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Posted by: lapuwali Jan 3 2005, 01:53 PM

I know Fiid was doing one of these, anyone else in progress or complete?

After doing the contortionist trick of adjusting valves with the exhausts in place a couple of times, I'm in the middle of pulling the HEs off my 1.7 to replace a pair of exhaust studs, and reminding myself how much easier the job would be if the exhausts were off, but thanks to the stock heater system how big a hassle that is. I hate exhaust studs pulling out (No. 3 cylinder, as usual). And all this trouble for only 80hp. 140hp or so from a water-cooled engine with hydraulic lifters (or 20K mile valve adjustment intervals) is starting to sound pretty good right now. If it were any easier to run water lines, I'd be all over this already.

Posted by: Jenny Jan 3 2005, 02:00 PM

I think Fiid and Susan are expecting... so that may be why he's not here as much as before.

Jen

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 3 2005, 02:05 PM

QUOTE (Jenny @ Jan 3 2005, 12:00 PM)

I think Fiid and Susan are expecting... so that may be why he's not here as much as before. Jen

Pah! Letting a baby get in the way of a car! Priorities all screwed up...

That certainly does explain his absence.

Posted by: dlo914 Jan 3 2005, 02:25 PM

sorry to hi-jack, but Jenny there has some mysterious looking eyes.... spooky

Posted by: Jenny Jan 3 2005, 03:32 PM

Spooky... that's a first.

Jen

Posted by: jwalters Jan 3 2005, 05:45 PM

QUOTE (Jenny @ Jan 3 2005, 01:32 PM)

Spooky... that's a first. Jen

Spooky?? awww shucks---hubba-hubba!!!!

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 4 2005, 04:52 PM

Posted by: butch Jan 4 2005, 08:09 PM

so who has done the subaru swap thing? anyone here?

Posted by: airsix Jan 4 2005, 10:59 PM

QUOTE (butch @ Jan 4 2005, 06:09 PM)

so who has done the subaru swap thing? anyone here?

Everybody who's started one has dissapeared after a while. THAT's what's spooky.

-Ben M.

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 5 2005, 12:14 AM

QUOTE (airsix @ Jan 4 2005, 08:59 PM)

QUOTE (butch @ Jan 4 2005, 06:09 PM) so who has done the subaru swap thing?  anyone here? Everybody who's started one has dissapeared after a while. THAT's what's spooky. -Ben M.

i am still here and my car is untouched in 3 weeks and before that 18 months.

story suby 2.5, trying to stay stock ing and spark, kep plate and fly wheel, will be modified stock exhaust, radator in front of motor ( yes it should work plenty of room )

were i am at now motor bolted to tranny sitting on jack in engine bay, harness 75 % complete, will need rad, need welder to finish engine bar body mounts, then to make engine bar. going unconventinal with engine bar behind motor so it will clear shifter and exhaust, and not be canterlevered from stock mount. if i had 500 to throw at her i could get it going in 80 hours or less

Posted by: Brando Jan 5 2005, 12:36 AM

Scott, are you using the turbo'd wrx engine?

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 5 2005, 01:02 AM

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Jan 4 2005, 10:14 PM)

QUOTE (airsix @ Jan 4 2005, 08:59 PM) QUOTE (butch @ Jan 4 2005, 06:09 PM) so who has done the subaru swap thing?  anyone here? Everybody who's started one has dissapeared after a while. THAT's what's spooky. -Ben M. i am still here and my car is untouched in 3 weeks and before that 18 months. story suby 2.5, trying to stay stock ing and spark, kep plate and fly wheel, will be modified stock exhaust, radator in front of motor ( yes it should work plenty of room ) were i am at now motor bolted to tranny sitting on jack in engine bay, harness 75 % complete, will need rad, need welder to finish engine bar body mounts, then to make engine bar. going unconventinal with engine bar behind motor so it will clear shifter and exhaust, and not be canterlevered from stock mount. if i had 500 to throw at her i could get it going in 80 hours or less

The engine mount is one of the more interesting bits for me. The Soob mounts appear to be near the bellhousing stock, or a bit forward of that. Are you running the arms angled forward to the stock 914 mounting points? Sort of a vee arrangement?

