Looking forward to working on this project so I can drive my own car to WCR 2016
Good on ya, send more pictures!!!
Here's the important picture. Seems to be a little bit of surface rust those pretty solid when I started poking at it underneath the battery tray. Car was purchased in 78 with 38000 miles on it. The woman who owned it paid $100 a month for 23 years to keep it in dry storage.
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Fuchs wheels including the spare wheel and the original factory steel wheels
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Needs some interior help. Luckily I know where to get that from
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Little bit of surface rust in trunk
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Not too bad
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Needs a new master cylinder or rebuild
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I'd just get a NEW M/C ... rebuild kits aren't plentiful these days
Inside storage SAVED the car!
I'll never understand how people find these cars...
Your picture is not a picture of the master cylinder. That is the reservoir for the m/c.
The m/c is under the car.
It looks like a good find!!! What year is it, what serial number, and it looks like a 1.7? and,….
A somewhat early '72, nice vintage. When do we see the rest?
Wild looking wide body- any other pictures of that one? Your find is definitely not an everyday experience and more than a few of us (me included!) are a little jealous! That's okay- jump on it and enjoy it! And...
Nice find !
You have 2 now? Whats wrong with the wide body?
Fun with 14's.
Nice catch,a '72,I even like the colour.
A great candidate for a total restoration,with no metalwork,a rare thing indeed.
The fiberglass kit is so retro '80s,what a great way to inspire further study.
Coincidentally,the kits came up recently.
Here are a few more examples:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=274766&st=11
I recall the ads for those kits on the pages of vw and hotrodding mags in the late '70s or '80s on.
Had to do the big tire thing and cover them with something,they were available.
The reaction of some puristas is so out of proportion to their financial stake it's hilarious.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=foam+and+fiberglass+car
The madness is a growing trend,the automotive designer at home.
veekry9
Thanks for the links. There is a lot of cool stuff going on with kits. I wouldn't have put the kit on the 914 as my 1st Choice of project. This was a very cool use of an infinity
http://vaydorexotics.com/about-vaydor/
But that is way off topic for these cars.
Seems a guy has made it happen,and I'm sure that it appeals to a younger crowd weaned on drift cars and such.
The market will tell,I have a pix of a Cobra done in a similar way,all Transformer Decepticon looking.
What is good is that they didn't attempt a cheesy version of an Italian exotic.
Having the skills and will,as well as perfect timing,a guy could make a go of it,bringing his own hybrid powered car to market.
No easy thing though,years of sustained effort needed.
(edit)
Well,it kinda reminded me of a Cobra,turns out it far exceeds the 427 Roadster in performance,blown and all.Yikes.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=Zeno+STI&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=606&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwili-PIlOPKAhXBGx4KHZYwA20Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=Zenvo+STI
All of the suspension rubber is likely beat and deteriorated.
If they are in workable condition,a longer term schedule can be made for replacement and or upgrading.
Some '72s didn't come equipped with antiroll bars,a feature most desired up front.
Careful with that engine,do not attempt to turn it without an internal scope inspection.
Any rust in the bores will break the piston lands upon startup,one cylinder has been open for 23 years.
The lubes must be re + re'd,being kinda funky by now.
Having a look at the clutch condition and its cable is a must,avoiding headaches later.
All of the drivetrain cv joints and bearings need inspection too.
The FI system is a task for an expert,the pinouts on the electrical harness critical to it's function.
Good looking car,a thorough going over will reap good results.
If the distributor has been removed,and the hole unplugged,check for squirrel stashes internally.
No kidding.
Just info, you mentioned the engine was built to a 19xx. The most popular big bore kit for the 1.7L is 1911. 96mm P&Cs on the stock 66mm crank. Nice peppy short-stroke motors
It all depends on which route the builder took. Stock 1.7L pistons are 90mm, the 1911 would be 96mm. Unless he used the thin wall barrels made to work with stock 1.7L heads, the heads and the case would have been fly-cut to allow for the larger diameter barrels. The only way to know for sure what the builder did (unless he provided you with documentation) is to pull a head and measure the barrel thickness.
The case would not need to be cut, just the heads.
The 96es that fit in 1.7 heads are very thin at the top (2mm, I think) and don't tend to last that well. But they are quite useable for a while!
--DD
Dave is correct, the heads wouldn't require machining if the builder installed the 'slip-fit (thinner) 96mm barrels.
With these cars being as old as they are, and who knows how many POs, you never know what's been done to the motors (unless the PO can provide accurate/truthful details), or you pull it apart.
I wouldn't sweat it ... a 1911 will definitely test your skills in the twisties
Being in my golden years, I'm more into fuel economy than muscle. A well-sorted FI 1.7L is in the cards for me. When my wife's '71 1.7L ('Howard') is finally finished, my hotrod 'BB' will be on the market.
I have a Restoration Design battery tray and support, thank you Mark (Mikey914) I know I need the tray, but do I need the support too?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3O-Ol2OmZxg
In your neck of the woods,a good choice in a one stop shopping trip is the Eastwood line of products.
Rust prepping,
rust neutralizing,
more prepping,
masking.
epoxy primer,
sanding,
masking,
more primer,
sanding,
masking,
color dusting,
color coating,
sanding,
buffing,
polishing,
gleaming.
A lot of work,you have to be prepared to be diligent in the details.
It's the why of automotive body and painting costs,a lot of work.
http://www.eastwood.com/paints/2k-aero-spray-paints.html
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=automotive+body+repair+paint+supply+oregon
Did I mention sanding?
First.
Try out your skills on a old rusted fender,2 square yards.
If you can,with the labor you supply,bring it back to a finish that everyone says is beautiful,why then proceed with the 914.
Told him to try cleaning with simple green 1st. There is a steam cleaner so that will help. See what you have before you make too many plans. It may mostly clean up nice, but I'm thinking the about of work needed is minimal . It looked pretty solid.
I was able to get a better look at the car today. It really is pretty solid. I did get some better pictures of it and in looking at the hell hole, I can see that the rust has go all the way through the metal in some pin holes.
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I am not sure what rust issues I may have inside the longs.hopefully it is not too bad under the rocker pannels
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Took off the rocker pannels and there was lots of dirt. (Thankfully very dry dirt) the rest looks great
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What is the best way to take care of this level of rust in the hell hole? Who do you prefer to get the metal from, or do you just make your own patch for this?
Decided to go ahead and fix the damaged fender and minor dings aroundthe body and paint the car. So I guess this is project thread now.
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Everything is coming apart nicely.
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Getting ready to steam clean everything.
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Very nice red breaks. I guess there was some leftover in the can after the fender. Sent these off to Eric at PMB. Will be replacing breaks, bearings and suspension all the way around.
Now I just need to find a factory front swaybar. Anyone have one they are willing to part with?
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Steam cleaning today
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Few more photos from today
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Nice find! Add the Vin to our data base.
Nice progress, looks like you have a mix of long and short wheel bolts. If you run the fuchs make sure to find a full set of long bolts.
Coming and going. Got the 72 home to complete the body work and prep for paint. Lucas has been busy this week with with the DA sander, stud welder and dent puller.
Sent the wide body out to fix the wheel spacer issue and bent trailing arm. May be able to get both cars to West Coast Rally
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Have not had much time lately to post progress on the car. Repairs made to the minor rust in the hood seal channel.
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Driver's side fender had some issues after the bearings froze from sitting so long, and the wheel came off and split the fender. It had been repaired but needed a little help.
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Someone had drilled a few holes in behind the bumper for something. Tow hitch?
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Dents are almost all pulled.
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Put down some primer just to keep any rust from starting while we do the body work.
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Just curious...what are the holes the rear trunk lid for?
Ok this car has been stalled too long. I have enlisted the services of Kent at Brosseau's Coachworks in Oregon City. I am hoping to get this car ready for a road trip back to Hershey PA in April.
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A few more of Kent's progress on my car
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Nice find !
Nice save !
Haven't posted progress on here for a little bit so here is a lot of photos on what's been going on.
I decided to have factory swaybars put in front and rear for the car . This is the progress on that along with the worth coating going on after the work was completed to look like it was installed at the factory.
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Next was laying color down in the trunks
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and lots and lots of cutting and buffing (over 25 hours worth)
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Undercoated the complete car with rubberized undercoating
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My rear valance was a little too far gone. PO took it off so he could put on 4 tip monza exhaust. Then left it outside for years. Thankfully Craig and Camp914 is only about a mile from the body shop. Thank you Craig
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Cary Kutter freshened up some of the suspension for me. The car will be going to his shop for me to do some work with his guidance. Getting excited to learn from him. Hope to get lots of install photos and possibly videos for the new website that we have been working on forever now. We will be putting in one of our rebuilt steering racks, Stainless steel fuel lines and getting the wiring harness back in place.
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Very cool and exciting.
