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Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 07:49 AM

I want to make a good showing at my first SCCA National Runoffs so I decided to upgrade my backup engine. (I don't have a real race engine right now.) I'm installing my 94mm Nickies set


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Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 07:50 AM

and the JE pistons with stock dome shape.


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Posted by: Tom Perso Aug 30 2003, 07:52 AM

*Drool*

Chris - I held the first EVER set of Nikkies, they went on Shad's car - I help him build his motor! They are amazing pieces of equipment. Very light!

And you do nice exhaust work too, my friend...

Later,
Tom

Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 07:52 AM

I got some stainless valves and decided it was time I started learning how to port my own heads.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 07:54 AM

I'm having a lot of fun doing this.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 07:55 AM

It's important to know where NOT to remove material


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Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 07:57 AM

Oops! It's a good thing I know a talented welder


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Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 08:03 AM

Thanks Tom. I'm looking forward to building the header for Shad's first set of Porkies heads with 2" primaries. (if he ever finishes them)

Posted by: Part Pricer Aug 30 2003, 08:11 AM

Nice stuff!

Let's see, the Runoffs are in about two weeks at Mid-Ohio right? I'll bet there are a few club members in that area that would be willing to help you push that thing off the trailer.

Posted by: URY914 Aug 30 2003, 12:56 PM

Chris,
Tell me about your fan set up. I've read the discription on you website, but what are the advantages?
More air?
Lighter than the stock fan and housing?
Drains less HP?

What gives?

Wish I was going to the Runoffs. Good Luck!!

Paul

Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 02:38 PM

The Corvair fan setup wasn't my idea, but when I saw it I was immediately attracted to the design.
It is way lighter than the stock system and most of the features of the stock system are superfluous on a race car. I don't have the stock oil cooler or the heat exchangers or an alternator. I don't need to preheat the engine either.
I don't know if it actually cools better or draws less power - wish I had known Raby was doing a comparative test of cooling systems recently. I would have made an extra effort to supply him with one of my setups for his testing. I do know it works fine at keeping head temps under control, and I have won races. So it isn't drawing too much power for me at this stage.
One possible shortcoming is that it must run at 1 to 1 speed off the crankshaft, but so does the stock system.
I never liked the idea of using the modified 911 cooling setup. For one reason the alternator is the fan hub. SCCA rules require the alternator, if used, to be in the stock location. Also it draws a lot of power and pushes too much air, but not uniformly over all 4 cylinders.
If I had known about the DTM when I built my Prod car, I might have gone that route. However I really like the low profile of the flat fan, and I am reminded of 917 cooling systems with the horizontal fan.
Thanks!

Posted by: redshift Aug 30 2003, 02:51 PM

The more I see guys tearing their engines apart, the more I think, "Gee, I could fail at that!".



I like the hz cooling, do you know of anyone with it on a 914/6? I have a friend with a 935 that has it, but it's crammed in there with too much other stuff to imagine it fitting in a 914.


M

Posted by: J P Stein Aug 30 2003, 05:45 PM

Good luck, Chris.
What class? gt3?4?5?

Posted by: URY914 Aug 30 2003, 08:15 PM

chris,
When you run without the alternater is just a matter of taking it off? There is probably 20 pounds there. Do you run a racing dry cell long life battery?

Paul

Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 30 2003, 09:14 PM

F Production. There are 5 914s entered this year, out of about 38 cars. Three of them are from my division (Northeast).


The alternator is long gone. I don't have much wiring in the car Paul, no relay board either. The car starts with the same column mounted key switch that the car came with. I cut down the stock fuse panel to 3 fuses and mounted it in plain sight on my auxillary gauge panel. The fuel pressure and oil temp gauges are mechanical. The only significant draws on the battery are: starter, fuel pump, ignition and brake lights. I have been using a Pertronix and Bosch blue coil, but I'm switching to a Mallory Unilite with Mallory coil. I've heard that MSD type ignitions don't like running on low voltage. My voltage is typically around 11v, except right after a recharge.
The battery is a regular 914 battery (group 42?), mounted inside a marine container. I have a big grey disconnect on wires from the battery that hooks up to a connector on my charger. I usually run the charger for 15-30 min after each on-track session. I killed the battery at a PCA autocross one time with two drivers. Too many times using the starter.

