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> New to forum and 914's, first engine start in 30 years?
Fleetwood914
post Dec 31 2011, 01:50 AM
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Hey guys, new to the forum with very little 914 working knowledge.

Helping my dad get his '72 914-4 back to drivable condition after lying dormant for almost 30 years, mostly thanks to me being born. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Pretty familiar with wrenching on my own car, '95 Caprice 9C1. Yes, the cop car...
Got it setup for autoX/track days, hoping to eventually help my dad do the same with his 914.


What should be done for proper prep before trying to start the car for the first time in 30 years?

Pull spark plugs and get some penetrating oil down the cylinders?

Any way to turn the oil pump with a drill or anything like that?

Obviously draining the tank and fresh gas, but will build up and varnish be an issue even with fresh gas?

Best way to turn the motor over by hand to make sure things are moving freely? Dad says there is a nut on the fan, attached to crank that would probably work? Direction to turn?

Not at all familiar with these engines or starting long dormant cars.

Any info or advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Here is a pic with Dad from Christmas after unearthing the car from 30 years worth of junk piled on and around it.Attached Image
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Tom_T
post Dec 31 2011, 11:30 AM
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As someone whose 73 914 also sat for almost 30 years (since May 85) mostly due to kids coming along & sucking up Dad's spare budget.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
... to both you & your Dad!

As the others above have said:

replace all rubber fuel & brake lines - I'll add check & replace as needed all of the vacuum lines,

change out the fuel & fluids,

get a fresh battery - preferably a gel cell (e.g.: Optima) or dry cell (e.g.: Odyssey) - or at least a sealed cell (e.g.: Interstate),

change the fuel & oil filters & flushing the fuel tank is a good idea - but if it's rusted inside you'll need to refinish or replace it (at least the old fuel was ethanol & MTBE free (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ),

check & clean the injectors (depending on engine - some NOS ones are still around at a price or the rebuild route noted above);

clean & spray with dielectric oil or dielectric grease (e.g.: Wurth Connector Oel) at all of the EFI, Ignition & power connectors you can find,

check & clean/gap or replace as needed the plugs, points, condenser & injector points (below ignition points in distributor) & plug/coil wires (they're 30 years old now & insulation must be shot);

replace those old tires,

check if you need to rebuild the brake calipers &/or MC (MC available new, member vendor PMB on here sells MCs & can rebuild/restore the calipers),

then fuel & try her out & evaluate what else may need to be replaced or repaired.

I'm sure I forgot some, so look through the garage threads for what others in this situation have been advised (search function at tab above).

Have Fun! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
Tom
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rohar
post Dec 31 2011, 12:39 PM
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QUOTE(Tom_T @ Dec 31 2011, 09:30 AM) *


As the others above have said:

replace all rubber fuel & brake lines - I'll add check & replace as needed all of the vacuum lines,

change out the fuel & fluids,


These things cannot be said enough. All the rubber parts on a teener are subject to wear. As part of our treaty with Germany after WWII polyurethane production was restricted. The result is that all the rubber on these older German cars is less than what we'd expect over here in the states.

Oh, and flush that fuel tank. I just recently forgot to do that on a 944 I brought out of the mothballs. Cost me a fuel pump.
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