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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 01:14 AM

Okay, I guess I'll join the band wagon by starting my own thread. I hope it'll keep me motivated since I have been laggin lately. Here goes.


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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 01:16 AM

side shot


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Posted by: Andyrew Jul 29 2005, 01:25 AM

Wow, thats gona look awefully simular to the RS... Its the V8RS!!!

lol


Sick!!!!

Andrew

Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 01:29 AM

Here are some pics when she had a 13b turbo and no flares.


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Posted by: neo914-6 Jul 29 2005, 01:32 AM

Didn't you have a mattress on top of it for awhile? Removing it looks like some progress to me.

I think we wait for summer for good weather to work on the cars and then there's too many other things to do...

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 29 2005, 01:33 AM

Had a 13b turbo eh?

Someone was hankerin for TQ!!!!!!!!

Posted by: Dr. Roger Jul 29 2005, 01:37 AM

That 13B must have been fun while it lasted. I heard U can't turbo a 914.. LOL.....

Funny our V8 strings started the same way. "I'm laggin' and trying to get motivated".... Too funny.

Well I'll be checking your thread out regularly. Love the color and the rims. Are those bonded flares?

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 29 2005, 01:41 AM

btw,

Is that the radiator hose

Or a big bungie holding the rocker pannel on?


Kinda overkill.

Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 01:43 AM

my bud marco getting the flares installed.


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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 01:50 AM

Fresh 330 HO 350c.i. crate motor with RH kit installed.


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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 01:52 AM

removing battery tray and prepping engine bay.


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Posted by: neo914-6 Jul 29 2005, 01:56 AM

Got a pic of the back of the water pump? I'm curious how you oriented the pump and routed the lines...

Looks like a clean conversion!

Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 02:04 AM

Car up, motor in


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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 02:12 AM

Thanks for chiming in so fast folks. The flares were screwed, and bonded on, I think. Marco has over 15 years experience with Porsche body work. He works are C & R Porsche down near Gardena. It was really nice of him to help me out. Yeah, that is the radiator hose hangin on the door.

Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 02:17 AM

I still need a pair of these flanges for my axles. My bro tossed them out with the old junk tranny.


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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 02:21 AM

QUOTE (Neo914-6 @ Jul 28 2005, 11:32 PM)

Didn't you have a mattress on top of it for awhile? Removing it looks like some progress to me. I think we wait for summer for good weather to work on the cars and then there's too many other things to do...

you mean this one. LOL.......yes, I sleep with her.


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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 02:48 AM

Here are some radiator pics. I used Black Hamerite Rust CAP spray paint for the front. This stuff does not run, is super glossy, and is suppose to "encapsulate" rust kind of like the good stuff, POR 15. It'll look better once I get the Whole car painted. I decided to go jet black. The original yellow was fun, but having a fast, yellow car is just asking for a ticket, especially with my led foot.


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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 03:01 AM

Here's a pic which I superimposed some carbon kevlar sheeting on the dash and door panels. I should have reduce the carbon weaving to the correct size, but you get the idea. I think it might look pretty shweet. It would be a cake project since everthing is flat. We'll see


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Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 03:13 AM

QUOTE (Neo914-6 @ Jul 28 2005, 11:56 PM)

Got a pic of the back of the water pump?  I'm curious how you oriented the pump and routed the lines... Looks like a clean conversion!  :clap:

Not yet, but here is a pic from some other similar conversion. It looks just like this.


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Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jul 29 2005, 04:52 AM

is that engine bar lowered?

Posted by: John2kx Jul 29 2005, 07:04 AM

Nice clean conversion Tom! Look forward to seeing your progress.

John

Posted by: turbo914v8 Jul 29 2005, 07:27 AM

Great looking conversion nice and clean. Just curious, why did you decide to change from the turbo rotary to the v8?

Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 01:05 PM

QUOTE (turbo914v8 @ Jul 29 2005, 05:27 AM)

Great looking conversion nice and clean. Just curious, why did you decide to change from the turbo rotary to the v8?

Lack of experience with 13b motor rebuilds I guess. I just wanted to do something fresh. I just seriously hope that the v8 will be just as fast, seriously. I still have my 85 rx7 sleeper with a turbo 6port which I drive to work every now and then. It's really fast, but drinks gas really fast, too.

I really would like to see more pics of your car. I remember you mentioning that you also have a 911 13b project like my brother's.

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 29 2005, 01:52 PM

Tom if you find someone that can make some sets of those cv flanges, let me know, I need a set as well.

Andrew

Posted by: Dr. Roger Jul 29 2005, 02:09 PM

QUOTE (Andyrew @ Jul 29 2005, 11:52 AM)

Tom if you find someone that can make some sets of those cv flanges, let me know, I need a set as well. Andrew

Tom,

Ditto on the flange adaptors ..... I already have 911 axles and need a set of adaptors also.

Perhaps we can get a volume discount if they need to be fabricated.???

I also know of a few other 914 guys who need these adaptors. =-)))

One thought I had was contacting that great guy who does wheel adators. Been doing themn a long time.

Mike Mueller knows who I'm talking about... Mike?

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jul 29 2005, 02:09 PM

i thought renegade used bus axles......?

