So I've decided to confront a few rust bubbles on my car, before painting it (the car looked great, but I never liked the wavy sides due to poor prep and no blocking).
If you can't stomach this first photo, please don't continue...
pete
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That came from here...
Where?
Let me Guess ...Sails
Crap, I can't size some of the photos down small enough easily. But you guessed it on the sail panel. I'll load what I can now, do the rest later.
This is the left rear corner, has been bothering me for 17 years now (since the car was last painted)! Note the "RUST?" marking. Perhaps I was expecting the Easter Bunny?
pete
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Other sail panel....
Two pinholes + the factory hole for the trim strip.
pete
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Two more pinholes in the right front fender, apparently the result of a small hole from rust in the cowl gutter, which allowed moisture into this area where you cannot get to otherwise. Short of taking off the fender, we are still thinking about the best plan of attack.
One is to drill holes in the wheelwell near this area, get a better look (possibly with a boroscope), try our best to neutralize the rust, then seal the cowl gutter up.
REALLY do not want to remove the fender, though I know it is the "best" way to go....
pete
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There's a wrong way to fill in the U.S. sidemarkers, which is what the last guy did.
Tacked a metal square in place, then DENTED the fender in, and Bondo'd over the area...
pete
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And then there's a right way to do it...
pete
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Sorry for the sideways jpgs.... don't mean to make you dizzy.
They are right side up in the files!?!
Last small enough photo for now...
Taking the chance to get rid of the antenna.
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When you start to get discouraged be happy your not the owner of this car.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=80655
You've started on the journey... no turning back now.
Paint shop will make the final decision on what to do from here. The rest of the car looks very, very good.
And, yes, I know looks can be deceiving.
The shop working on it now is a race shop at the end of the street with a good metalworker. I am listening to him carefully. My guess is the paint shop, when it gets the car, will sand down to the last fill-coat, which is pretty thick. But maybe they'll tell me they want to take it down to metal. We'll see. As it's being painted in SF, I am not crazy about down to metal...
The car was last painted in 1991. I thought that was the only time in the booth, but it looks like it was painted once before that. Besides four trouble spots, the 1991 paint has held up very, VERY well. Too bad the guy didn't block the sides...
Right now, I'm leaning towards sanding it down to the fill coat and repainting it once more.
But we'll see.
pete
I don't know how much truth there is to this, but I have been told not to use a sharpie pen on the paint or metal on the car. My painter told me that he has seen cases where the ink bleeds through the new paint..
Yes it will if you paint over it. Make sure it's sanded off thoroughly.
BTW Pete, if you didn't already know, the first three pics with the pin holes are where the factory put their 'seam sealer' underneath. After many years, the seam sealer shrank and/or cracked and the water began seeping into those areas.
Good luck on the refinishing and painting, keep us informed...
-- Rob
Pete,
Make sure that your shop does a thorough search for rust. I thought my '70/4 was pretty nice, but the ravages of time, salty winter roads and latent moisture ultimately caused more damage than was readily apparent.
Paul
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Dude... someone vandalized your car with a majik-marker!!
I was expecting to see "Remember to pick up milk from the store" on a fender.
Actually, it reminded me of how plastic surgeons mark up a patient in pre-op. Smart, because sometimes it's difficult communicating with body
shops and paint folks. Or sometimes you forget exactly were the wavey (that you can only see under certain lighting) was.
Good luck with everything Pete! Thanks for sharing.
Jen
Hey Jenny, long time no see!
Here's the result of six hours of disassembly, plus continuing rust repairs and metal work...
pete
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"I *am* a Porsche reflector" holes removed...
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and, while we're at it, antenna be gone...
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...
but by far the worst damage is this.... I wish I'd got after this sooner (first spotted it festering in the 1990s) but I am glad I didn't let it go much longer...
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After melting the factory gunk (it is TOUGH stuff, unlike the foam by the taillights), the patch will go in place...
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engine lid in trunk, ready to go to paint shop...
given what I've seen on a lot of 914s, I went into this gig pretty scared. So far, it's not so bad. Longitudinals seem to be VERY solid, the firewall is good, and we're not finding indications of rust anywhere else. But I'll be going over the car VERY carefully before sending it to paint.
For now, that's all. Front trunk seal gutter is pretty good, with just two TINY holes at the top corners. I think I'll kill the rust, prep them, and then make sure to seal them off well with the new trunk seal.
Re-sealing the areas where repairs have been done are scaring me a bit, however....
pete
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Mines time is coming one day. There are severalareas infected with subutanious scars on the verge of breaking fourth in an alien-like explosion, too gruesome to describe
Yours will be purt'-near perfect for a good while now, I thnk.
What color is your car Pete? I really like it.
