 Another Rebuild Questions - last post, Distributor washer... |
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| stephenaki |
  Jan 24 2009, 03:35 AM
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Can I get this one dad??  Group: Members Posts: 1,183 Joined: 11-August 07 From: Palmetto, FL Member No.: 7,987 Region Association: None  |
First off, thanks for the replies. Now, I have the case assembled but, have not yet torqued the case. The Haynes says to spin the crank 360 and make sure nothing prevents it from spinning. She spins but takes a bit of muscle and slows down during the spin requiring a bit more muscle.
How much resistance should I have when I spin the crankshaft after assembly? My MG engines spun fairly easily and this is with pistons! Do I need to separate the case and re-check bearing seating? I don't want to continue until I am sure I have things set up right. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, I have everything cleaned up and getting ready to lay everything out. Three questions: 1. Is there an easier diagram other than on PP or in the AA catalog to help me ensure I put the bolts in the correct location on the crankcase? 2. Oil pump re-assembly. I have loctite 518 which Jake recommends for attaching the oil pump to the case. I have Curil T and K2 as well but I don't have anything to reseal the cover to the pump. Can I use loctite 518 or do I need to find something else to ensure it seals properly? 3. Final question. How much of a bead of K2 do I use for the crank case? |
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| r_towle |
Jan 25 2009, 03:36 PM
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,624 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States 
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Great news.
Its a common issue with the dowel pins. That is why you turn it each time...especially as you torque down the bolts on the case...that is when you will know...it should always spin freely. The other place to pay attention is after you put a piston/cylinder in place. If you mess up the oil ring and bend it, it will provide alot of resistance... You will need a new oil ring, but its better than a whole new piston and cylinder... It should never be hard to rotate until you put in the plugs...then you have compression to fight against...all the way up to that point you can rotate it by hand. Pre-oil everything with 30 weight oil.. Rich |
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Posts in this topic
stephenaki Another Rebuild Questions - last post Jan 24 2009, 03:35 AM
StratPlayer Here's a thread on all the crank case bolts.
h... Jan 24 2009, 08:33 PM McMark Loctite 518 (the red stuff) is necessary for the o... Jan 24 2009, 09:35 PM sww914 I wouldn't use K2 on the case halves, that... Jan 25 2009, 01:54 AM stephenaki :bump:
Forgot that doing an edit doesn't bump... Jan 25 2009, 08:26 AM r_towle Take it apart, check the bearings.
You may have a ... Jan 25 2009, 10:09 AM
Bleyseng
Take it apart, check the bearings.
You may have a... Jan 25 2009, 10:35 AM stephenaki Thanks all. It bugged me to no end so I did just ... Jan 25 2009, 11:54 AM Mark Henry It might not be "hard" but the rings do ... Jan 25 2009, 04:39 PM stephenaki Distributor washer question.
As I read through th... Feb 2 2009, 01:22 PM Cap'n Krusty It's a thick washer that slips over the end of... Feb 2 2009, 02:09 PM hcdmueller Check your distributor drive pinion. My washer wa... Feb 2 2009, 02:37 PM stephenaki Thanks, I will take a look this evening after work... Feb 3 2009, 01:30 AM |
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