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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Amp wiring

Posted by: CCE May 18 2024, 10:25 PM

Just installed a Bluetooth amp to my car, to clean the dashboard with a blank faceplate, I ran a cable direct to my battery but I am getting the amp to shut down protecting maybe because of an overload since it doesn’t get energy from the regulated board I think. Can anyone confirm if my assumption is correct or if my regulator is not regulating correctly.

Thanks.
I updated the photo. And my wires
Attached Image

Posted by: Spoke May 18 2024, 11:02 PM

QUOTE(CCE @ May 19 2024, 12:25 AM) *

Just installed a Bluetooth amp


What is the part number of the Bluetooth amp?

Posted by: technicalninja May 18 2024, 11:47 PM

What's up with the single ground to chassis only?

At a minimum I want a chassis ground like you have AND an even larger cable direct to engine/transmission, the closer to the starter the better...

Optimal is big ground (large battery cable) to starter mount, medium ground (10 gauge or better) to engine close to alternator. Then 2 big (small battery cable) to chassis. One at normal spot and one behind/beneath the dash.

For the front one I'd put in a grounding bar similar to what you find in your home electrical panel. That would allow me to add ground circuits at will from the dashboard appliances.

I sorry I don't have a direct answer to your question.

IMHO you need grounds BAD!

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 19 2024, 07:24 AM

Without details of what amp you’re using and how you’ve wired speakers - it’s impossible to tell what is going on. You may have speakers shorted, or too low of impedance speakers, causing the amp to go into protection.

However, with the large amp power supply wire coming off the battery positive as shown, the voltage regulator should have nothing to do with the problem as long as the battery is 12v (vehicle off) and about 13.8v - 14v (ish) with vehicle running (charging). Use a Multi-meter to verify. If that is OK, your problem is how you’ve wired the amp.

The single chassis ground is not a problem for your amplifier.

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 19 2024, 07:29 AM

QUOTE(technicalninja @ May 19 2024, 01:47 AM) *

What's up with the single ground to chassis only?



Standard automotive practice on both vintage and modern vehicles.

Picture below is battery negative cable for BMW E70 X5. Although it has a device incorporated (shunt resistor) to allow all current draw to be measured - all current is still sourced from a single ground connection to chassis and battery negative.

Very modern but still a single ground
Attached Image

Posted by: windforfun May 19 2024, 10:35 AM

Previously used amp?

New amp? If so, it might be bad out of the box.

None of this stuff gets factory tested before shipment. None of it.

dry.gif dry.gif dry.gif

Posted by: technicalninja May 19 2024, 12:23 PM

What's up @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 ?

Do you just argue for the sake of argument?

He's right! The OEMs do single grounds all of the time. It's a requirement if you want to add in a shunt (in the neg cable) for current draw. Won't work without it.

It's done for cost reasons (or the shunt) and modern build practice is SHITLOADS better regarding lack of electrical resistance through the body. They do many processes to the sheet metal that they didn't 50 years ago.

The place that is the Achilles heel for Bimmers is the ground cable from the engine to the body.
I replace those all of the time. Super nice looking big, braided cable!
If it was grounded to the battery that wouldn't happen!
Battery being 10 feet away from the engine doesn't make adding the extra ground easy.

The very worst BMW ground cables (at the battery) have an explosive squib in them. This isolates the battery in the case of an accident. It is the LAST to detonate in an airbag deployment.
The squib get corrosion in it over time and takes the car down hard.
The cable takes 1 minute to change but cost $450!
A 18" FLAPS cable WILL solve the no-start but you will have an SRS light from that point on.
I'm a BMW guy. I have a 98 E36 M3. I LOVE old BMWs. Someday I'll have an E24 M6 and an E39 M5 (early canbus!).
I advise my customers to NOT keep a canbus equipped BMW past 150K or ten years.
You end up buying battery cables and other stuff that cost 1000% more than they should!
The ones who want to keep their stuff longer I advise to get serious about DIY OR expect maintenance cost to skyrocket after 10Y/150K.

Superhawk didn't mention this as he probably hasn't had to deal with PISSED OFF customers over a simple ground strap...

The 50 years of corrosion on non-treated sheet metal doesn't help ANY car.
Even old Bimmers have problems.

Hyundia and Kia use single body grounds.
When those cars show up for electrical issues (alternator/starter) I first test by connecting jumper cable from the negative bat terminal to the tranny case.
Problem usually disappears!
I FIX 90% of them by adding a single ground to the trans.
They don't need the alternator/starter the customers call about.
They need to be PROPERLY grounded!
It's $50 versus 400 and the new parts often don't fix it anyways.
These cars are ten years old, and the single ground has functioned fine for all of them right up to the point it doesn't.
Fixing shit like that for chump change VASTLY increases customer confidence in their technician!
If I end up putting a starter/alternator on the car, the additional ground gets installed as well.
EVERY SINGLE TIME!!!!
I hunt "no comebacks" viciously.
Comebacks DESTROY customer confidence and don't make money!

This comes from a guy that has been repairing vehicles for 40+ years...
I have a 95% "Kill ratio". After I do work for you, you NEVER take any of your vehicles to anyone else. You, normally, feed me your relatives and friends.
I tell customers to "send me more victims". They always laugh.
I have customers that have been with me for 30+ years.
I do ZERO advertisement...

SH is right! The radio problem is (most likely) not related to the single ground.

Electron flow is from negative to positive and if the negative side has ANY resistance, it will cause strange shit to happen.

Lots if threads on here mention REPLACING the original ground cable to the engine as preventative maintenance/fix strange starting/charging issues.

Your car had that set up originally.
It doesn't now.

Take my advice or not...
You could do it easily with the battery you have.
Get a side post negative cable with a 10-gauge second wire at your FLAPS.
Cable goes to engine/trans. Second lead could support the forward ground bar or a second one to engine.
$25 and ten minutes...

To say "Oh, your 50-year-old ANYTHING can get away with a single chassis ground" is EXTREMELY short sighted in my book. ninja.gif

SH, if you were working for me, telling the customer a 50-year-old chassis ground was the way to go would be "Strike One"...

