Engine is dropped, was easier the second time around |
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Engine is dropped, was easier the second time around |
VaccaRabite |
May 10 2009, 08:17 PM
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#1
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,554 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Engine is down to rebuild after the low oil episode at Hershey. I'm probably don't need to rebuild it, but I am adding a new cam and I want to do some things that I did not know about when I built it the first time in 2007.
I pulled the engine out of my car this afternoon after trimming the hedges and killing all the weeds I could find to kill. I had removed the exhaust and CV bolts the other day. Drop went REAL easy. I used Foley's engine plate on a jack, and it was a 1 hour job (including removing the CVs, carbs, wires, etc). Did it all by my onesy while smoking a cigar. Tin is off, engine and tranny are still attached. I'm going to cut the grass again tomorrow and then remove the transmission. maybe get the eads off too, depending on how much energy I have. My goal is to have the engine stripped and back together in a month. I need to find out why the pump was not making pressure, add the cam, and remeasure all my bearing tolerances. I also want to change the distributor drive gear. The one in th engine now is a little worn. I have a very nicer one that i am going to put on the crank. When we were timing the engine a few months ago, the timing line was dancing around a little bit, and I think it was due to the drive gear wearing. I am also going to pull all the galley plugs (the are already tapped, so that will be easy) and make sure they are not blocked or sludge filled. I also want to take the craptastic aftermarket oil dipstick tube off and put on a proper 914 dipstick tube. That was a big part of my failure - trusting the aftermarket dipstick. So, any way, a few pics of the drop. (IMG:http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3599/3519841329_7df0721de1.jpg) Came down so easy. I did not even have to remove the rear valence. Way less complicated then with the FI on. Here is a mystery. One of the things that I want to do is see if I can button up any leaks. It figures that I got the last known leak the week before I decide to take down my engine. But there was one more elusive drip. (IMG:http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3637/3520656296_c743c979c0.jpg) Do you see the oil under those two studs? How the heck does oil get there? There is also a little on the ridge right under the serial number. Here is another pic of the area. (IMG:http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3647/3519842797_cd8543ca4b.jpg) So, but the end of the week, I hope to have the case split and cleaned and measured over the weekend. Aggressive schedule, but I only have 2 weeks of no classes until summer classes start again. Then the next time I will have to work with my motor is when I take off a week in June for my birthday. I'm hoping to have this sucker done by then! In june, I want to get my truck on the road. Zach |
VaccaRabite |
May 11 2009, 08:27 AM
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#2
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,554 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
What is a crank vent? I have to assume this is different then the vents I have in the heads.
Zach |
904svo |
May 11 2009, 09:19 AM
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#3
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904SVO Group: Members Posts: 1,124 Joined: 17-November 05 From: Woodstock,Georgia Member No.: 5,146 |
What is a crank vent? I have to assume this is different then the vents I have in the heads. Zach The heads vent are two of them the third one is on the oil filler, some cars have a PVC valve some don't, this used to go to the air clearner to remove the fumes from the crankcase. When you change to carbs these now have to go to a breather box, Jake sells them. You would be suprise how much pressure is generated when the engine is running this will cause oil to be push pass the valve stems and may cause problems on new engines causing the rings not do set right. |
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