Great color! Keep up the good work!
What was the black stuff they sprayed in the trunk before they painted?
Looks great. I can see why your so anxious to get started.
Tank looks like new. Now I just need to coordinate the bodyshop, the guy I am borrowing the enclosed trailer from and Cary's schedule so we can get to the reassembly.
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Some updates
Cary Kutter cam out to the body shop last Saturday with his enclosed trailer and pick up the car. He brought it back to his shop, Middle Motors where we will continue the project. He has been gracious enough to let me work on it on his lift and give me guidance that I will definitely need a lot if. Thank you Cary.
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Rebuilding the peddle cluster and replacing everything running through the tunnel.
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A few nights a week to get work done, but a lift, all the needed tools and help when needed. I could do this every night
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The car is in great shape and all of the nuts and bolts are coming right out with ease. Going to need all new bellows for all the cables in the engine bay. Anyone know where I can get some?
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Pulled the factory fuel lines to replace them with new stainless steel lines.
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Engine bay ready for some love. Rubberized undercoating or bedliner?
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Haven't updated for a little while so here's what has been going on. Found some damage to the bottom of the driver's side suspension. So we (Cary) pulled it to replace with the parts I had him clean up already. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=187546&view=findpost&p=2448492 and http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=187546&view=findpost&p=2450682
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With the suspension out. We will freshen everything up. I spent a lot of time in the blasting cabinet
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Got the rear trailing arms and suspension off
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Everything comes apart so easily on this car. Hopefully it will all go back together as easily.
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Bearings and bushings are out thanks to a super in-laws jig http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=187546&view=findpost&p=2475422
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Cleaning up the trailing arms and associated parts
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Heat exchangers ready for ceramic coating
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=187546&view=findpost&p=2482838
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Haven't updated for a while as there has not been too much exciting happening. Just lots of time in the blasting cabinet and taking things in for fresh powder coating and zinc plating. Until today. I picked up the exhaust from the ceramic coater and they turned out awesome.
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After the Kent in the body shop told me that none of the tubings that you can get to cover the wiring harness tabs on the body are correct like the factory ones coming off. We decided to make the tubing to match the appearance of the factory ones with the correct shine. I got the chance to put them on the car and I really like how they went on and looked. They slide right on but have just enough grab to them to stay on well.
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Cleaned up the head light assemblies and found a pretty cool light that Bruse Stone said was pretty rare.
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Getting lots of nice looking parts. Getting closer to assembly
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One of these is a new 914Rubber part comming soon
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A few schnoor washers got in to the batch that got replated. These will be thrown out and replaced with new ones. They are one time use.
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Old part vs new part. 914Rubber percision Stainless Steel pivot shafts
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Ran the wiring harness back into the front trunk.
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Attention to detail ,appears you have some contacts ,well done looks great .
That is some nice 914 Porn.
You mean the nut?
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No, not the nut.
The picture answers the question.
The original shafts have a collar or shoulder that is a perfect fit into the inner
chassis ear and the outside alignment bracket. It acts to locate the shaft with no play.
The shoulder is visible, is it a tight fit into the chassis features ?
The shafts also have serrations that (when tight) prevent rotation of the shafts with suspension movement.
Both features are important. The mating surface in the photo is smooth.
Gotta love an unlimited budget project that will exceed its' budget.
Nice ork!
What you can't see yet is what we are doing with the rubber.
These are in testing right now.
Matt, Your upper rear latch trunk assembly needs to have the plate flipped around.
Craig at CAMP
I grabbed the sample from the shop before they were done. They will have the correct ends when were done. Thanks for the heads up.
Update: After lots of trial and error we found it best to use an aggressive locking washer rather than trying to machine the ridges in to the shafts.
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Worked on the wiper mechanism yesterday
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We make all of the bushings to rebuild these on the 911. But on the 914 they are pressed together and would have to be drilled out. Luckily all if the bushings were in great shape on my assembly.
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Replaced all of the parts that wear out with new ones we make.
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Worked on the wiring harness for the front trunk. It needed some cleaning and to be re wrapped but it was in pretty good shape
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Cleaned wires and taped with the cloth tape
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Replacing all grommets and boots with new ones we make. We are now working on the round one shown here.
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The old boot was not in too bad of shape but was starting to crack so I replaced it. Tip for instilling the wires. Put the boot in hot water for a minute to soften it up. Us a little wire lube. Work the 1st connector in and then push it in with next one so they are both sliding in at the same time. Push the rest of the way in using needle nose pliers.
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New grommet, tape and our new wiring harness tab covers.
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Learned that the "Engine Deck Lid Bumper" is actualy used in 2 places. The other is in the front trunk to keep water out in these 2 holes
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Got the wiper assembly mounted. Figured out the order to do thing's in. 1st step Attached the windshield wiper Isolator to the assembly.
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Step 2 put on everything up to the lower "femail" wiper grommets and then get them seated as low as possible so the posts can come through the holes far enough for the nut to thread.
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Put the other end of the isolator through the firewall. (Photo is upside down for some reason.)
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Stick the wiper posts through the holes. Marke suret that they are centered and pull the posts through as far as you can.
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Add "male" wiper grommets and push the down as far as you can go. Ad metal cap washer and then the nut to tighten it all down.
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Tighten nut on the isolator
Got more parts back from plating this week.
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The blower fan is all cleaned up and ready to go back in
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Got the pressure regulator rebuilt by Eric Shae at PMB and ordered all new hard lines. So I had to clean up the engine bay to be able to start putting parts on. Metal was in great shape underneath the paint and all the seam sealer.
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The boy is busy ...........
He got pretty dirty yesterday. But it look great.
Reassembled the fresh air mixing box and put on new drain hoses.
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Took the controls apart to clean up before reinstalling them.
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Blower for the heater is ready to go back in.
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Stripped and re plated and painted headlights. Then put in all new bushings and lights.
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Engine back from machine shop so we start with new heads, valves, springs, keepers, guides all rebuilt and ready to go. The block is cleaned and deburred. Crank shaft is balanced and polished. Brand new pistons, rings, barrels. Connecting rods preend, balanced, checked and resleaved. Cam work done. 1911 striker assembly starting next week.
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Cary fixed a loose tube for the accelerator cable. That should make the car go faster right?
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A lot of good work happening in this thread, keep it up!
Took the engine bay back down to metal and got it primed today. Etching primer followed by sandable primer and sanded with 320 between coats. Drying until Tuesday then we will get seam sealer back on from a calling gun and then sprayer before laying down color and clear.
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This will cure until Thursday and then we'll hit the corners at least with Wurth.
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Took apart the airbox controls, cleaned and reassembled.
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Cleaned up the defrost vents and control boxes. Hope to install all of this Thursday.
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Reapplied seam sealer from gun. Much better result
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Haven't uploaded any progress for a while so here's a few more photos. We got the spray in seam sealer, wurth undercoat and paint in the engine bay.
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Took seats to an awesome 3rd generation upholstery wizard. Brought Justice along with me from the shop so he can get trained by him to recover seats. Thanks to people like Jamie rust we have about 15 - 20 sets of seats that can be used as a core Exchange program so that will be able to do completed seats in the future. He's also working on improving our patterns for installation by the Layman so it should make it easier on everyone that wants to do it themselves.
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Cleaned up the mixing boxes and put on re plated clips
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Cleaned up the defroster vents and replaced the seals. The old ones had degraded in to a sticky mess.
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Installed new washers, check valves and lines.
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Cary figured out the best way to install the fresh air mixing box in the car.
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I upgraded to the late style grill and seal for the air box. The key to this is superglue and patience. The factory seals were glued to the grills. I superglued the grill into the seal and let it set up for the night. Then I glued the sill to the Box halfway around and let it set. Then I came back and glued it to the other side so that it was completely glued to the Box. When I went to install I used the Sil Glide liberally all the way around so that the new rubber didn't stick to the new paint and make it come off the Box.
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This is Carys magic wand for installing the fresh air mixing box
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Stripped and repainted the fog light housings
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I realized that I had wrapped the wiring harness with the wrong width of tape. So I pulled it and redid it with the correct width.
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Got in some new grommets for the headlight and fog light wires.
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Put new seals on the long to mixing box hoses and installed them with the re plated hose clamps
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The tunnel is the last part of the car needing some love.
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We pulled out the wiring harness to clean out the tunnel and sort out a few wires that had shorted and melted together.
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Dremel tool on a wand and lots of wire brushes helped to clean out a lot of the areas
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Cleaned up shifter linkage from the tunnel
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Found the other door latch to get cleaned up
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Found a very small hole through the bottom of the tunnel that needed welding. Easy fix.
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The carbs cleaned up nicely. There a few thing's that are broken and need to be replaced.
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Today's fun was cleaning up the wiring harness and figuring out where to start repairing it.
