d-jet a.a.r. question, 8/18/ AAR open vs closed - effect on setting timing-advance |
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d-jet a.a.r. question, 8/18/ AAR open vs closed - effect on setting timing-advance |
DRPHIL914 |
Aug 10 2011, 08:50 PM
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#1
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,808 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
I e tested 4 now and after 10 min none of them close completely or at all. Either way could it be because of a bad connection? Not hot enough? I know atleast one, the newest one was tested as good and is very clean. I know they can go bad inside but I do not think they all are.
But after 10 min of car at idle its still pulling air thru, suggestions please. Phil |
euro911 |
Aug 11 2011, 08:35 PM
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#2
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! Group: Members Posts: 8,855 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California |
I just refurbished a couple of them recently. They were heating up so the electrical circuits were fine, but they weren't physically closing completely.
If electrically good (VOM = 12-15 ohms & it's heating up when power is applied), try the following: 1. Soak the innards of the stack in PB Blaster for a couple of days with some plugs or rubber caps to keep the liquid from leaking out of the ports. 2. Remove the caps, drain the fluid and blow out with compressed air, then fill with PB and caps again. 3. Apply power for 15 minutes. Shut off power and let it cool completely. Repeat this cycle several times. 4. When it's completely cold, remove the caps, drain & blow out with compressed air again and check to make sure the black coke residue is gone. 5. If not, repeat steps 3 & 4 again until the fluid is clean. 6. Drain the fluid & apply power for 15 minutes again. When hot, try to blow air through ... it should not pass any air. 7. Check to make sure air flows through when it's completely cold. 8. Spray a final quick spritz of PB or WD-40 in the top port to keep the shaft lubricated. 9. At some point in the future, remove the AAR and clean it out again just to keep it working properly. |
DRPHIL914 |
Aug 13 2011, 03:05 PM
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#3
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,808 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
I just refurbished a couple of them recently. They were heating up so the electrical circuits were fine, but they weren't physically closing completely. If electrically good (VOM = 12-15 ohms & it's heating up when power is applied), try the following: 1. Soak the innards of the stack in PB Blaster for a couple of days with some plugs or rubber caps to keep the liquid from leaking out of the ports. 2. Remove the caps, drain the fluid and blow out with compressed air, then fill with PB and caps again. 3. Apply power for 15 minutes. Shut off power and let it cool completely. Repeat this cycle several times. 4. When it's completely cold, remove the caps, drain & blow out with compressed air again and check to make sure the black coke residue is gone. 5. If not, repeat steps 3 & 4 again until the fluid is clean. 6. Drain the fluid & apply power for 15 minutes again. When hot, try to blow air through ... it should not pass any air. 7. Check to make sure air flows through when it's completely cold. 8. Spray a final quick spritz of PB or WD-40 in the top port to keep the shaft lubricated. 9. At some point in the future, remove the AAR and clean it out again just to keep it working properly. Ok so I went thru and first off tested the 12v line to the a.a.r. and I do not find Any voltage on that connector, so now what? Can I run a direct connection from the coil #15(+) or replace that harness. I just put a new Bowlsby f.I. harness on recently.?? Phil |
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