I was impressed with one of Fiid's pictures showing how much room there was between the crank pully and the firewall. I wonder how well it will cool there. Perhaps some clever ducting pulling air from below?

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 5 2005, 10:10 AM

nope no turbo dont need that much power, or dont want to abuse my tranny that much

and for motor mounts i have built what look like smaller version of the stock body mount that i will be welding to the frame ( long ) right behind the suspension ear and it will drop down then with a couple of bends will basiclt form a loop that the motor hangs on

here is an idea of what it will look like, and luckly its simple all bends are 30 degrees. i made each staight section a different color sense i could not draw a straight lines. the bottom section that is level then it bends up at 30 degrees to be parallel with the motor mounts, then another 30 degree bend to get over to the body, then another bend to be parallel with the body

hope this is not too confusing

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 5 2005, 10:11 AM

opps


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Posted by: scott thacher Jan 5 2005, 10:21 AM

here is what the body mount looks like un welded, its made out of 1/8 inch steel folded then it will be welded

now i dont like the idea of hanging a mount about 14 inches backwards from the stock location that is a lot of leverage for a 250 lb motor to bend stuff with, like the stock body mount


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Posted by: fiid Jan 6 2005, 07:29 PM

I'm alive - Susan popped the baby out Dec 30th - but haven't doen any work on the car in ages. Last thing I did was fab radiator mounts, and running water lines. I am starting to think about getting a little more work done on it though......

Baby pics are here if you are interested:
http://www.fiid.net/modules/gallery/BendyIsBorn

Posted by: d914 Jan 6 2005, 07:39 PM

how about running a redawg "like" sub frame from the original motor mounts to the tranny mounts and then have motor mounts to the suby welded to the subframe.

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 6 2005, 08:09 PM

Anyone have any photos of the front of the Soob engine? Are there no mounting bosses there that could be adapted for use by a front-mount bar?

Eric Tischer's old site shows his mount, which appears to connect to a set of four bosses roughly one at the base of each cylinder, two on each side of the pan. These are connected via triangular plates forward to a front bar. I have no idea if these bosses are present on other engines. The one on the site is a 1.8 with a turbo.

Posted by: Jenny Jan 6 2005, 08:09 PM

QUOTE (fiid @ Jan 6 2005, 05:29 PM)

Baby pics are here if you are interested: http://www.fiid.net/modules/gallery/BendyIsBorn

Sorry to hijack--

Fiid, Bendy is beautiful. A big congratulations to you and Susan!!!

Jen

Posted by: fiid Jan 6 2005, 08:36 PM

Thanks Jenny - thanks for the card too, btw.

There are places to bolt on the bottom of the engine. Tischer's setup is a tailshifter, so he has his rubber mounts at the end of the motor bar.

If you are doing something with a sideshifter and you want to keep the stock subary mounts you need to work out some form of framing because the mounts are too far back - they get leverage on the stock mount points and would do the same on the bulkhead.

I welded a bar between the shock towers and used that to hold the weight of the engine while going out to the stock mount bar points for lateral strength.

Fiid.

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 6 2005, 10:39 PM

okay this post is going to be several posts long due to multible pics

here is a down view from the side of the motor, with the body mount drawn in blue and red and the stock mount location on the motor in green


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Posted by: scott thacher Jan 6 2005, 11:01 PM

here is a paper drawing of the engine bar i plan on making with a couple of different views, and it labeled with mounts and stuff. as well as a drawing of where i plan on welding the body mount from a side view

i hope you get the jist

pic deleted by me

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 6 2005, 11:06 PM

QUOTE (d914 @ Jan 6 2005, 05:39 PM)

how about running a redawg "like" sub frame from the original motor mounts to the tranny mounts and then have motor mounts to the suby welded to the subframe.

i just reread this post and yes doing a sub frame would be great but it might get in the way of the shift bar or exhaust pipe, the way i am doing it everything clears

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 6 2005, 11:56 PM

Nice drawings Scott. I will be flying into Harrisburg on the 30th as my friend lives next to the school. I wish that I could see your Suby conversion. We'll have to hook up on the night of the 1st.

