feb 6 2013, 12:44 AM
Awesome work buddy! 
Posted by: euro911 Feb 6 2013, 01:47 AM
Looking good, Elliot
This will make installing your '6' oil tank a lot easier too ...
Posted by: tadink Feb 6 2013, 11:20 AM
I cut a lot off the back of the rear fenders because it made it a bit... Umm... Easier to fit. A LOT easier.
I can't wait to get them painted because it will look mucho better when they are. HA! I did exactly the same to my QRS rears! And the fronts - much easier install to cut the bits off that don't quite fit!
question - how are you going to finish the edges on the f'glass fenders?
looking great btw! Keep up the good work, you are an inspiration for me!
td
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 7 2013, 08:45 PM
I called Jeff at QRS Fiberglass today to see about a rear valance to match my GT flares. I learned that the GT's didn't have a rear valance. At least this one doesn't. Something about aerodynamic drag. I guess I won't have on either.
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Posted by: kg6dxn Feb 7 2013, 10:07 PM
I think you should leave the fenders white and put a star on the door...
Posted by: euro911 Feb 7 2013, 10:29 PM
Yeah, N A R P D
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 15 2013, 12:45 PM
I just got the estimate to paint four fenders and two hoods for my car. $2500. I guess that's fair but more than I want to pay, so it looks like I might be shooting them myself. Something I've never done but am looking forward to giving it a try. I have a compressor so that's at least a start. I guess I'll log on to the Eastwood web sit today. Wish me luck.
Posted by: Black22 Feb 15 2013, 04:43 PM
Good Luck!!! 
I'll be spraying my next car too...although I had my WHOLE car painted for $2,500 last time.
Posted by: strawman Feb 15 2013, 07:11 PM
I just got the estimate to paint four fenders and two hoods for my car. $2500. I guess that's fair but more than I want to pay, so it looks like I might be shooting them myself. Something I've never done but am looking forward to giving it a try. I have a compressor so that's at least a start. I guess I'll log on to the Eastwood web sit today. Wish me luck.
Elly-utt --
I've got a nice Devilbiss gun, a couple difference nozzle sizes (1.8 and 2.0), and a lot of other painting stuff you're welcome to borrow, as long as I can watch and learn. I'll be working on my car this weekend if you wanna stop by...
Geoff
Posted by: bigkensteele Feb 15 2013, 08:06 PM
I just got the estimate to paint four fenders and two hoods for my car. $2500. I guess that's fair but more than I want to pay, so it looks like I might be shooting them myself. Something I've never done but am looking forward to giving it a try. I have a compressor so that's at least a start. I guess I'll log on to the Eastwood web sit today. Wish me luck.
$2500 to paint four fenders and two hoods? That's insane. Have you thought about getting another estimate? Hell, if you do the prep work, I would think that Maaco could do it for $500 to $1000.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 15 2013, 08:13 PM
I just got the estimate to paint four fenders and two hoods for my car. $2500. I guess that's fair but more than I want to pay, so it looks like I might be shooting them myself. Something I've never done but am looking forward to giving it a try. I have a compressor so that's at least a start. I guess I'll log on to the Eastwood web sit today. Wish me luck.
$2500 to paint four fenders and two hoods? That's insane. Have you thought about getting another estimate? Hell, if you do the prep work, I would think that Maaco could do it for $500 to $1000.I went to two other body shops and they wouldn't even consider it. They all want to do insurance claims. The last one was a small family owned shop and they still had to consult a computer program to find an estimate. When I told them it was just four fenders and two hoods, they acted kinda confused. "Ummm, what kinda car izzat again"?
Posted by: Andyrew Feb 15 2013, 08:22 PM
My buddy gets mayco paint jobs all the time for his flipper cars. For his better stuff he comes to me.
2500 is redic for a no body work respray.. unless you asked them to take them down to the metal/glass and reprime and all that, then ya it makes sense.
