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Posted by: narino Jun 29 2022, 06:59 PM

Hi all,

I'm back to working on the forever project. I started looking over old items a nightmare mechanic did several years ago. I wanted to get your thoughts on a few items before I get in too deep.

Previous mechanic changed my CV joints. Didn't think to ever check them after the that. I took a look a few days ago and noticed the joints seem to be throwing a lot of grease. Boots looked OK though. After wiping some grease off the joint it looks like I might be missing the paper gasket. From watching Ian Karr's video on CV joints it looks like the paper gasket is thick and flush to the outside. Thoughts? See image below for reference.

Also, the CV bolt clamp plates seem to be missing. I'm sure the schnorr washer is missing as well.

Transmission - I'm still having issues with 3rd and 5th. I read you can carefully use a scissor jack between the back of the transmission (muffler off) and the body to push the tranny/engine assembly forward. I took a look and couldn't find a safe place to place the jack against the body without possibly bending something. The only thing there seems to be the edge of the heat shielding for the muffler. Has anyone done this that could offer direction? See second image below.

Because I don't trust anything this mechanic did back in the day, I'm posting the 3rd image to see if this is normal. The bottom of the transmission by the bellhousing has a small window that looks open. Is this correct, or is it supposed to be closed/gasketed?

Lastly, does anyone have a body shop in the Los Angeles area that knows 914s that they could recommend? Or can I buy some time from a local knowledgeable teener to take a look at her for me? I need help assessing the dreaded rust issue..

Thanks all!

Posted by: 914werke Jun 29 2022, 07:10 PM

CV gaskets - YES
Plates & schoore washers - YES
Install them
The trans looks to be seated & no further back than stock.
The aperture it is for sighting & is very useful when doing a valve adjust.
Check your bushing & shifter alignment other than that may be time to dig into the box.

Posted by: narino Jun 29 2022, 09:03 PM

Thank you for the reply Rich.

I'll tear these down and see if they are destroyed. Really didn't want to add more to the to-do list, but I doesn't seem I have a choice.

Posted by: narino Jul 2 2022, 03:38 PM

Got the passenger side CV joint off. Surprisingly it did have the schnorr washers. The bolts were snug tight with no brackets. They are 2" long, are these the correct length? Image below for reference.

I'm also posting images of my trailing arms. I'm concerned they are too rusty to refurbish. Anything in specific I should look at to see they are still ok?

From what I've read it's a media blast, weld any issues, powder coat, add rubber bushing, add zerk fitting, reinstall. Did I miss anything?

Thank you!

Posted by: 914e Jul 3 2022, 11:21 AM

The threaded part should be 45mm long, which is about 1-3/4" long.

It is hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like mostly surface rust on the trailing arms. I would take a wire wheel to them, if they clean up fairly smooth, they should be fine.

Posted by: narino Jul 3 2022, 11:26 AM

Thank you 914e! I'll order new bolts.

Posted by: narino Jul 4 2022, 05:02 PM

Crap. So one CV had hex bit bolts. So i STUPIDLY assumed they all had been replaced from M8 triple square to hex bit. Nope. Bad eye sight and crud convinced my eyes the outer CV to be hex. Naturally I stripped that bolt. My extractor tools didn't help, I'll need to take the axle nut off. $#$@!

Anyone have a trick to get the C-clip off on the axle end? I got one off, no issue, but the second one spins when I tap it with a flat head screw driver. Thoughts?

Thanks all. Hope everyone is having a great 4th!

Posted by: 914e Jul 4 2022, 05:40 PM

I had to look back at my old build thread. My daughter rebuilt the axle that needed cv boots a few years back. Maybe I can talk her rebuilding the other side side the transaxle is out.

I would get new C clips while you are at it at least one will end up feeling loose.

It looks she used Proto 250g retaining ring pliers.



I had the same thing happen to me, one side was hex when I removed the transaxle about 2 weeks ago. Maybe CV joint kits at one time, supplied replacement hex socket bolts. Even worse two of the four CV joint bolts were finger tight. If they had been on the other side they would have spun out. I bought replacement bolts from 914 Rubber. predrilled for safety wire.