I too am a bit of a back to original purist. But some Bahia cars look a bit pink to my eye. The Audi red (I think it is Toronado) on the later cars turns my head whenever I see one. I especially like it on the Audi cabrios. Your car appears to be the same color. Hard call. It would keep me awake at night trying to decide.
Keep that Toranado red - it looks great on your car.
a pair wearing Bahia Red......
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Thanks very much for posting that!!! I gotta find more pics of Bahia... time to do a search.
But, of course, trying to judge a real red on a computer screen is like...
pete
I've owned both colors these shots were taken with the same camera, but different years... Both cars were orig paint, 911 "mostly" original/
My Bahia 73.5 T
And my Toronado Red GTI
Pete, PM me you email, and I'll send you both gallery's of each car.
Ferg
Another sample of Bahia Red... I had this car painted at a local paint shop last year, using DuPont single stage acrylic-enamel... so my recommendation is original paint.
-- Rob
So some progress has been made...
First up are better pics of the deletion of the rear reflector holes and the antenna hole.
pete
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Next up... the targa bar and LR fender by the taillight.
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Here's where things get interesting.
After scraping all the foam and rubberized sealer out of the LR fender corner as seen above, I can show you the first photo below, as seen from the wheelwell. You can just make out the black rectangular patch in there, as well as the rest of the surface rust hiding out in there, stewing with the foam.
In the next photo, you can see the same area on the right fender. When I initially poked through the rubber and then the foam, I saw the nice gray metal you see in there, and way angry because I felt that I had broken into a sealed area that wasn't broke.
But then I removed the rest of the foam and the rubber and saw HOW the left side failed, and how the right side would have failed. The foam, once dry enough, wicks moisture up the vertical surface of the taillight housing's outer edge, inside, behind the rubber. The left side rust-through was the result of this process, and it had started to do the same on the right side...
Please learn from my experience. This is a California car (always), rarely driven in rain the last 10-15 years, and almost always garaged over its life...
Clean those corners out, and re-rustproof and seal them!!! It ain't fun, and it took me about 9 hours for both fenders (at the front and the back of each), but that gunk needs to come out...
pete
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The two pinholes in the right front fender filled...
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BUT, here's where the bummers begin.
Same area, as seen from the doorjamb. Sorry for the crappy angle. It's hard to shoot in there, and it will be even harder to weld in there.
Our plan at this poiint is to rid the area of the rust, gain access to the back of the metal that had the pinholes (easy because of the rust!) and then (probably) epoxy over the area once we've converted and encapsulated the rust.
It makes me cringe...
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Looking good Pete! Glad to see the seam sealer gone. You're right that this is a major PITA and is completely necessary. This is especially important for those people who are media blasting their cars (soda, dry-ice included) because the blasting won't touch that stuff.
I stopped using canned primer/paint over my metal work because I had a few experiences where the rattle can paint didn't interact well with the final paint and caused bubbling. Now I figure a little surface rust comes off in two seconds with some 80 grit sandpaper, so why bother painting.
I agree with the epoxy fix for the door jamb area. Everyone hates on epoxy/body filler/fiberglass and raves about welding, but sometimes it's just NOT worth the hassle when somethine else will work fine.
While we were in there syndrome set in, so I decided to have John weld in an Engman kit and lower my driver's seat, as he figured, much to my surprise, that we can get 0.75-1.00-inch out of the height. As I have a VERY long torso (most of my 6 feet, 3 inches), this was very appealing to me.
I decided to give the go-ahead.
And that's when the real fun with rust began....
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man
that stuff is scary
i just had a surface paint job on my car about a year ago, but it wasnt sanded down to metal, and it didnt cover the jams or anything, and now, i feel like i should strip the car and redo it all, to fix any surface rust, or anything worst
i know stuff like the longs and stuff are fine, and the battery tray is still there (though there is some rust on it (isaw it when i relaced the battery a month ago)
i am not completly satisfied with my paint job, not bad for a grand, and good color, but i had those door ding strips, and you can see where they covered it (the change in the paint at certian angles, and see old dings that werent fixed), and they covered some holes from the old wing i had on it, and one of the holes is beginning to crack, and then some mild surface rust in the trunks (all the jams, and everything on the inside hasnt been touched since it left germany back in august 73
i need to win the lotto, so i can start and redo the paint and fix any potential rust problems i cant see
As you can see, as soon as the Bahia-painted tar was removed from the floorpan, and what you see was the stuff that came off easy, there was lots o' surface rust.
It makes my stomach turn...
Then I removed the vinyl covering the various structural members under the seats and found them to be nice and rusty, too. A screwdriver went right through the forward beam under the driver's seat.
Made the decision to "unoriginalize" this piece in the name of getting my seat down REAL easy...
Second picture shows the beginning of the lowered boxed section.
pete
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Get up close to things, and you can see where the rust is at work under the factory tar. A look down the front floorpan area indicates that only a little surface rust is having its fun along the lower longitudinal seam. We'll have to clear that up, too.