If you were local I'd do it for you at my friend rate.
Posted by: bigkensteele Feb 15 2013, 08:27 PM
I just got the estimate to paint four fenders and two hoods for my car. $2500. I guess that's fair but more than I want to pay, so it looks like I might be shooting them myself. Something I've never done but am looking forward to giving it a try. I have a compressor so that's at least a start. I guess I'll log on to the Eastwood web sit today. Wish me luck.
$2500 to paint four fenders and two hoods? That's insane. Have you thought about getting another estimate? Hell, if you do the prep work, I would think that Maaco could do it for $500 to $1000.I went to two other body shops and they wouldn't even consider it. They all want to do insurance claims. The last one was a small family owned shop and they still had to consult a computer program to find an estimate. When I told them it was just four fenders and two hoods, they acted kinda confused. "Ummm, what kinda car izzat again"?
Wow. That's unfortunate. At least you are going to learn to paint!
I was talking with an owner of a body shop out here (where we have all 4 seasons), and he was quite candid about how he makes his living from insurance work. However, it can be slow in the summer, so that is when he takes on projects like this. When it is really slow, he has his guys work on his old cars and will occasionally buy wrecks to rebuild just to keep them busy and a little coin coming in.
Posted by: 76-914 Feb 15 2013, 08:45 PM
Your picking a Hell of a color to learn on Bro. 
Prep it well. Black shows everything. Be sure you know how to clean a paint gun, too. Especially if you borrow one.
Posted by: euro911 Feb 15 2013, 09:26 PM
2500 is redic for a no body work respray.. unless you asked them to take them down to the metal/glass and reprime and all that, then ya it makes sense.
If you were local I'd do it for you at my friend rate.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 15 2013, 11:02 PM
Your picking a Hell of a color to learn on Bro.
Prep it well. Black shows everything. Be sure you know how to clean a paint gun, too. Especially if you borrow one. I've heard that black and red are the most difficult colors to shoot. One good tip the body shop owner told me was to wash and clean the fiberglass before you start to sand to clean off what he called a "releasing agent" whatever the hell that is. Then sand, clean, primer, sand, clean, paint, clean, paint, etc. Hell! How hard can it be?
I can turn wrenches, I can weld, I can rewire. I might as well learn how to paint. Right? Right?
Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Feb 16 2013, 01:09 AM
I was quoted $1600.00 just to paint my hood, engine lid and trunk. I about They gave me the same excuse that they normally do insurance work. I even said to the guy "you really don't want to do it, do you?" He looked at me and smiled.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 16 2013, 01:50 AM
I just spent a few minutes and $ on the Eastwood site. I got spray guns, a filter drier, regulator for my compressor. I even got one of them maskfilter things so I don't croak from breathing paint fumes. Now I got to figure out where to get some primer and paint. I'm guessing I can't get it at Lowes. At this point, I am open to ANY suggestions and advise.
Cheers, Elliot (Earl Sheib) Cannon
Posted by: euro911 Feb 16 2013, 02:43 AM
Hi, I'm Elliot Scheib ... and I'll paint any car, any color, for only ...
Posted by: Dasnowman Feb 16 2013, 03:00 AM
Have you ever thought of talking to a trade school body shop? They usaully do it for cost of materials and clean up supplies..
Posted by: rick 918-S Feb 16 2013, 08:13 AM
I wrote a flaming post but deleted it. All I can say is shame on you. You made a nice living flying planes. Don't knock a guy for having to make a buck to survive. Specially in the land of regulations and taxes. You get what you pay for if your lucky. Let's see how your paint work comes out. Really not trying to be an asshole but really?
Posted by: MoveQik Feb 16 2013, 08:47 AM
I wrote a flaming post but deleted it. All I can say is shame on you. You made a nice living flying planes. Don't knock a guy for having to make a buck to survive. Specially in the land of regulations and taxes.