Posted by: Front yard mechanic May 19 2024, 12:48 PM

Get a 15 year old to figure it out they know how to turn up the music confused24.gif

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 19 2024, 12:58 PM

QUOTE(technicalninja @ May 19 2024, 02:23 PM) *

What's up @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 ?

Do you just argue for the sake of argument?



Sometimes stirthepot.gif happy11.gif

Other times it’s simply to keep a thread on track and to help keep the OP from getting distracted by something that won’t help his specific problem.


Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 01:29 PM

QUOTE(Front yard mechanic @ May 19 2024, 12:48 PM) *

Get a 15 year old to figure it out they know how to turn up the music confused24.gif

Hahahaa, agree!

Sorry for my delay in the reply.

The amp is a Bluetooth 400w 4way amp from blaupunkt.
Attached Image

Model AMP1804BT. New from Amazon and I installed it with an amp install kit, the ground in the first picture is the factory setup, just with an optima battery.

Attached Image

The speakers are a pair of focal 5.2” in the original grills and a set of 5.1 also focales 2 way. the door holes where already in when I got the car… with a set of roten clarions… very ugly.

Posted by: technicalninja May 19 2024, 01:41 PM

But it MIGHT help the entire electrical system...

So, if I see something that I believe is a critical problem I should just let "sleeping dogs lie" if it isn't directly aimed at that issue?
Especially if the solution will be the least expensive thing the OP can do to the car..

This is the Superhawk996 way?

Most of your answers to my questions are NOT on point Sir!
Most of the answers from anyone are not on point.
Doesn't matter to me. I LIKE your posts (at least most of them).
Seldom do you "screw the pooch". You did here.

Having multiple insights into anything is SO much better than having just one or two...

I've "fixed" more "un-killable by anyone else" electrical gremlins with two techniques.

#1 Make sure you don't have ground issues.
#2 Service history, most of the time (90%) the truly weird electrical issues are a direct result of some monkey "screwing the pooch".

I once diagnosed and fixed a mid 80s 7 series that was blowing fuses. Multiple other techs had tried. The owner of the shop stated it was 'unfixable". The entire dash had been removed, the wiring harness "de-taped" and re-connected everything. It had been "dead" at Eurospec (a shop I worked at in the 90s) for two years.
Every tech there has tried.
Within 45 minutes I had isolated it to a pinched harness at the front bumper mount.
The problem MAGICALLY started right after the car was painted...
I fixed that puppy in under an hour total and DECLINED the "put the dashboard back into the car" job!
Luckily the moron who removed the dash still worked there.

Grounds and monkeys are the rule here.

I'm the Technicalninja
I did NOT choose that name. I earned it!
It was bestowed on me WITHOUT my consent by my shop critters.

Sorry SH, the ninja way is to make other aware when I see a possible Gremlin or the Reaper.
It's just my style...
Technician FIRST! ninja.gif

Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 01:41 PM

Attached Image

Here a pick of the dash. And speakers

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 19 2024, 01:50 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=26203

I’m trying to find Blaupunkt documentation for this amp but looks to be very poorly supported.

What are the symptoms with the amp? When you say it’s shutting down from overload what do you mean by that ?

The main thing that I can see from back panel online is that the remote (rem) terminal needs to have switched 12v to power the amp on.


How do you have the amp and speakers wired? Photos would help.

Have you checked your speaker wiring to make sure you don’t have short circuits there?

Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 02:01 PM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 19 2024, 01:50 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=26203

I’m trying to find Blaupunkt documentation for this amp but looks to be very poorly supported.

What are the symptoms with the amp?

The main thing that I can see from back panel online is that the remote (rem) terminal needs to have switched 12v to power the amp on.


How do you have the amp and speakers wired?

The amp just shuts down as soon as I accelerate the motor under load. 1st gear or second. It blips, and starts again 5 seconds later. Can’t really use it.

The amp has a remote on connection, I installed it to the fuse board on a free tab that opens with the ignition on

I also installed a switch just to disconnect when not in use to interrupt the remote line in.


Speakers run direct to the doors and all connector I installed with ferrings and thermofit.

I liked very much my install until it did not work! confused24.gif all is under. The dash and does not show.Attached Image

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 19 2024, 02:06 PM

QUOTE(CCE @ May 19 2024, 04:01 PM) *

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 19 2024, 01:50 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=26203

I’m trying to find Blaupunkt documentation for this amp but looks to be very poorly supported.

What are the symptoms with the amp?

The main thing that I can see from back panel online is that the remote (rem) terminal needs to have switched 12v to power the amp on.


How do you have the amp and speakers wired?

The amp just shuts down as soon as I accelerate the motor under load. 1st gear or second. It blips, and starts again 5 seconds later. Can’t really use it.

The amp has a remote on connection, I installed it to the fuse board on a free tab that opens with the ignition on




I understand. Have you measured the 12v power supply while the amp is shutting off? This would be just to make sure amp isn’t going past its 15v upper supply voltage limit.


So just to clarify, if you don’t run the motor, the amp will work and keeps working OK until the engine is started?

Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 02:11 PM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 19 2024, 02:06 PM) *

QUOTE(CCE @ May 19 2024, 04:01 PM) *

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 19 2024, 01:50 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=26203

I’m trying to find Blaupunkt documentation for this amp but looks to be very poorly supported.

What are the symptoms with the amp?

The main thing that I can see from back panel online is that the remote (rem) terminal needs to have switched 12v to power the amp on.


How do you have the amp and speakers wired?

The amp just shuts down as soon as I accelerate the motor under load. 1st gear or second. It blips, and starts again 5 seconds later. Can’t really use it.

The amp has a remote on connection, I installed it to the fuse board on a free tab that opens with the ignition on




I understand. Have you measured the 12v power supply while the amp is shutting off? This would be just to make sure amp isn’t going past its 15v upper supply voltage limit.

Not yet, I will do as soon as I get home, I think will be up the chart.