AA

Posted by: JB 914 Jul 29 2005, 02:16 PM

Hey Tom we need to hook up and meet since we are so close!!! i'm hoping to get mine to paint by the end of August. i need to drop the engine and just have not had the time to clean the garage and make room!!!

Posted by: Rotary'14 Jul 29 2005, 02:39 PM

Hi Tom,,
Glad to see you're getting some progress going on your 914! I would like to be in on a set of CV adaptors if a production run starts up. It seems to me that when a rotary 914 dies, it gets re-born as a V8. Hmm

My rotary 914 got sidetracked by a decently clean '74 914 that I picked up to satisfy my 914 driving addiction, this one will probably stay air cooled. (I hope)

Good luck with your project and keep us posted with pics!

Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 02:47 PM

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 29 2005, 12:09 PM)

QUOTE (Andyrew @ Jul 29 2005, 11:52 AM) Tom if you find someone that can make some sets of those cv flanges, let me know, I need a set as well. Andrew Tom, Ditto on the flange adaptors ..... I already have 911 axles and need a set of adaptors also. Perhaps we can get a volume discount if they need to be fabricated.??? I also know of a few other 914 guys who need these adaptors. =-))) One thought I had was contacting that great guy who does wheel adators. Been doing themn a long time. Mike Mueller knows who I'm talking about... Mike?

Only place I know that sells the flanges is Renegade @ a 160 a pair! Should we try to get a volume discount from them? Scott's a pretty cool guy maybe he'll hook us up. Alright, let's get a count of how many we need.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jul 29 2005, 02:49 PM

are they that hard to make?

why not CAD something up and use 930 CV's??? (all the rage in baja VW land.....)

Posted by: Lou W Jul 29 2005, 02:55 PM

Great looking conversion, keep the pictures coming.

Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 02:56 PM

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jul 29 2005, 12:49 PM)

are they that hard to make? why not CAD something up and use 930 CV's??? (all the rage in baja VW land.....)

I have a pair that we can use as samples if Roger's guy can make them. I think it would be quite easy to make with the right machinary.

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 29 2005, 03:08 PM

Tom, do you have the renegade setup? (ie vw Bus axles?) or....

Cus I have bus axles as well..

Andrew

Posted by: Mueller Jul 29 2005, 03:30 PM

QUOTE (Andyrew @ Jul 29 2005, 02:08 PM)

Tom, do you have the renegade setup? (ie vw Bus axles?) or.... Cus I have bus axles as well.. Andrew

how different are 911 CV's? I'll take some dimensions this weekend so that we can compare them to the bus units...

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 29 2005, 03:34 PM

Mike
Have time do do some mill runs?





914cv's have the same bolt pattern as bus cv's...

bus cv's are just shorter and thus these "adapters", or really spacers, are needed.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jul 29 2005, 03:37 PM

QUOTE (Andyrew @ Jul 29 2005, 02:34 PM)

Mike Have time do do some mill runs? 914cv's have the same bolt pattern as bus cv's... bus cv's are just shorter and thus these "adapters", or really spacers, are needed.

whats the point of using CV's the same size as 914 ones?

911 ones are bigger OD and have 6 bolts...

930 ones are even bigger.....

otherwise, is it not a lateral move to same size CV's????

Posted by: neo914-6 Jul 29 2005, 03:37 PM

I agree with Aaron, you might as well go 930. The sand rail supplier said they are cheaper and more available. They also have flanges for them.

Why don't you just use 911 input flanges on the tranny?

Last I asked Scott, he would not sell the adapters alone. You need to buy his axles...

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jul 29 2005, 03:40 PM

930 CV's are huge.....

use them and make adapters....
since they are so readily available and used throughiout the offroad industry.... why not use them....

do that or the 951 axle route....
914 coarse flanges / 951 Cv / 951 axle / 951 CV / 951 Stub / Early 911 hub (pre 74)

DONE

Posted by: Mueller Jul 29 2005, 03:46 PM

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jul 29 2005, 02:40 PM)

930 CV's are huge..... use them and make adapters.... since they are so readily available and used throughiout the offroad industry.... why not use them.... do that or the 951 axle route.... 914 coarse flanges / 951 Cv / 951 axle / 951 CV / 951 Stub / Early 911 hub (pre 74) DONE

i'm confused

so will the 930 cv's fit on regular 911 axles? , will the 930 cv's fit on bus axles? is there a difference??

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 29 2005, 03:47 PM

I'd personally love to go with whatever is easyest...

I bought bus axles with the knowlege that Renegade would be nice enough to sell adapters separately...



I took some time and looked at the bolt pattern.

THen took some measurements. I was wrong when I said they where the same size.

914 is 3.2ish inch

bus is 3.5ish inch...

The bus axles have much bigger balls and such.


And they are readily avalible.

not like there gona break though.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jul 29 2005, 03:52 PM

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jul 29 2005, 02:46 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jul 29 2005, 02:40 PM) 930 CV's are huge..... use them and make adapters.... since they are so readily available and used throughiout the offroad industry.... why not use them.... do that or the 951 axle route.... 914 coarse flanges / 951 Cv / 951 axle / 951 CV / 951 Stub / Early 911 hub (pre 74) DONE i'm confused so will the 930 cv's fit on regular 911 axles? , will the 930 cv's fit on bus axles? is there a difference??

journey into the great unknown my friend....