You get what you pay for if your lucky. Let's see how your paint work comes out. Really not trying to be an asshole but really?Hey um, Rick....if you read his post he never complained, in fact he suggested that it was a fair price - "I just got the estimate to paint four fenders and two hoods for my car. $2500. I guess that's fair but more than I want to pay"
Posted by: charliew Feb 16 2013, 08:54 AM
I respect a guy that wants to learn how to paint. You didn't say what kind of paint. It seems you are going to try and match the finish on the doors. How much orange peel do they have? There will be several mistakes while you are learning. Sometimes the paint on the floor cost more than whats on the car. I don't know how much filler your car needs but good product supplies will cost you probably 500.00. And probably you will end up painting the doors just to get the overall finish the same. A guy needs to know how to paint though that way he can convince the painter he won't settle for short cuts. My friend who is in the paint business told me lately he has been using eastwood primers. I haven't tried them yet. If cost was not a concern I would probably use all ppg's best that will double the cost of the paint for me. Good luck lots of guys have done good driver car driveway paint jobs but they have sanded probably 30% off removing nibs, sags and going back and redoing a panel that a small low or high place appears after it is buffed out. Prep is the key and a good enviorment helps a lot. At least black won't show small bugs or specks like lighter colors do.
Good luck
Posted by: 76-914 Feb 16 2013, 09:23 AM
Shoot a 2 stage paint. You can remedy just about any mistake with two stage paint. I don't think it holds up as well as single stage but.........Buy the good stuff, not cheap crap. DuPont and PPG both make some good paints. That being said, you may want to go out of state (AZ or NV) for your paint. I would imagine our CA formula paints probably include non-toxic Crayons in the formula by now. 
. Another thing; our OLD eyes need lots and lots of good lighting. You'll need that reflection as a guide unless you've shot a hundred cars before. You should probably ignore everything I've said because every time I've bought paint in the last 10 yr's I've found that what I knew before is now "old hat". Good luck buddy. If'ing I's can be of any assistance let me know.
Posted by: charliew Feb 16 2013, 09:29 AM
I agree on the paint ppg has obsoleted a lot of my paint on the shelf. Also try to get the mfg's application guide on the paint from whoever sells it to you. Like what reducer for what temp, the time between coats and so on. I like single stage with a clear top coat, I think it holds up much better but is a lot more work. I know black is black but I still bet you end up painting the doors.
Posted by: euro911 Feb 16 2013, 12:02 PM
Dianne and I took an auto body class at the Harbor Occupational Center in San Pedro (20 years ago)
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 16 2013, 12:23 PM
I wrote a flaming post but deleted it. All I can say is shame on you. You made a nice living flying planes. Don't knock a guy for having to make a buck to survive. Specially in the land of regulations and taxes.
You get what you pay for if your lucky. Let's see how your paint work comes out. Really not trying to be an asshole but really?I wasn't knocking anyone. It was just more than I wanted to pay. It was a family owned buisness and they have a lot to deal with. I know what problems they are faced with because he and I spoke about it. "A good living flying planes"?? My first two years in the aviation bidness I made $8000 a year. So, shame on you for lousy reading comprehension and over reacting.
PS Leaving today for a week at the Orbit Inn.
Posted by: euro911 Feb 16 2013, 12:34 PM
I wrote a flaming post but deleted it. All I can say is shame on you. You made a nice living flying planes. Don't knock a guy for having to make a buck to survive. Specially in the land of regulations and taxes.
You get what you pay for if your lucky. Let's see how your paint work comes out. Really not trying to be an asshole but really?I wasn't knocking anyone. It was just more than I wanted to pay. It was a family owned buisness and they have a lot to deal with. I know what problems they are faced with because he and I spoke about it. "A good living flying planes"?? My first two years in the aviation bidness I made $8000 a year. So, shame on you for lousy reading comprehension and over reacting.
PS Leaving today for a week at the Orbit Inn.