I have not replaced any panels with fiberglas yet, still have the stock windshield, and will have 60 lbs of ballast on the passenger floor to meet the minimum of 2020 with driver (approx. 230lb). The car has almost perfect left to right balance now.


I've seen pics (PPBBS last year maybe) of a gear driven horizontal fan for a 6 but don't know much about them, and haven't seen one up close. I did look at the 917 fans at the first Rennsport Reunion. I think the drive shaft comes up through the center of the crankcase on them.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Aug 30 2003, 09:20 PM

Yep. We ran a FAT 911 upright setup with a gutted 911 alternator and just plug the car in between rounds to the charger. I also learned to take a jump box with me to grid so the car doesnt really use its own power to start when the 2 or 5 minute warning sounds and we need to fire it.


B

Posted by: URY914 Aug 31 2003, 05:36 AM

I've also striped all the wiring down to the minimum. And I have three fuses in a marine type fuse block. Fuel pump and gauges are all that I run, no brake lights (autox only). I still have the circuit board. If I remove the alt. I guess I could remove the circuit board, but I'd need to keep the voltage reg somehow. I plan on running a dry cell lightweight battery like this one below. I lot lighter (15 lbs) than a stock battery. I'll install some of those quick connect jumper posts like the drag race guys use if I need to start it on the grid.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Aug 31 2003, 07:31 AM

The voltage regulator is useless without an alternator since the voltage will never be much above 12v and will drop a bit as the battery loses charge. The reg. won't help keep the voltage up. Just ditch the whole shebang.
Using a jump box will be very important for starting if your battery is much smaller than stock.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Aug 31 2003, 07:32 AM

when my GTI's alternator failed i drove home from an autocross on just the battery - 3 hrs. used the brake as little as possible (handbrake mostly), shut down everything optional, didn't use turn signals. basically just fuel pump and ignition - i think i had enough airspeed that the rad fans didn't cycle in.

10V indicated when i got home, everything running just fine. you might be surprised...

Posted by: Brad Roberts Aug 31 2003, 11:18 AM

MSD quotes (8volts) to run their ignition.

We talk about running a battery dead...and some of the drag cars I worked on had 16 volt ignition systems and would drain the 12 volt battery in about 3 seconds when all the Nitrous solenoids and gas solenoids where activated along with a both fuel pumps. Crazy stuff running a 16 volt battery on the ignition system. We had to run a alternator.


B

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 3 2003, 10:46 PM

I finished prepping my heads. The combustion chambers have about 38.5 cc volume.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 3 2003, 10:48 PM

and installed my special valve springs to check the piston to valve clearance.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 3 2003, 10:49 PM

The intake valves interfered by about 80 thousandths so I made a fixture to cut reliefs.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 3 2003, 10:50 PM

Here are the finished pistons. With .040" deck height the compression ratio will be about 11.4 to 1.


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Posted by: seanery Sep 3 2003, 11:02 PM

look nice!

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 3 2003, 11:08 PM

I temporarily installed the heads and checked the rocker geometry. I ordered a set of custom chrome-moly pushrods 1mm shorter than stock to optimize the valve lift and minimize valve guide side pressure. I am using swivel feet and recessed them into the rocker so there will be some adjustment available.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 3 2003, 11:09 PM

I thought about using my specially modified rockers, but will probably save them for the next engine.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 3 2003, 11:12 PM

The ends of the valve adjusters have to be shortened so they don't hit the valve covers. I still have to check the rings to make sure the gap is correct. Then I'll clean everything and assemble. Hopefully the engine will be done this weekend and back in the car before my dyno appointment Tuesday morning.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Sep 4 2003, 01:05 AM

You should at least knock the casting flash off the other rockers and polish them up.