Posted by: neo914-6 Jan 7 2005, 02:34 AM

Is the WRX engine way different? Have you see this http://www.tcdesignfab.com/914WRXmount.htm from TCDesign...

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 7 2005, 09:11 AM

yes i have seen that, emailed it to audioculture because i know about the project ( if its still going to exsist )

my probem with that mount in the amount of torque it puts on the engine and body mounts. i am not sure if the physics work out like this but it is about a 14 inch cantalever and if the part that bolts to the body is 2 inch diameter. that works out to about 250 lbs with a 14 to 1 lever against the 1 inch forward side of the mount or 3500 lbs of force trying to bend things and stretch the bolt that holds the bar to the mount on the body. like i said it might not work like this, but even at half or a quater of the weight a nice big pot hole or speed bump can generate a large force a aginst the mounts

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Jan 7 2005, 09:52 AM

I'm with you Scott on the TC mount. Sure looks like it would cause the rubber in the stock subaru motor mounts to deform and bend at the porsche mount. If the front bar also attached to the car firewall some way it would be better. ?????

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 7 2005, 11:59 AM

The torque will only be there if the bar or the mounts are sufficient flexible to allow it. I'd not use the rubber mounts on the engine to the bar, but solidly mount the bar to the engine. Use rubber mounts at the body end. Esp. if you use the threaded bosses as the base of the cylinders as extra stiffeners, what you'll end up with is simply a solid cradle from the stock mounts to the front of the engine. This should flex very little, and exert very little torque on the front of the bar. This can be made with angle, mounting the vertical part against the pan, which would stay well out of the way of exhausts and shift rods. Any flex found could be solved by just making the vertical bit of the angle deeper.

I note that the ends of the stock bar in the stock 914 setup are subject to about the same amount of torque as this proposed mount would be, just turned 90 degrees. The stock mount has mounts on the end, and a narrow mounting point in the middle, with all of the mass of the engine bending the bar through a pretty significant length. The stock bar(s) are stout enough to keep this bending to a small enough degree that there's essentially no torque on the mounts at the ends.

Posted by: fiid Jan 7 2005, 12:16 PM

I built a bar similar to the TC Design one, and the engine would bouce about 4-5 inches on the spring in the mounting bolts. The subaru mounting points are about a foot behind the stock mount positions which mean that the weight of the engine has a mechanical advantage on the body mounting position (not good).

I fixed this by using a couple of droplinks in a similar location to your mount bar idea, which I think is a good idea - but I think you need to refine it... here's why....

A good suspension setup in a 914 ought to be able to pull somewhere around 1G in the turns which means you are going to need to support the full weight of the engine laterally (preferably more if you want a factor of safety), so I think your design ought to encompass a little more diagonal bracing if you can fit it in..... Looks good though.

Fiid.

Posted by: GS Guy Jan 7 2005, 01:12 PM

You guys seen the Small Car mount?
http://www.smallcar.com/m4.htm

Attaches solidly to the engine, with forward attachment point for a mounting bar (in this case a Vanagon - but ditch it and make your own). Anchors to the original mounts, but also further forward on the engine case. Not sure this particular mount works with the WRX exhaust layout, but they do state they've done a WRX Vanagon and make a mount for it. Maybe good for some ideas to duplicate it? Maybe Small Car sells just the side plates separately? Looks a little heavy, but sure gets the mounting point up front.
Jeff

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 7 2005, 01:52 PM

That small car mount is pretty much exactly what I'm talking about. It's way out of the way of the exhaust. A side-shifter might have the same problem it does in a stock 914 setup, so you'd either need a bigger bar with a hole or some other arrangement. With a tailshifter or a cable shifter, it should be no problem.

