What will glue window glass to metal again?, dang old cars |
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What will glue window glass to metal again?, dang old cars |
mskala |
Jul 17 2005, 08:25 PM
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#1
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None |
Found another reason for my window to not line up.
I have an early car, that has the metal piece with rollers attached to the front of the glass, which rides in the chrome channel. The glass seems to be moving with respect to the metal now, so even though I haven't taken it apart I think I will need to re-glue the piece. What is going to hold these together? Another job that I don't want to do twice if I can avoid it. Thanks, |
Joe Ricard |
Jul 17 2005, 08:27 PM
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#2
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CUMONIWANNARACEU Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Gautier, MS Member No.: 92 |
Rear view mirror adhesive. Better get it right the 1st time it pretty permanent.
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Brad Roberts |
Jul 17 2005, 08:27 PM
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#3
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
Windshield Butyl.
All glass shops will have it in 2 forms: 1. roll of tape style 2. caulking gun style. I suggest number 1. B |
xsboost90 |
Jul 17 2005, 09:27 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,393 Joined: 2-August 04 From: cincinnati Member No.: 2,432 |
3m makes a glue for that.
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aircooledboy |
Jul 18 2005, 09:02 AM
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#5
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Sweet Pea's 1st ride in daddy's "vroom -vroom" Group: Members Posts: 1,672 Joined: 4-February 04 From: Rockford, IL Member No.: 1,629 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
What are you people, on dope?
Mr. Hand (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/w00t.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) The only proper adhesive for attaching a window glass to an "appliance" (i.e. anything that holds the window to the regulatoror or guides the window to the right spot) is urethane. Butyl wont hold up to movement, particularly when it gets warm, and rear view mirror tab adhesive is only suited for exactly that purpose. Clean the glass and prime the metal, you will have a nearly indestructable bond. Oh, and don't get it on anything you don't want it on. Stuff is wicked. The only thing that cleans it up worth a damn is enamel reducer, which is fairly evil stuff in its own right. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) This post has been edited by aircooledboy: Jul 19 2005, 12:34 PM |
mskala |
Jul 19 2005, 10:58 AM
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#6
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None |
Thanks all, now I will have something to do in the fall,
unless it falls out before then. |
tommy914 |
Jul 19 2005, 02:52 PM
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#7
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Life is a journey, enjoy every turn. Group: Members Posts: 1,103 Joined: 15-September 03 From: Ridgeland, MS Member No.: 1,165 Region Association: None |
I used 3M super weatherstrip adhesive on mine.
If you apply a thin layer to the metal and the glass, then let it dry, then put the pieces together it works great. It also removes easily with the usual solvents in case you line up the metal piece incorrectly the first time... like I did. Clean up all the rollers etc... real good so there is no binding when the window goes up and down. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
May 15 2012, 09:46 PM
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#8
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Found another reason for my window to not line up. I have an early car, that has the metal piece with rollers attached to the front of the glass, which rides in the chrome channel. The glass seems to be moving with respect to the metal now, so even though I haven't taken it apart I think I will need to re-glue the piece. What is going to hold these together? Another job that I don't want to do twice if I can avoid it. Thanks, I too have a old window mechanism (71). Looking for concensus on what is the correct adhesive to use to fasten the front metal guide to the glass. thistothat.com recommends JB Weld or a Locktite product. What about the other rewcommendations made in this thread. How are they holding up? Anybody else use JB Weld? Also, for same setup, where does the metal guide acually sit on the window? How far up from the bottom or how far down from the top does the guide sit. I can look at the passenger side for reference, but I don't know if that one is sitting in the right position either (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Any ideas? |
76-914 |
May 16 2012, 08:52 AM
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#9
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,611 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Surprised no one mentioned plain old silicone. Glass to glass or glass to anything.
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McMark |
May 16 2012, 09:25 AM
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#10
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
The same stuff people glue windshields in with. Urethane
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BRAVE_HELIOS |
May 16 2012, 09:28 AM
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#11
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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TheCabinetmaker |
May 16 2012, 10:50 AM
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#12
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,309 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
Urethane. You can buy a product called Vulchem. 100% pure urethane. Its what windshield shops, and commercial glass and mirror installers use. Its also available at most body shop supply places.