I was thinking on installing the “+” cable direct from the fuse bar, but worry it can be too much load on a 50 year old board…

Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 02:17 PM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 19 2024, 02:06 PM) *

QUOTE(CCE @ May 19 2024, 04:01 PM) *

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 19 2024, 01:50 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=26203

I’m trying to find Blaupunkt documentation for this amp but looks to be very poorly supported.

What are the symptoms with the amp?

The main thing that I can see from back panel online is that the remote (rem) terminal needs to have switched 12v to power the amp on.


How do you have the amp and speakers wired?

The amp just shuts down as soon as I accelerate the motor under load. 1st gear or second. It blips, and starts again 5 seconds later. Can’t really use it.

The amp has a remote on connection, I installed it to the fuse board on a free tab that opens with the ignition on




I understand. Have you measured the 12v power supply while the amp is shutting off? This would be just to make sure amp isn’t going past its 15v upper supply voltage limit.


So just to clarify, if you don’t run the motor, the amp will work and keeps working OK until the engine is started?


Correct, I only noticed It shuts down after I finished and was on a test drive.

Attached Image here you can see the ground loop on top, directly to the old autoradio ground.

Posted by: Superhawk996 May 19 2024, 02:44 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=26203

So here are a couple things you can do:

1) clean off that under dash ground until you have shinny bare metal
1a) you can use a multimeter to measure resistance between that under dash ground and battery post negative to appease Ninja. Should be very close to zero ohms. Your test leads will have some resistance. Measure by shorting leads. Subtract that from whatever the meter reads between under dash and battery negative

2) use meter to monitor the 12v input to the amp while driving. Should not really be much above 14.5v max. Since you are tapped directly off battery positive this is your battery voltage when runnning and charging. If it’s exceeding 15v here, your voltage regulator is acting up.

3) monitor the remote connection when driving to make sure that it has a steady 12v being supplied to it. A loose spade connector on the fuse panel proving intermittent 12v would cause the shutdown / restart behavior you’re seeing.

From what I can find for amp documentation the input voltage upper limit is 15v. Make sure you aren’t exceeding that.

Beyond that it would be RF interference from old school ignition or alternator that the amp is sensitive to and causing the shutdowns.

Posted by: Chris914n6 May 19 2024, 03:55 PM

With the current info sounds like the speaker wires are either shorting to each other or to the chassis.

Posted by: windforfun May 19 2024, 03:55 PM

Here's some more wood to throw on the fire.

If your voltage regulator checks out & your grounds are kosher, as previously discussed, I would again suggest that the amplifier is bad. If there is alternator noise while driving, then I would also suggest that the amp's internal PI filter is bad & leaking to ground (assuming it has one) due to a bad capacitor. External PI filters were used in the old days to eliminate alternator noise. They consist of an inductor in series with the hot input along with two capacitors on either side of the inductor which run from the hot input to ground. An intermittent leaking capacitor will short to ground & perhaps blow a fuse depending upon how bad the short is. I've run into this problem before with OLD audio gear.

Again, just some more potential BS to add to this discussion.

Your wiring looks very clean. Are your loudspeakers hooked up independently or in parallel? Series would be a no no from a sound quality perspective, but this will decrease the load. The lower the total resistance, as in the case of a parallel connection, the larger the load. I suppose this is a moot point since the system works fine when the car isn't running.

Ergo you have a defective amp. They don't test these things prior to shipping. I would return it for a new one. Can you contact Blaupunkt for additional support?
Does the thing come with a schematic?

Finally, what happens when you disconnect the speakers? Can you see if the amp shuts down while hitting the gas pedal?

Finally again, this is a Class D amplifier. They are prone to power supply issues.

From the internet:

"Power-Related Problems:

Power issues are another common concern. These can range from the amplifier failing to turn on to problems with maintaining consistent power output during use.
Causes can include faulty power supplies, inadequate power sources, or internal component failures, such as issues with the power management circuitry."

https://brzhifi.com/blogs/news/solving-common-issues-your-guide-to-class-d-amplifier-troubleshooting

Hmmm... Is the amp getting hot & going into thermal overload & subsequent shut down?

Call me at 408-802-0155 if you wish to discuss this in greater detail. Leave a message if I don't answer.

dry.gif dry.gif dry.gif

Posted by: technicalninja May 19 2024, 04:08 PM

Edit: This was supposed to fall under Superhawk"s post. WFF beat me to the punch.

Freaking Perfect!
Only two ninja adds.
I just love those internal/external star washers for grounds.
I'd do pretty much exactly what SH suggested and add the "slap it" test.
If it will act up when you slap it (or clear) you've got your critter!

Jittery powers, both the main feed and the remote on.
Shitty grounds.
Too much power
Too little power
Cold solder on circuit boards internally in the amp.
That's the list for me...

To the OP:
Your wiring work looks KICK ASS!
You can come do my wiring anytime you'd like!
So nice...

This is what I mean when I say most of the "best quality" technicians I know don't do it for a living.
This guy's work looks like it...

Posted by: windforfun May 19 2024, 06:54 PM

BTW, Sony never tested their Trinitron TVs prior to shipment. They achieved such fantastic reliability that they didn't need to. They figured that if one in a million was bad, they'd just replace it for the customer. Blaupunkt probably does the same thing. They would let the customer do the testing.

My last Blaupunkt car receiver (tuner & amplifier) was a total POS. I could sit there in the car & see the radio station transmission towers from a mile away & the radio couldn't cleanly grab the signal to save its life.

German consumer electronics aren't what they used to be except maybe for Studer Revox which is not really a consumer product. I used to go with CA/Japan made Ampex products - less in price with local service available. Great sound with super workmanship. Go USA!!!

Whatever...

beer3.gif beer3.gif beer3.gif


Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 09:12 PM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 19 2024, 02:44 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=26203

So here are a couple things you can do:

1) clean off that under dash ground until you have shinny bare metal
1a) you can use a multimeter to measure resistance between that under dash ground and battery post negative to appease Ninja. Should be very close to zero ohms. Your test leads will have some resistance. Measure by shorting leads. Subtract that from whatever the meter reads between under dash and battery negative

2) use meter to monitor the 12v input to the amp while driving. Should not really be much above 14.5v max. Since you are tapped directly off battery positive this is your battery voltage when runnning and charging. If it’s exceeding 15v here, your voltage regulator is acting up.