VW guys use em.... so i dunno. and ive seen em with custom length axles (long travel cars etc....)

ask on Pelican, along with calling some buggy shops

should know:
Car Craft in riverside CA

Posted by: lybones Jul 29 2005, 04:14 PM

QUOTE (Andyrew @ Jul 29 2005, 01:08 PM)

Tom, do you have the renegade setup? (ie vw Bus axles?) or.... Cus I have bus axles as well.. Andrew

these are renegade hp axles that I purchased from PelicanParts.com.

Posted by: neo914-6 Jul 29 2005, 04:16 PM

Call these guys:

custom flanges 914 930 VW
West Coast Core

Work: 661-726-9915
E-Mail: JjMoneyhogg@aol.com

42540 6th st east D
Lancaster, CA 93535

Note:
Porsche 930 to 914 cv flange
$130 set

930 CV $60 ea - 6 bolt
Flanges $160 + $30 core 4-5 day turn around

open 8:00 - 5:00 Mon - Fri California time
9:00 - 2:00 Sat

sells primarily on eBay

Posted by: Mueller Jul 29 2005, 04:28 PM

according to some quick reading over on STF, ex-employees of Mark Stephens ( ) and not the best quality parts and difficult to deal with......

Posted by: lybones Aug 4 2005, 10:06 PM

My brother inlaw found my flanges! He was sorting out his new garage and found them. He said he must have removed them before he tossed the junk tranny. I'll be getting the axles, radiator hoses, and carb hooked up this weekend. I guess bitching about something all the time to someone works after all.

Posted by: lybones Aug 18 2005, 01:49 AM

Finally had a chance to install the axles. and radiator hose


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Posted by: lybones Aug 18 2005, 01:50 AM

right


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Posted by: lybones Aug 18 2005, 01:53 AM

going to setup the carb next. Anybody have any tips on Edelbrock performer carb linkage setup?


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Posted by: John2kx Aug 18 2005, 03:54 AM

Tom,

Page 6 and 7 of Roger's v8 thread should give you some ideas of how to connect throttle.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=33301&st=100

John

Posted by: lybones Oct 12 2006, 04:48 PM

back half of exhaust system getting welded up.


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Posted by: lybones Oct 21 2006, 01:35 AM

After a long dry spell with the project, I have finally setup the carb, finish welding the exhaust and cranked up the motor.


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Posted by: lybones Oct 21 2006, 01:47 AM

I couldn't believe how much valve train chatter I got when first starting up the motor . I was shocked when I opened up the valve covers to find out all the valves were super loose (this is a brand new gm crate motor). After a quick valve adjustment, I then can actually start hearing other noises like minor exhaust leaks coming from the header that needs to be addressed.

Posted by: Mr.C Oct 21 2006, 07:22 AM

Were the lifters pumped up? Reason I ask is I made a mistake once while working on a 289 that sat for a long time with that circumstance. On initial start up I got the loose rocker syndrome and tightened them up. Well the lifter hadn't pumped up yet and I created a whole lot of problems.

Posted by: 914-8 Oct 21 2006, 09:14 AM

yeah, id be careful that the lifters hadnt pumped up yet.

what procedure did you use to adjust the valves?

Posted by: lybones Oct 21 2006, 09:02 PM

I don't know what "pumped up" quite means. I let the engine run for at least half an hour before driving it and the whole time the motor was rattling. Two mechanics who saw it said the valves were loose. I adjusted the valves by turning the motor until each valve spring was wide open then tightened the nut down until the push rod was snug, but can still spin. I did this for all the valves. The engine sounds good now. I hope I did this is right cause you guys are freaking me out now.

Posted by: messix Oct 21 2006, 09:36 PM

to adjust hyd. lifters , tighten till you feel restistance while trying to spin the push rod, then thighten 3/4 turn more.

Posted by: 914-8 Oct 21 2006, 11:12 PM

I've adjusted more valves on 914 and 911 engines than I can remember, but am no expert on Chebby valve adjust, BUT . . .

I'm not sure you've done yours right. Maybe because I'm misunderstanding what you're saying. Anyways, here's my understanding how it's done (I'm assuming you have hydraulic, not solid, lifters):

Engine Running Procedure

1. They are often adjusted while the engine is fully warmed and RUNNING! The procedure is to loosen the valve until you start to hear it clatter, then tighten it down just until the clatter stops. Then turn it a quarter to half turn more.

I've tried this. It was difficult. I used a cut open valve cover to try to contain the mess, but it was still messy. And hot. And hard to hear when it start to clatter and stops. Seemed very random to me!

Engine Not-Running Procedure

1. Unlike on Porsches, the valves on the SBC are adjusted when the engine is HOT! Not cold. This is impt because the lifters need to be pressurized with oil for the adjustment to be correct. If the engine is cold, it is possible that a lifter (or lifters) have bled off pressure, and your adjustment will be incorrect).

2. You turn the engine until the valve is fully OPEN. That means the valve spring is fully COMPRESSED. Your post suggests to me you adjusted when the valve was fully CLOSED ("I adjusted the valves by turning the motor until each valve spring was wide open").

3. Then you loosen the rocker until the pushrod is loose. Spin the pushrod between your fingers while at the same time tightening down the rocker, just until you start to feel resistance. That resistance is the pushrod just starting to push down on the hydraulic lifter. Then tighten the rocker nut down 1/8 to 1/2 turn more.