Oh yeah, you can see some of the change we've found here and there (there's been a LOT of it!!!!) and I thought I kept my floors pretty clean. Also found a cuff-link from prom in there....
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The right side beam under the seat, which appears to be much better than the left side (no perforation and seems strong), but will still need attention. Possibly a lot of attention...
So maybe passengers will get treated to a lower seating position, as well...
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Unfortunately, here's where I got more than a little depressed and thought about rolling the car into the bay, or looking for a rust-free chassis...
While the main firewall, hell hole (thank Mick for the Optima back in 1992!!!), and longitudinals appear to be good, this section has succumbed to the tin worm.
Damn you thoroughly, brown monster!
We poked around in there quite a bit and the only good news is that the real firewall seems VERY strong. The bad news is that this is plain fugly. We'll fix it right, treat the area as best we can (possibily cutting "access" holes for the processs into this "outer" panel, and be thankful the Engman kit will cover this area and add strength.
To be honest, and I know there are far braver rust fighters than I, this greatly disheartened me. But then, I have owned this car since high school and another chassis number just wouldn't be the same.
Nonetheless, and PLEASE LISTEN TO ME HERE, fix that rear window, whatever it costs. I listened to mine rattle for years, and never took it too seriously. Now I am spending big hours and big bucks to fix the problems it created, years after I had the window fixed right. If you drive your 914 in the rain, this matters.
And, if you wash your 914 with running water, this matters...
pete
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BTW, you saw you have The Crack®, right?
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gotta love old cars (any old car, doesnt exactly matter)
its not what you can always see that is the problem, it is what you cannot see that sometimes where the true issues lie
well, good luck on the rust
and in my opinion, whenever the rust issues are dealt with, i think the vw tornado red is a bitchin' color, and will probably add a bit more 'pop' to the look of the car over the bahia red
anyways, good luck
(rust is the enemy!!)
You can do it man! Hang in there for pete's sake. Hey could this be a future Excellence article?
Thanks, guys.
Longitudinals look and sound good -- exception to this is the obvious damage from jack points that failed long ago. I've had the fix-it pieces for those for a long time, just never had them put in. And I've had the rockers off lots o' times over the year to clean out all the crud that accumulates along the sides of the car from the backroads of Northern California.
Well, this time the right jack "box" was fairly clear outside, and pretty clear when I cleaned out its drain hole. It also had good integrity.
pete
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Unfortunately, the left box didn't appear to have a drain hole at all -- which didn't go with anything I remembered. Then I finally found it with the screwdriver.
Interestingly, the drain hole is towards the rear on the right side, where you'd think it would be, but it's towards the front on the driver's side, which isn't quite as smart (or maybe it doesn't matter...). Clearly, two stampings weren't in the cards.
Anyway, the left box was PACKED with dirt, and the predictable result was rust on the front face of the box. The good news is that the left longitudinal itself seems completely solid, and as nice as the one on the right. Phew!
I think I am going to go ahead and delete the jack-tube boxes entirely. This will give us a better look in there, and also rid the car of these now useless crud-catchers (which is what I will call these from now on) and I'm just not concerned with the concours aspect of this car. I'm much more interested in long-term preservation of utitlity...
pete
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Moving along, here's what I took out of the voids above the taillights. The rust-darkened one from the left side where I had the rust bubble that inspired this odyssey, the light one is from the right side, which was still fine but on its way to a similar fate.
pete
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closer in on the lowered driver's seat...
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another angle...
Bolted the GTS seat in after this and I must say this may be one of the best mods I've ever made to my 914. I like to sit as low as possible and have a long torso, and I *finally* feel like I am sitting in the car low enough. I can see all of the tach through the Prototipo and I love the new position. The seat slides better than it did before, and if I want to change the rake (I don't think I will, but we'll see...), I can always shim it later.
VERY happy with this mod.
pete
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Engman kit preparations. Very nice kit. Some holes seemed to be in the wrong spots for my early '73...
Perhaps these pics will be helpful?
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And one more... of the seatbelt bolt hole. Both had to be modified slightly.
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After much discussion, reviews of all the installations detailed here on 914world and on 914club, reading the Engman instructions, and reading over PRS's directives, two race mechanics and I talked over how to actually install the kit -- with the car on the lift or on its wheels. Since you could watch the door gaps grow when you lifted the car on a *very* good lift, and because the gaps were good when the car was on its four wheels and there should not be any distorting if you follow everyone's advice, we decided to weld in the pieces with the car sitting on its suspension. To that end, I went back and got the car's real wheels, with four brand-new Vredesteins, bolted them up, and left for an anniversary weekend.
