Car porn not 914 but related, hey it's all in the family, Unbelievable pictures |
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Car porn not 914 but related, hey it's all in the family, Unbelievable pictures |
Mikey914 |
Dec 21 2015, 10:57 AM
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#1
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,711 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
A customer of mine in is doing a 67 912 resto from tub up. The early 912s had the same issues with rust we do and even has foam in them too (just like our 914s).
He used a company in Ohio to dip the car and dissolve the crud (he did scrape off the tar) ans ecoat the entire car. He did the doors 1st to see if he would like the results, and wow! Looks like new metal. Looks like Stoddard will be doing a full write up on this car at some point, but I was so impressed with the results that though I would share. Attached thumbnail(s) |
John |
Dec 23 2015, 05:19 PM
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#2
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member? what's a member? Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA) Member No.: 1,615 Region Association: None |
What I can tell you is that the owner of the E-coat probably makes DAMN sure that whatever goes into the E-coat tank is CLEAN! The cost of a tank of E-Coat paint large enough to dip the whole tub is nothing to sneeze about. Contaminating said tank of paint would render it worthless.
Typically with an E-Coating process, there would be several stages of pretreatment in order to clean the parts. On a tank this large, it would more than likely be several stages of dip-pretreatment, followed by the e-coat tank, then a post rinse (to rinse off the non coated E-coat paint. Then the E-Coated parts would enter a curing oven that first brings the metal temp up to just below boiling point of water for 10-15 minutes to drive off moisture (dehydration zone), and then the parts would be typically be brought up to a metal temperature of approximately 400deg for around 45-60 minutes. Once cooled, the parts are done. This process would have the advantage of completely cleaning acid from the joints and effectively coating all surfaces that the E-Coat process can coat (excludes closed box sections that create Faraday Cages). The E-Coat needs to be top coated as it is not very UV stable. It would make for an excellent primer. The 914's were originally dip primer coated in a similar process back in the 70's. It was the precursor to what we know now as E-Coating. That is the thin grey primer typically found when one strips the tar/sound deadener from the floors of a 914. We build industrial E-coat and Powder Coat systems where I work. I think it looks great. For my $0.02, our track car was chemically stripped back in 1984 when it got it's factory flares. To this day, the tub remains clean. The only paint problems we have had with it were self induced. We experienced no bubbling of paint. That typically comes from poor prepwork. |
Brett W |
Dec 24 2015, 02:43 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,858 Joined: 17-September 03 From: huntsville, al Member No.: 1,169 Region Association: None |
The 914's were originally dip primer coated in a similar process back in the 70's. It was the precursor to what we know now as E-Coating. That is the thin grey primer typically found when one strips the tar/sound deadener from the floors of a 914. None of the 914s I have cut apart had primer inside the rocker panels, frame rails, etc. Dipping would mean they couldn't put that weird paper muffler inside the rockers. if they had dipped them we wouldn't be dealing with so much rust. For a track car with the budget, I would absolutely dip it or bake it in an oven to get all the crap out of the chassis. That is a the best way to clean up the seams and all the points where you need to weld. |
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