There may be other ways that work, but those are the two that I know of.

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 22 2006, 12:32 AM

My dad likes to do it with the engine running.. loosen till the pushrods loose.. then tighten till it stops an go 1/2 more.


He does some other stuff as well.. but I cant remember, he's the expert..
Gets em done fast.. lol

Posted by: Twystd1 Oct 22 2006, 12:49 AM

I was freaking out when I read how you adjusted your valves.

That is an IN-CORRECT procedure you used.

914-8 is exactly correct on the proper method.

ALSO: It helps if you have a set of pushrod/rocker keepers to keep the the oil from squirting
all over you and the car while you adjust them.
(these little guys snap over your rocker arms to keep the oil from squirting in your face while you adjust them)
And you can cut up a set of old stamped steel valve covers to keep the oil from going over the side of your engine while adjusting.

Aw hell... it would take me an hour to write this correctly..

Just do some net searching on the V-8 performance forums and they will have pics galore of what i am talking about.


Please don't rev the shit out of your engine till you have re-done the procedure correctly.

NOTE: Some of the LATEST crate engines that chevy sells can be adjusted cold.

Me thinks this ain't one of em...... Cause this ain't an LS engine.

Do it once... Do it right...
Regards,
Clayton

Posted by: lybones Oct 22 2006, 01:13 PM

So it sounds like I should have snug down the push rods only when the valve spring was completely compressed and not wide open? The other steps I did seems to be correct. The engine idles smooth and quiet now, but if I did this wrong should there have been any obvious signs? I'm not going to run it untill I know for sure.

Posted by: Dr. Roger Oct 22 2006, 02:00 PM

Regarding SBC's with hydraulic lifters:

I've adjusted them both cold and hot.
Mostly hot. most pro's also do it hot. The procedure is to pull valve covers, install anti-spray clips over rocker arms, then start engine.
Then loosen rocker arms, one at a time, until clacking is heard, then slowly tighten till clacking stops. At that point tighten about 1/4 turn. That's it. do all 8 and you shoudl have a quiet engine. warning do not play around with over tightening rockers as you could find yourself pushing a valve into the top of your piston. if you have any doubt about this find a friend who's done it before and watch over his or her shoulder. =-)

Cold adjustment.
do not start engine. valve covers off. bring each cylinder up to TDC when the spark is going to fire. this ensures that both valves are fully closed and lifters are not coming in contact with cam lobes. back off rockers, one at a time, until you can feel some play. then tighten till there's no play. at that point tighten only 1/4 turn more. no worries about the valves opening as the lifter springs are much weaker than the valve springs and this is where the slack is taken up in the valve train and how hydraulic valves keep quiet.

I used the cold adjustment method on the latest engine and I still haven't needed to touch my rockers. still runs quiet.

if the rockers are too tight the valves won't close completely. you'll get a missfire.

sounds like you got it but i thought i'd throw my $.02 in case there's need for clarification.

looking good.

Posted by: Heeltoe914 Oct 22 2006, 02:06 PM

I saw this car on Sat, and it did sound like the vavles may be a little tight after reading this. Tom the stumble could very well be from this adj, not being correct. Good job on your work, Thanks for the clutch package.

Posted by: lybones Oct 22 2006, 05:24 PM

Thanks everyone for chiming in. I think I have enough feedback to actually get a professional to adjust my valves just to be sure it's done right. In the mean time I still have to extend my shifter rod an inch and look into why my tranny is stuck in 4th gear( cannot budge the gear selector by hand at all). Lee, I will first do what you had mentioned by opening the selector cover the see if the fork is out of alignment. I hope the clutch works great for you.

Posted by: Twystd1 Oct 23 2006, 08:54 PM

I just realized your in garden grove.

When ya want me to come over and adjust your valves?

Clayton

Posted by: 914-8 Oct 23 2006, 09:52 PM

You wanna do mine, too??

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 23 2006, 10:02 PM

lol..

Rogger nailed it.. It takes what, 5 mins to adjust the valves?

Posted by: Twystd1 Oct 23 2006, 10:21 PM

Hell,

Put both cars in the same place..

We can adjust em fast.

All we need is the clips.
(I think I have em... haven't looked in a year or so)
(They B cheap at flaps)

And a stock valve cover we can cut up.

If ya don't want any oil to spill onto the side of the block and headers.

Engines with hi flow and/or hi pressure oil pumps will flow enough oil to make it spill over the lip on the heads. Then the oil drips over the lip and goes all over the block and headers..

I hate adjusting valves while I am eating oil smoke.

Once you have seen it done on one or two valves. You will know for the rest of your life.

AND.. you may need to re-set your idle when done. Valve adjustment will occasionaly make the idle go up or down. As the idle vaccum is now changed. So the carb registers the idle mixture differently.
Just turn a screw to fix..!!! No probs.
Easy..Peasy....

C

Posted by: 914-8 Oct 23 2006, 10:27 PM

I have a cut open spare valve cover. But not the clips. I tried adjusting while running, and it got messy so I stopped. I also had a hard time "hearing" it. I guess from lack of experience with it.

So I adjusted them using the "engine off" method that I described earlier in the tread. I think I did it right, but wouldn't mind a check by someone with experience.