Posted by: Mueller Jan 7 2005, 02:02 PM

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jan 7 2005, 12:52 PM)

That small car mount is pretty much exactly what I'm talking about. It's way out of the way of the exhaust. A side-shifter might have the same problem it does in a stock 914 setup, so you'd either need a bigger bar with a hole or some other arrangement. With a tailshifter or a cable shifter, it should be no problem.

with Jon and Fiids engine, the turbos are right up front, so unless major work was done to the plumbing, that style mount would not work......

is there any way to have the mount(s) attach to the top of the engine near the front of it??

Posted by: airsix Jan 7 2005, 02:50 PM

I've once again gone into "undecided" mode regarding my 914's powerplant, but if I go with Scooby power I'm working on a design that is both a trailing-arm brace and motor-mount in a single cradle. Sorry, no you can't see a picture. If I do pursue the design I'll share with the group. For now it's mostly in my head except for rough sketches.

Why undecided? I'm seriously thinking about doing an AlienV8 + Alien rear suspension. If I had a brain in my head I'd just sell it now and get a used Elise in two years, which would put me back on the road in about the same time-frame/cost range.

-Ben M.

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 7 2005, 03:16 PM

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jan 7 2005, 12:02 PM)

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jan 7 2005, 12:52 PM) That small car mount is pretty much exactly what I'm talking about.  It's way out of the way of the exhaust.  A side-shifter might have the same problem it does in a stock 914 setup, so you'd either need a bigger bar with a hole or some other arrangement.  With a tailshifter or a cable shifter, it should be no problem. with Jon and Fiids engine, the turbos are right up front, so unless major work was done to the plumbing, that style mount would not work...... is there any way to have the mount(s) attach to the top of the engine near the front of it??

Am I misinterpreting the photos, or has Fiid's engine changed? The turbos are mounted at the upper rear of the block. The exhaust itself may point forward before heading backwards, but I think the turbos themselves aren't in the way of the mount. This upper rear mounting seems to be std. for Subaru. Both my wife's 2.5T and Eric Tischer's much older 1.8T (both single turbos) have the turbo mounted up high, behind the right-hand set of cylinders.

Won't matter to me (if I do this at all), since I'd be perfectly happy with an NA 2.2 or 2.5. I'd also probably want to push the drivetrain forward a tad (which would reduce the mounting problem), if only to provide more room for the intake w/o cutting into the trunk.

Posted by: andys Jan 7 2005, 03:30 PM

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Jan 7 2005, 07:11 AM)

yes i have seen that, emailed it to audioculture because i know about the project ( if its still going to exsist ) my probem with that mount in the amount of torque it puts on the engine and body mounts. i am not sure if the physics work out like this but it is about a 14 inch cantalever and if the part that bolts to the body is 2 inch diameter. that works out to about 250 lbs with a 14 to 1 lever against the 1 inch forward side of the mount or 3500 lbs of force trying to bend things and stretch the bolt that holds the bar to the mount on the body. like i said it might not work like this, but even at half or a quater of the weight a nice big pot hole or speed bump can generate a large force a aginst the mounts

If you were to continue the tubing structure rearward to the trans mounting points, you'd resolve the issue essentially creating a complete cradle. I too wouldn't feel comfortable with that much cantalever effect with the mount as shown. FWIW.

Andy

Posted by: Mueller Jan 7 2005, 03:30 PM

you are correct, the turbos are mounted on the backside of the engine

the plumbing for the turbos is in the front, (one feeds the other at low speeds or something like that)



a non-turbo motor would be simpler and still have plenty of power and make a great daily driver...when do we start??

Posted by: d914 Jan 7 2005, 03:50 PM

or use a sand rail header for a "front mount" turbo since we have the room


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Posted by: d914 Jan 7 2005, 03:52 PM

but I think the 2.5l 165- 180 hp in our cars would make the perfect daily driver...

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 7 2005, 03:56 PM

GS, small car sells their mount for $250 (four-cylinder engines). It requires you use the Vanagon crossbar, so it's basically only the side plates and an adapter piece. Buying their bits and adapting them to the 914 would very probably be easier than doing all the fab work yourself. Thanks for posting that.