3) monitor the remote connection when driving to make sure that it has a steady 12v being supplied to it. A loose spade connector on the fuse panel proving intermittent 12v would cause the shutdown / restart behavior you’re seeing.

From what I can find for amp documentation the input voltage upper limit is 15v. Make sure you aren’t exceeding that.

Beyond that it would be RF interference from old school ignition or alternator that the amp is sensitive to and causing the shutdowns.


Thanks a lot! I will follow the instructions ! Really appreciate it

Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 09:20 PM

QUOTE(windforfun @ May 19 2024, 03:55 PM) *

Here's some more wood to throw on the fire.

If your voltage regulator checks out & your grounds are kosher, as previously discussed, I would again suggest that the amplifier is bad. If there is alternator noise while driving, then I would also suggest that the amp's internal PI filter is bad & leaking to ground (assuming it has one) due to a bad capacitor. External PI filters were used in the old days to eliminate alternator noise. They consist of an inductor in series with the hot input along with two capacitors on either side of the inductor which run from the hot input to ground. An intermittent leaking capacitor will short to ground & perhaps blow a fuse depending upon how bad the short is. I've run into this problem before with OLD audio gear.

Again, just some more potential BS to add to this discussion.

Your wiring looks very clean. Are your loudspeakers hooked up independently or in parallel? Series would be a no no from a sound quality perspective, but this will decrease the load. The lower the total resistance, as in the case of a parallel connection, the larger the load. I suppose this is a moot point since the system works fine when the car isn't running.

Ergo you have a defective amp. They don't test these things prior to shipping. I would return it for a new one. Can you contact Blaupunkt for additional support?
Does the thing come with a schematic?

Finally, what happens when you disconnect the speakers? Can you see if the amp shuts down while hitting the gas pedal?

Finally again, this is a Class D amplifier. They are prone to power supply issues.

From the internet:

"Power-Related Problems:

Power issues are another common concern. These can range from the amplifier failing to turn on to problems with maintaining consistent power output during use.
Causes can include faulty power supplies, inadequate power sources, or internal component failures, such as issues with the power management circuitry."

https://brzhifi.com/blogs/news/solving-common-issues-your-guide-to-class-d-amplifier-troubleshooting

Hmmm... Is the amp getting hot & going into thermal overload & subsequent shut down?

Call me at 408-802-0155 if you wish to discuss this in greater detail. Leave a message if I don't answer.

dry.gif dry.gif dry.gif


Speakers are connected individually not in parallel
It does shut down on acceleration
I need to verify my regulator I think it all points that direction
Thanks really

Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 09:22 PM

QUOTE(technicalninja @ May 19 2024, 04:08 PM) *

Edit: This was supposed to fall under Superhawk"s post. WFF beat me to the punch.

Freaking Perfect!
Only two ninja adds.
I just love those internal/external star washers for grounds.
I'd do pretty much exactly what SH suggested and add the "slap it" test.
If it will act up when you slap it (or clear) you've got your critter!

Jittery powers, both the main feed and the remote on.
Shitty grounds.
Too much power
Too little power
Cold solder on circuit boards internally in the amp.
That's the list for me...

To the OP:
Your wiring work looks KICK ASS!
You can come do my wiring anytime you'd like!
So nice...

This is what I mean when I say most of the "best quality" technicians I know don't do it for a living.
This guy's work looks like it...

Thanks they where so few cables I dedicated some time and it was done. Did some tests first

Attached Image

Posted by: CCE May 19 2024, 09:26 PM

QUOTE(windforfun @ May 19 2024, 06:54 PM) *

BTW, Sony never tested their Trinitron TVs prior to shipment. They achieved such fantastic reliability that they didn't need to. They figured that if one in a million was bad, they'd just replace it for the customer. Blaupunkt probably does the same thing. They would let the customer do the testing.

My last Blaupunkt car receiver (tuner & amplifier) was a total POS. I could sit there in the car & see the radio station transmission towers from a mile away & the radio couldn't cleanly grab the signal to save its life.

German consumer electronics aren't what they used to be except maybe for Studer Revox which is not really a consumer product. I used to go with CA/Japan made Ampex products - less in price with local service available. Great sound with super workmanship. Go USA!!!

Whatever...

beer3.gif beer3.gif beer3.gif


Agree

Posted by: Spoke May 20 2024, 04:34 AM

I went looking for the manual for this amp to see what the specs were and found these 1 star ratings on Amazon. Not saying anything about the product; just reading comments. Lots of unhappy people.

From the United States
Lee S.
1.0 out of 5 stars Poor, Unsupported Product…That is defective.
Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2022
Verified Purchase
Finally got around to installing this just to find out it will not power on. I double checked my input voltage and it was receiving 12 volts, but the unit is dead. The instructions are practically non-existent and provide no help whatsoever. If you do an internet search, there are several post about how the company doesn’t even have this listed under them. Just stay away from it. Absolute waste of money.