Imagine my horror when my welder told me he started to see the door gap close up on the passenger side as he started to plug weld the rossette holes -- following everyone's instructions and following his own experience and being cognizant of this potential problem. That's when he decided to finish the right side with the car on the lift, and do the same with the left side. The left came out GREAT when the car was back on its wheels, but the right side was a bit tight. You could still open and close the door, but it was a bit sticky. So, he jacked up the car at a carefully selected point along the longitudinal under the door, and then heated up the plug welds until we arrived at the right gap.
I'm not saying we got it "right," but it is one more data point in this ongoing saga of learning the best way to add the stiffening kit. And no idiots were working on this. Well, at least if you don't count this one...
I'll add pics of the kit in place and some other progress next time I get down to the shop with a camera. I hope this thread is as useful for some of you as so many of your threads have been for me.
pete
Nice to hear about the progress Pete.
No doubt this thread is useful! Keep 'em coming Pete...
Thank you for posting the pics! I always ask for feedback and am glad to see some. I knew the one hole was close to the dimple on the side that you redrilled – and I will relocate it in future production runs on both sides – Thanks! As to the location of the seat belt mounts – I purposely made it a slot as I have seen the front to back variance. Mc Mark is getting ready to do another install and hopefully he will tell me what he sees here. Based on your comments I will have to be more specific on the welding procedure to make sure that the welds are done in a manner to disperse the heat better.
Mark
I installed my kit last year. Went in like butter, I listened to no one because I think I am a 914 God. But either way, my 914 turned out perfect and it made a HUGE difference in the feel of the car.
Great kit Eggman. Trust me when I speak for all of us when I say we appreciate all that you put into your products. Thier quality speaks for your skills and attention to detail.
Mark,
I too think your kit rocks! And I think John's words were "this guy makes the kit TOO well (referencing the time it took him to get it to fit perfectly, but in a good way)." I think he was impressed by the way that you have done this kit, and appear to be laser-cutting it.
I can't wait to drive my car with it in place!
pete
Thanks - but I am always on the lookout to improve what I make. Your feedback makes that possible! For that I thank you, and future owners of my products will too!
Mark
Bulk of sills are still Bahia thanks to the aluminum thresholds...
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Once the jack-post boxes were cut away, we found solid metal. But rust was at work. I decided to eliminate the boxes, as they failed long ago in a scary way and always seems like the "catch" point for dirt and moisture.
I carry a scissors jack these days....
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So this is where the car stands today. Just a little more work and it's off to paint...
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And from the rear. Man those 165s on steelies are killin' me!
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In my ongoing struggle with Bahia vs. Toronado, I've taken a bunch of pictures of the few areas I've found that are factory original Bahia and untouched by the sun all these years. I suspect this would be of use not only to me, as I have had a tough time finding anything useful online when it comes to color comparisons. Of course, online color judging is inherently flawed, but...
Anyway, out of respect for bandwidth, am I committing a party foul by posting a bunch of them?
pete
Post away! We want them all. Always good to have an original point of reference.
Okay, the only useful Bahia is on the sail panels (targa bar sides). It's subtle, so if you *think* you see the difference, then that's it.
To my eye, Bahia is oranger, deader, and brighter all at once.
pete
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original sill, now with Engman kit next to it...
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And Toronado, by itself, shot at the same angle/same light
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door to sill experiment, not so successful
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Walk around at differing lights to get an idea of the sail panel's color against the rest of the car...
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Pete,
Your car is one of the relatively rust free 914s out there, and the sail panels show that.
As far as color, I'm probably in the minority here when I say I have a very strong preference for OEM paints...period correct for the 914 production era .
Below is a good photo of a '72 in Bahia Red.
Paul
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And two indoors, at different exposures...
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Last one, which I think really shows off the difference in low light...
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From the photos on my screen (acknowledging the flawed color of computer screens) I think the Bahia looks WAY better.
Pete,
Beautiful workmanship. I like what your doing about color matching. You view the original paint in all types of light & different times of day. That's the only way to get a true color match.
Tom
Go Tornado!
FWIW, It's actually Tornado Red. It replaced Mars Red for the 1986 model year. And I agree... it's one of the nicest reds out there.
Ah, thanks for the correction...
pete
I vote for Tornado Red. It looks a little deeper to me. And in your pics of the car before the body work, it looked great! It's obviously a colour you like alot, so I'd stick with it.
P.S. Great thread Pete!
Cheers,
Well, since others are giving you their opinion, I'll add mine....
I'm partial to bahia red.... BTW, both are original bahia red '74 2.0
Here's a better shot of the finished bahia red driver...
Whichever color you choose, you're doing a great job....
-- Rob
Long before there was a Boxster limited-edition by the same name, there was the 914 "RS60 Spyder"
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With its unusual formula car Momo wheel, complete with electrical tape to cover up the horn button hole-related failure...
