Shifter Linkage Upgrade |
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Shifter Linkage Upgrade |
Montreal914 |
May 27 2018, 03:35 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
When I first saw the JWest shift linkage upgrade (NLA), I though it was a very elegant way to handle the support of the ball sleeve mechanism in the side shift gearbox console. I assume cost was the reason Porsche didn't do it that way.
I've always wanted to do something similar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) . Being on a budget, I decided to modify/fabricated all of the components myself but pretty much all of this upgrade can be done with parts available through our member vendors here in one form or another. Here we go! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) Shift Console Preparation All of this started when I got a spare gearbox with a broken shift console. I though this was the perfect candidate to play with since it can't be used in its current form. I cut the remaining part of the bushing tab and file the casting flush. Then I prepared what would be the two new supporting tabs in which there would be oil impregnated bronze bushings. These tabs are made from a 1 1/4" x 3/8" aluminum flat bar. The 7/8" hole was machined in the right location (center 15mm from the console reference surface) to maintain the stock position of the shift rod. The bronze bushings (McMaster Carr 6338K426) were grooved to accept a snap ring (McMaster Carr 98585A115) to secure them to the tabs. Using a piece of 5/8" shaft, I do the first layout of the assembly. Then, with a file (aluminum is a beautiful material), I did the weld preparation of the various surfaces as per recommendations from my welder. Then my welder did his magic while taking his time and extra care to make sure the material didn't pull which would have resulted with bent tabs where bushings wouldn't have lined up and ruined the whole thing. Yes the preferred way of doing this would have been to weld first and machine after but that would have made the machining of the tabs more expensive due to an elaborate setup to hold the console. I would probably do it this way if I was doing it again, but since I had a good welder, he pulled it off nicely (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif) Then I used my trusted hack saw and files to smooth it out and bring it to a shape that could ressemble somewhat a stock casting form. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) Last, I reassembled the rest of the components with a fresh seal and the console assembly was ready to be installed on the gearbox. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) |
Montreal914 |
May 27 2018, 04:51 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Rear Shift Rod
Again, before cutting anything, I took a lot of reference dimensions as I wanted to ensure the bend in the rear rod was exactly in the same location to prevent any interference with the engine cross bar port. I first cut out the stock joint off the rod and established where the steering shaft end should be located to keep the geometry. Then I prepared the tube to properly align the steering shaft spline Final check of position, axis, and length of the spline. With the stub cut and held with only a couple of tacks, I began to assemble the rear part of the linkage onto the car. As we can see the position of the rear rod is the same as stock as the cone screw hole is lining up. That confirmed that the front part of the rod was good. It also allowed me to now establish how to cut the rear part of the rod to properly fit into the rear steering U-joint. Detail of the rear cut of the tube and the steering shaft spline. Ready for tack welding and final check on the car. After welding grinding and paint, the rear rod is ready to be installed on the car. And the finished result of the shifter linkage. What I want to do next is to improve the protection of the U-joint. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I was thinking about steering rack boot but I don't have any handy to check measurement. It would be great to find one that can snap onto the firewall like the original one. I was also thinking about printing a split part that could mount on the front of the rear shifter rod and connect to the stock boot attached to the firewall. Different ways to tackle this issue but I'm not too concerned for now, just happy with the result and shift feel. Now I need to work on the last part, the shifter itself... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Thank you for reading. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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