Update…finally got it to work. Because the instructions are very poor and lacking in detail for install, it does not mention to wire ignition hot to the “rem” terminal to turnthe unit on. The sound is ok, but not loud when cranked up. Still not a recommendation.
One person found this helpful
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BestTech
1.0 out of 5 stars Bad batch
Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2024
Verified Purchase
I have bought and installed multiple of the “BT” version of this amp and love them. I put them in classic cars.
Apparently the “BT” models are all gone and are now shipping the “BT PRO” only. So even though this listing doesnt say PRO , thats what you get. I have made 3 orders so far of this BTPRO model and each one has had the same issue , iphones wont connect and stay connected. It keeps dropping the Bluetooth immediately upon playing a song.
Upon my return third bad unit I called Blaupunkt tech support and they said theres a bad batch if them and that I could mail my unit to them and they would send me an updated unit so thats what I am going to do. All three of my bad ones came from this amazon seller so unfortunately they probably have more of these bad ones which need to be returned to Blaupunkt. So if you plan to buy one , be prepared for it to potentially not work with iphone and need to return it or send it to the manufacturer.
2 people found this helpful
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mark
1.0 out of 5 stars 1 of 3 worked
Reviewed in the United States on February 12, 2024
Verified Purchase
Read entire review- So i had purchased one of these amps to use in a classic car- it worked flawlessly and connected everytime as soon as you turned the key to give the signal to pair with my iPhone/ i sold the car and the amp went with it

I then got another car and i liked the amp so much i purchased another one- installed it and noticed it now read Amp1840btPRO in the Bluetooth settings- my first one did not have the pro in the title- it was having a hardtime connecting to my phone- when it did connect it would play audio for about 2 seconds and then drop the signal, i could not get it to play more than that- so i figured it was defective- i returned it and got another one- then replacement would would also only play for 2 seconds and then drop the bluetooth signal, super bummed as now i need to find another Bluetooth amp- i would not try a 3rd as something definitely changed since my first one- pretty much the new batches do not function correctly unfortunately
2 people found this helpful
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Michael Bowick
1.0 out of 5 stars Disappointed
Reviewed in the United States on March 30, 2024
Verified Purchase
The Bluetooth would not stay connected, and the amp continuously would cut off for no reason. I was highly disappointed in the product. There is no videos to help troubleshooting the issues nor anyway to get help on the issues. I would not recommend using this amp.
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shane e.
1.0 out of 5 stars HORRIBLE AMP!!!
Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2023
Verified Purchase
Amp seemed ok out of the box...but quickly found it to be a huge piece of junk.

the antenna wouldn't stay tight, if you turn it one direct or the other, the base nut unscrews and everything just flops around.

This thing does not produce the power it claims, didn't expect the high numbers, but did atleast expect 50w x4.

Bluetooth connected easy, and always worked...but the amp has some severe limitations.

One day while trying to adjust the front speakers to actually produce sound from the amp it poped and shut off forever...i had maybe 10 hours of total use out of the amp...and it couldn't even push a pair of tweeters and 4x10's...

I bought an alpine amp and and RCA to usb c cable and these speakers are quite nice now.
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Matt H.
1.0 out of 5 stars Bluetooth wouldn’t stay connected.
Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2023
Verified Purchase
Bought it to install in a classic car and be able to pair my phone via Bluetooth. It would play less than 3 seconds and then disconnect and then reconnect. Antenna was connected and phone works on all other Bluetooth sources. Wasted time wiring this thing up for it not to work. Unimpressed to say the least.
One person found this helpful
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Mike
1.0 out of 5 stars Drops Bluetooth within seconds of playing
Reviewed in the United States on March 26, 2024
Verified Purchase
Don’t buy this junk. Can’t return it
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Willee
1.0 out of 5 stars Defective when I got it
Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2022
Verified Purchase
UPDATE July 2022:: Since I bought it last November 2021 and it was defective on arrival. I sent an email to the manufacturer with a copy of my receipt. So 8 months later they have Not sent an email or tried to contact me in any way. DO NOT BUY - NO WARRANTY!!
It took a month before I got around to installing it when I noticed the bluetooth antenna mount was loose. Tried to tighten it up and was only twisting wires inside it instead. Powered up the amp after install and the left channel is out (yes I checked it). Then after running for just a minute it would shut off. So basically I got a amp that shorted out from the factory and it's too late to return this boat anchor!
2 people found this helpful
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Amazon Customer
1.0 out of 5 stars No bluetooth
Reviewed in the United States on January 5, 2024
Verified Purchase
Very disappointed . Bluetooth will not stay connected even with phone with phone beside Unit . Sending back !!
One person found this helpful
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Chops101
1.0 out of 5 stars Not True BT stereo
Reviewed in the United States on January 10, 2023
Verified Purchase
This is not a bad amp for the price, but I needed to use it exclusively for the BT adapting feature as I use iPhone exclusively for music streaming in my classic car.
While it pairs well, and the sound is plenty loud but not much bass, it is mono when BT paired.
That was the deal breaker, it's mono. And I tested it / validated that aspect. Had to send it back and went with a separate BT adapter and separate amp.

Posted by: CCE May 20 2024, 08:40 AM

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 20 2024, 04:34 AM) *

I went looking for the manual for this amp to see what the specs were and found these 1 star ratings on Amazon. Not saying anything about the product; just reading comments. Lots of unhappy people.

From the United States
Lee S.
1.0 out of 5 stars Poor, Unsupported Product…That is defective.
Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2022
Verified Purchase
Finally got around to installing this just to find out it will not power on. I double checked my input voltage and it was receiving 12 volts, but the unit is dead. The instructions are practically non-existent and provide no help whatsoever. If you do an internet search, there are several post about how the company doesn’t even have this listed under them. Just stay away from it. Absolute waste of money.

Update…finally got it to work. Because the instructions are very poor and lacking in detail for install, it does not mention to wire ignition hot to the “rem” terminal to turnthe unit on. The sound is ok, but not loud when cranked up. Still not a recommendation.
One person found this helpful
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BestTech
1.0 out of 5 stars Bad batch
Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2024
Verified Purchase
I have bought and installed multiple of the “BT” version of this amp and love them. I put them in classic cars.
Apparently the “BT” models are all gone and are now shipping the “BT PRO” only. So even though this listing doesnt say PRO , thats what you get. I have made 3 orders so far of this BTPRO model and each one has had the same issue , iphones wont connect and stay connected. It keeps dropping the Bluetooth immediately upon playing a song.
Upon my return third bad unit I called Blaupunkt tech support and they said theres a bad batch if them and that I could mail my unit to them and they would send me an updated unit so thats what I am going to do. All three of my bad ones came from this amazon seller so unfortunately they probably have more of these bad ones which need to be returned to Blaupunkt. So if you plan to buy one , be prepared for it to potentially not work with iphone and need to return it or send it to the manufacturer.
2 people found this helpful
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mark
1.0 out of 5 stars 1 of 3 worked
Reviewed in the United States on February 12, 2024
Verified Purchase
Read entire review- So i had purchased one of these amps to use in a classic car- it worked flawlessly and connected everytime as soon as you turned the key to give the signal to pair with my iPhone/ i sold the car and the amp went with it