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Everywhere the green tape is at is where a wire was melted to nearby wires.
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A previous owner cut the gray wire here and spliced in something. Does anyone have any ideas on This?
I have cut the wire between the fuse panel in the car and the snorkel but everything after that is encased and I am hoping not to have to cut in to it to repair things. I will be running carbs but was hoping some day to put the FI back one day.
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Test fitting some new parts in the car.
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Got the Eastwood treatment in the tunnel (you can kind of see the green in the tunnel in the picture above) I treated all the other surfaces inside the car that were not treated. Now waiting for it to dry completely. The high temps this week should help. I have been keeping a fan running to help the drying
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Got some help from my big brother Mark (Mikey914)
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Got some new 914 Rubber seals in the trunk
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Got the new wiring harness insulating sleeves on all of the tabs now
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Got the new vent filters in and the re plated door striker plates on the car
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Picked up a new wiring harness in great shape to replace my melted harness. I will be working on it tomorrow but the forecast is calling for a high of 107. Hopefully I won't melt working in it.
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Ended up pulling the entire harness out
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I will replace the dash face with new metal and vinyl.
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Got the old harness out and compared it to the 2 I picked up hoping for a miracle. Unfortunately they did not match up but it did have the needed wires all intact.
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tedious work but I was able to get the donor wiring harness broke down
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Made some progress today. Went through every wire in the harness pulled the wires that I needed from the donor harness and started putting them in my harness to replace the damaged ones.
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Engine is getting closer to being done. Now I need to figure out what transmission to use. I have the one from the 73 that I think will be the upgrade. I will be asking for advice on this swap in a separate thread.
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Engine build is progressing along nicely. Case is now closed.
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Scott rebuilt the steering rack for me with new bushings and bearings. We will be putting turbo tie rods on next
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Added front sway bar with new 914Rubber sway bar bushings.
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Cleaning up and replacing everything possible on the suspension.
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New struts/shocks from PMB that I bought right after getting the car. Thought I was going to be driving it with just a few tune up items.
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Had to figure out how to get the spring purch off. (Thank you Cary)
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Cap and purch cleaned up and on the new shock
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Rebuild steering rack back in with powder coated parts.
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I will be upgrading to a side shift transmission. Getting the already powder coated kit from Bruce Stone.
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Adding new 914Rubber control arm bushings.
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Been a little warm in the shop the past week.
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We pulled out the parts for under the car today and started getting them on the car.
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Cary made lots of progress today. Got new 914Rubber bushings and bearings pressed on to the control arms and trailing arms.
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New shocks on cleaned parts. Ready to go back on the car.
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Looking great, time well spent.
Lost a few wields on the nuts for the sway bar. Cary got them fixed and I touched up the paint.
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Had to fix one of the taillight housings to keep moisture out in the future.
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I had treated (painted) under the dash, the longs and the top of the tunnel with "rust treatment" After a week of it still not drying I went back to read the can to find out what was up. I had painted it with Eastwood frame sealer. It's finish is a tacky / oily finish to keep moisture out Under the car
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Today I worked on my yoga stretching reaching all the hard to reach places with a rear and mineral spirits, wiping off my mistake
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Got it all cleaned up. Tomorrow I will treat it with Por15 and then paint over it.
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I feel your pain. I've likewise made errors that required significant back tracking.
Beautiful project.
Believe me, we all have. I feel your pain.
Preparing to treat with Por15 top coat
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Next question, do I paint this red now, or leave it be? I will be putting down a fatmat type material.
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After I cleaned up the brush from painting the Por15, I noticed rust in the door. How dis I miss this before?
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Uses wire brushes and dremmel tool with a wand to get the rust off. Then vacuumed it out, wiped it all down with acitone. After it was dry, I acid treated the rust. After that was dry, I wiped it down again, I painted the entire inside of the door skin with Por15. I will be putting the fatmat type material in here as well.
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Looks good, Matt. This car looks like a labor of love. Some day we will BOTH be done, driving, hanging out with cool cars and this will all be worth it. Right?
Spent some time sorting through the parts I have left to put on the car today. I did get the new stainless steel pivot shaft and new polygraphite bushings pressed into the trailing arm. (914Rubber parts preview)
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I really like how well this went together. Good job on these Mark!
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Got the headlight motors cleaned up and installed.
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Preview of new parts comming out from 914Rubber
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Got the color and clear down in the car today
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Body shop took off my vin plate. Anyone have any suggestions on where to get the correct rivits to put this back on?
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I know this will all be under the carpet and it won't really matter, but I want it right.
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Had to think about how to get this back in without scraching things up
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Took the painted headlight covers off and then removed the stop/ adjuster bolt
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Then replaced the adjustment stop bolt after running a thread cleaner over it and through the nut.
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Attached the push arm to the armature and the armature to the motor. Kept everything loose to give me wiggle room to get everything connected.
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Attached the push arm to the housing assembly. Then tightened up everything.
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This is when the wires and new grommets should be in place
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Screw on cover. (Photo is showing the wrong screw location. It is actually the ones be hind this that are recessed. Screws do go in this location, but go through the cover 1st.
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I will be taking a few days off for my son's wedding. 1st boy getting Married. Lots of logistics to take care of for the wedding this Saturday. Lots of complications with all of the traffic that is in the state for the eclipse. They were not aware of it when they set their wedding date and they just so happen to plan it right in the path of totality. Already stories on the news of gas stations running out of gas and roads being completely plugged. So that's adding to the stress. Wish us luck. I'll be back to work on the car next week. In the meantime Cary's making progress with getting suspension components back on the vehicle.
Harvested the rear sway bar off of my 73 but now I need to track down the bolt for the suspension on the trailing arm that has the cup for the drop link before I can add the sway bar
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Matt,
Looks great . in another thread folks are looking to get rear shocks just like yours. Where did you source them?
Need to get the gas tank cleaned up next. The outside was painted and I thought it was treated. Looking inside, I think it needs a little more love.
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Put some apple cider vinegar and ball bearings in the tank for the night. Worked it around inside pretty good to get every angle.
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Sealed up so I could work the ball bearings and vinegar all around
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Had to get a few photos of some of our new parts.
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With the suspension in we could tighten the spring up front
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Installed new stainless steel lines in the tunnel
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So far I've only been able to get one through the grommet. I'll continue trying tomorrow
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Need to figure out which Tabs are used for holding the lines and place in the tunnel.
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Got the new pedal cluster in that Bruce Stone restored for me and added a plate for hand throttle since I'll be using carbs.
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Everything but the wiring harness and carpet is now in the rrar trunk
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Replaced the grounding strap for the transmission.
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Added new engine Bay liner with water proofing.
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New Dash face metal and vinyl ready to install tomorrow.
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Got the headlight surrounds all cleaned up. Love the look of the white on there with the red.
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Awesomeness!
Every time I see these restorations I get a little overwhelmed thinking about all the work ahead of me.
But as I follow along with your build, I can see that chipping away at it will get it done.
(though it's a bit unfair that you get Super In-Law help! Does he make house calls? )
Thanks for the entertainment and encouragement to soldier on!
Can't wait for the post when you fire it up and do the first drive. Soon?
Looks like you were busy after we left ................
Continued getting the dash ready today. Put the new vinyl on the glove box door.
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Wrapped the vinyl around the base of the door like the Factory did and clamped it to let it set up for the night
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Cleaned up the heater control lever and got it put back together I'm ready to go in
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Hope to get the hand throttle, heater control, linkage and wiring harness into the tunnel tomorrow.
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Got the vent hose and the hose from the passenger side long to the mixing box installed. Had to get the mixing boxes and the interior vents screwed back in after painting the interior.
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On the drivers side I mocked up and alternative hose that we sell too, to try and figure out what one I like better. What do you think?
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Got the harness fished in to the front trunk (again)
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Got the hand throttle figured out and will be completing the installation tomorrow.
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Got the shifter out of the 73 to go with the hand throttle and the restored sideshift linkage that I got from Bruce stone.
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Aside from presenting an epic rebuild, I compliment you for the excellent photography that has brought this work up close and well documented. As a retired photographer, I'm curious about the camera equipment used to make these images? You were often working in some very confined spaces!
Another long day today. We (Cary) got the the fuel pump inspection door cut out and got the panel blasted, polished and painted. I ran the wires the the harness already so now I just need to work in the ground back to the main grounding post buy the fuse box.
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Super-in-law was busy cutting up another car, but posed for a photo. I told him we needed one for a t-shirt that we can put him in a cape. "Super-in-law... Jack of all trades"
He is my hero
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This is the rebuilt steering rack that I neglected to get a picture of earlier
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Got the new LED lights in and took plenty of pictures for installation instructions.