$8000./year was a lot for flying a [then brand new] DC3
Posted by: rick 918-S Feb 16 2013, 09:28 PM
I wrote a flaming post but deleted it. All I can say is shame on you. You made a nice living flying planes. Don't knock a guy for having to make a buck to survive. Specially in the land of regulations and taxes.
You get what you pay for if your lucky. Let's see how your paint work comes out. Really not trying to be an asshole but really?I wasn't knocking anyone. It was just more than I wanted to pay. It was a family owned buisness and they have a lot to deal with. I know what problems they are faced with because he and I spoke about it. "A good living flying planes"?? My first two years in the aviation bidness I made $8000 a year. So, shame on you for lousy reading comprehension and over reacting.
PS Leaving today for a week at the Orbit Inn.
Ya, what about the next 30 sumthin.... No matter. To me it read like this. Body shops charge too much. I can get the same quality in my garage first time out. Anyone can paint a car. No experience needed. Like I checked the price to ship a package UPS. It was more than I wanted to pay so I guess I'm going to just get an airplane and fly it there myself. I can get a flying manual online.
So if I over reacted my excuse is it was early in the morning. Have an Orbitini for us!
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Mar 19 2013, 08:35 PM
Project update. The suspension, brakes and lugs bolts are all done. Venting clearance adjusted. Just waiting for the brake lines. My wheels are at the powder coater and should be ready tomorrow. I installed a filter/dryer to my compressor and just about ready to try my hand at painting. A local body shop is going to help me set up my paint guns and will also help with where to buy paint, what kind and what sand paper to use and when. My wheels are front- 17X7 rear- 17X9 with GT flairs all around and I'm still not sure what tire size I want yet.
Cheers, Elliot
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Posted by: bigkensteele Mar 19 2013, 11:00 PM
Looking forward to seeing this complete! Nice work
Posted by: 76-914 Mar 22 2013, 05:23 PM
Alright Ellyut, where the Hell are you on this project and why do I have dig it out of the archives. You didn't get locked up again did you? Concerned in Socal.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Mar 22 2013, 05:30 PM
Alright Ellyut, where the Hell are you on this project and why do I have dig it out of the archives. You didn't get locked up again did you? Concerned in Socal.
I'm out on work release. (I swear she looked at least 22). I just got home from the body shop. My friend there checked out my paint guns and gave me lots of advice. From there I went to the paint stor. I got primer, paint and hardener and reducer. I also got sand paper, mixing cups and all kinds of other crap to paint the fiberglass fenders and trunk lids. Waiting on brake lines from what's-is-name. Then I can put tires on the wheels, and tow the car down to SLO for alighnment. Lots to do yet but it's getting there.
Cheers, Elliot
Posted by: bigkensteele Mar 22 2013, 08:53 PM
You should update your avitar to the beach chair. You don't even own those wheels anymore.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Mar 30 2013, 06:06 PM
Just a quick update. I got all the fenders and both hoods done with three coats of primer. I started wet sanding (pita) today. I got two fenders and the front hood done. Try to get the others sanded tomorrow. Then the final two coats of black. Mixing the primer was interesting. Four parts paint, one part hardener, and one part reducer. Who knew it would be so complicated? Doesn't look like it'll be done for Rt. 66 so I'll be bringing a Non-NARP. These were taken just before I started sanding.
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Posted by: 76-914 Mar 30 2013, 07:08 PM
Alright. Nice. Is that in a hanger?
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Mar 30 2013, 10:26 PM
Alright. Nice. Is that in a hanger?
Yep. @ KPRB.
Posted by: mrbubblehead May 6 2013, 11:31 PM
hi elliot, im following your lead and bought my panels from jeff. he is a real nice guy. hes about 45 minutes from me so i went to his shop to pick them up. i was surprised how light they are. im going wednesday to pick up the rear trunk lid and then the front later. anyways, could you share in a little more detail on how your mounting your fenders? more pictures too? did you flange the areas where the 2 panels meet?
great job by the way. it would be great if you could tutorialize how you did it. im sure im not the only one who wants to know.
tia
doug
Posted by: effutuo101 May 7 2013, 08:05 AM
Looking good!
