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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ 911/914-6 regulator wiring ugh
Posted by: mb911 Jun 22 2024, 01:55 PM
Ok got a new regulator based off my tests. I am not sure it matters but want to not ruin a $60 part. I can figure ground out easy enough but which is DF and which is 12v? 
Posted by: technicalninja Jun 22 2024, 02:35 PM
No markings at all?
I would EXPECT the dual terminal to be 12+ and the single to be DF but I'd want to verify that somehow.
I've never had to determine terminals on a regulator before.
You hit the WEIRD often...
Interested what @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143 or @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 has to add.
Can you open the case?
Posted by: Superhawk996 Jun 22 2024, 02:52 PM
Well that is dumb not having terminals marked.
For the record - I haven’t ever had hands in that style of regulator but here’s a couple pictures. 
Seems field DF is the left
Ignition would basically be D+ on right
Center ground as last choice left and it seems to be in the same mounting plane as the other sheetmetal mounts.
Would really prefer if you could confirm that elsewhere. Hopefully Clay can chime in to confirm, I’m sure he has more time around 911 regulators than I.
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 22 2024, 02:56 PM
Well, the left terminal says FLD and the right one says IGN, so that might be a hint?
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 22 2024, 03:04 PM
Found these images, looks to be the same form factor
Posted by: mb911 Jun 22 2024, 03:45 PM
Well, the left terminal says FLD and the right one says IGN, so that might be a hint?
Ironically mine had no markings but Jeff Hines to the rescue. Thanks everyone. Parts are interesting these days
Posted by: mb911 Jun 22 2024, 03:46 PM
Well that is dumb not having terminals marked.
For the record - I haven’t ever had hands in that style of regulator but here’s a couple pictures.
Seems field DF is the left
Ignition would basically be D+ on right
Center ground as last choice left and it seems to be in the same mounting plane as the other sheetmetal mounts.
Would really prefer if you could confirm that elsewhere. Hopefully Clay can chime in to confirm, I’m sure he has more time around 911 regulators than I.
Bought mine from George so searched those pictures. The manufacturers have to do a little better and at least mark them
Posted by: mb911 Jun 22 2024, 03:48 PM
No markings at all?
I would EXPECT the dual terminal to be 12+ and the single to be DF but I'd want to verify that somehow.
I've never had to determine terminals on a regulator before.
You hit the WEIRD often...
Interested what @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143 or @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 has to add.
Can you open the case?
My assumption as well and surprised it’s up to me to decide lol
Posted by: worn Jun 22 2024, 04:14 PM
Well, the left terminal says FLD and the right one says IGN, so that might be a hint?
Yes, but FLD was in German.
As befits a German part.
Posted by: worn Jun 22 2024, 04:16 PM
Found these images, looks to be the same form factor
And also seems to add up to all of the other hints such as the terminal splitter. Is this a remote regulator?
Posted by: windforfun Jun 22 2024, 05:40 PM
Wow! It's really made in Germany? I don't believe it.
Posted by: 930cabman Jun 22 2024, 05:40 PM
I have not seen a mention of a B+ terminal
Posted by: mb911 Jun 22 2024, 06:01 PM
Holy crap guys did anyone look at the picture I provided? Mine has zero markings. Between this thread and my brain fart thread I am questioning if I should remain on this forum 
. I appreciate the help for those that did but I assure you I am not stupid enough to not look for markings before asking.
Sorry kind of butt hurt rant over
Posted by: windforfun Jun 22 2024, 06:13 PM
Welcome to the club. Sometimes we move too fast & overlook things. Just don't hit any deer when you're flying along in your hot little 914.
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 22 2024, 06:14 PM
. I appreciate the help for those that did but I assure you I am not stupid enough to not look for markings before asking.Sorry kind of butt hurt rant over
Sure, but did you look for markings?
