Grinding into 2nd, SOLVED but new problem...which oil to fill? |
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Grinding into 2nd, SOLVED but new problem...which oil to fill? |
larss |
May 21 2013, 04:54 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 429 Joined: 10-September 09 From: Sweden Member No.: 10,787 Region Association: Scandinavia |
After replacing bushings at my 914/4 -72 tailshift and re-adjusting the linkage I have a almost perfect shift in any gears and at any speed.
The only problem (right now) is that when starting cold in the morning (say 50-55F) there is a grind when shifting into 2nd. This is during the first minutes only, after that shifting into 2nd is like a dream again. The grind is wery noisy, almost as I try to get in reverse. I run Swepco 201. Any ideas? /Lars S |
Cap'n Krusty |
May 23 2013, 08:12 AM
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#2
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Remove the shifter assembly and carefully inspect the lockout plate and the condition of the lever. Odds are both are worn. Plates are still available, I believe. (Part number for the plate is 901 724 017 00.) If not, or if you're willing to put forth A little effort and can weld, you can repair the plate and the shaft by hardfacing both and grinding/filing them back to where they should be. A MIG welder should do the job right.
The Cap'n |
larss |
May 24 2013, 08:57 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 429 Joined: 10-September 09 From: Sweden Member No.: 10,787 Region Association: Scandinavia |
Remove the shifter assembly and carefully inspect the lockout plate and the condition of the lever. Odds are both are worn. Plates are still available, I believe. (Part number for the plate is 901 724 017 00.) If not, or if you're willing to put forth A little effort and can weld, you can repair the plate and the shaft by hardfacing both and grinding/filing them back to where they should be. A MIG welder should do the job right. The Cap'n Thanks Cap'n! Before I started to look at the plate I made another check on the rod joint in the tunnel, I could then see (from close photos before/after) that instead of just twisting the rear rod one spline I had twisted it 3 splines, Sorry for that misinformation! Twisted the rod back 2 splines and tested: it shifts like a dream, no more grinding into 2nd and no more hard shifting out of 1st, all gears perfect. My only remaining question is: should I keep the good brand (ELF) GL5 80W/90 oil which I just changed to in looking for shifting improvments, or should I go back to the Swepco 201 which i saved? /Lars S |
Cap'n Krusty |
May 24 2013, 10:09 AM
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#4
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Remove the shifter assembly and carefully inspect the lockout plate and the condition of the lever. Odds are both are worn. Plates are still available, I believe. (Part number for the plate is 901 724 017 00.) If not, or if you're willing to put forth A little effort and can weld, you can repair the plate and the shaft by hardfacing both and grinding/filing them back to where they should be. A MIG welder should do the job right. The Cap'n Thanks Cap'n! Before I started to look at the plate I made another check on the rod joint in the tunnel, I could then see (from close photos before/after) that instead of just twisting the rear rod one spline I had twisted it 3 splines, Sorry for that misinformation! Twisted the rod back 2 splines and tested: it shifts like a dream, no more grinding into 2nd and no more hard shifting out of 1st, all gears perfect. My only remaining question is: should I keep the good brand (ELF) GL5 80W/90 oil which I just changed to in looking for shifting improvments, or should I go back to the Swepco 201 which i saved? /Lars S Put the Swepco in a jug and hang onto it. Personally, I think Swepco products are a solution looking for a problem, and they are really good at removing the deposits of cash that coat the interior of your wallet. The gear oil you have in it now will be good for years, if not decades. The only thing that goes wrong with gear oil is an accumulation of particulates. It doesn't suffer from breakdown as a result of the combustion process like engine oil. The Cap'n |
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