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Getting close to ready for the paint shop. All that remains (this side of sanity) is windshield removal and a little adhesive removal on the firewall and front trunk bulkhead.
I may also make a deeper check of the previous rust treating (ca. 1991) at the back of the rear trunk floor. Or not. A cursory inspection showed it worked very well...
pete
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Finally, just for fun, we decided to weigh the car as is, with all mechanicals (it's a running, driving car but for its lack of a 15-pound driver's seat), both windshields, steel wheels, tar over most of the floors, the engine sound pad, the headlight assemblies less the lights themselves, and about a half tank of gas. Engine lid and headlight bits were in the back trunk.
To my surprise, it came out at 1,591 pounds.
My guess is that, with a light battery, alloy wheels, FG decklids and bumpers, Perlon carpeting, Plexi side windows on 356 GT/911R style strap adjusters but with seats, a top, all rubber seals, lights, and steel sides (fenders and doors), you might be able to build a streetable 914 in the 1650-1750-lb range.
Very tempting, but not what my car is.
pete
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Need some advice:
I taped off the wiring and and headlight assemblies, then covered them in plastic bags with tightly taped ends to seal them off from getting wet during the inevitable bodywork soakings. Good idea?
And, more importantly, how should I prevent moisture from getting into all of the dashboard/gauge wiring once the windshield is out? Am I being paranoid? Is it better to let this stuff get a little wet and dry out in the open, or to bag it as best possible and hope for the best?
Thanks!
pete
Any good body shop masking paper taped in place of the missing glass will hold out several washings as long as you use good (3M or American brand) masking tape. Don't use cheap tape you pay for it later.
The reason the masking paper will hold back water is the solvents used in modern urothane paints will soak through the old standard masking. Todays masking is designed to resist this.
Pete,
Knowing what is going to happen at the body shop I would tape and cover "everything" that you don't want a layer of dust etc. on.
Looks pretty stripped already, but I'd completely tape up that dash and gauge/wiring. Water proof? That's a little paranoid.
Windshield removal on my car = no fun.
Butyl tape is everywhere and holding the trim in well enough that "the tool" ain't doin it.
Luckily, I have new windshield trim and mine was only so-so. I got the two two pieces out, but I'd like to save the bottom piece because the new one arrived nicely bent from GPR. (To his credit, Dave offered to take it back, but I never got around to sending it back.)
Ideas to get that bottom piece out? Is there something that dissolves butyl, or am I dreaming?
pete
can you add a little heat to the butyl with a heat gun might soften it up some. Not sure if that'll do a number on your glass tho (the heat that is).
Well, many months later, my car has returned from paint. I have to say that while it took far longer than I had hoped or planned, I am thrilled with the results.[attachmentid=173115] [attachmentid=173115]
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...
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straighter than I've ever had it, and I've had it 20 years now...
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NICE! Can't wait to see it in person.
and tucked in for the night next to its new(er) roommate. notice which one has the bigger oil leak!
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It's been home for a couple of months (or at least a few weeks+ ) , so I feel like I've been leaving my family out by not posting.
They decided to take it down to bare metal. Interestingly, they found no more rust ANYWHERE, so this is a counterpoint to other advice about the stuff you may not see. On the other hand, I think I'd go with that advice rather than following my (intended) path. Was nice to know we identified all the rust spots before they stripped it down. The paint has some peel in it, more subtle texture than peel. I really like it, because it looks a little more "original" this way. It's nicer than it would have been in 1973, but it doesn't have that "Pebble Beach" paint feeling, which some love but leaves me cold.
I've done a lot since these photos were taken. The outer longs are now all red (just cuz, I guess...), the area behind the front bumper is done in Wurth high-build black, as the fenderwells will be, the dash vents are re-blacked, the grill underlays are blacked, the front strut bolts and plates are back to their correct cad plating, much of the lighting is in place, etc. Still a lot to do. The level of paint is making me do stuff I never did back in 1991, like clean every bolt before reinstallation, get rid of the 1991 overspray on wires etc. It won't be perfect, but it will be a very nice driver -- though my wife teases me that it will never see a freeway again.
I have some more crappy phone pictures (like the first three) from the car in primer and in process at the body shop. I'll see if I can resize some of them. They're not that interesting, though...
pete
Hurry up you slacker.
Love the color, looks fantastic.
I am sure you can't wait to be driving it again.
The easiest way to resize photos I have found it to email them to yourself (if
you are using ms windows). It will ask it you want to resize. This will make
a 500K picture into about a 50K picture.
Great project, keep the pictures coming.
John
I still have a long way to go on mine... good luck
I will take you up on that although have not been in the US since 98 or so, you guys stil drive on the right or was that just NY?
what's the story with the exhaust? pretty cool. is it a 'one off' or something that used to be available. the paint looks swell.