Valve adjust party!!!

Posted by: lybones Oct 24 2006, 01:11 AM

You guys are serious, huh? Let's do it!

Posted by: Twystd1 Oct 24 2006, 01:25 AM

I'm not messing with you.

Lets get it done. AND we have a cut valve cover to use..YEAHHHHH.

Are either one of you guys using stud girdles on your valve train?

Or are either one of you using roller rockers?

Are either one of you using RHOADES style anti-pump-up lifters?

If so. What is your setup..

And yes is makes a differance.!!!!!!!!!

Clayton

Posted by: lybones Oct 24 2006, 10:34 AM

I would be forever greatful if you can get this new motor dialed in just right for me. I know for sure I don't have roller rockers. I don't know too much about small blocks yet, but here is a description of my crate motor:




part number: CE01
cubic inches: 350 Cubic Inches
liters: 5.7 Liters
horsepower: 330 Horsepower @ 5000 RPM
torque: 380 ft/lbs @ 3500 RPM
compression ratio: 9.1 to 1
block: 4-bolt, cast iron, 4.000" bore
crankshaft: Cast nodular, 3.480" stroke
head, chamber size: Vortec, cast iron, 64cc chamber
valve sizes (i/e): 1.940" / 1.500"
camshaft lift (i/e): 0.435" / 0.460" hydraulic
cam duration (i/e): 212 / 222 degrees @ 0.050 lift
warranty: 1-Year limited warranty


Brand New Chevrolet 350HO, 350 cubic inch, 330 horsepower Crate Engine
This is a Brand New 350 cubic inch small block Chevy crate engine that pumps out an honest 330 horsepower. With it's 4-bolt main block, nodular iron crankshaft, PM steel connecting rods and light but strong cast aluminum pistons, this engine screams durability. Add to the strong foundation a pair of 64cc Vortec cast iron cylinder heads and a dual pattern camshaft with just a bit of a "lopey" idle, and you've got the muscle car small block that you've been looking for. Dressed to impress with chrome valve covers and timing cover, this engine will look great between the fenders of your favorite street rod, muscle car, or grass roots racer.
The cylinder heads on this great little performer use 1.94" intake valves and 1.50" exhaust valves that are sprung with 1999 L31 valve springs. The 64cc combustion chambers yield a healthy, but streetable 9.1 to 1 compression ratio.
The camshaft is a modern dual pattern interpretation of the old '65 to '67 Corvette camshaft. But with more lift and duration on the exhaust side, it does a better job of clearing exhaust from the combustion chamber. We also decreased duration and lift ever so slightly on the intake side to build more cylinder pressure. The result is a camshaft that makes great torque and horsepower with the 350 HO's 9.1 to 1 compression ratio.



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Posted by: Twystd1 Oct 24 2006, 05:02 PM

Saturday is Ron's BBQ and swap meet. So thats out.

Sunday is a possibility.

C

Posted by: 914-8 Oct 25 2006, 12:31 PM

I could meet you guys in Costa Mesa or Garden Grove (pref. CM) on Sunday, but it would have to be in the morning, the earlier the better. I can bring my cut valve cover. I think we need the clips, though, to keep the oil down, it was messy even with the cut valve cover.

No roller rockers for me, don't know what kind of lifters, and have no idea what "stud girdles" are (although that sounds like kind of an oxymoron!).

Let me know if you guys really wanna do it.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Oct 25 2006, 12:51 PM

Tom,

I see 911 sport mounts and possibly NO washers or factory 914 safety catches on top of them. You cant run them without something on top of the bolt. It will pull through and leave the tranny dragging and your dizzy cap snapped off.

I'm surprised you went down the cheap radiator path



B

Posted by: lybones Oct 25 2006, 02:54 PM

I'm glad you brought up the 911 sport mounts. I have been concerned about my tranny being mounted correctly ( for v8 conversions). The tranny seems to be much higher which causes the motor to seem to rake down forward more than I would like and the dizzy just looks a little too high up. Is this because of the 911 sport mounts? What should I do?

As for the radiator setup. It was definately cheap (130.00 for the radiator and 100.00 for the Spal fan), but it's all aluminum and holds the temp below 190. This was the setup I used for my previous rotory conversion. For now, I'm satisfied with the setup.

Posted by: lybones Oct 25 2006, 02:58 PM

I don't think I should be driving the car in its condition unless I can fix the tranny problem, so we can do it at my place or I can try to figure out getting the car wherever.

In either case I'm in.

Posted by: Mike D. Oct 25 2006, 05:34 PM

SUNDAY is Rons Swap. so you can fix it on Sat. and bring in to the swap Sunday Oct. 29th. and then you can adjust them again so we can all see how it is done.

Posted by: 914-8 Oct 25 2006, 07:00 PM

Saturday is even better for me.
I can meet at your house in GG, if that's ok with Clayton.
The earlier in the morning, the better for me.
You can see how my V8 and trans are mounted, if that would help with your issue.
Let me know, either here or by PM, if you guys want to do it.

Posted by: lybones Oct 25 2006, 07:08 PM

Saturday sounds good, I will PM you guys.

Posted by: Twystd1 Oct 25 2006, 07:37 PM

I'm in for Saturday...

Where and what time?

