Carb question, need to dump little gas in carb just to get car started |
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Carb question, need to dump little gas in carb just to get car started |
angerosa |
Apr 28 2013, 08:45 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Seems that this year I need to put a little gas into the carb to get the car started initially. I have single Solex carb that no one seems to be able to identify. I'm sure some PO just pulled it off something that was sitting in a junkyard. Once I get car started and it warms up it idles OK but runs rough when you try to drive it. Timing is spot on. Recent (not too many miles ago) tune up with the help of some very knowledgeable 914world brethren. Let’s say it’s a given that there is nothing wrong with the engine. I have an idea of where to go next. I’ve had car for about 7 years. With only what I’ve told you here what’s your opinion?
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Mike Bellis |
Apr 28 2013, 09:01 AM
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#2
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
If you have to dump gas in it, the throttle pump if not working. Either the gas is boiling out of the carb after you turn the car off or you need to replace the throttle pump assembly.
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ThePaintedMan |
Apr 28 2013, 09:17 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Agree with Mike. If the carb has never been rebuilt it could very well be that the accelerator pump diaphragm is shot. It will idle on the the gas running through the idle circuits, but when you give it added gas, the additional "shot" of fuel the accel. pump isn't there, or adequate to keep up with the additional air. Might be time for a rebuild? If these symptoms just sort of crept in, that might be a good place to start as the diaphragm slowly decays over time - eventually it just cracks or tears.
Also, FWIW, it might also be a good idea to get rid of that plastic fuel filter. Those things have a notoriously bad reputation for cracking, and in this case, it's going to run fuel down the sides of your engine... right onto the exhaust. |
angerosa |
Apr 28 2013, 10:52 AM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Yes - I agree. Time for a rebuild. I've had it for 7 years as I've said and never rebuilt the carb. It has slowly been getting worse over the last few years. So my dilemma is I can't find a rebuild kit for this carb. I even sent pictures to a place that sells rebuild kits for solex carbs used in manufacturing during the same era. They have a bunch of rebuild kits for ones used in all different makes and models including Volkswagens. They didn't recognize this one. Does anyone recognize it or know what will work?
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rhodyguy |
Apr 28 2013, 12:00 PM
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#5
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,188 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
is the one butterfly activated by the what looks like a seloniod? if you press on the peddle when cold is that when the butterfly closes? i don't know how that style works.
k |
Mike Bellis |
Apr 28 2013, 03:24 PM
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#6
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
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angerosa |
Apr 28 2013, 03:55 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
is the one butterfly activated by the what looks like a seloniod? if you press on the peddle when cold is that when the butterfly closes? i don't know how that style works. k Looks like a manual choke setup to me. Yes - It's a choke. I don't know why they need that big thing on the side for a manual choke. Not a solenoid though because there are no electrical leads going into or out of it. Look close at the side shot - there is a small piece of wire holding it open. Like I said no one seems to have ever seen this carb before. There is a previous post of mine from within the last couple years where I posted pictures here and asked "what kind of carb is this and where can I get a rebuild kit". |
angerosa |
Apr 28 2013, 04:10 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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warpig |
Apr 28 2013, 04:33 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 290 Joined: 2-August 10 From: Portland OR Member No.: 12,002 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I've got a set of dual weber 44's with manifolds and linkage, that need a rebuild, that I am not going to use if you want to upgrade. (carbs "and" motor) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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DBCooper |
Apr 28 2013, 06:39 PM
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#10
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14's in the 13's with ATTITUDE Group: Members Posts: 3,079 Joined: 25-August 04 From: Dazed and Confused Member No.: 2,618 Region Association: Northern California |
I agree, if you can't pump some gas into the carb with the pedal then your accelerator pump isn't working. On that carb I think you can see the accelerator pump linkage on the outside of the carb, and see if you're getting a stream of gas down in the carb as you work the throttle, so you should be able to diagnose that without taking anything apart.
That's an old "automatic" choke with the spiral spring inside that loses tension and lets the butterfly open when the carb heats up. It looks like there's a cable missing on the choke, or is it there and I can't make it out in the photo? Converted to manual with a cable? You say there's a spring holding it open? You've watched that choke butterfly before you've started the car and after? As it warms? Is the cable working the choke butterfly normally? The carb number is cast somewhere on the carb body, and you usually have to remove the carb to be able to read it. They should have a tag on one of the studs that gives you the configuration number, but those disappear. To me it looks like a Solex 34 or 32/34 PDSIT (my memnonic was "Police Department! SIT!"), but that's from a long time ago and my memory's not the best any more. See if there's a number on the carb, then send photos to maybe Pelican and Aircooled.net, see if the can tell for sure. I'd suggest the aftermarket 914 and VW people over a carb rebuilder. Rebuilders deal with everything, so a lot of variables. On the other hand the VW/914 aftermarket parts people sell those carb conversion kits every day, so they should be able to narrow it down a little easier. |
ThePaintedMan |
Apr 28 2013, 07:36 PM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Hmmm.. a search for Solex 32/34 or Solex progressive didn't return anything that looks like what Jason has. But DB is on the right track. You might need to pull the carb to verify this for sure... but I think it's a Solex C34. ->
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.ph...64&t=139538 What do you guys think? Jason, if you can find a rebuild kit, I can rebuild the carb for you. Or I/we can probably help you through it. |
ThePaintedMan |
Apr 28 2013, 07:38 PM
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#12
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
http://www.carbkits.com/catalog/pr/c5/3/solex%20carb
I think this is the kit, but I would verify the numbers on the carb first to make sure it's a C34. |
rhodyguy |
Apr 28 2013, 07:50 PM
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#13
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,188 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
maybe a ll he needs to do is replace the choke spring assem. one won't come in the rebuild kit.