Posted by: mrbubblehead May 20 2013, 01:40 AM
Posted by: Elliot Cannon May 22 2013, 06:17 PM
I finally got some good paint on these fenders. After we finally determined the paint I bought was bad, the paint store gave me more paint for free (they should have paid for the labor as well). I think I might use a one inch spacer to move the rear wheels out a bit.
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Posted by: Rand May 22 2013, 06:37 PM
Sweet! Nice work.
Interesting new spoiler on your rear decklid. 
Posted by: bigkensteele May 22 2013, 07:52 PM
Elliot, that looks fantastic!!!
Posted by: kg6dxn May 22 2013, 07:58 PM
looks great!
Need more pics!!!
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 6 2013, 05:47 PM
I got some 1 1/2 inch spacers at the Parts Heaven swap meet and I think they will work out OK. I just wish I could use these spacers without using lug nuts on the spacers. Now I've got to order 10 more lug nuts. These wheels and spacers are "lug centric", soooo, I've ordered 10 more lug nuts.
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Posted by: MoveQik Jun 6 2013, 06:32 PM
Nice Ell-yut!
Posted by: proto31 Jun 6 2013, 06:52 PM
Nice Job Elliot! I'm extremely impressed. When's this contraption making it's first trip down to the OC?
Dan
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 6 2013, 08:00 PM
So, I'm congratulating myself on finally getting the five lug conversion and flared fiberglass fenders done and then... OK, what now genius? My front spoiler and air dam don't quite match up. As the Gov. of Texas says, "oops". The spoiler is fiberglass and I'm wondering if it can be heated with a heat gun and "bent" to match the fender flare? I don't want to but I could also cut it off just before the dzus fastener.
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Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 6 2013, 08:03 PM
Nice Job Elliot! I'm extremely impressed. When's this contraption making it's first trip down to the OC?
Dan
Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September.
(If there is one).
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 6 2013, 08:05 PM
Sweet! Nice work.Interesting new spoiler on your rear decklid.
Spare tire. "Continental Kit".
Posted by: 76-914 Jun 6 2013, 08:26 PM
Nice job Elyut. Now for my negative side. Have you thought about going in with a few more DZus fasteners in the rear. That is probably a high pressure area. More especially at decent hi-way speeds. Doesn't look like any air will get under it in the front part and it looks stout on the top but I see a load on that sole one in the back. You really shouldn't listen to me unless I'm buying the beer.
Posted by: MoveQik Jun 6 2013, 09:21 PM
Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September.
(If there is one). Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location!
Posted by: rick 918-S Jun 6 2013, 09:33 PM
Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September.
(If there is one). Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location!
Oh there will be one..
El, no you can't heat fibreglas. Use some tag board, cut a pattern, use masking tape to attach it to your spoiler, rub on a little automotive wax over the masking tape. mix up some fibreglas and lay it up. After it dries you can peal it off the tape, pull the pattern off and grind and glas the new piece you made to match up to your flare. Use a little body filler over the top to blend it in and bomb can the spoiler black again.
Purchase the flared rockers from AA. You may have to reshape them but it's way better for a novice to try to reshape fibreglas than try to hammer out the factory rockers.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 6 2013, 10:09 PM
Nice job Elyut. Now for my negative side. Have you thought about going in with a few more DZus fasteners in the rear. That is probably a high pressure area. More especially at decent hi-way speeds. Doesn't look like any air will get under it in the front part and it looks stout on the top but I see a load on that sole one in the back. You really shouldn't listen to me unless I'm buying the beer.
The key words here being "decent highway speeds".