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Got the Dremel tool with the wand out and clean the paint off of all of the ground Post terminals
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Got the wires in to new boots for one side. What a pain in the assembly! I now understand why we started making pre-wired boots. Way easier to cut out the old dad wires and Boots and just add fresh new ones.. but after working so hard to preserve this harness I'll probably do it the hard way on the other side too.
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Got all the turn signals wired and installed with new boots and seals
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Got the parts out to put the fog lights back on the car and realized I hadn't taken care of the front of them around the lenses
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Cleaned it up and realized I needed to repaint it I will be adding different lenses and lens protectors
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Added the lens protector to the fog light lens
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Wiring harness it is all back in and completely installed in the front trunk
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Changed out the hoses to the ones of the using since I had them out for getting the wiring back in
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Looking great!
Re: the choice for turn signal lenses:
First place: European. I REALLY like the way the clear lower section echos the white of the headlight surround.
Runner Up: US spec: It almost disappears, given the color of your car. Very clean.
I've never cared for the "all clear" as, to me, it looks too modern and you lose the visual cue of how the lens carries the fender curve over to the bumper top.
But that's just me.
Matt, you're going to have one of THE cleanest cars out there. You have certainly earned the right to be very proud of your efforts!
Good on you and thanks for all the detailed pics.
(Other than the fact that now I'm going to have to up my game on all the details of my build... )
He is my hero
[/quote]
I've been after a Super In-Law t-shirt since I first learned about him!
And I agree, that right there would be a PERFECT pic for the shirt!
Suggestion: 914 Rubber needs to use this as the first in a series of "Caption this photo" contests.
The winning submission comment gets used on the t-shirt and the submitter wins a 914 Rubber gift certificate.
Something like:
"You need a patch panel? Hold on, I'll be right back!"
[/quote]
It's funnier when you see what he was doing.
Caption that....and go
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Euro for sure. Clear looks good on green and black cars imho.
Looks great..
Some pics from the guy that's building my engine today. Looks like I will need to clean the case up a little bit when I get it back
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Got them mounted and realized I didn't assemble it correct and had to take the first one back off the lens has a notch in it that lines up for the housing ring so that when you put the final clip in it holds the housing face on
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Wiring harnesses all complete in the front trunk and I added in the power for the fuel pump
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Got the new washer lines in place and The Grommet back in to hold them. I still will be doing an electric pump but for now this will have to do
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Haven't had any time to post any updates since I'm pretty much been working on the car around the clock trying to get ready for Okteenerfest
Got the new dash face metal and vinyl (914Rubber) on the car
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Swapped out all the lights except for the generator light with LEDs
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Got a few more things cleaned up and installed back in the front trunk area
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Tried and failed at installing the dash top vinyl. I didn't stretch it out as I was installing it and tried to do it by myself. Turned out very lumpy and I pulled it all out to start over
I guess it's a good learning experience right?
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Got all the wiring harness installed and hooked up all the way to the tunnel. Need to get the stainless steel fuel lines finalized before I can put everything else through it
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War-pig (Mike) worked up some stainless steel fuel lines but I needed to make some modifications to my fuel line grommet on the tank side
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Replaced all of the old rubber hoses on the return lines to the charcoal canister
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Got a Little Help from 914rubber boys yesterday. My brother Mark, shop manager Scott and interior artiste Justice came out for the day to try and help me get some things done.
Previous owner thought dual exhaust would look better. So he removed the stock lower Valance and put a dual tip exhaust on the car. The heat from that destroyed the Chrome on the bottom lip of the bumper. Scott took a sander and a die grinder tipped off in Edge and knock down all of the flaking Chrome. Then primed it with acid etch primer, lots of filler primer, sealer, high temp chrome paint, High reflective mirror chrome paint, and clear. Turned out pretty decent compared to what it was.
Justice helped with the door and reinstalled the steering column. Within realized that the new Dash face metal was in the way and had to take it back off to get the column on first
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Mark (Mikey914) did the passenger door For me and found some variations to the early door that adjustments needed to be made tou the parts going on the car, that I would have not figured out. you rock thank you for the help Big Brother
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All new 914rubber parts on the door. Door stays rebuilt, the door handle didn't need to be rebuilt but I put new rubber seals in. Cleaned up the door switch and put on a new rubber piece. New door card clips and plugs. New triangle window seal, new aluminum track with fuzzy and outer scraper new inner fuzzy ..... you get the idea. Zinc plated the door mechanism
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Eric at PMB, rebuilt my brake balancer. Got that on last night at about 2 in the morning with some of the brake lines before I finally called it quits
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Engine should be done on Saturday. Carb still need to be rebuilt working on transmission swap to the side shift now and mating it it to the engine block
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OK....I'll bite.
What "adjustments" needed to be made to what parts for your door assembly?
Is there a difference in this between early and late cars?
Also did you test your door contact switch (the one with the 4 small male prongs) to see if it works?
On mine, both door contact switches were shot.
If they don't work, they are a "bear" to find in working condition.
I finally found a couple of old VW bus switches to do the job.
These 4 contact switches are only needed if you want the buzzer to sound if you've left your keys in the ignition switch with the door open.
Otherwise, a simpler and easier to find 2 prong door switch will work....plus some studying of the wiring harness to see which wires aren't needed anymore and can be taped up.
Plus....how are you posting these "collage of pics" pictures?
What software package are you using?
They're great and allow for many more pics in a small amount of space.
Another very late night. Today we got the wiring harness all back in place.
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A buddy of mine was able to get me some hushmat at the last minute. So today I went and pick that up head got it installed in the passenger door and the passenger floor pan. It takes a little time but it goes in nice. I'll be interested to see if I can tell the difference between noise and this car and others.
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Motor is now almost completely built and mounted to a 73 side shift transmission. Not enough time to clean it up at this point I'll have to come back out and get rebuilt later. They are ready for me to pick it up in the morning which is now only a few hours away so I better get to sleep
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I ran a marathon back in 1985. Watching the amount of work that's evidenced by all the pics that are flying out of Matty's camera reminds me of the last 4 miles of my race and how important the crowd's cheering was and how it buoyed me when I just wanted to be done, to sit down, to do anything but use my legs.
Come one everyone! Let's help him across the finish!
Matty, we're here for you! You can do it! WOOP, WOOP, GO Matty!
Matt, mine is a late jack (I believe). Yours is a '72? Will that work for you?
Am I late? I just realized you're on a deadline...
I think we need a super-in-law T shirt!
Delivered to your door? Apparently if you set the engine and transmission on a hollow-core door breaks through it and just sits in there nice and snug and doesn't move for transport
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Motor and engine tins made it to the shop. As soon as I pulled in super a law was waiting like a pit crew to try and pull it out of the truck. My very lifted truck . He grabbed my step ladder and jumped into the back to hook the motor to the cherry picker. At this point has daughter and granddaughter came to pick him up and take him home and get him out of the Heat. He didn't really want to go but they took him. "Why do I have to go?" "Because you're 87 years old and it's too hot."
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Took another shot at the dash top vinyl. This time I'll let the edge set up really good so I can pull against it and stretch as I put the rest of it down. I'll let this drive for a day and then finish it.
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Got all the rest of the hushmat sound deadening installed. So the passenger side has the original early door. The driver side at some point received a late door and still had the dealer part sticker on it. Let me just say the early door is the easy one to put the sound deadening in. The late door sucked I'm glad that's all done but it took forever. What a P.i.t.a.
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Moonlighting starts tomorrow. Starting at 9am Working till 9 or
10 pm. Tuesday & Wednesday, Rothsport till 5pm. MiddleMotors from 6pm till 9 or 10 pm.
Jack will come out at 9am and head home around 4 pm. during the 100 degree stuff.
Lots getting done today. Taylor's helping out too
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Carbs got rebuilt and are ready to go on the car
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Got the antenna installed. Finished getting the dash top vinyl down and then put the dash top in. When I went to hook up the speedometer I realized something was missing. I found it all the way at the other end of the tunnel
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Ugh.. I hate it when that happens.
I recently made a couple of sizeable fabrication mistakes on my build and had to remind myself that this is fun, I'm enjoying the process, it'll be so cool when it's done...
So... remember all that and know that when everyone is drooling over your fabulous car, this is one of the stories you'll be telling them and laughing about.
Hang tough, Matty! You're almost there!
Yes, you are nuts. And that's why we love you and can't wait for your next update!
And yes, I expect live, streaming video of your Octeenerfest road trip.
Got the dash top finalized and ready for the windshield to go in. Scheduled it for tomorrow.
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Cary got the hard lines of finalized on the brakes so I believe all we have left is to hook it up to the reservoir and add fluid and Bleed It
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It's going to look like a new car. Can't wait to see it.
Very nice looking.
After about 16 hours on the car yesterday I finally started making too many stupid mistakes and had to call it a night about 2:30 a.m.
