Crankcase Breathing |
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Crankcase Breathing |
Bulldog9 |
Sep 19 2015, 02:44 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 705 Joined: 21-August 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,283 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
As I round the final corner, I need to wrap up the crankcase breather and fuel tank vent system. The 912E has a fuel filler vent that runs from the tank to a canister up front, then runs a small vacuum line to the rear that plugs into what looks like a charcoal canister. This canister also has a larger inlet and outlet. I am assuming the outlet can go to the breather can, and also lines from breather can to the inside of the air filter on the carbs.
Looking at the left side of the fan housing on the type 4 motor, I see a nipple. I'm 99% sure that this is to go to the inlet side of the vac canister. Based on some of my reading and files,, I've been planning a simple breather can. http://www.hamincgroup.com/type4-test.php I decided to draw out what I am planning, black lines are confirmed, the blue is what I am thinking. Anyone have recommendations or thoughts on this? I've seen breather cans that run from $80 - $300. Thanks Attached thumbnail(s) |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 21 2015, 09:01 PM
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#2
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,048 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Correct. The "E", after all, stands for "Einspritzung", which is German for "fuel injection".
Mind you, that is following a pretty specific definition of "right". You can probably find a way to make it work, but it won't be "right". When you change stuff that the factory originally put on there, you more often than not have to do some re-engineering, or accept someone else's re-engineering. Even if it just means adapting something the factory did in different circumstances. --DD |
Bulldog9 |
Sep 23 2015, 01:19 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 705 Joined: 21-August 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,283 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Well, if that's the standard for right, my car is all wrong ;-)
Brakes - 1983 master cyl, vented rotors, calipers, pads all around Suspension - Rebel Racing Bushings all 4 corners Clutch/Pressure plate - 6 spring Engine - 96MM P&C, Big cam, type 1 oil pump, 1.7 rockers with 911 swivel adjusters, big valves and ported heads, Pertronix Ign II billet dizzy, Dellorto carbs, Tangerine Exhaust, AFM, CHT added Dash - added dual gauge out of 911, moved clock and fuel gauge to center of dash (ashtray area) and replaced with aux fan/in place of clock and fuel gauge. Interior - Center console, door panels and armrests from 88 911SC, Blaupunkt Toronto 420 Head unit with 5 1/4" Infinity Kappa Door speakers. MOMO Steering Wheel, silver shifter arm, aluminum door pulls and window cranks. Alas, SO much NOT right in my car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I think a better way to say it is 'factory-correct' not right ;-) My goal is to do all this wrong stuff .... well right, lol. Seriously though, I appreciate everyone's help on my rebuild. I'm an old wrench, but this is my first P car, and the only thing I have to go on is the mess I disassembled over the last couple years and what I read and research in the forums and in manuals. Its been a fun journey, and know that turning the key is just the beginning of a new phase of the project. Correct. The "E", after all, stands for "Einspritzung", which is German for "fuel injection". Mind you, that is following a pretty specific definition of "right". You can probably find a way to make it work, but it won't be "right". When you change stuff that the factory originally put on there, you more often than not have to do some re-engineering, or accept someone else's re-engineering. Even if it just means adapting something the factory did in different circumstances. --DD |
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