I have a few fasteners left and they would be easy to install. Maybe I'll take a video with the ole Go Pro and see what it looks like and install if needed. Thanks for the tip. You owe me a beer for having to take your advice. 
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 6 2013, 10:12 PM
Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September.
(If there is one). Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location!
Oh there will be one..
El, no you can't heat fibreglas. Use some tag board, cut a pattern, use masking tape to attach it to your spoiler, rub on a little automotive wax over the masking tape. mix up some fibreglas and lay it up. After it dries you can peal it off the tape, pull the pattern off and grind and glas the new piece you made to match up to your flare. Use a little body filler over the top to blend it in and bomb can the spoiler black again.
Purchase the flared rockers from AA. You may have to reshape them but it's way better for a novice to try to reshape fibreglas than try to hammer out the factory rockers.
Thanks for the tip Rick. I tried painting, maybe I should try my hand at fiberglass as well.
I bought fiberglass rockers from QRS and they seem to fit pretty good. I'll post more pics as I go along.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 6 2013, 10:14 PM
Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September.
(If there is one). Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location!
Durango? Fuck that. I'm not driving to Montana!!
Posted by: McMark Jun 6 2013, 11:23 PM
Do the fiberglass. Go get some clay and mold the flared section until it looks right, then lay up the fiberglass right on top. Cut the old section off after it hardens and remove the clay, then bodywork the new section and paint.
You're doing great!
Posted by: ruby914 Jun 7 2013, 01:46 AM
Wow, Elliot, the car looks great.
Sexy 
Posted by: rick 918-S Jun 7 2013, 07:09 AM
Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September.
(If there is one). Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location!
Durango? Fuck that. I'm not driving to Montana!!
Durango Co.
and you better be there.
Posted by: 76-914 Jun 7 2013, 08:11 AM
Mark is right about clay but you can never get all of it out when your finished. 
Another way is to get some green Styrofoam block like the florist use. Michael's has it. Attach the foam to the area you will be working then sand to the desired shape w/ 30 grit. Much easier to remove after your glass work is done. Don't be afraid of FG. All mistakes can be sanded down, re-covered and done over. PS, the reason I suggest the green stuff is it will work with styrene or epoxy type resins and I don't know which you are using.
Posted by: McMark Jun 7 2013, 11:24 AM
Spray some PVA over your clay first.
Posted by: ruby914 Jun 7 2013, 12:24 PM
Spray some PVA over your clay first.
All ways work.Clay, Crystal clear paint then PVA.
Clay, Tape, wax.
Remove new part, clean up, remove unwanted part and scab back on the new. This is a good way for a seamless clean job.
If you want to have a core or don't mind grinding out the old part
Urethane foam (green) for polyester or epoxy resin. You can put Bondo over it.
EPS foam for Epoxy. (Do not Bondo over it).
Cardboard and tape...
1000 ways to skin a cat.
Posted by: bulitt Jun 7 2013, 12:47 PM
"I got some 1 1/2 inch spacers at the Parts Heaven swap meet and I think they will work out OK. I just wish I could use these spacers without using lug nuts on the spacers. Now I've got to order 10 more lug nuts. These wheels and spacers are "lug centric", soooo, I've ordered 10 more lug nuts."
You are saying both spacers are too deep for 100 studs? Wow
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 7 2013, 03:36 PM
"I got some 1 1/2 inch spacers at the Parts Heaven swap meet and I think they will work out OK. I just wish I could use these spacers without using lug nuts on the spacers. Now I've got to order 10 more lug nuts. These wheels and spacers are "lug centric", soooo, I've ordered 10 more lug nuts."
You are saying both spacers are too deep for 100 studs? Wow
If I could, I would press out the lug bolts on the spacers and just use the long lugs on my rotors. If the spacer and wheel were "hub centric" maybe I could do that? Because both are "lug centric" I'm not sure I can. I am also told that with a spacer that wide, I should use the lugs on the spacers.