Mike, yeah, 165hp from the NA 2.5 would be plenty, esp. given I've only got a tired 1.7 now. I think even the 2.2 makes 140hp or so. Both make as much or more power than the 2.4 911T engine I had in my first 914, which still has the best power to weight of any car I've owned. Sounds like I need to get a set of vented rotors on the car first.

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 7 2005, 06:12 PM

yup, you guys are thinking like me, i am doing the suby 2.5 na for it to be a daily driver. with a new exhaust and the egr removeed i figure i will be close to 175 hp. . now i just need to get somebody to sell me a welder for 10 bucks including shipping.

as for the engine bar i plan on installing the anti nose dive link. for those who dont know it connects from the top rear of the motor to the fire wall or in a 914 the rear trunk floor. so that should help stop any bouncing or side to side sway, by making it a 3 point mount.

Posted by: mattillac Jan 7 2005, 09:26 PM

i didn't realize there was that much room in front of the motor when doing a suby conversion. hopes of a radiator fitting there seem pretty good. some creative ducting would be needed though. what is the engine code for the motor you're installing, fiid?

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 7 2005, 09:37 PM

QUOTE (mattillac @ Jan 7 2005, 07:26 PM)

i didn't realize there was that much room in front of the motor when doing a suby conversion. hopes of a radiator fitting there seem pretty good. some creative ducting would be needed though. what is the engine code for the motor you're installing, fiid?

first i am not fiid, but i will reply any way

i am using a suby ej25.

and heres a pic to show how much room there is


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Posted by: mattillac Jan 7 2005, 09:50 PM

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Jan 7 2005, 07:37 PM)

first i am not fiid, but i will reply any way

sorry. not paying attention. thanks for the reply! what made you go for the ej25?

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 7 2005, 10:05 PM

I'm not Scott, but since he's talking for Fiid, I'll talk for Scott...The EJ20/22/25 are the most commonly available Soob engines these days. The 2.5 NA engine makes about 160hp in bone-stock trim with all cats and emissions gear. Since it's a twin-cam four-valver, it should be able to make about 200hp in reliable, streetable trim with some tweaking.

They're about $1500 used in low-miles condition. The EJ22 is about 140hp, and could make 170 or so with tweaking. They're even cheaper used (older engine).

As for all of the space forward of the engine, there's no big fan housing on the front to take up space. A bare Type IV with no housing or tin is about the same size as one of these engines. The Soob engine is also all aluminum, and weighs a bit less than a Type IV (minus the radiator).

The turbo versions of these engines make substantially more power (as much as 300hp for the 2.5), but as previously discussed, the turbos get in the way of a lot of things on the 914. Fiid has had to cut out much of his trunk and has run into starter motor clearance problems with his twin-turbo engine.

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 7 2005, 10:24 PM

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jan 7 2005, 08:05 PM)

I'm not Scott, but since he's talking for Fiid,

sorry i was not sure who he was asking.

if you decide to go this rout dont try to tweek the gen 1 2.5 too much, they found a weak point in the case and failure rates go up very quickly with more power ( one number i read was 180 hp ) the gen 2 motor is a stronger motor, due to minor case changes.

the reason i went 2.5 was the 2.2 are getting harder to find low milage. and for just a little more money ( 400 bucks ) i got 40 more hp, BTW what would 40 more hp cost out of a type IV. the weaker case is why they waited for 3 years to release the turbo 2.5 in the US

Posted by: fiid Jan 8 2005, 02:53 AM

I actually am Fiid, and these guys said nearly everything that needs to be said.

If I tried this again I might go with a 2.5 or a 2.0 naturally aspirated, or with a single turbo engine. The twin turbo setup promises to be a nightmare.

Posted by: Brando Jan 8 2005, 01:27 PM

going back to the mounting ideas...

seems you guys don't want to use pre-fabbed bars and supports because they put too much leverage on the engine mounts... One cage (or, cradle) that was posted here would have potential clearance issues with the shifting linkage...