This was right after I had went to put the heater leveler in and realized I put the cables in without it. So I pulled the cable out hooked it up to the heater put them back in and then realized I had the heater lever backwards
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Almost there! Go Matty!
Oh, and as always
Just finished reading the whole thread, awesome work!
Stoped at 5:00 am yesterday/this morning. Made lots of progress but I am getting very tummy.
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So the normal fuel pump on this carbureted engine has too much pressure. The pump that works best for it is not plumbed to work correctly with the access door that we put in for under the tank. So super in law went to town and fabricated me up a bracket. This guy is awesome
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Lots of help today. Mark came by and helped and getting seals done and Scott was running parts for us. thank you guys! You rock
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Engine builder came up today with the carbs and everybody helped to get the engine together and in the car
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Fuel tank is in but isn't quite sitting down far enough to where I can get the straps together think I got a fiddle with the position of the blocks to get it down all the way.
Anyway at this point everybody's gone home for the night I came home to actually eat some dinner with Shannon so she can remember who I am. None of this would be possible for me without her support
Now I'm going to head back over and work into the wee hours of the morning again trying to get this thing wrapped up hopefully in the morning we can track down why the lights are not coming on on the dash and or not getting power to important things like the fuel pump. Wish me luck.
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Sweet I love multiple choice why are there three wires for two plugs on the driver side license plate light?
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Matt: You should have one brown wire (ground) and one grey with a brown stripe wire at each light.
So your situation is pretty wack.
The power is coming in on the gray wires, so tape off if you have an extra one.
I found some weird things on my NOS 71 wiring harness when I went through it.
I think Hans had a few too many Warsteiner's when he assembled my harness the next day at the Porsche electrical department.
A few of the wires were mis-located in my ignition/steering wheel 14 pin connector and he had forgotten to run a ground wire to the gauges. It was added on on top of the wire wrapping of the main harness.
Looks like anything is possible.
As to your starting issue.
Make sure the black wire in the 14 pin connector at the engine relay panel is getting power when your key is in the run position.
On my car it's pin #8...not sure about yours.
If no power, work your way back to your ignition switch.
There is another 14 pin connector under the dash that the ignition switch/steering column hooks into.
The pin that supplies this black wire should be getting power with the key in the run position.
Obviously the ignition switch itself is getting power as your starter cranks.
Could be a bad ignition switch if the switch isn't delivering power out to the run circuit.
Figured out why the oil light wouldn't come on bulb was out even though it didn't look like it. Still can't get the fuel pump to come on with the key. Replaced the three bad relays on the board. Jumped power to the pump so we know it works. Now we're looking into the relay board itself even though it looks perfect. Any suggestions?
You could have a break in one (or more) of the copper traces on the backside of the board.
Or a problem with one of the wires coming into relay board via the 14 pin connector.
Sounds like you've ruled out the relays.
How do you know if your replacement relays are any good?
Did you pull one from a headlight motor that you know is working?
See attached diagram.
When you turn the key, you should get power at pin 86...and better have power at pin 30 as well.
A functioning relay will send the power from pin 30 out pin 87 to your fuel pump.
Some things you can check.
1) You should always have continuity from pin 87 to your fuel pump.
If not, there is something wrong with either the trace on the backside of the board from pin 87 to the 14 pin connector (possible) or a problem with the wire from the 14 pin connector to the fuel pump (unlikely).
2) You might not be getting power to pin 86.
Either a problem again with a broken trace on the backside of the board from pin 86 to the 14 pin connector or a problem from the 14 pin connector back to your ignition switch, the black wire.
Again with the key in the run position, you better have power at both pin 86 and pin 30 in the fuel relay socket.
If you do, you can narrow it down to either still a bad relay or a problem with the current path to the fuel pump (either a trace on the backside of the relay board or the wiring from the 14 pin connector to the fuel pump).
To check out the relay board you need a multimeter and the wiring/circuit diagram for the board.
Not sure if the above is good for your board? but it might be.
You go check every pin on both the 14 and 12 pin connectors with their "destinations."
You should have good continuity on everyone.
If you don't, you likely have a broken connection between a trace and a pin on the backside of the board.
This will require removing the potting, re-soldering the break and then re-potting the entire backside when complete.
I had 2 such issues on my 914-6 relay board.
Almost 5 a.m. just made it home to bed if you are asleep and then back at it to try and get it wrapped up. Still a lot to go.
Got the wiring harness done and the jumper is installed for grounding the fuel pump
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Got the seats picked up and they turned out beautiful
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Got the seat bases and Adjusters all restored with new bushings and fresh paint after sandblasting. One had a broken seat adjuster handle so I drilled that out and put in a new handle that we make
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Had lots of help "today" meeting yesterday. It's now 3 a.m. I'm just getting to bed again.
Taylor showed up to work on his car and ended up helping out on my car for the day really appreciate the help from him!
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I'll try to post as much as I can but I keep nodding off. As usual Jack was incredible help today. Here is Fab tap a tool to hold the wheel in place while you're trying to tighten up half shafts.
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Long day. As usual didn't quite go as planned.
Super In Law was with us the entire day and evening ................ Amazing
I'll let Matt give you the blow by blow.
Cary's short list :Adjust e- brakes
Torque rear axle castle nuts
Install and adjust shift linkage
Adjust brake pedal push rod
Re-bleed brakes after sitting all night
Get Matt loaded and on his way to Salt Lake City
Too tired to remember the rest
Engine builder is coming back to give the engine and carbs a little tune .............
I don't really dig the carbs too much. But the cam is pretty impressive.
1:15 am and she's loaded in the car ................
Ran into more issues. I'll let Matt elaborate.
Left Matt at the shop to load up what's left for the car. For safety's sake I suggested Matt have his son drive him to Salt Lake City and fly him home. That way Matt can unwind and sleep.
Long trip to Atlanta was cancelled because of hurricane. New destination Red Rocks, so the car came out of trailer for another day of interior work.
We left at 7pm and he still needed carpet and seats. No posts, maybe he got it done.
I went back yesterday afternoon to re engineer the 4 barrel throttle. That's covered in Matt's other thread. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=316276&view=findpost&p=2526840
Car has a 1pm appointment at Rothsport for a ride height, alignment/counterbalance.
Man, I hope you all got some sleep. But this sure is exciting to watch from this end!
Starting to forget what day it is and my name and... what were we talking about.
A lot has happened in the last 48 hours I worked on a car from most of those hours. In the wee hours of the morning trying to get packed up for the trip to Atlanta with a car that was not running because of linkage issues and still so much still to be done with the car it occurred to me that as much as I wanted to make it there it was not going to happen and it would make a lot more sense to take a running driving car to an event. Red Rocks is a lot closer and I had a blast last year so altered plans with the car back off the trailer I went to work overtime if that's possible. What's over time to 3 o'clock in the morning well I stayed up all night last night working on the car. Yes that's right zombie mechanic. It was a very surreal thing no music playing like I usually have for motivation, no two liter of Mountain Dew just working through the parts sorting things out figuring okay this goes here and seeing something else okay that goes there but I have to do it in this order and spending a buttload of time on that damn window. That is still not done
I always try and keep in mind that things happen for a reason and this is not in sequence for everything that's happened but is too cool not to share. We still have to figure out the alignment ride height and we're still having some brake issues carry in his awesomeness hold a favor at Rothsport Racing and was able to get the guys excited about the project and wanting to help on it. He was able to get me an appointment at 1 p.m. but we still needed some brake components that we're being overnighted from Eric at PMB (thank you, you rock ) so I work on the car up to the point where I get it into the trailer and load only the car and take it out there. Pick up the brake parts and head out. I get there and I'm just overwhelmed with how cool this place is but I'm so freaking tired. Taking a nap for about an hour and a half on the couch in the employee break room. I will not make it back downstairs Jeff gamroth himself is doing the clinic with the guys on the car. Pretty freaking amazing had to share this out of order. As soon as I have the time I will get more sequential build information for you.
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This is what my car was surrounded by. Place is truly amazing. Very I don't know how you get any work done at all I'd be drooling all day long. Thank you thank you thank you you are awesome and it goes without saying my project would be nowhere near the caliber it is without your guidance and assistance
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Well I need to quit screwing around and get back out to the barn and get my stuff for the car packed up so I can get on the road early in the morning 4 Red Rocks after some good sleep
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They didn't get away too early, but Matt and Shannon are on their way. They were in the Dalles at 7pm. He sounded a little more rested.
East bound and truck n.
Car looks really nice, you guys!!!!
Are you sure this isn't a reality show and we don't realize it??
Made it in to Utah and had and engine light come on in the truck and started loosing power. Limped into an auto parts store and pulled the codes. I replaced the Map sensor and the Mass Airflow sensor and reset the codes. Pulled out, still dogging out. Turned around and went to a dealership to have them check it out.
