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Posted by: Lawrence914-6 May 22 2003, 09:09 PM

I've only done one valve adjustment on my /6, and that was under the watchful eye of Wes Hildreth.

The valves are a bit noisy when cold. I've checked the archives and have an old copy of the PP tech article for the 911.

Tricks or helpful tips, anyone?

-Rusty

Posted by: Lawrence Sep 2 2003, 09:44 AM

bump.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Sep 2 2003, 10:08 AM

there doesn't seem to be any magick, other than making sure you've drained the oil and got a new set of silicone-bead gaskets. i don't have a lot of stick time on this procedure myself, personally, as in hands-on. some people swear you -have- to pull the heat exchangers "to do the job properly" -- and some are just as adamant you don't. i guess it's a personal issue on 'properly' - i donno. put some penetrating oil on the studs & nuts ahead of time just in case, have some spare studs, and a new set of exhaust port gaskets standing by is what i'd do...

i -do- know that having the appropriate feeler gauge - the hook-shaped one that has a place for fingers to grab and a teeny blade where the dot would be on a question mark ( ? ) is the preferred tool for the job.

Posted by: J P Stein Sep 2 2003, 10:09 AM

Most of my "tricks" concern finding TDC of each cylinder. One can mark the front pully with each cyl that comes to TDC at each 120deg mark. AIR, 1 and 4 are at the Z1 mark, but 360 deg apart. Twice around and you've covered them all.

To turn the motor, block one wheel so it won't turn, put it in gear, and turn the other wheel. One can go fwd and backwards to get it right on. I don't even take out the plugs....unless I'm gonna replace em".

I always have a .005 feeler gauge as a "no go".

I've got it down to a 4-5 hour job.

Posted by: mskala Sep 2 2003, 10:19 AM

It was/is a pain in the butt before I started removing the heat
exchangers to do it. Remember to have 6 exhaust gaskets on
hand. I don't think they should be reused.

Why would you mark the pulley, which can't be seen, when the
flywheel already has 120 degree marks on it?

Posted by: J P Stein Sep 2 2003, 10:33 AM

Ever recourceful 6er conversion guys DO have access to the pully (visual & physical) but DON'T have marks on their flywheel.

If you're fortunate enuff to have a
"real"(slow ) 6, I would advise putting numbers by the 120 deg marks. The CW judges will ding ya tho

Posted by: Lawrence Sep 2 2003, 12:50 PM

Thank you for the tips, everyone.

I have headers on the car, so I'll have a bit more room than the last time I had to work on the valves. It was so long ago, that I figured I'd ask for tips.

JP, you mentioned marking the flywheel. 1 and 4 should be at Z1. I remember that. Will watching distributor position make any difference at all?

I have the appropriate feeler gauge, with extra blades. IIRC, Wes Hildreth apparently buys blade material in long strips, and dispenses with even using the holder. I haven't found a source for those strips yet.

-Rusty

P.S. I've got a storage area rented, and will move the /6 there tonight. Tomorrow I'll start screwing with the valves, after I lay down plastic and drain all the oil out. Any other ideas between now and then will be welcome!

Posted by: Lawrence Sep 2 2003, 01:52 PM

I thought about something... if this is a stupid question, slap me - but answer it first.

If I dont have 120 degree marks on my flywheel, how am I to know when I reach 120 degrees, when I'm turning a tire?

-Rusty

Posted by: J P Stein Sep 2 2003, 02:13 PM

The marks are on the pully.....mirrors are gud. It does involve mooving around a bit. If you leave the plugs in, you can feel it come up on the compression stroke. I bit of practice and it's a pice of pie

Why can I still remember the Chebbie firing order(18436572) but not the 9eleben?

We have the strip shims at work.....various thicknesses, but only the .004 jobbies ever follow me home....go figure.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Sep 2 2003, 02:16 PM

crankshaft pulley; bring a mirror, be prepared to jump and down a lot. or you can use the Larson / Thoruson method, which (oversimplified) says when one side's valve is open, the same valve on the other side is closed. since most of the cam (duration degrees-wise) is base circle, ultra precision in determining TDC is not really required...

and be happy you don't have an AC pulley on your crankshaft pulley ...

Posted by: ArtechnikA Sep 2 2003, 02:17 PM

1-6-2-4-3-5

Posted by: Dave_Darling Sep 2 2003, 04:42 PM

The Larson/Thorusen method depends on the 914-4 motor having the cylinders on the opposite sides of the motor using the same cam lobes. You can probably get away with it on a DOHC motor like the 911 one, but I wouldn't want to be the first to do so...

BTW, I talked to some 914-6 owners (and 75+ 911 owners) locally, and they all agreed that there was only one trick to it: "Pay someone else to do it!" (No, I'm not really kidding....)

--DD

Posted by: Lawrence Sep 2 2003, 04:52 PM

I wish I could pay someone to do it... but the valves are starting to sound a bit loud, and I don't trust anyone here in central Kansas.

Yep. 16-24-35. Lousy measurements, but all were great ages when I was 19.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Sep 2 2003, 04:55 PM

Larson's said it works on 911 engines and i haven't worked through the firing order on paper to verify that it does (or doesn't) work -- but i tend to believe him. i -think- it depends only on the firing order intrinsic to a boxer engine.

Posted by: scotty Sep 2 2003, 05:06 PM

Awwww, c'mon...it's fun and relaxing (except for that up/down part)! And when you get it right, *sweet*