so in theory you would press once fully on the peddle to set the choke, yes? partial winding of the spring? |
angerosa |
Apr 28 2013, 08:20 PM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I've got a set of dual weber 44's with manifolds and linkage, that need a rebuild, that I am not going to use if you want to upgrade. (carbs "and" motor) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I guess I can't use dual 44s on a stock 1.8 right? That'd be overkill. When the carb was working good, it was adequate and fun enough. I measured it to be 38. Some day I do want to upgrade the engine. I think I'm just looking to get my car dependable again at this point and if I can make it to the Deutschmarque Classic in Vienna, VA on May 5th that would be a plus. |
Mike Bellis |
Apr 28 2013, 08:28 PM
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#15
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,346 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
You could go to your local auto parts store and get an electric choke kit to fit that manual assembly. It would replace the black part. Around $10. It would help with the cold start if the cable is not connected.
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angerosa |
Apr 28 2013, 08:37 PM
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#16
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I agree, if you can't pump some gas into the carb with the pedal then your accelerator pump isn't working. On that carb I think you can see the accelerator pump linkage on the outside of the carb, and see if you're getting a stream of gas down in the carb as you work the throttle, so you should be able to diagnose that without taking anything apart. I didn't ever have anyone push the peddle for me while I watched in the barrel but I pushed it a bunch with the fuel pump running and then got out of the drivers seat and checked the barrel. Wasn't wet and I should have had a stronger gas smell so that would confirm what you and everyone else is saying. That's an old "automatic" choke with the spiral spring inside that loses tension and lets the butterfly open when the carb heats up. It looks like there's a cable missing on the choke, or is it there and I can't make it out in the photo? Converted to manual with a cable? You say there's a spring holding it open? You've watched that choke butterfly before you've started the car and after? As it warms? Is the cable working the choke butterfly normally? It's always open see attached pic for better explanation of what I was trying to say. The carb number is cast somewhere on the carb body, and you usually have to remove the carb to be able to read it. They should have a tag on one of the studs that gives you the configuration number, but those disappear. To me it looks like a Solex 34 or 32/34 PDSIT (my memnonic was "Police Department! SIT!"), but that's from a long time ago and my memory's not the best any more. See if there's a number on the carb, then send photos to maybe Pelican and Aircooled.net, see if the can tell for sure. I'd suggest the aftermarket 914 and VW people over a carb rebuilder. Rebuilders deal with everything, so a lot of variables. On the other hand the VW/914 aftermarket parts people sell those carb conversion kits every day, so they should be able to narrow it down a little easier. I'll have to pull it and take it around to some of the local shops. thanks for the advice. |
angerosa |
Apr 28 2013, 08:42 PM
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#17
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
You could go to your local auto parts store and get an electric choke kit to fit that manual assembly. It would replace the black part. Around $10. It would help with the cold start if the cable is not connected. maybe. After I get it rebuilt and it runs great I'll see. I've never really minded having to wait for it to warm up. |
angerosa |
Apr 28 2013, 08:47 PM
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#18
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Hmmm.. a search for Solex 32/34 or Solex progressive didn't return anything that looks like what Jason has. But DB is on the right track. You might need to pull the carb to verify this for sure... but I think it's a Solex C34. -> http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.ph...64&t=139538 What do you guys think? Jason, if you can find a rebuild kit, I can rebuild the carb for you. Or I/we can probably help you through it. Thanks George. I appreciate the offer. I'll have to pull the carb first and look for numbers. It's obvious that that's what I need to do to get it running right again. I'll probably undertake the rebuild myself. Sounds fun. But I'll be asking for advice here. |
angerosa |
Apr 29 2013, 06:48 PM
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#19
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-August 07 From: Reston, VA Member No.: 8,023 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
And ThePaintedMan wins it! Thanks George...
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ThePaintedMan |
Apr 29 2013, 08:49 PM
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#20
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Glad I could help and I got something right for once. I've been screwing up a lot lately, but I learn with each step. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Good luck Jason.
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