914 rear brake conversion to 911 parts Options

[shoguneagle]

I have recently converted my 914 rear brakes to 911 ones. The changes were made from all the advice, threads, etc found on this site and 914club.com. I have been over the entire installation and everything seems in order and done correctly;

The problem relates to the left side rear e-brake shoes causing the rotor assembly not to rotate when everything is torqued down. The right side appears to rotate when torque is on the rotor. It appears the brake shoes are digging into the rotor when torque is applied. I do not notice any tracing of scaping anywhere on the inside of the rotor assembly. I am working on the idea that the clearance may be wrong such as brake shoes not arched properly, etc. These same shoes and rotors were used on the donating 911 so I am operating somewhat at a loss.

Any information and advice is greatly appreciated.

Steve Hurt
shoguneaagle

[shoguneagle]

The problem is the backplate and/or the grinding of the hub area to place the backplate on as tight and correct as possible. How do I know this?

The hub when placed on the studs and torqued down does not turn; spacing the hub and then torquing the lugs allows the axle to turn. Remember all the movement and stopage I had was attributed to lateral plane (direction: in and out on axle plane). It does move freely with approiate shims (washers used).

Most appropriate action is to see if I can remove the bolts holding the flange plate (holds bearings in) without removing the stub shaft. By going this route I can see if I need to remove the wheel hub (going to cost me a new bearing) and what are the possibilities of grinding the hub down for better seating. May also have to straighten the backplate. Depending on the outcome, I can proceed to correct the problem.

If I have to remove the hub (costing me a bearing) and I cannot get the retainer plate bolts out, then I will go to the temporary fix of shimming the rotor and the calipers. This should be functional and should last until I get the car ready and tested for the road. Still have to work details out.

The correct way is to grind down the hub flanges and fix the backplate on properly making sure it is perpendicular to the axle (90degrees); the backplate has to be checked for bending, etc.

The correct procedure if the bolts to the flange plate cannot be removed and hub ground down is to remove the hub thus costing a bearing and time to replace. Grind down the bearing hub flanges and make sure there backplate mounts correctly, is not bent, and 90degrees to the axle plane. Then reinstall everything.

The problem was caused by grinding down the hub flanges as per directions. I did not allow for the thinkness of the paint, etc. so I was marginal on everything which caused one side to cut into the rotor (e-brake area) when everything was assembled and torqued down.

Steve