Stainless precision shift coupler and rod, for /6 sideshift Options

[smdubovsky]

I've fabbed a new shift coupler/rod as discussed in the previous thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...f=2&t=58716

The POs side shift adapter and the new one:


The U-joint vs factory coupler w/ plastic bushings


The boot over the U-joint (full of grease)


The tranny end - turned and polished (the tapered hole is even correct).


Its 100% stainless (303/304). Im out of stainless pickling paste so the welds haven't been cleaned yet. (Dont pick on my weld of the nut to the coupler - it was late and the little bugger flops around while you're welding;)

It can report that is works great and completely solves the bind that I use to get in the 1st/R plane (it never was as bad in 4/5 but I dont know why).

In retrospect, I'd use the next larger U-joint and tap the hole vs welding a nut. Both welding the nut, and pulling the boot over it sucked;) I'd also look into using smaller diam or thinner tubing (its currently 7/8" because thats what my old one was.) I didn't want the prototype to have too much torsional twist (calculated 0.75deg @ 10lbft)

FWIW, It sounded like there was some interest. I could make a small production run. They are customizeable to an extent. I can control phasing (the orientation of the set screws - I pointed the one at the firewall out 45deg to make it easier to reach w/ a wrench) I could adjust the length (I understand the V8 guys need longer ones?) I could even lighten it as much as possible (for the racing types) by boring out the tranny end, using the smaller coupler w/ nut, and smaller/thinner tubing. $200 as long as a lot of extra work isn't involved (like lightening).

SMD

[Brando]

Make them all completely hollow, or "lightened" as you say. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) That's the best idea.

At $200/ea I would be very interested in one, and I'm sure many others around here would be as well. I had bought a set of shifter bushings (NOS) and somehow between moving twice I've lost them. Crap.

No more bad bushings for the life of the car sounds like a steal at $200!!!

[smdubovsky]

Make them all completely hollow, or "lightened" as you say. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) That's the best idea.

Time is $$ (and Im not a cheap whore no matter what my wife says;) If I bore out the tranny end it would be ~2.5oz. Not worth it unless racing and shaving EVERY ounce. Plus, boring/drilling deep holes in stainless is a PITA;)

Going to a smaller/thinner tube is 3-8oz savings. The larger coupler is +4oz, but I could bore most out of one end to probably get back to parity. If the tube is too thin, its more vulnerable to a roadside debris hit. Plus, its trickier to weld.

How much are you willing to spend for a few oz? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Im not sure if they will work on a /4. Don't they require a shaft w/ a little dogleg/bend in it? I'll try to crawl under some cars @ the ECC and get more familiar.

Gary, go read the post I linked too at the beginning. My problem (and everyone elses) is that the sideshift mechanism bends the rod side to side (not the direction the factory coupler wants to bend), putting the rod in a bind where it goes though the firewall. This happens in R/1 and 4/5. My R/1 just seemed worse but I don't know why (I guessing its due to a tranny or bushing location being slightly offset - its definately not a straight-shot). Anyway, the U-joint allows for this side-side motion and the up-down (like the factory coupler) in an all metal no-slop "lifetime" (theoretically) replacement. You're problem sorta sounds like a slider problem but Im not a 901 tranny expert.

SMD