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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Painting Wheel Wells and Engine Bay

Posted by: Britain Smith Sep 2 2003, 11:06 AM

I started removing all the nasty road grime and undercoating from the wheel wells and under the car this weekend with a hand grinder fitted with a coarse wire bit. It will take quite a while to cover the entire car, but it is worth it IMHO. I also removed the sound insulation material from the engine bay and started grinding that area also.

My Question:

-What do you all recommend on using to repaint both the underbody of the car and the engine bay?

I was thinking on POR-15 for the underbody and wheel wells, will this look good under there and hold up to the elements? What about the engine compartment? Will POR-15 withstand the heat? I would like to paint the engine bay possibly red, what paint is good for this?

-Britain

IPB Image

Posted by: Britain Smith Sep 2 2003, 11:06 AM

Engine Bay:

IPB Image

Posted by: Britain Smith Sep 2 2003, 11:07 AM

Engine Bay Frame Rail

IPB Image

Posted by: Brad Roberts Sep 2 2003, 11:16 AM

Damn. You have a long way to go.

I say you have the wheel wells/engine compartment shot the same color as the car. Forget the Por15.


B

Posted by: Britain Smith Sep 2 2003, 11:24 AM

What about protecting the seems? I am removing a crappy rubber spray that I put on there, the factor coating stuff, seem sealer crap, and some paint in some areas. To make matters worse, my arm goes to sleep under the car. It will take me a while, but I think it is worth it.

Do you think I should removed the suspension components to get all those areas also? The engine bay is going to look awesome when I am done with it...especially with the carbon fiber shroud.

-Britain

Posted by: kafermeister Sep 2 2003, 12:43 PM

QUOTE(Britain Smith @ Sep 2 2003, 01:06 PM)
I was thinking on POR-15 for the underbody and wheel wells, will this look good under there and hold up to the elements? What about the engine compartment? Will POR-15 withstand the heat?

IIRC, POR-15 will withstand almost anything...eccpt UV. It needs a top coat to protect it from the sun.

Me thinks that for work *under* the car, a sand blaster wouldn't be such a bad idea. Try using oven cleaner on the undercoating....then the sand blaster to remove rust/paint.

Rick

Posted by: boxstr Sep 2 2003, 01:00 PM

Hell if you are going to that much work, polish the wheel wells and the engine bay, Or give it a machined finish.
CCLINITLOOKSGOOD

Posted by: FEF Sep 2 2003, 01:55 PM

For my last 3 projects I've used POR15 and http://www.koolseal.com/PRODUCTS/D40319.htm on my wheel wells and underbody.

YMMV, But I can say that I've been very pleased with the protection, and sound dampening. The engine bay may be another issue, though. I don't see the Kool Patch doing as well there. I might just go with the gray or silver POR 15. That might keep the engine bay brighter.

I'm not using anything but Kool Patch from now on, I can say that. Put on laytex gloves, grab a hand full of goop and slather in on. Using gloves, I was able to get into places brushes couldn't get to.

It's another option.

Posted by: J P Stein Sep 2 2003, 02:40 PM

Etching primer, then any color you want. Ethc primer is now available in rattle cans. Get the gud stuff at an Auto paint store.

Posted by: swood Sep 2 2003, 03:18 PM

I'm gearing up to do the same, but is the removal of all that paint necessary? The only rust I have is around the battery tray. A light sanding will take the sound pad adhesive off, then I figured to shoot a coat of good auto etching primer then color. But I really don't want to do what Brian is doing. I want to drive the mutha before my kids claim it!

Posted by: Britain Smith Sep 2 2003, 03:55 PM

I have absolutely no rust...I am doing this to clean up the underside of the car and the wheel wells. If I were to paint them red, what kind of paint should I look into?

-Britain

Posted by: Korijo Sep 2 2003, 05:59 PM

Wesco can put factory colors into rattle cans. $10 a can plus cost of paint.

I'm gonna Por15 mine, then Tie Coat primer (special Por15 product), then factory Olympic Blue.


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