Adding dog-ear reinforcement, Really going into details. |
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Adding dog-ear reinforcement, Really going into details. |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:17 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
On my /6 project, I have decided not to add the tub reinforcements on the inside rear wheel well, for a variety of reasons. I did decide that I wanted the dog-ear reinforcement, also for a variety of reasons.
I am building the whole thing from scratch and I will post a detailed picture sequence in the hope that some will find it interesting. I first bought some cold-rolled flat stock, 1/4 inch by 1.5 inch. I will say that I did not try to calculate if this resulted in a tang of the right strength, but it's what I used. There's 8 tangs required, 6 the same and 2 a little longer. To make the tangs, I began by drilling a 3/8 inch hole: Attached image(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:18 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
Then I cut the outboard corners off:
Attached image(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:20 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
Back to the mill, I rounded the ends. I had a small pice of steel in which I inserted a 3/8 bolt, used to hold the tang material down. When the bolt is tightened, the plate can be rotated against the end mill and the end rounded.
Attached image(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:21 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
The picture is frozen, in the previous shot, but the mill was spinning !
Then I cut the tang to approximate length, and started over. Attached image(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:23 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
To make sure all the tangs were the same length, I put a 3/8 pice of round stock in the holes, stacked the tangs, and cut them down to final length on the lathe. Once again, the lathe is spinning in this shot:
Attached image(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
The next step is to cut some more steel plate (or sheet, I'm not sure what the exact terminology is) from 1/8 inch stock. I made this 5 inches by 3.5 inches, simply based on measurements on the tub, and comparisons to Armando Serrano's site. This is what it'll look like:
Attached image(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:27 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
Okay, so the bolt I had was too long.
In the previous picture, you can see that I chamfered the tangs so that I would get better penetration when welded, which I did with my trusty Mig: Attached image(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:28 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
And this is what it's going to look like with the rod-end (I'll post details on that part later)
Attached image(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 12 2006, 04:32 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
This part gets welded to the main bulkhead, as shown below.
What remains is to (1) put together the tangs that will be welded to the dog-ear itself, (2) and to make the rod that will go between the bulkhead and the dog-ear and (3) do the welding to the tub. Picture below from Armando Serrano's site: Attached image(s) |
okieflyr |
Mar 13 2006, 11:35 AM
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#10
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9fauxteen Group: Members Posts: 816 Joined: 9-January 05 From: Phila PA Member No.: 3,426 Region Association: North East States |
Watching with great interest ! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) KB
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Andyrew |
Mar 13 2006, 11:43 AM
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#11
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Seems like welding a tube in there would be much easyer..
But complexity is gud!! Unless your going to be racing in a class that says no weld in reinforcements.. bolt in only. |
alpha434 |
Mar 13 2006, 12:32 PM
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#12
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My member number is no coincidence. Group: Members Posts: 3,154 Joined: 16-December 05 From: Denver, CO Member No.: 5,280 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Has to be removable so that the engine will come out. |
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Andyrew |
Mar 13 2006, 12:37 PM
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#13
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Interesting..
guess I dont think about that unremovable engine tin now adays.... |
Brad Roberts |
Mar 13 2006, 12:38 PM
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#14
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
I have welded in 20+.. all the engines come out without issue. I do agree that removable is more better (easier to adjust valves) The issue is rust inside the ear. They are plenty strong up until a 12inch wide slick is used on a good ear (and a good driver) B |
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Andyrew |
Mar 13 2006, 12:41 PM
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#15
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Brad, real quick...
My left ear hole is ovaled out.. and I assume the right one is slightly ovaled as well. Both bolts come loose after driving them. I have a lincoln mig now, and was going to replace the metal with 1/8in or something simular, then reinforce it a little on both sides. (with a welded in bar from the front firewall to the ear) Does that sound right? thanks.. |
michel richard |
Mar 13 2006, 01:36 PM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
Agreed. Not going into any racing class. I just think that welding in a permanent tube is something that could come back to haunt me sometime down the road. And the thing with the rod ends is that it's kinda fun to do. |
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michel richard |
Mar 13 2006, 01:49 PM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
I got the Aurora CM-6 rod end, locally, it has a 3/8 inch hole, and a 3/8 inch fine thread shaft, but I think that's on the small side and I will probably get some CM-8 fittings. These are basic run-of-the-mill items. Here's the link to the manufacturer's site. I paid C$40 for the four ends that I got.
http://www.aurorabearing.com/ You can download their catalog free, it contains a lot of info. |
brant |
Mar 13 2006, 01:56 PM
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#18
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,739 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Nice..
but you can buy those mounts and ends pre-made too. here are the ones we used: Attached thumbnail(s) |
brant |
Mar 13 2006, 01:57 PM
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#19
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,739 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
both sides are connected so they can be lighter weight and retain their strength. Close up:
Attached thumbnail(s) |
michel richard |
Mar 13 2006, 02:08 PM
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#20
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
Brant, what size rod-ends do you use ?
In my case, part of the fun is making the things myself. |
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