So I got me a second 914, to drive while I finish restoring the "keeper". But it has dual webber 40's with issues.. It doesn't like to idle, and if I spray carb cleaner into some of the venturies it idles better, others not. Should I just pull them and rebuild them? Turning the adjustment screws doesn't seem to make much difference.
I'm trying to acertain whether or not it has the stock cam, if it does I'll probably go back to fuel injection.
The quickest way to get it working would be to swap an LT1 in there.
Andrew
the Weber's will work nicely on your motor.
clean the idle jets first.
change the fuel filter and clean the fuel inlet screens.
Make sure you know what the adjusting screws do before you start tweaking them
Do you need help?
KT
QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 2 2005, 07:13 PM) |
Should I just pull them and rebuild them? |
Those IDF's are notorious for clogged idle jets. Once you get new filters and get them good and cleaned out, they will tend to stay that way. But that can take a while.
Thanks for the info.. The PO says he has the haynes book for the carbs, so once I get that I should be ok.. It really roars at high RPM, it's just hosed at idle, so it sounds like clearing out the crud may help me.
The linkage is the sucky part.. it.. sucks! It has these two flimsy "L" brakets coming off the bottoms of the air cleaners, with a rod in between them. The geometry is so bad that the gas pedal is quite hard to push even with a new cable. I had to swap in the rebuilt pedal cluster I had ready for the LT1 because the throttle pivot thingie had come loose from the shaft at the braze.
Maybe I should just toss the LT1 in there.. for now.
It's gonna be a nice driver, methinks. I went over the underside with a fine toothed comb and didn't find any rust. Unfortunately, the body is another story.
I was sure I'd have gotten a TTIWWP by now.. but here's some pics anyways.
QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 2 2005, 10:22 PM) |
It's gonna be a nice driver, methinks. I went over the underside with a fine toothed comb and didn't find any rust. Unfortunately, the body is another story. I was sure I'd have gotten a TTIWWP by now.. but here's some pics anyways. |
QUOTE (Gint @ Oct 2 2005, 09:30 PM) |
Ouch! That ain't gonna rub out. |
PURPLE is faster than Yellow.
QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 2 2005, 08:13 PM) |
It doesn't like to idle, and if I spray carb cleaner into some of the venturies it idles better, others not. Should I just pull them and rebuild them? Turning the adjustment screws doesn't seem to make much difference. |
It's POIPLE!
Over GREEN!
BAH! It looks like a perfect candidate for a Chalon
QUOTE (Joseph Mills @ Oct 2 2005, 10:33 PM) |
Sounds like your linkage may need to be upgraded. Do you have a pic of it? |
Another:
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that linkage is laughable....look at the angle that throttle cable makes with the linkage
Here's the engine number.. any ideas what I've got? The PO thought it was a 1.8, but then it's been rebuilt, so who knows.
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QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 3 2005, 07:36 PM) |
that linkage is laughable....look at the angle that throttle cable makes with the linkage |
oh shit!
what's that crack....Z could give that crack a run for it's money, but isnt that like on the block?
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 3 2005, 07:42 PM) |
oh shit! what's that crack....Z could give that crack a run for it's money, but isnt that like on the block? |
oh
okay!
now about that A4000T .......
QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Oct 2 2005, 11:33 PM) |
BAH! It looks like a perfect candidate for a Chalon |
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 3 2005, 07:45 PM) |
now about that A4000T ....... |
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Oct 3 2005, 07:46 PM) | ||
LMFAO.... you need to clean my laptop screen now |
QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 3 2005, 07:52 PM) | ||||
Actually.. some bontempi flares would solve a good chunk of this.. |
QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 3 2005, 08:51 PM) | ||
...and about that $500 .... |
The cowl we cut out will work nicely to fix that. I have a spare, good pedal cluster, and you should look at the linkage that's on my 2.0. You're welcome to try it out before you have to buy another one. I'd be interested in trading for that backpad, too. I even have a couple of decent later ones to replace it with, along with a second seat.
CB linkage kit. its the bomb dot com
QUOTE (markb @ Oct 3 2005, 08:02 PM) |
The cowl we cut out will work nicely to fix that. I have a spare, good pedal cluster, and you should look at the linkage that's on my 2.0. You're welcome to try it out before you have to buy another one. I'd be interested in trading for that backpad, too. I even have a couple of decent later ones to replace it with, along with a second seat. |
That'd be a 1973 ROW 1.7 with an EA code 0-68 block.
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm#parts
Actually the connecting rod supports "look" adequate. Do they flex?
As was pointed out, you need to adjust the "angle" of your throttle cable bracket to allow the cable to make a straight line to the linkage arm.
You could upgrade the down linkage to heim joints and remove slop. If you decide to replace all the linkage, check with Dave at Triad. They offer a nice kit.
I would definitely remove and clean those carbs! And while doing so, spend some time inspecting all the jets for damage from PO abuse and make sure they all match in size.
QUOTE (Travis Neff @ Oct 3 2005, 11:12 PM) |
That'd be a 1973 ROW 1.7 with an EA code 0-68 block. http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm#parts |
so this is a RoW car? or just the engine??
b
QUOTE (Joseph Mills @ Oct 4 2005, 06:48 AM) |
Actually the connecting rod supports "look" adequate. Do they flex? As was pointed out, you need to adjust the "angle" of your throttle cable bracket to allow the cable to make a straight line to the linkage arm. You could upgrade the down linkage to heim joints and remove slop. If you decide to replace all the linkage, check with Dave at Triad. They offer a nice kit. I would definitely remove and clean those carbs! And while doing so, spend some time inspecting all the jets for damage from PO abuse and make sure they all match in size. |
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 4 2005, 08:19 AM) |
so this is a RoW car? or just the engine?? b |
QUOTE (V6914 @ Oct 2 2005, 09:58 PM) |
PURPLE is faster than Yellow. |
Are there additional springs on the throttle linkage? Mine had additional springs that you could attach to make it return (better/faster???) but it could make for a really stiff pedal.
QUOTE (mikelsr @ Oct 4 2005, 09:58 AM) |
Are there additional springs on the throttle linkage? Mine had additional springs that you could attach to make it return (better/faster???) but it could make for a really stiff pedal. |
that angle will give you most of your problems.....
I'd weld a bracket or something to the droplink .......
i'm just guessin though.
b
Are you talking about the return spring on the carb? I am talking about an extra spring on the linkage. Mine didn't need it. I don't have a pic handy to show you mine. But if we are talking the about the same thing, disconnect them and see if that helps.
Mike
QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 4 2005, 09:22 AM) |
Where's the best (cheapest?) place to get a webber rebuild kit? .. |
what i don't care for on the cb linkage is the centering springs on the crossbar. with the triad you can set the side freeplay when the engine is hot and the droplink angularity is maintained throughout the action. you might have to modify the cross bar length on the cb. the "they're exspensive" mind set on the triad sure does confuse me. people spend lots of dough on superfluous items yet balk at steping up to the plate on a key item for the carbs. the throttle cable bracket (included) keeps the cable end at an elevation that eliminates an upward angle that can add to the bind in my book. you can put the droplinks on the front of the carbs where they are easy to get to. just mhos.
k
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