PS: My first post was in response to Superhawks images that have labels on the parts
PPS: My second post was of parts that have the same form factor as yours and are marked
PPPS: At no point did i mean to question your stupidity or lack thereof
Posted by: mb911 Jun 22 2024, 06:23 PM
. I appreciate the help for those that did but I assure you I am not stupid enough to not look for markings before asking.Sorry kind of butt hurt rant over
Sure, but did you look for markings?
PS: My first post was in response to Superhawks images that have labels on the parts
PPS: My second post was of parts that have the same form factor as yours and are marked
PPPS: At no point did i mean to question your stupidity or lack thereof
I know you didn’t sorry for my tantrum. Maybe just some frustration coming through on the keyboard. I did double check for markings and even looked with magnifying lens lol. Either way I do appreciate you sharing the pictures it helped immensely. I was able to mount and get it installed this evening
Posted by: rgalla9146 Jun 23 2024, 09:03 AM
results ? 
Posted by: mb911 Jun 23 2024, 09:36 AM
results ?
Tomorrow doing family things today
Posted by: mb911 Jun 24 2024, 07:58 AM
Well it’s charging but only about 13 volts on the high side. I need to drive it around some and see what it’s like after some road use
Posted by: mb911 Jun 24 2024, 10:56 AM
There is some sort of short on my new gauge and wondering if there is some back feeding causing the issue. Gonna look into this as well
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 24 2024, 11:09 AM
Not sure if this may be related (since my engine is completely different) but i have to rev up the engine to above 4k ish rpm once to get the alternator to kick in and produce enough current to charge the battery.
If i just turn on the car and let it idle, it never gets that initial kick and just sits at 12V.
Posted by: mb911 Jun 24 2024, 12:14 PM
Not sure if this may be related (since my engine is completely different) but i have to rev up the engine to above 4k ish rpm once to get the alternator to kick in and produce enough current to charge the battery.
If i just turn on the car and let it idle, it never gets that initial kick and just sits at 12V.
Andy very possibly. So I just corrected a gauge issue but while doing that I tested the D+ lead vs the battery and there is a 1 volt drop between the 2. Hmm bad connection maybe? I will have to look around for that but so odd. Could that be the bulb itself with that much resistance?
Posted by: ClayPerrine Jun 24 2024, 12:27 PM
Not sure if this may be related (since my engine is completely different) but i have to rev up the engine to above 4k ish rpm once to get the alternator to kick in and produce enough current to charge the battery.
If i just turn on the car and let it idle, it never gets that initial kick and just sits at 12V.
That is a common problem with a 964/993 that has been converted to a single belt. The factory had the alternator spinning at a faster speed than the fan. A conversion to a single belt causes it to spin too slow at idle to get the alternator to start working. I had to tap the accelerator to get the alternator to kick in every time.
Posted by: mb911 Jun 24 2024, 01:40 PM
Minor update. Ohmed out the blue D+ wire back to the gauge. No measurable loss. The red/white switch 12v adjacent to that wire reads 1v less than the battery. I need to check that out next
Posted by: Superhawk996 Jun 24 2024, 06:59 PM
Minor update. Ohmed out the blue D+ wire back to the gauge. No measurable loss. The red/white switch 12v adjacent to that wire reads 1v less than the battery. I need to check that out next
Sounds like you are on the right track
Posted by: mb911 Jun 25 2024, 10:40 AM
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 so interesting enough with no fuel pump running there is no voltage loss. Gonna change out the ignition switch to be sure might need a relay on the pump
Posted by: Superhawk996 Jun 25 2024, 10:58 AM
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 so interesting enough with no fuel pump running there is no voltage loss. Gonna change out the ignition switch to be sure might need a relay on the pump
Good find
I can’t remember how much current fuel pump draws but should only be a couple amps - let’s say 5 amps? To get 1v of voltage drop across wiring would mean you have wiring with 0.2 ohms of resistance in it.
Agree ignition switch is a good 1st place to look but if it’s not there, you’ll need to track it back to wherever it resides. Worst case is that it’s a few smaller drops across wiring, terminal connections etc.
