Hello My Name is Tony and I have DWD, caught a bad case in the electrical way Options

[TonyAKAVW]

So the car that I'm doing my Subaru conversion on just had a major setback tonight. My body wiring harness is no longer installed (for the most part). I pulled the wiring from the front trunk and also from the dash area. Its going to get stripped of wiring that I don't need, and I'm going to add wiring that I do need that isn't there.

For instance:

Deleting:

> fresh air blower wiring (I'm going to weld over the fresh air inlet and not use it.

> side marker wiring (not using)

> dome light (not putting in a backpad, going to do something else for light)

> heater controls (Ripped out stock heater controls, going to do a custom variable speed control for the dual blowers that I'm going to install someday)

> Door switches (I consider this excess, useless wiring)

> Seatbelt relay and Logic relay (again, useless to me)

Probably more too...


Adding:

> OBD II wiring for Subrau engine up to dash board

> harness wiring for Subaru ECU (going to be mounted between seats at the firewall, on the floor.)

> wiring for windshield washer pump

> 12 volt distribution for engine bay, front and rear trunks and under the dash (for stuff like tools, etc.)

> DC and AC wiring for power inverter (to power a laptop, etc.)


So like I said I caught a bad case of Dirk Wright's Disease. I've taken it upon myslef to redo the wiring instead of use what was probably a 99% functional body wiring harness. Luckily most of the wiring will stay the same, but the way I do the fuses and relays in the cabin will change considerably.

I know I'm not the only one here who does this sort of thing. We need a 12 step program.



-Tony

[TonyAKAVW]

QUOTE

I despise crimp connectors) the 914 wires into the leads from the Subie box, and make an adapter to bolt the box more or less in the stock position.

As much as I despise crimp connectors too, they are the best way to make an electrical connection from a wire to something non-moveable in a situation like a car or airplane where there is vibration. Soldering apparently (I don't know this first hand) work hardens the copper and causes it to become a little more brittle. Because of this, its arguably not a great idea to crimp and then solder. A good crimping job makes an excellent connection. A piece of shrink tubing can help a lot to keep out gunk.

Sounds like a good find with the fuse box. I'm sure others would be interested in your solution as well.


I've actually decided to have three or four fuse boxes in my car. One in the front trunk for all the headlights, turn signals, etc., another in the cabin for cabin specific stuff, another in the engine bay, and possibly another in the rear trunk.

The reason for this is that I can run thin gauge wire around the car, aside from a single large +12 supply line.

-Tony