Why not use the bar presented http://www.tcdesignfab.com/jonw-06.jpg, mount it up to the engine with subaru rubber mounts, then continue off of where the subi mount points are to the frame of the car, either to the sides or run pieces forward to the firewall. that would prevent it from gaining enough torque to bend mounting bolts. If you fabbed it just right, you could even put engine mounts between the extended frame and mounting points that you've added. It also wouldn't be too much of a hassle because you've already had to cut out or modify sections of the trunk to squeeze the engine in there. and for you turbo engine users, you could shape it around the plumbing... See attached.


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Posted by: mattillac Jan 8 2005, 04:59 PM

scott, hows your throttle body clearance? did you have to cut the trunk metal?
i was lurking around on the msefi board and i saw a scott person asking about msefi subby stuff... if that's you, how is your quest for pefi going?

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 8 2005, 06:58 PM

QUOTE (mattillac @ Jan 8 2005, 02:59 PM)

scott, hows your throttle body clearance? did you have to cut the trunk metal? i was lurking around on the msefi board and i saw a scott person asking about msefi subby stuff... if that's you, how is your quest for pefi going?

yes its me

and untill i try to fire up the suby fi i will leave it. if it gives me fits when running then i will look further at MSII, but till then suby it is.
with trunk clearence issues, i might be able to egt a 90 bend to make it but i doubt it. i plan on building the air filter, and mas in to the rear trunk with the intake breathing from underneith.

and my engine bar will not have any issues with clearence, it almost completely behind the engine.

as for the bar you showed in that link brando, is the one i think would suck because of the torgue. and then i think its like 400 buck. my mount idea has 30 bucks in steel in it, i personally refuse to pay 400 bucks then modify it

Posted by: RS22b Jan 8 2005, 10:40 PM

I find this all really fasinating being that i am a 914 owner for quite sometime now and also a Subaru owner since 2001, but had about 10 of them since then.

I am a real Subaru nut being as my daily driver is a 2001 Impreza 2.5RS coupe with a WRX motor, STi tranny, etc.etc.etc.

Also have a 2001 RS coupe Rally car that is running PGT or P2 depending on which organization i am racing with.

Just a heads up for all of you out there that are reading this and thinking of doin a suby swap into your cars.

If you decide to go with the EJ25, make sure you get one that was produced late 99 and up. 2000 and up went over to MAP instead of MAF which makes a bit better in the way of modifying these things. Also in 1999 they decided to make these motors SOHC instead of DOHC. The SOHC's are much better motors then the DOHC's.

The only motors that were good and didnt have any true problems with the DOHC were the turbocharged models.
The only turbo models sold in the US that are worthy of getting would be either the WRX motor= EJ20 or the STi motor= EJ25

Do take notice in when buying these motors that all the motor codes that are on the motors are EJ coded and do not tell of them being NA or Turbo.

EJ25 = STi, 2.5GT(2005+), Forester XT, Baja Turbo, 2.5RS, Outback, Forester, Legacy
EJ22 = Legacy Turbo(1991-93), Legacy, Impreza
EJ20 = WRX and all non-US NA motors
EJ18 = Legacy and Impreza

Please use this as a guidline to purchase your motors. And for any parts and questions about modifying your subie motors goto www.nasioc.com You will find all info ever noted in these motors and others.

Hope this helps anyone.

Billy

Posted by: mattillac Jan 11 2005, 07:33 PM

scott, what do you think about cutting and rewelding the intake manifold so that the throttle body faces the front of the motor? do you think it would be in the way of anything else that's on the motor?

for any of the welders on the forum, is it ok to weld cast aluminum? i hear that aluminum isn't the easiest metal to weld, but would it be harder if the aluminum has already been cast as a manifold?

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 11 2005, 09:11 PM

the only thing that would be in the way is the alt. but it can be relocated, but if i did that i can reverse the manifold. and before people say it, there is a reverse manifold mod but its for the water. i dont want to move the alt because the only place to put it is where the ac compressor is and some day i want to hook it up too.

i could do a top intake ala d jet but it is too close to the engine lid.

Posted by: mattillac Jan 12 2005, 01:05 PM

scott, are you saying that you can remove the intake manifold and put it back on so that the throttle body would face the front of the car?