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Dealership ran Diagnostics found that the map sensor I just bought from O'Reilly was bad. Put the original one back in it reset all the codes and went and drove it out runs fine now to hook the trailer back up and get the Colorado
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Nice Dude...that's great news. Weird for sure.
Hope the rest of your trip is uneventful.
Enjoy this weekend.
Well we got the car together and running by 9/14. Made it all the way to Red Rocks classic from Oregon and the car was well received by all. As I head back to Oregon I'm going to play all the things that I still need to do the first on the list will be pulling the temporary carburetor off and going to a microsort set up.
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While we were at the hotel in Glenwood Springs a German tourist came through the parking lot and was looking at the cars. He really liked everything that was done on this car and I got to talking with him. He also has a 914 in Germany. Turns out he lives in Stuttgart and worked for Porsche for 15 years as an engineer. He wanted pictures with the car and loved the German front license plate.
So now that I have had a chance to make it back in town and get caught up on a few things I'll go ahead and get some of my backlog of postings on this build out of the way. But towards the end it got pretty crazy and a lot of things happened. So the first big thing was the engine. The engine builder got it set up with dual dellorto carbs.
But when we went to start it we still had some Gremlins to work out and he was not able to be there for the initial start.
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When we did finally get ready to start the engine we had some very unwanted excitement.
https://youtu.be/K3btzJtjZrs
Thankfully we got the fire out in seconds and there was no damage done to the shop or the car. We were able to get everything secure and get the engine running for breaking it in. Granite for about a half an hour at over 2,000 RPM. At idle it had a mechanical noise we didn't like. So we call the engine builder and had him, come back up to sort it out. At this point we were still trying to get it running for making it to Okteenerfest.
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Next morning we pulled the engine. Cary had it out in record time like 32 minutes. And they went to work operating on it trying to figure out what the noise was. They quickly figured out that only one of the flywheel bolts had been tightened. So they went to work operating on it. Given the time we had to try and have the car running he brought a backup option for induction. We pulled off the dellortos and put on his favorite option when running on sand rails. A Corvair face to mix and a large Holley 4-barrel carb.
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With the new carburetor setup on I got the engine back in the car and got it tuned https://youtu.be/OIesLy0zvO0
With the new carb setup I still needed to have linkage that would work correctly. Like Cary mentioned earlier in this thread
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The ceramic-coated exhaust looks awesome and the car sounds great with the cam and the Triad exhaust
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Installed new bushings and shifter ball cup for the side shift transmission.
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Installed an out of sight Bluetooth recover/amp 75 watts per channel. Used leftover hushmat to line the speaker pods for Better Sound. Installed a radio delete plate with a strong magnet for holding the phone and put some remaining Dash face vinyl on it to hide it from first glance so you don't notice it at first and it can be removed.
Update 2/6/19 we not carry the out-of-sight Bluetooth units https://900designs-container.zoeysite.com/out-of-sight-audio-hidden-bluetooth-receiver
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Magnet for the phone? That may have some unwanted side-effects. I don't know how it will affect the phone's circuitry and memory, for instance, and a friend of mine found that putting her phone down upside-down on an external phone battery caused it to register a bunch of "phantom taps". She believes it's due to the EMI from the battery.
So use caution when putting phones on large magnets.
--DD
Thanks Dave. The set up I am using involves a metal plate that I placed inside of the case for the phone. So the magnet is attaching to it and not the phone. It is similar to the one I use in my truck and other car for the past year with no problems.
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Got the lower dash and vents back on today
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Thresholds, inner door seal and carpet strips on.
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After mistakenly trying to tune the car at altitude at Red Rocks, we decided to tune it back the way it was at our altitude so it can actually run today. After spending a whole bunch of time we realized that Chinese relays suck the fuel pump wasn't pumping again. Probably the crappy Chinese relay again. So we'll save this for another day.
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Lookin good... sweet ride
Another (next) day. Relays checked out ok. We're going to build a tester. KISS
The problem was in the female sockets on the relay board. I'd forgot about the wiring cleanup tool I'd bought at Automotion many years ago.
Used the fan socket for an example.
But the gremlins returned, now no spark. Super In Law and Matt can dig into that.
Ignition power to the coil. No spark coming out the plug wire. Old School stuff for them to play with.
My multi gauge in my 72 will not stop flashing chair.gif
First thought was that I needed to reset the master cylinder after the breaks were done. I did that - Still flashing
I checked the switch on the emergency brake. I had connected one of the wires for the back pad light to it headbang.gif Fixed that
- Still flashing
I was blowing a fuse for the drivers side signals. After reading posts I thought this could be indicating I had an issue with lights. I tracked down the ground, fixed the problem - Still flashing
I had replaced almost all of the lights in the dash with LEDs. So after reading posts about how the flasher relay works, I swapped these 2 lights and the turn signal lights in the tac back to regular bulbs - Still flashing
Any ideas?
Have an updated in awhile but it's time to get back to work on the car. Had a issue with the paint after trying to get the car done for the Build-Off Challenge and put in a big nasty scratch on the door. Took the car back to the paint shop and Kent was gracious enough take care off all it for me. I had a couple of bubbles that started showing up in the paint as well as my scratch. Turns out they were rust bubbles coming from behind 2 were on the hood so there was some rust happening inside of the space between the inner hood and the support. The other was on the fender where the repair had been made and not properly treated inside the fender well.
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Back to the Barn again. (Middle Motors) Next up we will be pulling the engine and removing the temporary carbs that we put on it to have the car running for the Build-off deadline.
Mario will be sending me this pile of "Some assembly required"
Micro Squirt
Should get interesting
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While Matt's car is here for The Dub Shop MegaSquirt install. We'll tidy up a couple loose ends so it will be ready to roll when the MegaSquirt is dialed in.
1st. order of business is tidying up a couple wiring gremlins theft from the build off.
Left turn signals and the parking brake light had issues. With Spoke's assistance we got those cleared up. Took a bit but every thing is working. Matt is getting a new front turn signal bucket from Bruce.
2nd item. A tiny fuel drip from the gas tank.
I found a couple left overs on the large outlet pipe. The rim of an old fuel sock and what was left of a brass washer.
New nuts and brass seals installed . I've been doing a static test for 2 days. Dry as a bone so far.
3rd. Item. Four of the 6mm threaded weld nuts on the longs that bolt up the outer rocker panels had snapped off bolts.
So the snapped off bolts where drilled out and metric nutserts installed.
While the engine is out for the MegaSquirt install. I'll address the oil leaks on the engine rebuild. So for it looks like push rod seals and valve cover gaskets.
On my rebuild I used Permatex Teflon Sealant on the o -rings and I'm leak free. But I"ll go with the latest and greatest Best Practice. Dow 55.
Engines on the table and ready for the MegaSquirt install. This is going to be fun .............
Time for Matt's 72 914 to enter the 21st Century. I'm beginning the install of
MicroSquirt V3.
Verify #1 TDC
Replaced the old Alternator wiring harness with a new one with new grommets.
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Mounted the trigger wheel and crank position sensor to get things started.
But now, off to the oil leaks.
Needless to say the valve cover gaskets were leaking.
Primary leaks are from the push rod tubes. I'll tackle the left first.
Off come the rocker arms ....................
Found a couple issues. Engine has maybe an hour of total run time.
Had trouble pulling out #2 intake tube ..............
Had the same trouble putting in the #2 intake tube. The other 3 snapped right in. Then gave them a 180 degree twist.
We'll take it back out after the right side is done.
Like I've mentioned in other threads I've always used Jake's original Permatex Teflon thread sealant with no leaks. Old school guys just use engine oil. I'm not that lucky.
And I hate the old cliche air cooled engines are supposed to leak. So I'm trying DOW 55 seal lube. Looks like cold cream.
Going to be a very fast month. Get Matt ready for Route 66 and preparing the Rothsport rally cars for the Mexican 1000. Plus a Hummer service support truck, Dakar style this time. Leaving for Baja the morning of the 18th of April. The race is on ....
Nice work.
Noisy TOP SECRET day at MiddleMotors. Took the day off from Rothsport to get all the distractions out of the way.
#1 . Mounted the XL wiring diagrams onto the foam boards.
#2 . Then all the noisy stuff is cleaning parts and hardware getting ready for plating.
Taylor showed up around 1pm to make more racket in the other room. LOL.
More work on getting the oil leaks dealt with. New viton valve cover gaskets and viton push rod seals. Along with some Gasgacinch for good measure, it really didn't want to stick on the painted valve covers so Cary blasted the paint off of where it seats and will let it set up for a few days until we get back to the shop to get some more work done.
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Have not been able to find to many photos of the micro-squirt components installed on a 914 so I will try and get them documented here for my 1.7 engine.
