New Shock Replacement, what about Ball Joints?? |
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New Shock Replacement, what about Ball Joints?? |
ldino21 |
Mar 11 2004, 04:08 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 62 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Fresno, CA Member No.: 316 |
I am getting ready to replace my stock shocks with Koni Yellow adjustable shocks all around, do most of you find it necessary to also replace the Front Ball joints at the same time?? Is there anything else I should consider repairing or replacing while I am doing this.
Also, I auto-crossed my 73-1.7 this weekend and on the first run my stock stabilizer bar broke off at the U-Tab bracket on the A-Arm. I am going to replace the Stabilizer bar with a 22mm Weltmeister Anti-Sway Bar in its place. Do you guys find it better to just weld the stock U-Tab back on, or should I just grind them off and put the bolt on tabs supplied by Welteister. Any suggestions please..... Lou |
ChrisReale |
Mar 11 2004, 04:11 PM
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#2
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Sleazy Group: Members Posts: 2,665 Joined: 20-January 03 From: San Francisco Member No.: 176 |
I say do the whole thing:shocks, ball joints, wheel bearings and a-arm bushings. Will take a bit longer, but you will get a lot of maintenence out of the way
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fiid |
Mar 11 2004, 04:13 PM
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#3
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Turbo Megasquirted Subaru Member Group: Members Posts: 2,827 Joined: 7-April 03 From: San Francisco, CA Member No.: 530 Region Association: Northern California |
I didn't do my ball joints or wheel bearnings. I plan to do them both when I go 5 lug, when I win the lottery.
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lagunero |
Mar 11 2004, 04:29 PM
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#4
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Donkey Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,042 Joined: 8-January 04 From: orange county,ca Member No.: 1,531 |
I'm doing the struts, tie rods and ball joints but no bearings or bushings. I know that it would be better to do all but, was it a big difference (like in Fiid's case) or can I wait til later to do the rest.
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ldino21 |
Mar 11 2004, 04:37 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 62 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Fresno, CA Member No.: 316 |
I was kinda hoping the same thing as fiid was saying, because I to eventually want to go to 5 lug later.
Do any of you think it makes a big difference whether I weld that U-tab back on or not?? |
tat2dphreak |
Mar 11 2004, 04:52 PM
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#6
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
excuse my ignorance:
I replace the wheel bearing on GPs(general principles) everytime I pull my rotors off the front... on the Ball joint though: how can you know when these need to be replaced? do it when the shocks need it? |
SirAndy |
Mar 11 2004, 04:54 PM
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#7
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,815 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(ldino21 @ Mar 11 2004, 02:37 PM) Do any of you think it makes a big difference whether I weld that U-tab back on or not?? bolt through is a no no ... do it the right way, weld 'em on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) just lay a nice seam all around and they won't brake again, promise. Andy |
thesey914 |
Mar 11 2004, 07:55 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,155 Joined: 1-January 03 From: Staffordshire -England Member No.: 66 |
The ball joint usually is fubar by the time you actually remove it. I've never managed to get one off without destroying the rubber boot and since there is no replacement boot it means new ball joint. Shame really as the ball joint is a major PITA to remove from the A arm!
Brad wrote once that he removes the ball joints every time without damage by jacking up the hub and using the torsion bar to help with the separation.....tried this only last night and despite repeated twatting with a BFH on the A arm plenty of heat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowtorch.gif) and WD40 no joy. I had to use the fork type ball joint splitter which is what wrecks the rubber seal. |
Brad Roberts |
Mar 11 2004, 07:58 PM
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#9
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
Yep. Just did this again less than 4 days ago using the torsion bars to help put tension on the ball joint.
Oh.. Lou.. weld them on. B |
d914 |
Mar 11 2004, 08:03 PM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,333 Joined: 12-July 03 From: Atlanta, ga Member No.: 904 Region Association: South East States |
electric impact gun worked great. ball joits where history.
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rhodyguy |
Mar 11 2004, 09:16 PM
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#11
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,188 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
since i'm spending your money. install some turbo tie rods as well. do it all, get an alignment. if you have a rear sway bar get all the bushings for that too. use a air chisel bit in one of the notchs in the retaining nut on the ball joint. it takes about 5 seconds.
kevin |
914werke |
Mar 12 2004, 12:26 AM
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#12
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,566 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Im missing somthing, I thought you had to unscrew the funky keeper from the bottome of the a-arm to reomove the b-joint?
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rhodyguy |
Mar 12 2004, 07:06 AM
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#13
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,188 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
the funky nut on the bottom is what i'm refering to. also, the pins that secures the ball joint to the strut tube can be tough to get out. when you reassemble DO NOT use the nut to draw the pins in. i learned the hard way and had to buy two new ones. they're kind of exspensive.
kevin |
ldino21 |
Mar 12 2004, 03:20 PM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 62 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Fresno, CA Member No.: 316 |
I would like to add turbo tie rods, but for now I am trying to keep my vehicle in CS Class for Autocrossing this year, and I was under the understanding that since my Sway Bar was standard equipment upgrading that was OK and that I could upgrade the shocks also, I am not sure if I upgrade the Tie Rods that I can stay in CS Class.
My biggest question was whether I needed to order the splined tool that Pelican sells to remove the Nut that holds the balljoint in place or if people use some thing thats cheaper without damaging it. |
lagunero |
Mar 12 2004, 03:52 PM
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#15
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Donkey Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,042 Joined: 8-January 04 From: orange county,ca Member No.: 1,531 |
Idino21, I think that question was answered. I don't think there's a safe way but to use the right tool. I'm doing this tommorrow and will probably use the sperm tool suggested.
rhodyguy, sorry but what do you mean buy "not drawing the pins in"? |
bob174 |
Mar 12 2004, 04:31 PM
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#16
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Member Group: Members Posts: 125 Joined: 9-January 03 From: League City, TX Member No.: 122 |
Idino21, when I did the turbo tie rod upgrade, the concensus was to use a pipewrench to get the nut off. It works great, however the pipe wrench will leave some bite marks on the nut. Is it a driver or a museum piece?
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JeffBowlsby |
Mar 12 2004, 04:44 PM
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#17
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,663 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None |
Lou, Dave Hunt on this BBS just a few months ago made his own tool to remove the castle nut. He took a large sized socket of the correct diameter and marked wheret he notches had to be, then cut out the nothces to make the tool to fit the nut. Ingenious if you ask me. Search for the thread or for DNHunt.
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914werke |
Mar 12 2004, 05:52 PM
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#18
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,566 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Jeff thats gotta be a 27-30mm socket!
How much is the sperm(?) tool? Evan a cheepo socket is gunna run some chingolla (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Then you still gotta take a grinder (Dave howd ya do it) to it. |
rhodyguy |
Mar 12 2004, 08:36 PM
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#19
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,188 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
i think dave cut it out of a galvanizsed pipe fitting and a piece of pipe. lagunero9catorce, (what's your name) the pin goes in tight . if you use the nut to pull the pin in, the pin will prob break. tap it on the other end with a little ball peen hammer. well, that's what i did the second time.
kevin |
lagunero |
Mar 12 2004, 08:57 PM
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#20
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Donkey Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,042 Joined: 8-January 04 From: orange county,ca Member No.: 1,531 |
rhodyguy thanks I got now. First time doing this so it was hard to visualize.
alberto |
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