Electrical charging system question, Alternator? |
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Electrical charging system question, Alternator? |
rjames |
Jun 10 2006, 04:11 PM
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#1
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 4,111 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I installed a brand new battery and a new voltage regulater last week in the car. My volt meter is showing 12.5 volts at the terminals. With the car running and the lights and fan on my volt meter fluctuates between 12.7 and 12.9, then slowly starts to dip, getting as low as 12.5 before I decided to shut the engine off because I could see that the battery was slowly draining.
Would it be logical that the alternator might need replacing? The alt. belt also seemed tight (not sure exactly how tight it should feel though.) I can check the electrical connections (have to find them first though.) The connections at the battery all look good though. It doesn't look like a fun job to replace the alternator, but I'm up for the challenge. Anything else I should look for before I go this route?? Thanks! PS: Forgot to add that the alternator light on the dash comes on when starting the car, but goes off right away once it's started and doesn't come back on at all when driving. |
rjames |
Jun 16 2006, 11:37 AM
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#2
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 4,111 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE It sounds like you have heat related resistance. Realy boards are well known for having poor contacts due to corrosion. You have to remove the tar, clean, then reseal. Hmm seems kind of odd that 2 of them would exhibit the exact same behavior, but I guess it wouldn't surprise me. The tar is in pretty good shape on both of the boards. I could see how in removing the tar I could possible damage the board. Would love to test with a known good board before I go that route. (Anyone? I'll gladly pay shipping). QUOTE On one car I had the stud on the engine wall for the battery ground was solid, but didn't conduct worth beans. A battery cable from the ground post to the fan shroud solved that problem. I cleaned and checked all grounds for resistance, and they're all good. (at least according to my DVM/DOM.) QUOTE Did you try the jumper test yet? --DD I haven't yet. I am kind of leary of trying this (afraid to fry something else like a battery). But I guess I will barring any warnings from other people. I'm still wondering if someone can tell me whether or not the alternator could just be 'working enough' to keep things at 12.whatever volts? |
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