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I am going to do a little cutting and pasting from the Dub Shop on this rather than trying to relay the same info:
CLT sensor (Coolant temp sensor)
The reason it is called a coolant temperature sensor is that it is actually a GM sensor for measuring coolant temp on a water cooled vehicle. Since our VW’s are air cooled we will be using it for our head temp sensor. This is the sensor that will tell the computer when the engine is cold and when to activate warmup enrichments etc. It is the single Brass lug with a flying lead. I like to place this on the hot cylinder #3. The cylinder head tin bolt works great. NOTE: This is not an actual head temp sender. It will run approximately 50% less than actual head temp but will provide the temperature curve for hot and cold starts as well as the proper warmup enrichments.
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We did put the stock Cylinder Head Temp Sensor in its place to plume the hole but I don't think we will be using it. Any advice you have would be appreciated
We started mocking everything up so we can get the wiring, fuel lines and vacuum lines set up. We will have to take the throttle bodies off to put the engine back in the car.
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Fuel Rail on the Injectors in the Throttle Body on the Intake Manifold
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There is a retainer for the injectors that all slides in to a groove at the top of the injector and bolts on to the bottom of the Fuel Rail. It took a little work with the dremmel tool to get them all the way on without forcing them out where they would not line up with the holes in the Throttle Body, but it was pretty close.
There is a throttle body fuel rail bracket that still needs to go on but I need to drill a hole for the bolt where it mounts into the intake manifold
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O2 sensor installed in Triad Exhaust.
Dub shop:
Bosch LSU4.9 Lambda Sensor
Description
The newest generation of oxygen sensors are called wideband oxygen sensors. They provide a precise indication of the exact air/fuel ratio, and over the broadest range of mixtures. The Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor is a 5-wire sensor that reads oxygen in much the same way as a traditional oxygen sensor. but it uses the latest "planar" construction with a special two-part sensing element to measure how much oxygen is in the exhaust. The Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor has a response time of less than 100 milliseconds to changes in the air/fuel mixture, and reaches operating temperature of 700 to 800 degree Centigrade (1,400 degree F) within 20 seconds or less using its internal heater. This is nearly twice the operating temperature of a conventional oxygen sensor.
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We started working on a mount for the Wasted Spark Coil Pack and the Map Sensor. We will get more of this figured out Tuesday night along with the position of the arm for the Throttle Cable.
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Very cool set-up and work.
Enjoyed chatting with you this weekend. Let me know if you have any other questions.
After taking a few days to absorb the work we did last week I'm trying not to over think this deal. At times one feels there isn't enough info. But the more I read less is more. This Dub Shop kit seems to be Plug & Play, other than power to the Ecu and the fuel pump. In my mind I've been trying to run the fuel pump off the relay board. I'd like to keep the fuel pump on a relay and fuse. But with all the problems we've had with poor quality round relays I think I'll pass.
At the same time I'd like to fuse or circuit breaker the power wires off the battery. I love the circuit breakers we've got from Tuthill for the rally cars, but they're a little a little to big. I'm still surfing the web. I want a unit that I can put in all cars. But it has to be sanitary.....................
Short term I'll use inline ATC fuse holes.
Spoke to soon ................
We'll need to install two relays, power and fuel pump. Plus build a ground and 12v harness. The MicroSquirt harness is primarily signal and control wiring.
OK....this looks "dangerous."
Onto to blending the 914 ignition cable into the MicroSquirt cable.
The Microsquirt cable is taped to the table at the approximate lengths. Struggling a bit with TMI. Some data says power the Hall trigger with 5 volts. Others say TPS and Map only get 5 volts. Then which sensor wire do I use. It give me 4 to 6 choices.
We're going with 12 volts. The Dub Shop says his is 12volt. As for the signal, we're going with the VR1+, pin #32. Still reading .......
Here's the final layout with the chassis ignition integrated on the right.
Waiting for the relays and new fuse panel to arrive Monday. Then onto 12 volt supply for the injectors and added grounds.
Note : Not using OPT 1 & 2, VR1 only for Hall.
Next onto the crankcase and fuel line venting design. This is a head vented 72 1.7.
I surely don't want it to look like an Octopus. LOL.
I'm thinking maybe a Tangerine catch can. With only the evap going to one of the air cleaners.
Time to get Matt on the road. I'm back from Baja with a 1st Place trophy. Mission accomplished. On leaving yesterday I had Scotty install the new ends on the spark plug wires.
Here he is prepping the connector prior to crimping.
He uses old school MSD crimpers, non ratcheting.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-170037/overview/
For the most part the day was a big turd. NAPA couldn't come up with the right front rotors for my Powerstroke.
But I did get my order of terminal blocks into their storage location.
Here is the one we'll use inside the D-Jet ECU box.
After a 30+ day break I'm back to Matt's MicroSquirt install. We're making an attempt to kind of hide the 21st century components to some degree. At least the mondo wiring harness. So must of the wiring connections will be hidden in the old D-Jet ECU box.
The wiring of the box has begun. All individual components will be fused.
We found one terminal block that would have eliminated the jumpers. But it wasn't robust enough.
Still working thru my sleep deprivation from the Mexican 1000 Rally, but it's getting better day by day. Up at 5am and can't wait to get back at it. I think I've been wiring since 3am in my dreams.
Here it is wired up ..............
The box is tall enough to allow for the wires to arc and dress out real nice.
If we do a few more of these we'll have some stickers made to call out the fuses. Both inside and out.
After lunch we went after the prepping the engine for re-installation.
Gave the fan a good cleaning at Rothsport with the soda blaster. Then Matt gave it a couple coats of clear. But don't forget the replace the timing marks. Both factory and the outside rim.
After the mock-up was done I put some work into the ECU boxes. Painted it and then insulated the inside then added a rubber sheathing to help keep any water out of the box.
Starting to look like a V2 rocket (Mark )
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Pulled the tachometer and sent it off to Palo Alto Speedometer (thanks Eric Shae for the advice) to get an upgrade so that it will be able to use the signal from the microsquirt. Now if I could remember what he said about needing a diode somewhere for some resistance Eric
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The work continues. Installing fuel lines and fuel pressure regulator.
Lots of engineering along the way. We want to be able to replicate what we've created.
nice, very clean and neat! Cary what kind of coating is on the Triad exhaust in the background? I was considering a ceramic coating of some kind to put on mine as well.
Phil.
I believe it's ceramic. We'll have to wait for Matt to chime in. Both he and Doug outsourced some items for ceramic coating.
Tuesday was going over the harness one more time before it goes into the engine bay for harness mock up. I'm making sure I have all the wiring I need to integrate the Innovate LC-2 into the harness, it too is going into the ECU box. This is definitely not plug and play. While I was doing that Matt was upgrading the fuel lines to SS and AN fittings.
I climbed up on the engine rack and extracted an engine ground off one of my engines.
I'd like to find find/purchase 5 more to send out for plating.
Then I'm not real crazy about the evap lines going into the throttle body top. So I had Matt pick up some pipe thread taps so I could tap a hole in the stack plate. Should be Tight & Tidy.
Then onto NEW parts. Matt bought a set of NEW Porsche Classic half shafts.
Installed the outer hubs and torqued them down so we can safety wire them today.
That hub will be painted blue and added to the fixture bin. Got lots ........
Fuel line didn't arrive last night. So theres a change in plans. After a little shop housekeeping the engine is going in without half shaft and fuel lines so I can mock up the harness break outs and shrink tubing. I'm going to time it. LOL.
Few more of our new parts going onto the engine
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Alternator and belt installed and adjusted. New alternator inspection covers back on.
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Cary's handiwork on the evaporation line fitting and the dressed vacuum line for the throttle body
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Fitting the air/fuel monitor/controller in to the original ECU box along with everything else. Ready with a plan for tomorrow. Adjust the wiring harness with today's fitment info
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Love it! Going to be very tidy and stealthy all hidden in the stock cover. Great work, as always.
Really enjoying following this build. Great work!
My only addition for yesterday .............
914 Rubber's pre drilled CV bolts safety wired. Outer on the bench.
I feel like I've wiring in my sleep since about 4am. Going over my connection and shrink wrapping plan. Over and over and over.
Got the tach back from Palo Alto speedometer yesterday with the upgraded chip to handle the signal from the Microsquirt. Beautiful job. And a new bezel on the front. Awesome. Now I am going to have to send them the other gauges to make them look as good.
On the back there is now an extra Input for a signal. I am told that the new chip allows for 2 different inputs so one is a backup. Now I just need to see what one will work for my new system.
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Replaced the chrome trim on top of the roll bar that was scratched up by the worn out rear roof seal. The news strips went on easy and great.
Nice job on the part Mark I know that they were a pain to get perfect, but the effort was worth it in the end!
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This is what was scratching up the trim. The rubber is flattened out and broken down. Got it almost off but got stopped by a couple ove very soft striped out screws.
