3D914s 914-6 SHO 3.2L v6, Build Thread - Project for sale. See classifieds Options

[3d914]

OK here goes . . .

I sold my beautiful Ravenna 914/2.0 so I could develop a custom 914 in good conscience. The sweet Ravenna was to stock to cut up and customize, & an admiring buyer wanted to return her to full stock - so it seemed like the perfect match.

Now I've found a 74 1.7 that someone has already led down the path of the Dark Side (as the puritans see it), and I'll simply take it the rest of the way. Just as a warning - this is not meant to be a factory GT look alike or anything close. I want to incorporate some of my own ideas and those I like that others have done. In fact at this point its not even going to be a Porsche six. My initial intent is to go with the Ford 3.0L SHO. Plans may change when I get to that point, but that's where I'm headed.

It seems reasonable to start with Before pics, so heres a couple of the car before I started any dismantling:

[3d914]

This is the first I've been able to get back to the "black hole" since last week. After a couple hours of sanding, cutting, banging, I've cleared out the bulk of the filler to expose the metal around the edges that I have to work with.

It's as I thought. But there is enough there to do either a lap joint or a butt joint, depending on how badly mis-shaped the metal is. I feel a lot better at least knowing whats not behind there anymore. The filler is typically 3/8-1/2in thick!

Its also a given that the entire flare will have to be removed from this side. That's the next step.

[Wilhelm]

This is the first I've been able to get back to the "black hole" since last week. After a couple hours of sanding, cutting, banging, I've cleared out the bulk of the filler to expose the metal around the edges that I have to work with.

It's as I thought. But there is enough there to do either a lap joint or a butt joint, depending on how badly mis-shaped the metal is. I feel a lot better at least knowing whats not behind there anymore. The filler is typically 3/8-1/2in thick!

Its also a given that the entire flare will have to be removed from this side. That's the next step.

I'd drill out all those frigging rivets. Their just gonna allow moisture to wick up and create rust spots and electrolysis problems due to aluminum and steel next to each other. Heat the metal with a torch while working a putty knife between the flare and the flare should pop right off. When it comes time to bond the flare back on either use epoxy or urethane panel adhesive with temporary screws to hold fender on. When cured unscrew the screws and massage adhesive into the screw holes. This typically will create a more likely to be bullet proof repair.