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Cap'n Krusty |
May 16 2012, 12:01 PM
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#13
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
What are you people, on dope? Mr. Hand <!-- emo&:woohoo: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/w00t.gif)<!-- endemo --> <!-- emo&:lol: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)<!-- endemo --> The only proper adhesive for attaching a window glass to an "appliance" (i.e. anything that holds the window to the regulatoror or guides the window to the right spot) is urethane. Butyl wont hold up to movement, particularly when it gets warm, and rear view mirror tab adhesive is only suited for exactly that purpose. Clean the glass and prime the metal, you will have a nearly indestructable bond. Oh, and don't get it on anything you don't want it on. Stuff is wicked. The only thing that cleans it up worth a damn is enamel reducer, which is fairly evil stuff in its own right. <!-- emo&:beer2: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)<!-- endemo --> As is often the case here, they just make shit up. I agree, and so would every glass guy with half a clue, URETHANE is the ONLY thing that works properly. The Cap'n |
ape914 |
May 16 2012, 12:07 PM
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#14
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red locktite Group: Retired Members Posts: 240 Joined: 7-February 11 From: In front of a computer Member No.: 12,676 Region Association: None |
silicone rtv works fine. No shit.
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BRAVE_HELIOS |
May 16 2012, 12:10 PM
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#15
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
What are you people, on dope? Mr. Hand <!-- emo&:woohoo: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/w00t.gif)<!-- endemo --> <!-- emo&:lol: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)<!-- endemo --> The only proper adhesive for attaching a window glass to an "appliance" (i.e. anything that holds the window to the regulatoror or guides the window to the right spot) is urethane. Butyl wont hold up to movement, particularly when it gets warm, and rear view mirror tab adhesive is only suited for exactly that purpose. Clean the glass and prime the metal, you will have a nearly indestructable bond. Oh, and don't get it on anything you don't want it on. Stuff is wicked. The only thing that cleans it up worth a damn is enamel reducer, which is fairly evil stuff in its own right. <!-- emo&:beer2: -->(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)<!-- endemo --> As is often the case here, they just make shit up. I agree, and so would every glass guy with half a clue, URETHANE is the ONLY thing that works properly. The Cap'n Hello Cap'n! Thanks for the vote. Urethane it is! Any thoughts on where exactly the metal guide should sit on the window? Thanks! |
914itis |
May 16 2012, 12:25 PM
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#16
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,892 Joined: 9-October 10 From: New York City Member No.: 12,256 Region Association: North East States |
Edit wrong thread
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BRAVE_HELIOS |
May 16 2012, 10:23 PM
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#17
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I used 3M super weatherstrip adhesive on mine. If you apply a thin layer to the metal and the glass, then let it dry, then put the pieces together it works great. It also removes easily with the usual solvents in case you line up the metal piece incorrectly the first time... like I did. Clean up all the rollers etc... real good so there is no binding when the window goes up and down. Anybody know where the metal window guide sits on the glass (for old style mechanism). I'm ready to glue the darn thing. There's got to be a dimension associated with this! |
914werke |
Sep 25 2012, 11:42 PM
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#18
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,542 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Slight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) I just had my Pass window fail like this as well, but mine is a late regulator (74).
On the later style the glass is glued into a rubber U channel which is in turn glued (?) into the regulator guide. Cleaning that Guide it looks like they used Butyl to secure the rubber wrapped glass edge into the Guide (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) If the glass is adjusted properly there should never be so much stiction to cause the galss to pull out of the assembly? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) |
charliew |
Sep 29 2012, 10:43 AM
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#19
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
I haven't looked at my 914 but all the american cars used a asphalt looking tape the was wrapped on the glass edge and pressed into a channel. A lot of times the channel would rust out and loose it's tension on the glass. My local auto glass shop would stock the new metal channel that you had to cut the roller brackets off the old piece and weld them to the new piece. If all the metal is good I would glue it back with urethane. As a replacement urethane you could use NP1, it's a industrial caulk and sealer and is really good stuff.
The auto glass guy went to a class to learn how to use the urethane stuff he uses. I think his process uses a glass primer and all the stuff is a system like ppg paints. |
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