So what should I use? The guy at the local autobody place says Krylon and he didn't even sell it. I left in disbelief. So who's the idiot? Me because I won't take an "Expert's advice" or him because he doesn't know what he's talking about.
I'm still scratchin my head over that one.
Dave
Mine is getting powdercoated, along with the fan housing and the tranny cover tin thingy.
IMO Krylon won't be very durable. A catalyst activated paint would be better, powder coating would be the ultimate. Here's a reference for some powder coat company's.
http://www.plantfloor.com/regions/usa_nwr_metalworking_metalfinishing.htm
Just look in your yellow pages for powder coating...
I had 10 companies here in town.
One has an autoclave large enough to do cars! That would be cool!
Powder coating.
But if you don't decide to go that route - buy some paint... spray it on bare metal, and then splash fuel, carb cleaner, oil, degreaser, etc... all over the area.
Do it repeatedly... then scratch or scrape the area to check for durability.
Place in Chas. SC does whole cars, no more $$$ than paint.
M
I'd love to see pictures of that!
Damn, that link took a while...
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.com/
M
If you don't want to spring for powder coating then just use engine paint. I can't believe nobody is recomending this. Krylon? I'm prety sure it doesn't hold up to gasoline. Use engine paint. That's what it's made for. Sticks good and is pretty impervious to anything you splash around in the engine compartment.
-Ben M. (w/ bright red tin)
Talk to Korijo, he got some tins powder coated in Edmonds (i think) Looks great
Powder coat... there is a reason why the factory didnt spray paint them. I have never seen a engine with "Krylon" last past 2 years. The first time you want to degrease the engine.. you'll be hating yourself.
B
Craig Craft Powder Coating, in Mukilteo. They did all my bug stuff, too. From the tin to the seat frames AND seat springs.
dave, try Powder Coating Systems Inc, 109 S 25th St in Tacoma. about a block east of pac ave.
kevin
Redshift, that yellow powdercoated racer is a work of art, all the pics of it look too good!
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.com/products/911/index.htm#8-Body%20&%20Interior:
Only thing is you have to acid dip before you do it
that's awesome!
I dig it very much!!
Why not Ceramic coat them?
rich, i just had that same thought. think would thermal coating would keep the engine compartment cooler? lots of color choises too. the only problem i see is the heat cycling that the barrier requires to cure it. maybe not hot enough?
kevin
The quote to disassemble the car was hilarious. ($10k+) The quote to dip the car is steep. ($1.75/lb! Yikes!)
The quote to shoot the car (color/clear) seems very reasonable, and I like the part about it being drawn into places you can't see...
Color choices are not the best for me, and what happens when I want to paint it again?
M
Here's a tip for gloss black spray can paint. Durable, thick and heat resistant. Find Mercury Marine Mercurser Phantom Black spray paint. I bought some for refinishing my boat outdrive and the stuff is fantastic. I have used it on bare metal bead blasted suspension parts and I would not hesitate to use it on engine tin. You will have to find at a marine store that carries Mercruser parts. Dave H
I had all my tin plus the fan housing sandblasted and powdercoated for $150 at a place off 4thAVE south in Seattle. The only way to go and it lasts!
Geoff
Took the tin to a place in T town for powdercoating. I get it back next week. got the head back from Jack's Machine shop. It's all patched up good as new. Gerry and I got it back on the engine this afternoon. Kind of a practice run for the real thing when the wife opens up her purse. Just about wearing out my knees begging for the OK from the boss to do the rebuild. I planning but there sure is a lot to consider. At least i'll have a nice looking set of tin for an old oil burner.
Dave
I guess I missed something, what happened to the head??
Geoff
Geoff
Broken Sheet metal screws that hold the tin on. One I tried to get out with an Easy Out(Break).
That morphed into drill the ***##0@ sucker out. That was next to the intake but did not involve any of the machined surfaces. So Jack welded drilled and retapped the hole. The other one I didn't mess with so he TIG welded a small bolt to it, used heat and backed it out. Very cool. Anyway it provided Gerry and I a chance to practice with the topend.
Dave
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