I see you like to flycut to the point that the combustion chamber becomes one with the holes for the exhaust studs....LOL


Looks great man. Should run like a champ.


B

Posted by: crash914 Sep 4 2003, 05:32 AM

Hey Chris. what are you using to repair the heads with? Can you use a small Tig for the aluminum? I got one at work and have not tried it yet for aluminum....I do understand that you need high frequency though.....

When you get to the run0ffs, look up Bruce Allen from New Hampshire....He was running as one of my early instructors and now has a new respect for the 914.....He is running formula continental I think.....

Good luck!!! Herb

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 4 2003, 06:20 AM

Brad,
Yeah, I am working on the rockers more today. They will be better looking before long, but I'm not going to lighten them much.
This was my first time filling the back of the stud hole. I don't think I actually flycut deep enough to hit them, but took precautionary measures just the same.

Herb,
You need at least 150 amps of AC with continuous high frequency to make the heat required to weld thick sections of aluminum like heads or crankcases. I have read that some new machines work well with DC current for aluminum but haven't seen it in operation. Aluminum welds so differently from steel and takes mucho practice to do it well.
I don't see Bruce on the final entry list. Only Phil Lombardi from New Hampshire, #33FC.

Thanks.

Posted by: jdogg Sep 4 2003, 06:34 AM

Chris, have you finished your oil cooler ducting? How about a pic of the finished product.....

Posted by: maf914 Sep 4 2003, 06:39 AM

Chris,

Thanks for all the great photos. Nice work. Now, with your and Brad's comments, I understand how a deep flycut can get into the exhaust studs. Jake had explained that to me but I didn't really visualize it before.

Best of luck at the run-offs. I wish I was going. A good friend of mine from Virginia is running a car for his son in FV, Bill and Justin Barker, and they wanted me to join their group. I should have planned better!

Mike

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 4 2003, 06:40 AM

It's not quite finished yet, but here's a good look:


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Posted by: Part Pricer Sep 4 2003, 06:45 AM

Excuse my ignorance but...wouldn't it be better to have the intake ducts lower on the car. I seem to remember that hot air rises. It seems to me that you would be creating undue turbulence with the hot air attempting to exit where the cool air is coming in. Would the cool air ever get to the cooler?

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 4 2003, 06:57 AM

Paul, both those ducts are inlets and in a high pressure area on the front of the car. The primary outlet is directly below the cooler - the two plugs in the floor are removed, as well as the small holes in the front of the trunk which are behind the airdam, therefore in a low pressure area. As far as heat rising, it won't have much choice with the ram-air effect at 100mph.
I'm somewhat constrained by rules, which is why I'm changing the previous configuration in the first place. Even removing the floor plugs may be somewhat debatable as to legality. BTW, I'm not allowed to duct the exit air, or at least extremely limited.

Posted by: URY914 Sep 4 2003, 07:04 AM

What sorta HP are you getting?
And what is your red line or shift RPM?

Great pixs

Paul

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 4 2003, 07:17 AM

I'll post that after my dyno session next Tuesday. I'm hoping for 110-120hp at the flywheel for this combo. I'm not using a race cam, and this will become my third tier engine when I have the funds to assemble an all out screamer and a primary backup as well.
I was shifting at about 6200 before the upgrades, with redline at 6500.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Sep 4 2003, 11:45 AM

Maf.. this is exactly why I shoot pics. I can talk all day... but to show you is where you will learn the most.


Chris.. I may have a cam for you on the next engine (the cam) you could run the LN lifters against it and build out from there. Your new shift chip will be 8k and you will need much bigger cooler(s). The one you have now just barely cools our stock 2.0 engines.


B

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 7 2003, 11:22 AM

Brad,
I have a couple of Elgin cams designed just for my application. One of them works up to 8k. But, I'm open to suggestions.


