Need to Power Car Radio on the Bench Top, 110v to 12v converter |
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Need to Power Car Radio on the Bench Top, 110v to 12v converter |
gcrotvik |
Dec 31 2016, 02:44 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 361 Joined: 16-December 09 From: Portland Oregon Member No.: 11,134 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Trying to find a 110 volt power supply to power a 12 volt car radio for installation and sound testing. Looked on-line and need a recomendation as to what to use/buy.
Thanks, Greg |
Chris914n6 |
Jan 1 2017, 03:27 PM
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#2
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Jackstands are my life. Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 14-March 03 From: Las Vegas, NV Member No.: 431 Region Association: Southwest Region |
The fan is more than 10a just by itself.
If jumper cables from the car with a battery won't work, spurge for a jump box. I went with the 1000a minus the crap air compressor for work, but this one is currently on saleStanley 'FatMax' 700-Amp Peak Jump Starter. It's my battery substitute for all the project cars. A battery charger, specially the newer ones, are expecting a battery, not the variable demands of an operating car. Older charges will also introduce a hum to the speakers, specially with an amp. |
stugray |
Jan 1 2017, 07:08 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
The fan is more than 10a just by itself. If jumper cables from the car with a battery won't work, spurge for a jump box. I went with the 1000a minus the crap air compressor for work, but this one is currently on saleStanley 'FatMax' 700-Amp Peak Jump Starter. It's my battery substitute for all the project cars. A battery charger, specially the newer ones, are expecting a battery, not the variable demands of an operating car. Older charges will also introduce a hum to the speakers, specially with an amp. Yeah, sorry I was talking about just the radio or any component by itself. It likely wont run the whole car (at once) for testing. |
Bartlett 914 |
Jan 1 2017, 09:56 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,216 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Jameco Power Supply
These guys have a lot of options. This one would work nicely and is pretty cheap |
pbanders |
Jan 2 2017, 06:40 AM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 939 Joined: 11-June 03 From: Phoenix, AZ Member No.: 805 |
Jameco Power Supply These guys have a lot of options. This one would work nicely and is pretty cheap That's a nice, inexpensive 12V option with good output. FWIW, I find having a 12V supply that can put out at least 5A invaluable for testing most anything electrical from a car. A supply like this one is nice because it beats lugging a battery around, provides clean 12V with minimal ripple, and can be easily put in a drawer when not in use. FYI, if someone out there buys this supply, it probably doesn't come with a power cord, get one or cut up an extension cord to use with it. |
jd74914 |
Jan 2 2017, 07:29 AM
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#6
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,796 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
Jameco Power Supply These guys have a lot of options. This one would work nicely and is pretty cheap That's a nice, inexpensive 12V option with good output. FWIW, I find having a 12V supply that can put out at least 5A invaluable for testing most anything electrical from a car. A supply like this one is nice because it beats lugging a battery around, provides clean 12V with minimal ripple, and can be easily put in a drawer when not in use. FYI, if someone out there buys this supply, it probably doesn't come with a power cord, get one or cut up an extension cord to use with it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I use those cheap Mean Well switching power supplies all of the time. They work great, especially for the price if you don't need instrumentation grade power. The dual or triple output units are really convenient too. As Brad said you will need a power cord. All you get is the power supply. |
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