C

Posted by: 914-8 Oct 25 2006, 07:57 PM

Tom's in GG. He's ok with any time.

What's the earliest you can make it? 9 am ok?

You name the time, and we should be set.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Oct 26 2006, 11:14 AM

Hi Tom,

Everything is mounted OK, you just missed one piece that is designed to "catch" the tranny if the mount fails. The stock mounts have two "raised" area's to catch a special steel "washer" << for lack of a better term.

If you drop the rear of the tranny any farther, you'll have shift linkage issues.

I'll be up this weekend also.

Tell me when and where.



B

Posted by: lybones Oct 26 2006, 01:15 PM

Just sent you guys a PM.

Posted by: Twystd1 Oct 28 2006, 05:22 PM

I am over here at Tom's house having a good old time.

Two V8 teeners.

And one of em won't run unless we set the valves EXACTLY 3/4 turn past no clacking of the rockers.. WEIRD...!!!!!!

Had to set em three times to find the magic combination.

Now we have a tranny stuck in fourth gear...

Pulling the nose cone to see if we can UN-Lock it.

If you guys have any ideas on unlocking the trans...

PLEASE chime in...!!!!!!!!

Clayton

Posted by: Twystd1 Oct 28 2006, 07:34 PM

Well, after a long day, we decided to yank the tranny out. I 'll be bringing it to Thomas tomorrow to have it checked out at the swapmeet in Riverside.

Brian, It was great having a chance to check out your v8 teener (nice!).

Thanks again, Clayton, for your help and input today.



Tom


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Posted by: 914-8 Oct 28 2006, 08:39 PM

Wow, 2 more super-cool 914'ers!

Thanks Clayton for the help!

Thanks Tom for the pizza and for letting us use your garage! Good to see you got that trans out ok. Hopefully it doesn't need too much work. Your car is gonna be awesome when it's done!

Was a fun afternoon hanging out with a couple of other gearheads. Very cool. Hope to see you again soon.

Posted by: JB 914 Oct 29 2006, 10:25 AM

i'm sure Thomas will fix that Tranny for ya! I trusted him with mine!

Posted by: lybones Oct 29 2006, 11:30 PM

Thanks, Joe for the positive vibe. I have no doubt that thomas will get the box back together for me. Now only if I can find him a taller fith gear to pop in for me.

Posted by: lybones Nov 6 2006, 04:22 PM

Got my rebuilt tranny back from Thomas last week. What a bute! Just waiting on a new clutch fork bushing before it goes back in.


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Posted by: lybones Nov 6 2006, 04:28 PM

In the mean time, here' s my attempt at making a GT engine lid which I've always thought looks pretty trick . I was able to get a hold of an extra engine lid and grill from Mr. Bruce at the riverside flesh roast and swapmeet.


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Posted by: type47fan Nov 6 2006, 05:20 PM

Tom,

That's great! What was determined to be the cause of the lock up?

Here's a picture of the water temperature gauge I'm using in my V8 conversion, that we talked about at the roastmeet. It matches the rest of the instruments. . . .

Thanks,


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Posted by: drive-ability Nov 6 2006, 09:20 PM

Tom,
Looks like your doing a fine job, how many cars start with a 4 cyl-air cooled engine then a rotary-turbo and then a Chevy V8? Well not many! We have something in common, I sold my 93 Rx7 rotary twin turbo to fund my V8, 914. The reason was I didn't like the power delivery aspect's of the Rx7, no torque and too much heat from the turbos bla bla bla. Looks great

Posted by: lybones Nov 7 2006, 01:14 AM

That gauge looks really nice and definately matches the other gauges. I'm still thinking about getting the quad gauge from north hollywood speedometer. I just heard it's a little costly.

http://www.nhspeedometer.com/914/quadruple.jpg

Thomas found out that a selector rod was not seated incorrectly which he offered to put back for me, but I just opted to have him rebuild the whole tranny for me since the second gear was shot. He did a great job by the way.


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Posted by: 914-8 Nov 7 2006, 02:55 PM

Hey Tom, looks like you're making a lot of progress, the car is all primered already?!? When do you think you'll get the paint done?

Is it driveable yet?

Posted by: lybones Nov 7 2006, 03:48 PM

I did a quick primer job on the car just to clean it up a bit. It still needs alot of fine tuning and work, but I plan on taking her to my brother in-law's body shop for the whole stripdown, prep, and paint (black) some time in the near future.

I test drove the car today!, finally after 3 years of off and on work!

I must give thanks to many of the guys on this club forum for the help and advise.

Here are some videos of the test run: (still have to prime the bumper).

(youtube takes a while to process)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VEdcLDEw7A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajXRdhBpcy4

Posted by: lybones Nov 7 2006, 11:22 PM

I made a custom open valve cover to perform a valve adjustment with motor running.

It worked great combined with valve adjustment clips. NO MESS!


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Posted by: lybones Nov 7 2006, 11:42 PM

nice ass


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Posted by: 914-8 Nov 7 2006, 11:52 PM

on all of it!

Can't wait to see it when the paint is done.

Posted by: lybones Nov 7 2006, 11:53 PM

nice suede steering wheel I purchased from a member at the riverside 'fleshmeet'.