Posted by: narino Jul 4 2022, 10:31 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=23951 finger tight CV bolts is a scary thought. Glad you guys caught that. Thank you for the pliers recommendation! Did she need the other pliers for something else on the car?

Ever take the axle nut off? Not looking forward to this. I'll pick up a 4ft pipe to put on the breaker bar for leverage. I also have a map torch just in case. After watching Ian's video I'm no feeling optimistic tho.

Thank again!

Posted by: mgphoto Jul 5 2022, 12:00 AM

Axle not so difficult, you have the correct procedure, depends on the climate the car has spent the most time.

You can use a pneumatic gun, or new battery powered impact driver (my Milwaukee 1/2 works great) to remove but not for install.
Once you break the castle nut loose, leave it flush with the stub axle, you will need to tap the stub axle out, it’s the hub and bearing you need to be careful with.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 5 2022, 03:18 AM

There are a number of people who feel that the CV joints seal better without gaskets. But in that case, they obviously have to be drawn all the way up against the flanges. Yours didn't appear to be.

--DD

Posted by: narino Jul 8 2022, 04:29 PM

I got the axles off! 1/2" breaker bar with 6ft black iron pipe for leverage, and a few rounds of PB blaster.

In looking at the CV joints only one had the concave washer that is supposed sit behind it. Anyone have some locally I could buy and pick up this weekend?

besides @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1319 anyone else carry parts? I know Dylan (chitown) sold all his 914 stuff otherwise I'd ring him.

Posted by: 914werke Jul 8 2022, 05:23 PM

https://914werke.com/shop/ols/products/schnorr-locking-washer

Posted by: narino Jul 8 2022, 05:29 PM

Hi @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=453

The washer I'm looking for sits behind the CV on the axle. #22 in the exploded diagram below.

Posted by: 914werke Jul 8 2022, 05:30 PM

The concave washer?

Posted by: narino Jul 8 2022, 06:02 PM

Yep, i need 4. Only one CV had the concave washer, might as well replace all 4.

Posted by: narino Jul 8 2022, 10:25 PM

With stub axles out, do I need to protect the wheel bearings if I try to clean that area? It's fully caked with grime.

Posted by: mgphoto Jul 8 2022, 11:55 PM

Clean with dry rags, maybe some brake cleaner, don’t douse it, be careful of the hub, if it pulls out of the bearing that means new bearing and it’s a real bitch to get it out and replace it.

Posted by: narino Jul 9 2022, 09:35 PM

Thanks for the info and heads up @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10225 .

Posted by: narino Nov 28 2022, 01:43 AM

After another long pause due to life/work, I'm ready to put the axles back in. When putting the stub axles in should I grease the spline, or use anti seize? Any helpful tips/tricks to putting it back in?

Also, in getting the driver side axle out I ended up tearing out the wiring from the reverse switch. How can I test which terminal to reconnect the wire(s) to?

Thanks all, and thank you Andy!!

Posted by: 914Sixer Nov 28 2022, 07:01 AM

I use anti seize on stub axles.

Posted by: narino Aug 24 2024, 02:39 PM

Necro-reviving my own topic.

Went to rebuild the CVs on the other axle and the inner race doesn't have a side with bevel, and I do not see obvious wear in the shape of the washer. One side has stamping marks, other side does not. Is there another tell tale sign of which side goes against the concave washer?

Also, I noticed the cage "edge" has one edge that is more flat than the other. Is the more flat side supposed to face the concave washer?

Thank you!

Side with no stamping


Side with stamping


Wider edge on race


Narrow edge on race

Posted by: narino Aug 26 2024, 11:59 AM

Monday morning bump.

Posted by: Chi-town Aug 26 2024, 09:28 PM

Side with no stamping goes to the shaft
Thinner edge goes facing out of the cup if I remember correctly

Posted by: bdstone914 Aug 27 2024, 12:04 AM

Clean the splines in the hub and stub axle before installing.
I use grease to ease the installation. I test fit the stub axle by inserting it from tbe outside.
It does not matter which wire goes to whic terminal on the B/U switch. It is just completing continuity.

Posted by: narino Aug 27 2024, 09:14 AM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22446 - Thank you, Dylan!

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1319 - Thank you, Bruce!

I hope you both have had a great summer!

Jorge