So you want to rebuild your Webers?, Here is how I did RoadGlue's Weber 40 IDFs. |
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So you want to rebuild your Webers?, Here is how I did RoadGlue's Weber 40 IDFs. |
ThePaintedMan |
Mar 27 2013, 08:48 PM
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Awhile back, Randy (RoadGlue) gave me the opportunity to rebuild his Weber 40 IDFs, and I thought I'd take the opportunity to document the process. I'm also going to try give a little insight on some of the tips and tricks I have learned along the way. Keep in mind, this thread is a work in progress, as Randy and I are still tracking down some of the parts these carbs were missing.
Now, I understand for most people, the process is fairly straightforward and many of you will think it unnecessary to give a step-by-step. After all, most rebuild kits only include a handful of parts and the location and function of most pieces are obvious. But there are some important additional steps that one can take to truly ensure the rebuild process goes smooth and that you won't have to do this over again immediately after reinstalling the carbs. Here it goes! First, I would like to outline the fact that not all Webers are the same. Not only are there different models of IDFs (the 36, the 40, the 44 and the much rarer 48), but there are "early" style carbs and "later" ones. I'll try to list some of the most obvious differences, which are to the best of my knowledge true in most cases, but may not hold true in all of them. Here are the tools you'll need for the job: -Carburetor rebuild kits (CB Performance or Redline are the most common) -8mm open/closed end wrench -10mm open/closed end wrench -11mm open/closed end wrench -19mm open/closed end wrench -Smaller flat tip screwdriver -Large flat tip screwdriver -Brass brush -Paint gun brush cleaning set -Small hammer -Brass punch set -Razor blade -Carb cleaner -B-12 Carb dip -Anti-seize -Shop towels -Compressed air source (preferably) -Clean workspace, preferably with white background Optional: - (4) 3/8 x 24 Brass Hex grub/set screws - Allen keys -SAE Tap and Die set Below is a picture of an early and late set of Weber 40 IDFs. Some of the characteristics of EARLY versions are: -Short emulsion tube holders -Short throttle shafts with little overhang outside of the carb body -Non-sealed, ball-in-cage style throttle shaft bearings -Cam-actuated, non-adjustable accelerator pump assembly -No ports for "ported" vacuum (still has 2 "manifold" vacuum ports) -76 degree bevel throttle plates (this may or may not hold true for every set of early carbs) -No throttle return springs installed from factory (thanks Kevin for clarification) -Most (all?) were made in Italy and are stamped as such Later style Weber 40 IDFs (Weber 40 XEs) are usually characterized by: -Taller emulsion tube holders which extend above the carb top -Longer throttle shafts -Sealed black throttle shaft bearings -Adjustable, spring cushioned accelerator pump assembly -One pre-drilled ported vacuum port in addition to two threaded manifold vacuum ports -78 degree bevel throttle plates -Factory installed throttle return springs -Made in Spain, but potentially also Italy and Brazil Please note that most of these instructions to follow are also true for 44s and 48s as well. The main difference being the way that the secondary venturis are designed. |
ThePaintedMan |
Dec 17 2013, 05:26 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Next, turn the carb top over and allow the float to hang down freely. With the same procedure as before, measure the distance from the gasket to the same edge of the float as in the previous setting. Bend the tab at the back of the float fulcrum point as necessary to achieve the proper distance.
Once you're happy with the float settings, set the carb top down carefully and move back to the body. Give it one last look through, maybe a shot of carb cleaner in the bowl, and then blow it out upside down with compressed air. This is the last time you'll have to remove debris from it so be thorough. Once complete, install the top on the carb body and tighten down the five screws in a criss-cross pattern. I start with the centermost screw and work across towards the outside of the carb. |
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