Is your fuel pump re-wired or are you running it off the relay board and OEM round relay back in engine compartment. Can’t remember what you did for the /6 conversion.
Posted by: mb911 Jun 25 2024, 11:16 AM
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 so interesting enough with no fuel pump running there is no voltage loss. Gonna change out the ignition switch to be sure might need a relay on the pump
Good find
I can’t remember how much current fuel pump draws but should only be a couple amps - let’s say 5 amps? To get 1v of voltage drop across wiring would mean you have wiring with 0.2 ohms of resistance in it.
Agree ignition switch is a good 1st place to look but if it’s not there, you’ll need to track it back to wherever it resides. Worst case is that it’s a few smaller drops across wiring, terminal connections etc.
Is your fuel pump re-wired or are you running it off the relay board and OEM round relay back in engine compartment. Can’t remember what you did for the /6 conversion.
I am not using a relay at all so just switched 12v but with switching to the 044 pump it maybe necessary now
Posted by: Superhawk996 Jun 25 2024, 11:31 AM
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 so interesting enough with no fuel pump running there is no voltage loss. Gonna change out the ignition switch to be sure might need a relay on the pump
Good find
I can’t remember how much current fuel pump draws but should only be a couple amps - let’s say 5 amps? To get 1v of voltage drop across wiring would mean you have wiring with 0.2 ohms of resistance in it.
Agree ignition switch is a good 1st place to look but if it’s not there, you’ll need to track it back to wherever it resides. Worst case is that it’s a few smaller drops across wiring, terminal connections etc.
Is your fuel pump re-wired or are you running it off the relay board and OEM round relay back in engine compartment. Can’t remember what you did for the /6 conversion.
I am not using a relay at all so just switched 12v but with switching to the 044 pump it maybe necessary now
Got it.
Yeah would definitely want that “battery” side of the D+ feed circuit to be reflecting full battery voltage over at the Gen light bulb (yellow highlighted wiring)
Posted by: mb911 Jun 25 2024, 11:34 AM
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=22428 so interesting enough with no fuel pump running there is no voltage loss. Gonna change out the ignition switch to be sure might need a relay on the pump
Good find
I can’t remember how much current fuel pump draws but should only be a couple amps - let’s say 5 amps? To get 1v of voltage drop across wiring would mean you have wiring with 0.2 ohms of resistance in it.
Agree ignition switch is a good 1st place to look but if it’s not there, you’ll need to track it back to wherever it resides. Worst case is that it’s a few smaller drops across wiring, terminal connections etc.
Is your fuel pump re-wired or are you running it off the relay board and OEM round relay back in engine compartment. Can’t remember what you did for the /6 conversion.
I am not using a relay at all so just switched 12v but with switching to the 044 pump it maybe necessary now
Got it.
Yeah would definitely want that “battery” side of the D+ feed circuit to be reflecting full battery voltage over at the Gen light bulb.
Yup so that is my plan. Just wish this 90% humidity and 90 plus degrees would go away for a few days to get this solved
Posted by: Superhawk996 Jun 25 2024, 11:38 AM
One quick thing to do: rotate fuse 9 and see if the voltage drop goes away.
I absolutely don’t miss Midwest heat & especially the humidity. I know how miserable it is.
Posted by: mb911 Jun 25 2024, 11:45 AM
One quick thing to do: rotate fuse 9 and see if the voltage drop goes away.
I absolutely don’t miss Midwest heat & especially the humidity. I know how miserable it is.
Sounds good will try that as well. Midway through the 911 ignition switch replacement. Heading to lake now for some boating and cooling down
Posted by: mb911 Jun 26 2024, 10:16 AM
Ok switch is changed out, checked and replaced any questionable grounds, ran a fuel pump relay(fused) along with the inertia switch, cleaned up the connections on the fuse panel and now all is well. What’s amazing is that I cleaned it a year or 2 ago. Thanks for all the help everyone
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