Posted by: RS22b Jan 12 2005, 01:30 PM

yes you can do it. All you have to do is move that alt. like he was saying. Most rally cars that have this dont have an AC system and they put the alt just where the AC compressor is.

Posted by: mattillac Jan 12 2005, 01:40 PM

i didn't think you could just flip the intake like that. good to know.

hmmm. plenty of room in front of the motor, don't have to cut the trunk wall if i dont mind relocating the alt. subby power is looking more promising. i was thinking of a 13b conversion eventually, but a subby i think would be more reliable.

Posted by: Dman Jan 12 2005, 03:42 PM

I have been looking into swaps for a long time, Billy do you think this motor would be a good choice?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7945499733#ebayphotohosting

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 12 2005, 03:47 PM

As stated earlier, the non-turbos are an easier swap than the turbos, as the turbo plumbing really gets in the way. That same Ebay seller has some 2.5 NA engines for sale.

Posted by: Mueller Jan 12 2005, 03:49 PM

QUOTE (Dman @ Jan 12 2005, 02:42 PM)

I have been looking into swaps for a long time, Billy do you think this motor would be a good choice? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7945499733#ebayphotohosting

I hate sellers that are too stupid to put down their location.....that'll make or break a sale.....

sweet little motors....I should have picked a subaru motor instead of the VR6 engine....that sure was a bad choice

Posted by: Dman Jan 12 2005, 03:57 PM

These guys are down south, looks like they have all of them.

http://www.nippon-motors.com/subaru.htm

Does anyone have any expirience with a vendor like this?

Posted by: lapuwali Jan 12 2005, 04:04 PM

But you're staying air-cooled, Mike. Just sell the VR6 and start plotting the turbo you'll add to that T4 you're building...

I don't have any direct experience with these "JDM" engine vendors, but the ricer guys use them a great deal. The thing with Japan is there are laws and a culture built up to strongly encourage consumption, so "old" cars (like 5-6 years old) are regularly scrapped. Mileage is low even for that age as no one can drive much there, and certainly not at any real speed. So, they're buying up practically new engines at scrap prices, and shipping them over here by the container load. On top of all that, there are engines available in Japan not available anywhere else. There was a twin-cam VTEC Honda four available there YEARS before the US market got them. The main issue would be parts later, but the engines are cheap enough that you'd not rebuild, just replace.

Posted by: Mueller Jan 12 2005, 04:05 PM

QUOTE (Dman @ Jan 12 2005, 02:57 PM)

These guys are down south, looks like they have all of them. http://www.nippon-motors.com/subaru.htm Does anyone have any expirience with a vendor like this?

I'm pretty sure that is the place Jon Watts and I picked up his twin-turbo subaru engine from......no issues, they had a pretty good selection of engines

Posted by: Dman Jan 12 2005, 04:10 PM

Thanks, I think this I think this is the direction I am leaning today.

Posted by: RS22b Jan 12 2005, 04:16 PM

QUOTE (Dman @ Jan 12 2005, 04:42 PM)

I have been looking into swaps for a long time, Billy do you think this motor would be a good choice? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7945499733#ebayphotohosting

hey Duane,

Personally a motor like that i wouldnt even think of putting in my Subie, let alone a 914.

Prob is it is a jdm motor. You do not want to go with anything jdm for this type of application unless you know what you are working with and know where or how to tune these motors.

My motor in my subie is from a usdm wrx, but i have a TEC3 controlling it that i tune myself. Most ppl will just put a wrx motor and splice the 2 harnesses together.

If you do go jdm or for that matter any motor, make sure you are getting a complete motor, with motor harness and ecu if possible. Most of the time the jdm stuff comes with no ecu and no intercooler if it is turbo. Sometimes even the turbos are missing. They will often just cut the wiring harness which then leaves you with nothing to work with.

if you are looking for some motors, check out www.nasioc.com that is the worlds largest subaru group. So many ppl are doin swaps right now. N/A to turbo and even the turbo guys are swappin out those motors to goto the jdm TypeRA motors.

There are plenty out there. Just gotta find the right one.

-good luck