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Posted by: lybones Nov 13 2006, 11:27 PM

stainless steel exhaust tips


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Posted by: lybones Nov 13 2006, 11:32 PM

gt lid completed


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Posted by: lybones Nov 13 2006, 11:45 PM

homemade leather shift boot from some junk around the house.


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Posted by: lybones Nov 13 2006, 11:58 PM

crossdrilled rotors with 911 "s" aluminum calipers


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Posted by: Dr. Roger Nov 14 2006, 12:14 AM

Look out So Cal! another beast is on the road!

Watching those vid's put a big smile on my face. Is it awesome or what?


Black is beautiful, isn't it?

Great work.

Posted by: neo914-6 Nov 14 2006, 12:16 AM

Nice stuff and good local support. Send Clayton over here please, my V8 engine needs tuning...

Got to get back to my V8 before it becomes a parts car! I robbed the Optima for my van and some seals for neo914

Posted by: lybones Nov 14 2006, 12:38 AM

yeah, I just love the power, but I'm still breaking in the motor since it's only got about
about 50 miles on it.

Black is definately classy. BTW, I saw your paint job experiment, WOW!




Yeah Felix, Clayton is one cool dude.

Posted by: lybones Nov 18 2006, 01:51 PM

ortega highway fun run organized by Joe Sharp and Thomas!


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Posted by: lybones Nov 22 2006, 01:52 PM

recent pics


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Posted by: lybones Nov 22 2006, 02:01 PM

@u@


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Posted by: lybones Nov 22 2006, 02:02 PM

@u@


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Posted by: lybones Nov 29 2006, 10:07 PM

Just welded up some 2" muffler mid pipes which connects the headers to the 3" mufflers in the rear. This gives me the option to run a quiet system (to able a enjoy music) or a more deep toned exhaust system.


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Posted by: lybones Nov 29 2006, 10:11 PM

Here's the original 2 1/2" mid pipes I made. They both sound good, but these pipes create a deeper resonance in the cabin. No noticable difference in performance.


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Posted by: 914-8 Nov 29 2006, 10:43 PM

You're a madman with that welder!

Car looks pretty good in primer! See ya Sat.

Posted by: lybones Dec 2 2006, 04:54 AM

Can't sleep, maybe I'm too excited about manana's " crystal cove" car meet. Well anyways,today, I yanked out my rear window to tint it (low cars really get it in the eye at night ) and change out the 33 year old petrified seal. It's so easy to remove, tint (flat glass), and reinstall............wish I done this years ago.


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Posted by: lybones Dec 2 2006, 04:59 AM

Pic before tint job. I'll shoot some pics with the tinted window and tinted front windshield strip at daylight tomorrow.

BTW. the tint cost about 11 bucks at autozone (enough for rear window and front windshield strip) and the butyl tape was 8 bucks also at autozone.


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Posted by: lybones Dec 2 2006, 05:21 PM

ortega highway.


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Posted by: JB 914 Dec 2 2006, 11:51 PM

Tom,

your project is looking great. i'd be interested in talking to you about how you did the exaust. i've got to dump my current exaust since it's a 1/2 assed job and it won't work with the ceramic headers.

whatever info you can provide would be appreciated.

Posted by: lybones Dec 3 2006, 09:50 AM

Thanks for the kudos!

Do you have a pic of your headers? If they are hugger style headers, I can sell you my 2 1/2 inch mid pipes and you can just weld up some 2 1/2 " mufflers to them. I have 3" mufflers in the rears but I think 2 1/2" mufflers would sound better. Or I can just take a full pic of my exhaust system for you to see if you plan on welding one up yourself. Let me know either way.

Posted by: JB 914 Dec 3 2006, 10:55 AM

I gotta dig the new headers out of my stuff and let you know. i'm pretty sure your mids will fit. if you have a full pic of the exaust just post it.

thanks

what color are you painting your car?

Posted by: lybones Dec 3 2006, 01:29 PM

Black

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Dec 3 2006, 06:34 PM

Tom............Now that you have been driving the car for a few weeks how does it compare with the rotary that was in the car??

Looks good can't wait to see it in black.

Posted by: lybones Dec 3 2006, 10:28 PM

That's funny you asked. I've been getting a lot on this subject. My turbo rotory setup seems a lot faster untill I got the v8 motor dialed in. The turbo 13b-rew was pushing about 350+ horses. The v8 on the other hand has no turbo lag so they both have there plusses. I love the throttle response of the v8 at ANY rpm range, but I loved the smooth gut wrenching pull of the turbo rotory once it got on boost pulling all the way to 12,000 rpms. Fuel comsumption are also quite similar. I just saw my brother inlaw's 3rd gen rx7 project yesterday. It has a 20b motor (3rotor) with a single t-04 turbo setup. Man, the 650 horses sounds so sweet.

Posted by: lybones Dec 6 2006, 12:24 AM

A coolant hose popped off while on the freeway last night and I had to tow the car home. Today I filled the whole system with distilled water and a bottle of "hyper lube" water wetter with anti corrosion. This stuff dropped the temp down 5 degrees to 180! I'm making sure all the clamps are on TIGHT this time.

Posted by: 914-8 Jan 8 2007, 09:36 PM

Hey Tom, you still around?

Any progress on the car?

