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> Front End Ride Height?
Kerrys914
post Nov 3 2003, 01:30 PM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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Hey guys..now that my teener is running well enough to drive I need a front end alignment. I bought some simple tools to do a home alignment but don't think I can get the camber right...so I have a toe-in/tow-out tool and a camber measurement tool (just a level like device). My thought was to use this tool to measure the camber off another 914 and transfer this measurment to my car. Does that sound like it would have work?


I need to set the ride height before I go the shop. The odds are the shop will not be a 914 savy one so I will bring the specs with me and have the height set before hand. I have spacers on my steering rack if that helps with the height measurements.

I heard/read somewhere the "A-arm" should be at least parallel to the ground, is this right? Since I have flares measurments to the fender lip will not work here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

The rear will stay the way it is now. I don't have the shims and I would like to find a 914 savy shop before I have some one mess with the rear.

Cheers
Kerry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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AZ914
post Nov 3 2003, 02:48 PM
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Hello,

I am also interested in finding the best way to adjust (lower) the front ride height. I will be installing 911 front struts for my 5-lug conversion but have noticed that the front end currently 'appears' to sit a little higher than I'd like. Any help is appreciated.
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ArtechnikA
post Nov 3 2003, 03:01 PM
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QUOTE(Va914 @ Nov 3 2003, 11:30 AM)
I ...don't think I can get the camber right... My thought was to use this tool to measure the camber off another 914 and transfer this measurment to my car.

i -think- (no references close at hand ...) the stock ride height is 105mm from ground to center of torsion bar. you don't need another 914 to do camber, your level device will work fine, if it's the magnetic-protractor thingie. you won't get super-duper precision but you can get pretty close. the hard part is finding a perfectly level surface to start with. i -have- done it on a sideslope, you just have to find a place on the car that's parallel to the ground to establish your baseline - then add to one side and subtract from the other.

1-deg neg is a decent, parking-lot-achievable number - try for identical numbers side to side, and be very accurate with toe.

front ride height adjustment procedure is in the Haynes. it's easy to go lower than makes sense ...
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redshift
post Nov 3 2003, 04:45 PM
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QUOTE(AZ914 @ Nov 3 2003, 04:48 PM)
'appears' to sit a little higher than I'd like.  Any help is appreciated.

To lower, you just get an 11mm shallow socket on a ratchet.

Look up under the front end, from just behind the front tires, there is a tall nut hanging down, a few inches in from the wheel, and inside the a-arm.

There it is, one on each side, one turn is A LOT OF MOVEMENT, GO EASY.

I like a little rake, front to back, depends on if there are sway bars in the rear.

If it won't lower as much as you'd like, you have to pull the torsion bars, and pick another spline.. you can lay the bottom on the ground.


M
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machina
post Nov 3 2003, 05:05 PM
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When I installed the 175lb race springs I lowered the front about 1". Gave the car a good rake, more stable, and no bump steer problems. I do have rack spacers though.

Don't think you can go much lower without raised spindles, see pic.

dave


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AZ914
post Nov 3 2003, 05:06 PM
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Thanks for the updates... I'll check for the nut and the good ole' Haynes manual (duh). I do have a rear sway, could probably lower it a tad. THX
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redshift
post Nov 3 2003, 05:17 PM
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That is raked almost exactly like my black car.

Raking.... maybe that is why I never get bump steer... never added that up.



M
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Bruce Allert
post Nov 3 2003, 06:26 PM
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QUOTE(redshift @ Nov 3 2003, 03:45 PM)
I like a little rake, front to back, depends on if there are sway bars in the rear.


M

Miles, what will having rear sway bars do regarding lowering & rake?
bruce
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redshift
post Nov 3 2003, 07:03 PM
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Tight, available... power induced oversteer.

I don't think I know enough about the physics involved to explain the difference, but if you raise the nose above the rear, and go for a quick ride, you'll know what you are doing by lowering it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I load up the front a # or two also, although I have been warned against it 1000 times. (adjusty drop links are nice)

My 1.7 is a mean bastard, my 2.0 is a wandering fool, last night I was running with some semi rigs over 90, the wake was like 6ft seas.

-rocking boat smiley-

I found my current favorite setup messing with a 5 hour pro alignment I didn't like.

I need suspension stuff for blackie!


M
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Bruce Allert
post Nov 3 2003, 07:10 PM
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So maybe it's best to keep it level? I have the rear sway & don't want to f**k things up.
Not sure if I completely understand (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
bruce
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redshift
post Nov 3 2003, 07:28 PM
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The higher the front end, the more the front inside wants to lift, bars, or not. (edit.... my logic module is iffy today)

I have a very small pre-load, and the rear inside seems to take some of that twist off the front inside.

The nose likes a lower center of gravity, relative to the rear, and I like to over-do that a small amount. It 'cuts' into the corner, and stays very *flat*.

Your car should be kicking much ass by now!


M
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Bruce Allert
post Nov 3 2003, 07:32 PM
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Ok, I think I got it... a tad bit of low nose pitch is good. I hated it when I was turning the wheel & the front wasn't turning. That understeer thing is really a helpless feeling.
bruce
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redshift
post Nov 3 2003, 07:54 PM
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Yeah man.

My running car has KYBs, no bars, and stock springs. I feel your ex-pain.

110 in this car feels like 190 in a Lincoln....

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)


M
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ChrisFoley
post Nov 4 2003, 06:25 AM
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QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Nov 3 2003, 05:01 PM)
i -think- (no references close at hand ...) the stock ride height is 105mm from ground to center of torsion bar.

The factory ride height measurement is read as the difference between the height of the center of the axle and the center of the torsion bar. The spec is 90mm I believe.
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rhodyguy
post Nov 4 2003, 06:55 AM
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the red car had the nose up look. i just brought it down with a framing square to approximatly equal demensions. the same point on all four corners. level concrete surface. 9 5/16" +- 1/16. not from the floor nessasarily, but the number on the face on the inside of the square. this takes a bit of time. adj, drive up and down the street, come back measure and adjust. the car will settle in a bit each time you play with it. when looking at the back end, if it sits level side to side you are very close. the car is a tad bit "darty" now. it will be aligned.

kevin


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Kerrys914
post Nov 4 2003, 07:19 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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Thanks guys..I'll take a look at my car and see how close I am. On my way into work I have been looking for a nice level spot to do the above..

Thanks Again
Kerry
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