The -6 came with wheel locks from Garretson Enterprises, key which came with the car is broken, now I have to get the wheels off and can't get the locks off at the rear wheels, front wheels I could open using a small chisel. Any ideas what to do? Or does someone here has a Garretson Enterprises key number 5X?
Search here. About a month ago same problem and poster bought a lock removal kit at a Flaps. Perhaps whom ever that was will also pop in.
Normally it's a cheap socket and big hammer. Hammer the socket on and turn it off.
Soak it in PHBlaster first. A really big pin spanner or a home made one ? Good luck.
the 73 i bought last january has lugnut lock each wheel. the previous owner can't find the lugnut key. I used vise grip to remove them and all succesful on all 4. apply penetrating oil to loosen the dirt or rust inside.
worst come to worst, remove the other 4 nuts and use a punch to get this one loose. Shouldn't need much if the other 4 are off.
How about J&B weld, on the face of the lock. Then spin on a lug nut, don't press out the JB, and wait....and remove the lock as part of the nut.
Maybe add a thin paper sheild to protect the threads, before putting on the lug.
Take it to a tire shop. They have tools to do this. Maybe call first to see if they can remove it for ya.
I agree with the punch and hammer once the other lugs are off, releasing the other pressure holding the wheel on. I haven't seen a tire shop have a wheel key like that in years- most of them have the universal pound on countergrip type.
Ditto on the punch.., or find someone with a welder.
Get a socket, notch in a few spots and weld into the slots. Or remove material to make the teeth/pins to fit into the holes. An angle grinder with a small diameter wheel could work.
You can use clay to get an impression for the spacing.
Get a 3/4" or 19mm holesaw, remove the guide drill bit and use the protruding stud as the guide.
You'll remove the remaining part of the lock.
Works beautifully on broken 911 alloy lug nuts with no damage to the wheel.
Might not be as easy on steel locks but certainly worth trying.
Next choice ?
Dull chisel or drift pin and BFH
I went through this two years ago on a tail dragger I had just purchased. Those wheel locks SUCK.
I was terrified to use the hole saw method. But after trying all other methods recommended (including molding the pin pattern in clay and then welding up my own key) per the majority over at Pelican, the hole saw really was the only way. One thing to note - do not take off all of the other nuts. This puts more pressure on the lock. Tighten all of the other nuts as much as you can to relieve pressure on the lock. Buy two or three different brands of hole saws, as the various tooth designs will impact how they fit over the stud. These locks drill very easily - so go slow.
I also bought a die to chase the threads on the stud afterwards - I got lucky and my local Sears had the correct one.
First one took about 45 minutes as I was so terrified. Second one took not even 10 minutes start to finish.
The company that made these locks is long gone - so there is no way to get a key. In my attempts to find a key that would work, I was informed by someone in the know over at pelican that there were thousands of combinations. If you have these on your car, get them off and throw them away.
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That is a rather nasty piece of design
I agree tighten all the others , before you do use a hard wood/brass / aluminum drift to hit the stud..yes the stud the impact will compress the threads in the lock and the chisel pin punch will work easily.
Ok, a few good tips, will try it tomorrow and hope to get the two remaining once off. Thanks to all who responded!
I hate wheel locks for just this reason ! I had a set seize on a car and the dealer had to use a special tool which had teeth in it that they hammered into it and they got them off.
Why hasn't anyone recommended this already
Just drive the wheels off of that beast!!
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