Advice needed: Dropped the engine...and found... |
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Advice needed: Dropped the engine...and found... |
PBC914 |
May 28 2011, 03:16 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 192 Joined: 30-December 10 From: Minneapolis Member No.: 12,545 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
...a broken upper case! This is the first time I've had time to drop the engine and do some major work on the engine itself. I bought it this winter and was not able to view the engine closely because of all of the debris on it. It was not running at the time. It looks like the cylinder broke on top, and broker the case on the passenger side on top. I found a rusty connecting rod piece. Major bummer.
Question-is the case repairable? I want to keep the car original with the original engine. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. |
70_914 |
May 28 2011, 04:38 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 395 Joined: 4-December 09 From: Roy, WA Member No.: 11,096 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Take it to an aluminum welder and ask, don't take the opinions of people online who can't even see the engine...
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stewteral |
May 28 2011, 06:44 PM
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#3
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Old Member Group: Members Posts: 384 Joined: 4-December 07 From: Camarillo, CA Member No.: 8,424 Region Association: Southern California |
Take it to an aluminum welder and ask, don't take the opinions of people online who can't even see the engine... Another Opinion: The "weldability" of the cases is dependent on the Aluminum alloy and the Germans do LOVE mixing Magnesium into their aluminum. I do NOT know what the alloy is, but know it could very problomatic welding. The best thing is to call a weld shop and ask them about their experience trying to save cases. The point that no one has mentioned: IF a case CAN be welded, there is NO doubt that any matting surfaces will have to be re-machined. It the break is around the bores, it may work OK. However, if the break involves the case mating surface to the other case half, the surface must be milled and THEN the cases, bolted together, will HAVE to be line-bored for bearing fit. The last question: What forces created the break in the case? Will you feel SURE that a weld repair will recreate the strength of the original casting? Lots of unknowns here! If it were MY engine, I'd find another engine and rebuild it...or....At the very least a replacement case and extensive rebuild ot the internals. A last (and probably distasteful choice to most 914ers) would be to go Straight VW, dump the EXPENSIVE Type IV engine and enjoy the volume pricing of building a 2200 cc Type II or type I engine. The parts are EVERYWHERE and they are cheap relative to 411!. I'm currently doing a complete bare-chassis restoration of a '73 and ended up putting $1000 in the engine rebuild. I must admit that the cost included being raped by AutoAtlanta on main bearing: $200, a Weber carb setup for $250 (used) and extra cost for BIG Bores (1.7l goes to 1.9l). BTW: I've been rebuilding street and race engines for 49 years) Hope this helps, but the decision is YOURS, Terry |
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