Hydraulic Clutch, This works GREAT! Options

[PRS914-6]

Seems like there is always interest in converting to a hydraulic clutch. Using a 911 clutch gives a bit of a stiff pedal but my biggest complaint was I didn't like the modulation and feel especially using a performance clutch disk. The 914-6 cable is much smaller in diameter than a 911 cable and aggravates the problem. In addition, my first gear is really tall and with a clutch that felt like it was on/off was a little annoying and down right scary when stopped on a hill with someone on my ass.

I picked up a new generic master cylinder and pull style slave (available at most any buggy shop for under $150.00 I also picked up a 4 ounce remote reservoir.

I made a plate that fit under the brake master cylinder and a bracket that fit on the side cover of my 915 tranny and ran the hydraulic lines down the tunnel. I also installed a bracket from the plate to the I beam of the suspension to eliminate any flex.

I'll cover the entire installation in a future issue of Excellence with the project car (at Pete's discretion) but here are a few pictures to show the method I used. The "feel" and modulation of the clutch is dramatically improved. Absolutely smooth as silk now.

[PRS914-6]

And a few more......


And Ron S. This is for you.....

[brp914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) That is something to be proud of. BTW, how are you shifting that 915? WEVO? Or did you do something wild there too? If WEVO, how do you like it?

[PRS914-6]

WEVO. I like it a lot. It shifts better and more precise than my 911 (but takes a tad more effort)

[76-914]

I know, I know. 3 demerits for bringing an old thread back to life but..........Paul would you mind posting some more on this. I wasn't around here then and don't have the Excellence article to peruse. TIA, kent

[KaptKaos]

It is me or does that master cylinder seem to be in the right most (throttle) position?

EDIT - NVM - I see it's being actuated by the clutch pedal.

[URY914]

The clutch pedal is on a shaft that passes thru the brake pedel base.

I'd like to see an update to this as well.

[biosurfer1]

I'm sure Paul will be along shortly but I've had the pleasure of testing this out in person and it really is a big difference and would make stop and go traffic a LOT more manageable.

[0396]

If Paul would offer "kit" I'm in....

[PRS914-6]

Here are a few pics that should help. You simply make a plate with 90 deg flange that goes under the brake mounting holes and extend it over to mount the clutch. Make a brace to the I beam. There is not much pressure for the clutch so it doesn't take a lot.

The pedal rod gets flipped forward and you will need to adjust length

FYI....it does not make it easier since it is a 1:1 ratio on cylinders. It does however make it MUCH smoother

[RonW]

nicely done. subscribed.

[RON S.]

Paul,

Welcome to the hydraulic world... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


I've had quite a few years of driving on mine, and it's always been a smooth linear motion.


You'll quickly get used to the nicer feel. No looking back now


Cheers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[racerx9146]

Larry hubby did a nice write up back in 2008 with some nice detailed diagrams using 944 factory parts. Halfway down this thread

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=90342&hl=

I am following Larry's example using the longer 911 clutch shaft and a bell crank at the transmission side to allow use of the 944 slave.

I did not create the nice aluminium shim Larry did due to my lack of machining skills but did a flat plate like Paul S.

The thicker plate also between cluster and brake move the master away from the cluster by 1/4" but you can make it up with adjustment on the rod. I also shim my brake, clutch pedals down a little bit to give my self more legroom.

Created a brace at the same time.

I also created a splitter down at the brake to share the rear fluid supply with clutch slave so I don't need an extra reservoir for the clutch.

I have not done the rear but my front looks like this, similar to Paul S.

Hardest part is running the hard line through the tunnel and back to transaxle cleanly.

Daron

My master setup.



I think this is Larry's slave setup. Could not find original post on this pic...

[GeorgeRud]

Any info on the size of the master or slave cylinders used for the clutch hydraulics? Was the positioning of the clutch pedal arm changed from stock? I can't quite understand what was changed, but certainly like the concept.

A bolt together kit would be nice!

[IronHillRestorations]

In '95 I used a 928 clutch master cylinder and put a Y in the brake fluid line to supply it, and a CNC pull slave cylinder.

[PRS914-6]

The sizes of the master and slave should be the same. That gives a 1:1 ratio just like the cable. 3/4 is an easy size to get. Look at buggy shop/sand rail/dunebuggy web sites. The entire hydraulic setup was only about $150.00 new and their generic design makes them easy and cheap to install and/or replace

It should be noted that you can get pull or push style slaves so you don't have to use a bell-crank. I used a pull style.

[76-914]

Paul, this is a great help. Thx again.

[dfelz]

Hey Paul, whats the bore diam. of the master cylinder you used?
And what is the "WEVO" thing referenced a few times in the thread?? Thanks!

[Dave_Darling]

The exact diameter is not very important, just that the master and slave diameters should match. As he said, 3/4" is easy to get ahold of and use.

WEVO is Windrush Evolutions, and they make (among other things) a shifter base that Paul is using.

--DD

[euro911]

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