I then got another car and i liked the amp so much i purchased another one- installed it and noticed it now read Amp1840btPRO in the Bluetooth settings- my first one did not have the pro in the title- it was having a hardtime connecting to my phone- when it did connect it would play audio for about 2 seconds and then drop the signal, i could not get it to play more than that- so i figured it was defective- i returned it and got another one- then replacement would would also only play for 2 seconds and then drop the bluetooth signal, super bummed as now i need to find another Bluetooth amp- i would not try a 3rd as something definitely changed since my first one- pretty much the new batches do not function correctly unfortunately
2 people found this helpful
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Michael Bowick
1.0 out of 5 stars Disappointed
Reviewed in the United States on March 30, 2024
Verified Purchase
The Bluetooth would not stay connected, and the amp continuously would cut off for no reason. I was highly disappointed in the product. There is no videos to help troubleshooting the issues nor anyway to get help on the issues. I would not recommend using this amp.
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shane e.
1.0 out of 5 stars HORRIBLE AMP!!!
Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2023
Verified Purchase
Amp seemed ok out of the box...but quickly found it to be a huge piece of junk.

the antenna wouldn't stay tight, if you turn it one direct or the other, the base nut unscrews and everything just flops around.

This thing does not produce the power it claims, didn't expect the high numbers, but did atleast expect 50w x4.

Bluetooth connected easy, and always worked...but the amp has some severe limitations.

One day while trying to adjust the front speakers to actually produce sound from the amp it poped and shut off forever...i had maybe 10 hours of total use out of the amp...and it couldn't even push a pair of tweeters and 4x10's...

I bought an alpine amp and and RCA to usb c cable and these speakers are quite nice now.
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Matt H.
1.0 out of 5 stars Bluetooth wouldn’t stay connected.
Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2023
Verified Purchase
Bought it to install in a classic car and be able to pair my phone via Bluetooth. It would play less than 3 seconds and then disconnect and then reconnect. Antenna was connected and phone works on all other Bluetooth sources. Wasted time wiring this thing up for it not to work. Unimpressed to say the least.
One person found this helpful
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Mike
1.0 out of 5 stars Drops Bluetooth within seconds of playing
Reviewed in the United States on March 26, 2024
Verified Purchase
Don’t buy this junk. Can’t return it
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Willee
1.0 out of 5 stars Defective when I got it
Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2022
Verified Purchase
UPDATE July 2022:: Since I bought it last November 2021 and it was defective on arrival. I sent an email to the manufacturer with a copy of my receipt. So 8 months later they have Not sent an email or tried to contact me in any way. DO NOT BUY - NO WARRANTY!!
It took a month before I got around to installing it when I noticed the bluetooth antenna mount was loose. Tried to tighten it up and was only twisting wires inside it instead. Powered up the amp after install and the left channel is out (yes I checked it). Then after running for just a minute it would shut off. So basically I got a amp that shorted out from the factory and it's too late to return this boat anchor!
2 people found this helpful
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Amazon Customer
1.0 out of 5 stars No bluetooth
Reviewed in the United States on January 5, 2024
Verified Purchase
Very disappointed . Bluetooth will not stay connected even with phone with phone beside Unit . Sending back !!
One person found this helpful
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Chops101
1.0 out of 5 stars Not True BT stereo
Reviewed in the United States on January 10, 2023
Verified Purchase
This is not a bad amp for the price, but I needed to use it exclusively for the BT adapting feature as I use iPhone exclusively for music streaming in my classic car.
While it pairs well, and the sound is plenty loud but not much bass, it is mono when BT paired.
That was the deal breaker, it's mono. And I tested it / validated that aspect. Had to send it back and went with a separate BT adapter and separate amp.


Thanks I red most of them, the biggest complaint was on a short delivery of power from 100w to some 65w x4, they lost a lot of power to the advertised data, which in my case was not an issue, and a gain from my old car stereo that was 40w per channel, just want to hear, not share with the neighbors.
And also it connects really well to my iPhone, surprisingly well. So I just need to sort the problem which I think is in my power regulator, and we will do fine.
Attached Image

Posted by: windforfun May 20 2024, 09:35 AM

BTW, those power ratings are most likely peak power & not rms (root mean square). The rms rating is more realistic or practical. For a sine wave, rms is less than peak by the square root of 2 (2^1/2). All the better amplifier makers specify rms power into a 4 &/or 8 ohm load.

Good luck with the trouble shooting.

ar15.gif ar15.gif ar15.gif

Posted by: Dave_Darling May 20 2024, 06:16 PM

QUOTE(CCE @ May 19 2024, 08:20 PM) *

It does shut down on acceleration


To me, that suggests that something is moving and shorting out. Once you have double-checked that your system voltage isn't spiking to 16V, start wiggling everything.

--DD

Posted by: CCE May 21 2024, 08:04 PM

QUOTE(CCE @ May 20 2024, 08:40 AM) *

QUOTE(Spoke @ May 20 2024, 04:34 AM) *

I went looking for the manual for this amp to see what the specs were and found these 1 star ratings on Amazon. Not saying anything about the product; just reading comments. Lots of unhappy people.

From the United States
Lee S.
1.0 out of 5 stars Poor, Unsupported Product…That is defective.
Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2022
Verified Purchase
Finally got around to installing this just to find out it will not power on. I double checked my input voltage and it was receiving 12 volts, but the unit is dead. The instructions are practically non-existent and provide no help whatsoever. If you do an internet search, there are several post about how the company doesn’t even have this listed under them. Just stay away from it. Absolute waste of money.