Posted by: bulitt Jun 7 2013, 06:56 PM
Thats what I did, pressed out the studs on the spacer then just slid it over the 100mm studs. Mine are hubcentric.
Then there's this guy-
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 8 2013, 06:20 PM
Still trying to decide what to do with this spacer. It kind of looks like a truck wheel. When I removed the wheel today, I noticed that the spacer to the wheel is "hub centric", which means to me, the spacer almost becomes part of the wheel. What I'm getting at is even though the spacer is 1 1/2" wide, I'm thinking of pressing out the studs on the spacer and just using the studs on the rotor.
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Posted by: tomeric914 Jun 8 2013, 08:50 PM
Drill 5 more holes in the rims to have the one and only 10 lug conversion.
Posted by: Maltese Falcon Jun 8 2013, 09:00 PM
Nice work Elliot...Now I see what Roger Sheridan was explaining to me when we picked up
our widebody kit from him. Since he was trying to get to work that morning, some of his info was
blurred. Your pics clarify a lot of his info....you should do a diy sheet for Roger!
I plan to leave about a 2" edge of sheet metal all around the cutout ,then final trim into the dzus fastener area. Already cutout most of the rear trunk floor, for the massive inverted gt2 trans.
I guess you get used to the sadness of cutting into the 914...knowing that it will be one trick hot rod in the end
Marty
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 8 2013, 09:54 PM
Drill 5 more holes in the rims to have the one and only 10 lug conversion.
As it turns out, the studs in the spacer are pressed in to at least one inch of steel and just aren't coming out. At least not with the tools I have. Looks like I'll be leaving them the way they are till I get some better spacers.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 8 2013, 10:02 PM
Nice work Elliot...Now I see what Roger Sheridan was explaining to me when we picked up
our widebody kit from him. Since he was trying to get to work that morning, some of his info was
blurred. Your pics clarify a lot of his info....you should do a diy sheet for Roger!
I plan to leave about a 2" edge of sheet metal all around the cutout ,then final trim into the dzus fastener area. Already cutout most of the rear trunk floor, for the massive inverted gt2 trans.
I guess you get used to the sadness of cutting into the 914...knowing that it will be one trick hot rod in the end
Marty
I had a Sheridan body on the Yellow Zonker. Here are some pics of that installation. I have pictures of the front with the body on and off. I'll post them if it will help you.
Cheers, Elliot
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Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 11 2013, 08:30 PM
Almost done. Had alignment done and new master cylinder as well. Installed the panel covering the master cylinder and now the brake lights come on when the key is on. Back up on the lift tomorrow. Only thing after that is get it on the road and bed in the new brakes.
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Posted by: kg6dxn Jun 11 2013, 08:36 PM
Looks really nice!!! Great job Elliot!!!
Posted by: MoveQik Jun 11 2013, 08:40 PM
Sweet!
Posted by: sixnotfour Jun 11 2013, 08:54 PM
wow Black is hard to get a good pic of yours are Great. nice work..
what's next a 3.2 ??
Posted by: Maltese Falcon Jun 11 2013, 09:08 PM
Thank you Elliot for posting the yellow car pics.
Not too shabby for a garage paint job !
Hey, you forgot the front fender wart-lights, just kidding.
Marty
Posted by: Socalandy Jun 11 2013, 09:18 PM
I have a fiberglass GT rear valance I'm not going to use Elliot
Posted by: Dave_Darling Jun 11 2013, 09:46 PM
Sounds like the lever on the switch on the pedal cluster is on the wrong side of the washer on the brake pushrod. You might not have to put it on the lift to fix this...
--DD
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 11 2013, 09:55 PM
Thank you Elliot for posting the yellow car pics.
Not too shabby for a garage paint job !
Hey, you forgot the front fender wart-lights, just kidding.