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Realized that it would not look good for very long. So I decided to take it off and start over
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Got some resin to fix the fiberglass issues and hope to have it primed and painted with Ryno liner today
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Shot a few coats of Raptor on the roof. I am pretty happy with how it turned out. The roof was in rough shape with lots of cracks and chips. This coating is a bed liner application that is probably stronger than the original roof.
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Got the passenger side door competed with new seals and a new door card
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Added new air deflectors to help cool the motor.
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Looks good, Matt. Well worth the extra effort and time/money.
I'll bet you can't wait to drive it.....?
Got the new SS fuel lines in. Yes I already had them in but these are high pressure lines for Fuel Injection. Thanks Mike Warhurst
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Cleaned up and reinstalled the rain tray drains
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Restored the grills with 914rubber paint and rubber trim
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Finished restoration of the roof and added all new seals
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Got some work done on the engine deck kid. Modified the hinges to make it easier to get it on and off the car
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Went to install the threaded rod for the rain hats and found that the bracket that holds the air temp sensor is not positioned quite right and I broke th je tip of the sensor
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How about the left front turn signal bucket ?
Got the new tires in and on the wheels. Now I need to polish them up and get the fender liners installed so they can go back on. Debating if I want to have the black on the wheels but I am considering doing it in plasti dip so I can remove it if I change my mind.
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Cleaned the rest of the wheels today but haven't polished them yet.
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Took the grills back off to paint underneath them.
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NO on the black background wheels.
I agree with DD. don't do it.
Got the Drivers side door all done with a freshening up the door panel and arm rests. So now everything has been replaced, rebuilt and restored.
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Open the pod bay door HAL
Built a gauge mount for the Air Fuel Gauge for the Mega squirt set up. I built this to be able to fit into the deposit box. (I will rebuild that later)
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Made a little progress today. Got the gauge I stalled along with a switch for the hidden radio and an auxiliary charging port
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The original visors were in really good shape except for the missing flap to cover the mirror. Use a little vinyl dye to freshen them up.
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Today begins the throw down ...............
* Fuel supply. Plumb in the tank, pump and filter up front.
* Matt finishes up the cockpit
* Fuel supply engine end. Get the removal connections in a nice functional location.
* Finish up the final WeatherPack connections in the harness.
* Then the easy part, install the engine, half shafts and muffler.
* Oh yeah. figure out where to route the O2 wire so engine drops are simple.
Added cable wrap straps to trunk firewall to keep the harness up and out of the way. Makes it easy to drop the engine. They'll be trimmed to fit after final harness fitting ...
Mocking up ECU mounting and cable dress out ..............
The exposed wires at the connector will get wrapped in cloth tape as a final step. Porsche style.
New high pressure fuel pump installed in the high pressure SS fuel lines. Tank back in with all new German lines for the vent lines and charcoal filter.
.
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Here's some more of Cary's handiwork on the harness prototype.
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Got the lug nuts polished and ready to go back on
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Everything is looking great! You should try to attend that 914 show thingie that they are having next
week up in northwest Oregon, I'm sure they'd like to see this car?
Got fender liners installed in the car so the wheels can go back on
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Got the wheels polished but there are still a few blemishes that could be covered up with some black paint.
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Finished restoration of the engine deck lid and installed the Rain tray. Now I will need to find a shorter air filter so the lid will have clearance to actually close
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So much has happened recently that I have not had enough time to post all of the updates. I was talking with Cary and I have put in over 200 hrs this last month. Cary has been awesome and put in a ton of hours even staying at the some with me until 3 in the morning over the weekend. Here are some more updates
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Went to go find my awesome original back pad to put back in the car and discovered that my brother had used it for making pattern updates and working of the foam for the back pad base that we are currently making. So I decided to just use the bases and put on some perlon and see how they would look
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They actually turned out better than I thought they would.
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Yes, the perlon does look good. Nice job.
Sorry I have not finished posting on the progress but Iit was another big press to get the car done in time for a Rally.
Let's see where I left off
Oh that's right, lots of late nights
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Got the interior finished up and added an amp for the sub.
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Replaced the firewall pad with a rubber backed one. I had installed the other one backwards and after the little fire on the first start last September, it was not looking as good as it could have.
Also got a catch can from Tangerine Racing and installed it on the firewall. Cary put nut zerts in so we can remove it if needed in the future.
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Final connection checks and communication with the microsquirt before reinstalling the engine for the final time. Had a few issues with confusing info and the set up. We had to change the power routing to some of the relays but Mario walked us through it and remoted into my computer to help get the initial setup done and get things calibrated.
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2 steps forward 1 step backwards. Got everything in place, but lost power in part of the relay box. Putting everything in the original ECU box sounded like a cool idea to start with. Now it is not so cool. Big PITA to get to it when needed and when we closed it back up, on of the power jumpers came loose.
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Finished getting everything hooked up mechanically so that I could take the car up to Monroe Washington to see Mario in the morning at the Dub Shop. Left about 10 PM and got in to the hotel at about 3:30AM.
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Got to Mario's shop at about 8AM and got to work. He started with getting the innovate controller calibrated and then we closed up the ECU box and hung it back on the battery tray.
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Once everything was communicating properly and in place, we started pressure testing the fuel system. Pressure on the gauge was reading about 70 PSI and we had a little leak on one of the fuel rails. Got the pressure on the regulator turned down got pulled off the fuel rail to see what the issue was. The fuel injectors had a change on them where the groove that the retaining plate holds onto does not go all the way around them so is keeping them for him being able to seat all the way. We fixed that issue and they were still leaking.
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To make a long story short we spent the next few hours sorting out fuel leaks and ended up replacing the fuel rail with one that Mario makes himself instead of the resold ones. His is way cooler and puts the fuel lines on the same side, making the engine bay tidy
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Time for the 1st start.
This is how cool it was. The throttle cables was not even hooked up, but the car started and idled on the base tube that he had loaded!!!
We did a few road tests and tunes and got the car doing well enough to be road worthy for West Coast Rally
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Made it back to the barn to get the flapper boxes hooked up as it looks like there may be rain in the forecast.
Jack made it out to the barn! It was good to see Super in-law starting to feel better.
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Guess I haven't posted in a while on the progress. We did get the car running for West Coast Rally
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Put about 1700 miles on it very quickly. Developed a fuel leak at the front.
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We pulled the tank and had it opened and re lined.
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Entered the car in the Forest Grove Concours de Elegance. Ended up taking a trophy home
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Cary and I went to Seattle for the weekend to attend a vintage aircooled show
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Wow. Lots of cool cars and congratulations on the trophy.
man that looks awesome!! which back pad is that that you installed?
So today was the day. We got the car on the dyno for some fine tuning. So here are the results. Not bad for a 1.7. So much fun to drive
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Matt, what back pad material is in your car?
Mike that was at the wheels. It's a 1.7 with a crazy radical cam.
I haven't given any updates on this car it a very long time so I thought I'd report in on how its doing.
This is my favorite car to dive and the most reliable with the micro squirter system. The only issues that I have had was with about 1,700 mikes on the build, the engine started having issues requiring a few tows back to the shop. It was something to do with the micro squirter system and it was difficult to figure out exactly what was going on. We ended up pulling the motor and replacing components like the hall sensor. It turned out to be the #1 pin on the plug (power) into the ecu. We did not put any service loops in the wire and it was being pulled on by the heat shrink on the harness. It was just enough to loosen the female side of the connection. All it took was a nanosecond of power drop and the system would go back into the start up sequence and kept cooking the waisted spark.
With that fixed it has been nothing but fun.
About a month ago I took the car down to LA and loaned the car to Sung Kang. Sung played Han in the Fast and the Furious movies. He has decided that he wants to build 914's at a Singer level and has lots of very cool ideas. He is interested in learning all about the 914's and the ethos of this "under dog"
He picked up a 914 to start learning about the cars. However it was a V8 swapped 914. I suggested that he should probably start to learn about them from a well sorted out car and then expand from there. The next thing I wanted was to help understand the 914 community and 914world.com. There are so many cool builds that have been done and there are some great people in the community who can help. So we took the car down to him and introduced him to a few people like Marty and Matt at MSDS @Maltesefalcon.
We then left the car with him for about a month.
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Last week I got a call from my friend JP in Vegas that was getting tired of the 116 days. He needed to head up to Washington to take care of some business and he was thinking about driving up the coast. Then I spoke with Sung and he had picked up another 914 and was done with my car. So I jumped on a plane and grabbed my car to drive back up with JP.
Before getting on the road, I stopped by to see Magnus Walker and we took the car out for a hot lap around downtown LA.
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Anytime we can raise the profile of the 914 to bring it further into the pubic eye, the better for us. I am tired of people asking, "Is that a Fiat?"
Mike I followed your whole ride on IG. So epic.
Thanks for sharing that.
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