Update…finally got it to work. Because the instructions are very poor and lacking in detail for install, it does not mention to wire ignition hot to the “rem” terminal to turnthe unit on. The sound is ok, but not loud when cranked up. Still not a recommendation.
One person found this helpful
Helpful
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BestTech
1.0 out of 5 stars Bad batch
Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2024
Verified Purchase
I have bought and installed multiple of the “BT” version of this amp and love them. I put them in classic cars.
Apparently the “BT” models are all gone and are now shipping the “BT PRO” only. So even though this listing doesnt say PRO , thats what you get. I have made 3 orders so far of this BTPRO model and each one has had the same issue , iphones wont connect and stay connected. It keeps dropping the Bluetooth immediately upon playing a song.
Upon my return third bad unit I called Blaupunkt tech support and they said theres a bad batch if them and that I could mail my unit to them and they would send me an updated unit so thats what I am going to do. All three of my bad ones came from this amazon seller so unfortunately they probably have more of these bad ones which need to be returned to Blaupunkt. So if you plan to buy one , be prepared for it to potentially not work with iphone and need to return it or send it to the manufacturer.
2 people found this helpful
Helpful
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mark
1.0 out of 5 stars 1 of 3 worked
Reviewed in the United States on February 12, 2024
Verified Purchase
Read entire review- So i had purchased one of these amps to use in a classic car- it worked flawlessly and connected everytime as soon as you turned the key to give the signal to pair with my iPhone/ i sold the car and the amp went with it

I then got another car and i liked the amp so much i purchased another one- installed it and noticed it now read Amp1840btPRO in the Bluetooth settings- my first one did not have the pro in the title- it was having a hardtime connecting to my phone- when it did connect it would play audio for about 2 seconds and then drop the signal, i could not get it to play more than that- so i figured it was defective- i returned it and got another one- then replacement would would also only play for 2 seconds and then drop the bluetooth signal, super bummed as now i need to find another Bluetooth amp- i would not try a 3rd as something definitely changed since my first one- pretty much the new batches do not function correctly unfortunately
2 people found this helpful
Helpful
Report
Michael Bowick
1.0 out of 5 stars Disappointed
Reviewed in the United States on March 30, 2024
Verified Purchase
The Bluetooth would not stay connected, and the amp continuously would cut off for no reason. I was highly disappointed in the product. There is no videos to help troubleshooting the issues nor anyway to get help on the issues. I would not recommend using this amp.
Helpful
Report
shane e.
1.0 out of 5 stars HORRIBLE AMP!!!
Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2023
Verified Purchase
Amp seemed ok out of the box...but quickly found it to be a huge piece of junk.

the antenna wouldn't stay tight, if you turn it one direct or the other, the base nut unscrews and everything just flops around.

This thing does not produce the power it claims, didn't expect the high numbers, but did atleast expect 50w x4.

Bluetooth connected easy, and always worked...but the amp has some severe limitations.

One day while trying to adjust the front speakers to actually produce sound from the amp it poped and shut off forever...i had maybe 10 hours of total use out of the amp...and it couldn't even push a pair of tweeters and 4x10's...

I bought an alpine amp and and RCA to usb c cable and these speakers are quite nice now.
Helpful
Report
Matt H.
1.0 out of 5 stars Bluetooth wouldn’t stay connected.
Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2023
Verified Purchase
Bought it to install in a classic car and be able to pair my phone via Bluetooth. It would play less than 3 seconds and then disconnect and then reconnect. Antenna was connected and phone works on all other Bluetooth sources. Wasted time wiring this thing up for it not to work. Unimpressed to say the least.
One person found this helpful
Helpful
Report
Mike
1.0 out of 5 stars Drops Bluetooth within seconds of playing
Reviewed in the United States on March 26, 2024
Verified Purchase
Don’t buy this junk. Can’t return it
Helpful
Report
Willee
1.0 out of 5 stars Defective when I got it
Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2022
Verified Purchase
UPDATE July 2022:: Since I bought it last November 2021 and it was defective on arrival. I sent an email to the manufacturer with a copy of my receipt. So 8 months later they have Not sent an email or tried to contact me in any way. DO NOT BUY - NO WARRANTY!!
It took a month before I got around to installing it when I noticed the bluetooth antenna mount was loose. Tried to tighten it up and was only twisting wires inside it instead. Powered up the amp after install and the left channel is out (yes I checked it). Then after running for just a minute it would shut off. So basically I got a amp that shorted out from the factory and it's too late to return this boat anchor!
2 people found this helpful
Helpful
Report
Amazon Customer
1.0 out of 5 stars No bluetooth
Reviewed in the United States on January 5, 2024
Verified Purchase
Very disappointed . Bluetooth will not stay connected even with phone with phone beside Unit . Sending back !!
One person found this helpful
Helpful
Report
Chops101
1.0 out of 5 stars Not True BT stereo
Reviewed in the United States on January 10, 2023
Verified Purchase
This is not a bad amp for the price, but I needed to use it exclusively for the BT adapting feature as I use iPhone exclusively for music streaming in my classic car.
While it pairs well, and the sound is plenty loud but not much bass, it is mono when BT paired.
That was the deal breaker, it's mono. And I tested it / validated that aspect. Had to send it back and went with a separate BT adapter and separate amp.


Thanks I red most of them, the biggest complaint was on a short delivery of power from 100w to some 65w x4, they lost a lot of power to the advertised data, which in my case was not an issue, and a gain from my old car stereo that was 40w per channel, just want to hear, not share with the neighbors.
And also it connects really well to my iPhone, surprisingly well. So I just need to sort the problem which I think is in my power regulator, and we will do fine.
Attached Image

All connections ar good and tight, (I did the shake test as mentioned, thanks) I ordered a regulator from Autoatlanta, I don’t trust my regulator anymore, and regarding the amp specs. Here is a photo of the very poor brochure.
Attached Image

Posted by: windforfun May 21 2024, 08:50 PM

I'm glad that those output power specifications are RMS. That's a powerful amplifier with reasonable harmonic distortion (THD).

Power = voltage x current or voltage^2/resistance.