Posted by: drive-ability Jan 9 2007, 12:11 AM

Sorry to here that, I have had 3 tows, one when I broke my transmission mounts, 2 when I bent the water pump impellers, 3 when my throw out barring tangs snapped off. No fun!
I went through things like that, I didn't blow any hoses off but did bend up a water pump impeller. I decided to go with no thermostat and use a re-stricter along with aluminum peaces to cover the radiator. This way I can keep it around 180 and let the fans cool it down. In Ca. now I have to cover over 1/2 the radiator to keep it around 175 to 190. I am going to install a electric bypass soon to regulate the temp. If I didn't have the radiator covered it would run below 150 on the freeway.

Posted by: Andyrew Jan 9 2007, 12:46 AM

Tom, your double clamping all the hoses.. right?

if not. DO IT.

Posted by: lybones Feb 7 2007, 11:31 PM

Wow!, 150 degrees is really cool, even on the freeway. Where are you reading your coolant temp at?

Posted by: lybones Feb 7 2007, 11:34 PM

That's great advise and I will do it for sure. Thanks

Posted by: wbergtho Feb 8 2007, 01:24 AM

That looks like the A.I.R. rear deck lid w/ integrated spoiler???

Posted by: jd74914 Feb 8 2007, 09:04 AM

With the top off can you see out of the tinted back window?

Posted by: lybones Mar 5 2007, 11:23 AM

The rear deck is one piece FG lid purchased from Rennspd.com






It is a little hard to see out the back with the top off, but you can just stand up and turn your head.

Posted by: ernestj911@gmail.com Jun 18 2007, 10:43 AM

Tom
Your v8 has turned out great. Do you have any more pics or videos to post?

Give us an update!

Posted by: JB 914 Jul 7 2007, 11:16 PM

Tom, you still got the mid pipes? i had to go with headman hugger style headers. maybe i can come by some time? assuming you still have them.

Posted by: lybones Aug 29 2007, 08:20 PM

She's Back!, finally. Ended up going with a 4 stage PPG chrome yellow with Orange pearl over white base coat.

Posted by: jd74914 Aug 29 2007, 09:12 PM

That is beautiful Did you spray the paint yourself?

Posted by: JB 914 Aug 29 2007, 09:19 PM

Hey Tom looking good PM me your brothers # and address. can i come by and see it?

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Aug 29 2007, 09:51 PM

Damn.........Looks great

Bob

Posted by: drive-ability Aug 29 2007, 09:55 PM

Beautiful !!!

Is the rear bumper a standard 916 ?

Posted by: lybones Aug 30 2007, 01:12 AM

Thanks folks. I had the work done by Kevin, my brother in-law at his body shop.

I had the rear targa molding shaved, rear spoiler cropped, targa top smoothed down for paint, and full rubber front windshield rubber installed. There was a lot of issues with the fiberglass components that I purchased from www.rennspd.com. Never buy from this guy, Nothing I purchased from him fit properly and had the be really reworked to fit. Very poor workmanship. Over all I am quite pleased with the work Kevin did.

Give me a call, joe when you are around my "hood". You are welcomed to take a look in person any time.


Here's Kevins Body shop info:

P.S. His shop isn't the cleanest, but the work is great.



K&E auto body
3701 Tyler Ave
El Monte, CA 91731
(626) 444-5575

Posted by: Rand Aug 30 2007, 01:09 PM

Wow.

Black, and that tone of yellow are my favorite two colors on a 914. Love the shaved targa lips - I'm doing that too. And black windshield rubber & side-window bars with all the shiny trim gone... Looks absolutely awesome! Nicely done.

Posted by: 914-8 Aug 30 2007, 01:56 PM

Looks great, Tom!

Posted by: KELTY360 Aug 30 2007, 02:52 PM

Can you say BADASS!

Great choice on the yellow. This guy likes it too

Posted by: jaminM3 Aug 30 2007, 04:44 PM

Don't get me wrong, the car looks great and the color is awesome, but didn't you say you were going to paint it black?

Posted by: lybones Aug 31 2007, 01:06 PM

The rear bumper is a 916 rear bumper designed for the 9" rear gt flares.

The front bumper is a standard fiber glass with an "Ultimate" air dam which has been cropped for better clearance.

Posted by: porschecb Aug 31 2007, 01:12 PM

Whats the plan for mirrors?

Posted by: lybones Aug 31 2007, 01:13 PM

I knew this question was coming I did want black, but after really thinking it over, I decided to stay relative to the original color. I am thinking of having the wheel centers powder coated satin black, though.

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Aug 31 2007, 02:45 PM

Don't do the black wheels...........After seeing your car yesterday,I changed my black wheels to some silver ones.

Bob

Posted by: jd74914 Sep 1 2007, 08:27 AM

Wow, another beautiful car Bob




I agree, the silver wheels look really nice . . . don't go black.

Posted by: lybones Sep 5 2007, 03:17 PM

That's a beautiful looking gt! Do you have pics with the black wheels?

I'm thinking of carbon fiber formula one style mirror on the driver side only.

Posted by: 914-8 Sep 5 2007, 10:01 PM

If you do a mirror like that, you should try cutting a piece of plexi to replace the little triangular window on the door (very easy to swap that window out), drill through the plexi and mount the mirror on that.

Posted by: lybones Sep 6 2007, 07:45 PM

I'm thinking of removing the traingle glass, but to get them drilled for the mirrors at a glass shop.