One other thing: I have never, ever, in all my travels, seen a paint shop with no overspray.
Until this job. From blasting to primer to paint, I never saw one iota of something that shop didn't want in an area it didn't belong in. Every time I walked in to look at the car (which wasn't often), I was shocked by how perfectly the interior and engine had been masked off and spared. I frankly could have left the whole interior in there, and I am not kidding. I haven't found so much as a dime-sized spot of overspray. They were so stingy with the paint, in fact, that they're going to have to spot in 2-3 minor details because they didn't QUITE get enough coverage -- which they will do in final detail after I've reassembled the car.
They must've looked at the overspray from 1991 and shook they heads. I've been doing the same while working to banish it once and for all...
pete
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sorry for the crappy iPhone photos! They say the best camera is the one you've got...but I'm not so sure
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I don't know how interesting these are, but...
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That is going to be a really nice driver. I know you dread the first chip. I would ask for the paint can label or the printout of the formula on your paint as you will probably never need to repaint it again but you might need some touchup. I didn't read where you said b/c or single stage or acrylic enamel?
Are you going to use a firewall pad? just curious if you think it will add to rust issues later? Also you decided on leaving off the sail vinyl is that to help prevent the moisture from entering the trim holes? I have a very small rust through at the top corner of the latch just above where the inner latch support is mounted and am worried that there's more than whats apparent in that corner as there is some small rust appearing at the corner of the jam under the vinyl trim also.
It's interesting the body closed up on the non-crack side on the longs. It seems that the welding must be a weld and let cool very slow process on the longs. I would think the rosette welds on the tops of the longs must be the troublesome ones.
There are several spray on sound proofers and also on top of that you could put on a coat of bedliner that may be my solution on the outside of the firewall.
I restored a 42 ford military jeep for a friend and tried my best to seal all the seams and he kept saying it would never see water. The first Veterans Day parade he used it in it rained the whole parade.
So it's been a loooooooooooooong time since I've been hanging out here. Missed you guys, but had a kitchen remodel, travel, work, various distractions, etc. interrupt the reassembly process. That and window guides that took fo-eva to get back from the plater. But I digress....let's get to the pics.
...
Valances take their place...
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Hella European 914 driving lights to replace the U.S. foglights. I like them because they fill out the holes in the grills completely. They were in so-so shape when I got them. I was able to clean one, but the other reflector was cooked. Had a hotrod shop in Oregon replate it. Wasn't cheap, but wasn't bad in the grand scheme of things.
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Then came the distractions....would you really be working on the 914, especially if you had to give the others back?
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In case y'all didn't hate me already....
3.9 liters, 8800 rpm, 500 hp, 92+mph in second, 122+ mph in third...with three more gears to go. No, I did not find redline in fourth. Frankly, I can't believe I kept my license with this color. Phew.
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More distraction...
3.0 liters, 330 hp, felt surprisingly slow. Really.
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Ahem, I'd better get back to my 80-hp reality.
While cleaning up the car's original blue plate, I discovered that I should have worked those Month stickers off more carefully. I think I would have left this, the car's original 1973 sticker, in place and put the new Month sticker somewhere else. Or nowhere. Ah well....
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More parts go on...
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Started thinking about these crazy French lenses. Always liked them on Marty's car and the GTs, as well as in a picture of 914s on a lot in the background of a 917 photo.
Turns out they're NLA as lenses, but the computer showed PAG still had 2 rights and 1 left if I was willing to buy complete units. Given how bad (!!!!) the new Euro lenses I bought were (scratched at the factory before being bagged, Jeff at Sunset Porsche was awesome throughout the process, ordering multiples to get the best ones possible — probably due to the size of my order — and eventually even polishing the lenses to make them perfect), I started to think the only way to get good ones would be to buy complete units. Then the French thing came up, and I decided to order them. Then we found out there were 3 listed, but none left. Then Jeff had them do a manual check and there was 1 of each left. So here they are.
I'm trying to decide if I like 'em on a red car... Hmm, from this angle, yes, yes I do.
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And, no, not so much. They disappear into the car and make the bumper the only thing you see. I think I'll be sticking with the Euros...
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Interior work begins...
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Felt like those darn French lenses deserved one more try before being relegated to storage. Nope, just don't work for me on a red car.
Note NOS top, thanks to a 914world member!
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First time out in daylight in a long time...
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Hmm, trying to figure out center caps vs. no center caps... and what kind of lugs...?
Also, think I am going to go back to the LE spoiler...
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Kinda likin' the no caps thing...
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This just makes me want to head out for a drive. A long drive. Away from everything. Alas, much to do...
