I am hoping to build a good, solid, higher performance Type 4 which will be used as a daily driver, touring car and perhaps an occasional AX. I have some questions.
1. Are all type 4 engine cases identical? If so, why are "GA" cases preferable?
2. What practical difference is there between a 78.4 stroke crank and an 80mm crank--since the 80mm seems to be more prevalent and a little less expensive?
3. Which is the most preferable bore--94mm, 96mm or 103/4mm?
4. Is there any practical difference between standard 2.0 sized crank journals and chevy sized?
5. Can 1.8 heads be "massaged" enough for decent performance?
6. Pure speculation--What kind of HP might I expect out of an engine with: 80mm stroke, 96mm bore, a moderate cam, re-worked 1.8 heads (8.5 or 9:1CR) and carbs?
Thanks for any answers you can give
TomL
What kind of budget do you have set aside? That will dictate how things progress and what kind of horsepower you can expect.
Someone needs a RAT engine kit.
Guess work= Non existant.
All type 4 cases are basically the same:
Early cases don't have the ledge inside for the windage tray
Bus and 411 cases have a different oil filler setup and oil dipstick
GA cases have the oil temp sender inthe bottom plus is milled out so the sender fits prefectly
The best way to get to a high hp daily driver engine is buy a Raby kit as its great setup combo-either a 2056cc or 2270cc.
78.4 or 80mm stroke cranks with the 2.0l rods isn't the best setup as the bearings are smallish and no modern type bearings are made for it.
96mm steel cylinders are fine, not so with 103mm steel as they warp fast so NIkkies are the hot ticket if you want to go big.
1.8L heads from HAM/Raby are made to be as nice as the 2.0L 914 ones.
Wild guess - hmm, 130-140hp without proper setup combo and guess tossing parts together.
Save yourself a lot brain damage. Get a 2056 kit from Jake and be done with it. DO NOT GO CHEAP! You will pay for it in the end. BTDT
Bill Shaffer
Bill speaks from experience...
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1. Are all type 4 engine cases identical? If so, why are "GA" cases preferable? |
QUOTE |
2. What practical difference is there between a 78.4 stroke crank and an 80mm crank--since the 80mm seems to be more prevalent and a little less expensive? |
QUOTE |
3. Which is the most preferable bore--94mm, 96mm or 103/4mm? |
QUOTE |
4. Is there any practical difference between standard 2.0 sized crank journals and chevy sized? |
QUOTE |
5. Can 1.8 heads be "massaged" enough for decent performance? |
QUOTE |
6. Pure speculation--What kind of HP might I expect out of an engine with: 80mm stroke, 96mm bore, a moderate cam, re-worked 1.8 heads (8.5 or 9:1CR) and carbs? |
I am hoping to get out with a parts cost of $3500 (+ or -). I am I in the ball park?
TomL
Not without cutting corners, not for a stroker engine.
You could build a 130 HP 2056 kit for that, but thats about it with a quality result and no shortcuts.
"See details 2056 Porsche 914 Engine Kit-40050
If you are interested in this kit, please email us and we will be happy to reply with an attachment listing all of the components contained in this kit.
NOTICE: After receiving shipment of your engine kit packages, please inventory each package using the invoice included in the owner's...
Our price: $3,110.08"
From the Type4store (Jake Raby)
Forget 80mm stroker cranks and all that......or for alittle more.
See details 2270 Porsche 914 Performance Engine Kit #40066
Forget that six cylinder conversion for your 914! Keep that car lighter by upgrading your original 4 cylinder engine to one of our MassIVe 2270cc packages with an engine kit from The Type 4 Store. With this engine installed in your 914, you'll make the six cylinder guys wonder how you passed them...
Our price: $4,604.13
maybe, for a 2056. if you have a good set of carbs (correct venturi size). if you have a proper set of heads. if you have a good set of 94mm cyls ready to be opened up. if you already have a good ignition. you may or may not need a new flywheel(+$). you may or may not need a new clutch package(+$$$). $4400 to $5k is probably closer, dependant on what serviceable items you may have. then, when you are doing your online order, you opt for a few upgrades because it's only "a few dollars more", and the budget is blown to hell. been there, doing that.
k
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=42456
do this..... i have.
added some carbs which mark got from jake, sent some ignition stuff and other sundry bits and all done.
only brain damage is waiting and that is easy..... well.... maybe..
cheers,
QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Mar 31 2006, 10:02 AM) |
"See details 2056 Porsche 914 Engine Kit-40050 If you are interested in this kit, please email us and we will be happy to reply with an attachment listing all of the components contained in this kit. NOTICE: After receiving shipment of your engine kit packages, please inventory each package using the invoice included in the owner's... Our price: $3,110.08" From the Type4store (Jake Raby) Forget 80mm stroker cranks and all that......or for alittle more. See details 2270 Porsche 914 Performance Engine Kit #40066 Forget that six cylinder conversion for your 914! Keep that car lighter by upgrading your original 4 cylinder engine to one of our MassIVe 2270cc packages with an engine kit from The Type 4 Store. With this engine installed in your 914, you'll make the six cylinder guys wonder how you passed them... Our price: $4,604.13 |
QUOTE (TomL @ Mar 30 2006, 03:15 PM) |
2. What practical difference is there between a 78.4 stroke crank and an 80mm crank--since the 80mm seems to be more prevalent and a little less expensive? |
Thanks to everybody who has taken your time to respond to my inquiry. Your input is very helpful to me. I am in the research/information-gathering stage. I figure the better informed I am the better decision I can make about how I want to spend my money and what kind of risk I am willing to take (relying on my own skills or someone elses).
Tom
Dave
My 78.4mm DPR crank with type 1 journals needs some clearancing. The webbing at the top of the case has to be clearanced. The case at the top needed to be thinned about a mm and the cam is a reduced base circle. I would have to look up the diameter. The clearance between the crank and cam is approximately 1.5 mm. at it's closest so, I suspect that could be narrowed a bit.
Interestingly, I had 2 cam failures with ceramic lifters (I'm the 1 and only and I want to be in Ripley's). The reason for that was that the ramp rates for that cam grind on a reduced base circle were excessive. We kept the same base circle, took out 0.016" of lift at the intake valve and 0.004" on the exhaust and added 4 degrees of duration. Lift is now just under 1/2". All is now well and I can't tell any difference for sure. I think I can feel the cam come in around 3000 where the other cam was more seemless but who knows. It works now and I'm happy.
At any rate there are limitations with added stroke.
Dave
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