I did a little more head work on the milling machine. I like to use an aircraft CHT sensor which requires a special hole.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 7 2003, 11:23 AM

Here's the head being drilled.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 7 2003, 11:25 AM

The block is ready for the top end assembly.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 7 2003, 11:26 AM

I think I have everything clean and ready, so here goes!


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Posted by: seanery Sep 7 2003, 11:30 AM

Are all those pully's and angles for the belt inefficient?

Posted by: rhodyguy Sep 7 2003, 12:00 PM

chris, got a picture of your carb linkage installed? what's the brand? looks pretty stout.

kevin

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 7 2003, 09:10 PM

nope.

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 7 2003, 09:13 PM

Assembly complete. Installation tomorrow. Dyno Tuesday.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 7 2003, 09:15 PM

The linkage was purchased with a set of 40IDFs back in the '80s by my brother Charley. It came from Red Lion in CA. (don't think they are around anymore)

Posted by: Aaron Cox Sep 7 2003, 09:52 PM

red lion? could it have been red-line? red line is like the west coast weber distributor

Posted by: Brad Roberts Sep 8 2003, 12:17 AM

Chris.. dont mean to be a nit pick.. but you dont *really* run rubber tranny mounts do you ??



B

Posted by: redshift Sep 8 2003, 12:40 AM

Man! It's cool! That looks cool!



M

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 8 2003, 05:31 AM

I switched back to them after getting pissed for the last time at the POS Weltmeister solid mounts.
The front motor mounts are aluminum blocks.
I might have a pair of 911 (914 sport) mounts somewhere.
I'm not comfortable with the thought of solid mounts at both ends. (Maybe I should just get over it.)

Aaron, yes it was red Lion. I think they advertised in VW and Porsche magazine back in those days.

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 8 2003, 05:36 AM

Thanks! It had better go like stink too, or I'm gonna be very depressed.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Sep 8 2003, 09:37 AM

I gotcha. The Weltmeister plastic crap does suck (they compress too esily). We run aluminum blocks.

Man.. that fan shroud looks COOL.

I'm a little concerned that you dont have enough crank case ventilation. Every EP/FP car I have seen has a huge radiator style hose going into the top of the block and into a breather box mounted in the trunk.

B

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 8 2003, 12:55 PM

There's a 3/4"id hose from both valve covers and a -10an line from the top of the case. They all go into a custom aluminum box filled with fuel cell foam in the trunk that has a breather element on top. There's never any oil residue in the trunk. Also the dry sump pump helps pull pressure out of the case. The an line from the top of the case is also an automatic drain back feature.
My plan is to run a 3 stage external pump to pull on the valve covers and scavenge the case, and switch back to a single stage pump in the stock location.

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 8 2003, 01:11 PM

Here's a pic of the breather tank


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 8 2003, 01:12 PM

and the return line.


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Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 8 2003, 08:01 PM

IT RUNS!
I timed it to 33 deg total advance. I don't know much about the Mallory distributor yet so I'll probably have to fiddle with it a bit more.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Sep 8 2003, 10:38 PM

Great NEWS Chris I only noticed one -10 line at the oil filler area...thanks for clearing that up for me. You nailed the hot ticket.. use the scavenge from the dry sump setup to pull a vacuum on the engine.



B

Posted by: campbellcj Sep 8 2003, 11:00 PM

Looks sweet Chris! Almost makes me miss the Type4 (almost...nah)


So where does one get truly solid trans mounts i.e. the alloy blocks? I was appalled when I ordered "solid" mounts and received these Welt things which are chunks of urethane or something.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Sep 8 2003, 11:36 PM

HPH stocks them.. or you can make your own from 1.5 inch square tube and 45 degree angles cut on each end with 3 holes..

Nevermind. I'll bring some down for you on Friday.


B

Posted by: ChrisReale Sep 9 2003, 12:02 AM

Tarett has em also for $100 a set

Posted by: Brad Roberts Sep 9 2003, 12:18 AM

Oh yeah.. but they are for a 911. He would have to drill the holes out.


B