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Since all of these, I have installed most of the interior and completed the passenger door window/guides/panel/speakers/etc. The BEST (and super helpful) advice I got on door reassembly was Perry's tip to leave all of the bolts loose on the window guide rails in the doors. I didn't think I could tighten the two inside the door, but it was easy with a box-end wrench. After hours and hours of trial and error, that one tip allowed me to finish the passenger door fitment and quarter-window to A-pillar in minutes. Thanks, Perry!
Still need to tackle the driver's door, some dash stuff, some gauge stuff, some radio stuff, and install the Engman rear trunk latch setup. Will try to get some pictures — and with a better camera — up soon.
Congrats!
Pete,
Your car is looking great. I can't wait to see it in person. Want to do dual engine builds? A fairly stock DJet 2056 while I build an evil double-secret Raby monster?
McMark, Take note of the seat modification. I want this in my car. I have always thought the seat position was too high. Consider this a reservation for Original Customs shop time
Your car is looking great, love the color. I also really liked the article on the
green car. I'm not sure I could have given that car back.
Are you putting a PORSCHE reflector in place of your rear trunk key mechanism?
I've got an original cut down 911 reflector for ya if you need one.
John
I'm actually a little unclear on the seat mod. At least with respect to how the seat mounts. It looks like you got rid of the hinges as well. So if I'm seeing it right, you lose up/down adjustment, but retain forward/backward adjustment.
Glad to see it's back on the road, Pete. I can't believe it's been a year! That means mine's been off for more than a couple...
Looks beautiful. Very nice work
It always feels nice to get a big project done and look this nice.
Awesome.
Sounds good!
BTW - nice looking ride Pete... get 'er out and play...
Nice job! Just remember Porsche 914's rust from the inside out ...except for the the HELL HOLE! I Have 2 of-em I know.
Can you take a pic of the seat rail bolted in without the seat in place?
-- Rob
Hmm, I have to say if there is a downside to the mod it is that getting the seat on and off the rails is not fun. At all. I'll try to do it anyway next time I have the car out of the back of the garage.
Haven't made much progress of late. Need to re-do the brakes with new calipers (thanks Eric!) and re-do the carpeting in the front trunk. Then it needs to go back to the painter for a final buffing and detailing. I cannot believe how long it's been off the road, but buying a house and remodeling a kitchen and life has intervened. I am sure nobody can identify!
EDIT: Took the seats out and got some photos of the completed setup. Yes, it only took me fo-eva. Text from another thread on adding Scheel seats:
Many moons ago, someone asked for photos of how my driver's seat was lowered. Getting the last pair of seats out wasn't fun, as I didn't take the time to get the rails aligned as well as they could be, but I took the opportunity to grab some photos of the setup today.
You can see that the cross bar under the front of the seat was cut out and "stepped down" with thicker metal. This was done at Genoa Racing in Novato, CA at the same time that the Engman chassis stiffening kit was added. I lost the ability to change the seat angle (which doesn't bother me, as it's pretty limited in the 914, and not bad as is), but dropped about 0.8 inch. Well worth it, imo...
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The up side is there is 24 hrs in a day. More time for everything else but the car... Maybe she'll be ready for the WCR 2011?....
Long time no post. Kitchen remodel, bathroom remodel, job change, arrival of our first child, and the wildest year I've had in general conspired to put the car well down the priority list.
Anyway, got the motor out and had the engine/transmission area professionally steam-cleaned and detailed. After 250,000~ miles (est) and 40 years, I could not believe my eyes: It looks great down there. Everything passes the screwdriver test, and the hacky high-school job I did of cleaning up the original battery tray, repainting the area, and installing an Optima back in 1991 probably helped a lot.
Last night was the first (non-work) car time I've had in probably six months. And boy was it therapeutic. Three guys, one 914, and an empty race shop.
Objectives: Punch holes for NOS 914-6 oil tank and install Rich Johnson engine mount.
Fuel: Arun Thai, the best Thai food in the north bay by miles.
Outcome: Just a great night.
Photos: Below (click on any to make it a bit clearer...)
Update since last time: Engine is done, all suspension rebuilt.
Can't wait to drive this thing again...and can't believe how long this project has stretched out!
pete
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Since you've gone this far Id take out the back pad if you haven't already & just check for any damage or thinning due to tin worm that may be lurking.
Pete,
Great to have you back Lookin forward to saying hello at Parade.
Tell us more about your engine & pics. please.
Tom
Engine is not one of the wilder setups. It's a "2.2E" built on an unstressed 911T case with a (nice) used Mahle E pistons and cylinders. It's got a bit more compression (splitting difference between E and S), Solex-grind cams, Weber 40s, Electromotive ignition on the engine (isolated by M-B mounts), headers, and (probably) a 911 sport muffler. May do something different with the muffler, we'll see.
We've been paying with the fan shroud strap and still need to touch the letters on the valve covers to spruce them up.