Marty
The yellow car was done by someone else. I tried painting the black one myself but I got some bad paint from the paint store. It was so bad even the body shop couldn't make it work. They replaced the paint for me and I had the body shop go ahead and shoot it for me. All I had painted was the four fenders and both hoods which all are fiberglass. The fitment of the fiberglass parts wasn't the best and I had to "massage" it quite a bit to get it to fit. Sheridan is of better quality. Also more expensive.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 11 2013, 10:06 PM
I have a fiberglass GT rear valance I'm not going to use Elliot
Thanks Andy. I asked QRS if they had one and I was told they didn't make them because the GT cars didn't have them. If you still have, it next time I'm down your way, I'll see if it will work. I also bought a $20 911 banana muffler at Parts Heaven and will try to modify it to work on my car. I have Euro Headers and don't like the muffler AT ALL.
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Posted by: Maltese Falcon Jun 12 2013, 10:18 AM
Elliot, I have a gt style rear valance that we produce here at MSDS.
There is one with a small bit of massaging needed, but still a good useable part.
You can have it ,but pick up here in Glendale when you are near L.A.
Marty
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 12 2013, 11:09 AM
Elliot, I have a gt style rear valance that we produce here at MSDS.
There is one with a small bit of massaging needed, but still a good useable part.
You can have it ,but pick up here in Glendale when you are near L.A.
Marty
Thanks Marty, if I get a chance I'll drop by. Now get off the computer and keep working on that car.
Posted by: 76-914 Jun 12 2013, 12:58 PM
Thank you Elliot for posting the yellow car pics.
Not too shabby for a garage paint job !
Hey, you forgot the front fender wart-lights, just kidding.
Marty
The yellow car was done by someone else. I tried painting the black one myself but I got some bad paint from the paint store. It was so bad even the body shop couldn't make it work. They replaced the paint for me and I had the body shop go ahead and shoot it for me. All I had painted was the four fenders and both hoods which all are fiberglass. The fitment of the fiberglass parts wasn't the best and I had to "massage" it quite a bit to get it to fit. Sheridan is of better quality. Also more expensive.
And here I was thinking you we're a f@))&"ng natural. I was like " I ain't ever seen anyone shoot black that we'll the first time out. Regardless, it looks damn nice
lettuce eater.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 12 2013, 03:30 PM
Sounds like the lever on the switch on the pedal cluster is on the wrong side of the washer on the brake pushrod. You might not have to put it on the lift to fix this...
--DD
You were very close Dave. The washer was in the right place but the lever had to be bent just a bit to make contact. Works properly now. Thanks.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 12 2013, 03:35 PM
Thank you Elliot for posting the yellow car pics.
Not too shabby for a garage paint job !
Hey, you forgot the front fender wart-lights, just kidding.
Marty
The yellow car was done by someone else. I tried painting the black one myself but I got some bad paint from the paint store. It was so bad even the body shop couldn't make it work. They replaced the paint for me and I had the body shop go ahead and shoot it for me. All I had painted was the four fenders and both hoods which all are fiberglass. The fitment of the fiberglass parts wasn't the best and I had to "massage" it quite a bit to get it to fit. Sheridan is of better quality. Also more expensive.
And here I was thinking you we're a f@))&"ng natural. I was like " I ain't ever seen anyone shoot black that we'll the first time out. Regardless, it looks damn nice
lettuce eater.I am a f@))&"ng natural. Just not at painting.
I could take credit for the paint job but I was cursed with a conscience. 
Posted by: Millerwelds Jun 12 2013, 03:35 PM
Something tells me that those wheels would look awesome powder coated white.
Posted by: Eric_Shea Jun 16 2013, 12:01 PM
There's gonna be some badass German iron at the next RRC between this, thew new and improved Wills mobile and Andy's ride (it will be done right Andy)
Posted by: StratPlayer Jun 16 2013, 01:03 PM
Beautiful Elliot,,,, job well done....
Posted by: euro911 Jun 18 2013, 05:45 PM
NICE ...
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