Again, good luck with the trouble shooting.

ar15.gif ar15.gif ar15.gif

Posted by: rjames May 22 2024, 09:59 AM

When I first acquired my car the PO had installed an amp and it would cut out intermittently. I chalked it up to an electrical system that wasn't up to the task at the time. I removed it soon after.
I'll be interested to see what your voltage readings are when it cuts out.

Note that if you have any fuel smell in the front bulkhead it will come through the holes that you used to mount the stereo unless they are sealed up nice and tight.


Posted by: CCE May 26 2024, 12:44 PM

Just got a new hella regulator from Autoatlanta….

Magic. It now works perfectly my old regulator was allowing more power than it should..

It now sounds and moves at the same time.

All suggestions where followed

It’s a bit smaller in height but worked immediately now I need to figure out the retaining screws. But it is working.

Previous one was from autozone apparently was not correct for the car. Had some issues with coils in the past. Car baked the CB performance dry coils.

Thanks all

Attached Image

Posted by: Freezin 914 May 26 2024, 12:57 PM

I am no expert, but have installed a few stereos in my day, if it is shutting down “overload”, it could be a few things.
Is it a four channel amp? sorry didn’t read real close….
Because if it is 2 channel, the way it looks to be wired it has to be 2ohm stable, or it will shut down heat overload.

Posted by: windforfun May 26 2024, 02:51 PM

QUOTE(CCE @ May 26 2024, 11:44 AM) *

Just got a new hella regulator from Autoatlanta….

Magic. It now works perfectly my old regulator was allowing more power than it should..

It now sounds and moves at the same time.

All suggestions where followed

It’s a bit smaller in height but worked immediately now I need to figure out the retaining screws. But it is working.

Previous one was from autozone apparently was not correct for the car. Had some issues with coils in the past. Car baked the CB performance dry coils.

Thanks all

Attached Image


I'm glad the amp is good to go. It's much easier to replace the voltage regulator.

We used to call the bad ones "Bosch Battery Bakers."

You'll need some SS sheet metal screws to secure it. Be gentle & try not to cross thread or strip out the holes.

Right on dude!!!

beerchug.gif beerchug.gif beerchug.gif





Posted by: Superhawk996 May 26 2024, 08:04 PM

With respect to the retaining screws, they need to be very short approx. 4-6 mm long or they will penetrate the side of the relay board and contact the copper trace in the board.

Look closely at pictures of the relay board traces and you’ll see what I mean. I’ve literally found boards where someone put a 3/4” screw in there shorting out multiple traces. headbang.gif

Attached Image

Posted by: CCE May 27 2024, 08:12 AM

QUOTE(Freezin 914 @ May 26 2024, 12:57 PM) *

I am no expert, but have installed a few stereos in my day, if it is shutting down “overload”, it could be a few things.
Is it a four channel amp? sorry didn’t read real close….
Because if it is 2 channel, the way it looks to be wired it has to be 2ohm stable, or it will shut down heat overload.

It’s 4 way, 4 ohms speakers are focal 4.25 and focal 5.1 amp documents say it’s 100w per channel but I don’t think is that much, just sounds a bit louder than my old 50w per channel stereo…has to be around 60w per channel.



Attached Image

Posted by: CCE May 27 2024, 08:17 AM

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 26 2024, 08:04 PM) *

With respect to the retaining screws, they need to be very short approx. 4-6 mm long or they will penetrate the side of the relay board and contact the copper trace in the board.

Look closely at pictures of the relay board traces and you’ll see what I mean. I’ve literally found boards where someone put a 3/4” screw in there shorting out multiple traces. headbang.gif

Attached Image



Great picture thanks so much!, I will.

Posted by: 930cabman May 27 2024, 09:18 AM

Glad you got her fixed. I just came upon this thread and when I read "cuts out on acceleration" I was thinking voltage regulator. I have seen my factory voltage gauge indicating over 14v often. Probably not an issue for factory stuff.

Posted by: CCE May 27 2024, 10:05 AM

QUOTE(930cabman @ May 27 2024, 09:18 AM) *

Glad you got her fixed. I just came upon this thread and when I read "cuts out on acceleration" I was thinking voltage regulator. I have seen my factory voltage gauge indicating over 14v often. Probably not an issue for factory stuff.


Yes I also had a couple of coil packs blown in the past, and had the idea it was a defective batch from CB performance, but now I see it was my autozone voltage regulator allowing peaks of power trough. The amp evidenced it more clearly.

Attached Image

Posted by: Chris914n6 May 27 2024, 01:26 PM

QUOTE(CCE @ May 26 2024, 11:44 AM) *

Just got a new hella regulator from Autoatlanta….
Attached Image

Holes are too close to the important stuff to use screws. I'd just do a pair of zip ties if the holes line up enough. I would think the friction from the connectors would be enough anyways.

Posted by: CCE Jun 2 2024, 05:43 PM

To all who replied to my questions, I want to thank you all for the support and also I wanted to comment on the Amp.

After I sorted the issues caused by my installation, me, and my car regulator, I finally had a chance to use it, and I highly recommend it.

Power will not bleed your ears, just will sound fine, with enough power for my “low-end” Focal speaker sets, bass works deep and natural. Not as specified 100w X 4 by blaupunkt, but for $110usd I think is good. I also installed a kill switch to turn off the amp If I don’t want to use it, connected to the remote turn on on the amp to my fuse box.

I liked the black-out faceplate from 914rubber, and the simple original look to it. The amp is small enough to fit where my old stereo was, wiring was done with an amp install kit also from blaupunkt I also got as the amp from Amazon, and cable caps, very simple install.
I really have very limited talent, and just liked my end result.

Finally, Just FYI all speaker grills and doors where already broken when I got the car, I just replaced the old rotted speakers with new ones because I wanted to hear my phone tunes. driving.gif
Attached Image

Posted by: windforfun Jun 2 2024, 08:44 PM

"I really have very limited talent, and just liked my end result."

"Don't sell yourself short kiddo" as Humphrey Bogart used to say.

"Keep learning & have fun" is what I say.

Electronics are far more complicated than most people understand.

beerchug.gif beerchug.gif beerchug.gif





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