NOS oil tank was one of three that sat and sat and sat in the warehouse because someone mistakenly scrawled a 901 part number on each of them with a black pen—so Porsche didn't know it had them. Discovered years ago, this one has been waiting to find a home for a while.
Sorry about the phone pics, but that's what the builder, John Holleran, had handy. Then again, "the best camera is the one you've got" definitely applies here...wouldn't have had anything without it!
pete
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Ready for Mille?
Pah, I think Melee would be a push.
Parade 2014, however...
pete
Great looking/spec engine combo!
Looks good Pete! Arun Thai on Bel Marin Keys? I was just htere Friday. It was very good.
Have a similiar project going right now to join my original owner '71 silver 914 in the background. '73 Bahia Red 2.0 getting a total restoration, hope to have it running by the end of the summer with my son's help (when he's not driving his 993 or Cayman).
Spend most of last weekend getting suspension back in...
The glacial progress of my 914 "paint job > freshening > cosmetic restoration > brake upgrade > chassis rebuild > six conversion" continues, with the latest update being the car went onto the dyno at RPM Engines and surprised me.
With some tuning—mainly timing related—it made 169 hp at the rear wheels with 147 lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels. Applying a 15% powertrain loss factor, which always gives me the hives, that's 199 hp and 173 lb-ft at the flywheel. The torque comes on strong nice and low and then stays fairly consistent from there on up, from 3000~ rpm up to and through 6000 rpm. Not shabby for a small-bore 2.2, and very driveable. I'm told there's a little more power to be had with a different exhaust setup with the collectors moved further forward, and we lost more than we should have when the factory 914-6 air box went back on, so I need to figure out my final exhaust and intake setup before we do final tuning.
For the time being, however, I am one happy camper.
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Sweet. There is nothing like a short stroke 911 engine in a light car.
Now you can drive it down to the West Coast Ramble!
Great to see it's coming along Pete.
PHAT !!
PHAT !!
Great results, I'm tempted to scrap my distributor when I warm up my 2.7 for my project.
Can't believe it's been two years since I updated this thread. I have a lot of updating to do, but I'll skip forward to the last week or so because the car ran like a champ in its first trip to SoCal in 20 years...
If you are doing one of these projects, it can be daunting/annoying/draining/etc. Just know...it's WORTH IT!
Now, on to some pics from the run to Luftgekühlt, with the 914 packed up for a 1,000-mile journey and the GT4 kicked to the curb. What was I thinking?
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Didn't take many pics on the way down 101 to LA, but DID take a lot of notes.
The 2.2 is torquey around town, sings up to redline, and—with a factory airbox that is robbing 20 hp on the dyno—quiet enough on long drives. Unfortunately, the wind noise was awful—and a stark contrast to the quiet freeway cruiser this car was when I got it. More work is needed to quiet the noise at the A-pillars and windshield. The list of other things to sort is long, but most are minor annoyances. Some bigger ones, like heat and handling. It really was neat to go down the road in this car....need to take it on more trips.
When it got down to LA, it got checked into the Malibu Car Wash, where a 914 looks a little funny next to some of the other iron (and carbon fiber) that is usually being cleaned, but the crew there did a GREAT job, and for a lot less than the detailers I use up in Northern California.
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Luftgekühlt was a LOT of fun, and I was blown away by many of the cars there—and some very nice 914s also. There are so many pics online and on social feeds that I won't weigh this thread down with that stuff, so I'll just skip to three from the ride home. One from Point Magu, and then a stop in Santa Barbara where the car lived for a single semester (only felt right to play "One Headlight" by the Wallflowers on the way out of town*), and then a shot to try and capture that feeling when an old car gets you home through the night. Besides the wind noise, high-speed cruising is effortless, and it did better on fuel economy than I thought (though still not so great compared to a -4). The biggest thing, however, was the experience—I never forget the drives I take in this car.
*Particularly because, for the first time in 28 years, my headlights are acting funny, with the driver's side headlight taking its own sweet time to lower itself after turning off the lights. Sometimes 2-20 minutes after the right one goes down.
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And, after a quick wash, it was back on the road to R Gruppe's 2017 Treffen in Napa—where there were several cool 914s. The 914 and GT4 got a little love, being placed up front in a row of hot-rod 911s parked next to the dinner tables, for a bit of alternate flavor and mid-engined contrast in a typically 911-dominated event.
Photos by good friend Pete Ritter
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Btw, need to find then pics, but I eventually did mount that 215/60R15 to a real 15x7R to see if it could be snuck into the rear fenders.
Working with washers and longer studs, I was able to get it into both sides, but the inner tire was rubbing on the trailing arm and car brake line, and there was NO room for the tire to "walk" around under load. So I skipped and went to 185/70R15 Avons for now. I like them, but miss seeing fatter rubber tucked under the car. May move to something else. We'll see.
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Beautiful 914.
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