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> ANYONE know if 96mm cyl. walls are as thick as the oem, dont want overheating issues
orange914
post Jun 23 2007, 10:54 PM
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just as the title asks... im concerned with heat issues and thin walls

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

kenny

thanks for the info, trying to figure this whole thing out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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Katmanken
post Jun 24 2007, 10:38 AM
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You haven't seen me if anybody asks...
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If you start with factory 94's (1.8's and 2.0 engines) and make the hole bigger to 96mm, then you will lose a little material and the walls will be thinner. Time and testing has shown that this is OK as far as strength and cooling. If you start with 1.7 cylinders (smaller bore than 94's) and bore them out, you have problems with the thin wall at the top of the cylinder (where it goes into the head) in that it is almost a knife edge (sealing issues) and prone to breakage problems.

The old NPR Japan bigbore cylinders for 1.8's and 2.0's are 96's and are good. As per the China cylinders? Who knows what their fabulous quality control is able to produce in consistant wall thickness, consistant bore diameters, voids, cylindricity, porosities, cylinder lengths, etc....

If you are feeling flush and never want to worry about cooling and quality, buy some fabulous L&N Nickies. They are aluminum cylinders with nickasil plating to control wear. The aluminum cylinders expand at the same rate as the heads and the pistons, unlike iron cylinders, aluminum pistons and aluminum heads. Add an aluminum coefficient of conduction much greater than the iron (2-3 times better), and Charles's fanatacism to proper machining and plating and you can see the advantages.

Ken
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orange914
post Jun 24 2007, 01:43 PM
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QUOTE(kwales @ Jun 24 2007, 09:38 AM) *

If you start with factory 94's (1.8's and 2.0 engines) and make the hole bigger to 96mm, then you will lose a little material and the walls will be thinner. Time and testing has shown that this is OK as far as strength and cooling. If you start with 1.7 cylinders (smaller bore than 94's) and bore them out, you have problems with the thin wall at the top of the cylinder (where it goes into the head) in that it is almost a knife edge (sealing issues) and prone to breakage problems.

The old NPR Japan bigbore cylinders for 1.8's and 2.0's are 96's and are good. As per the China cylinders? Who knows what their fabulous quality control is able to produce in consistant wall thickness, consistant bore diameters, voids, cylindricity, porosities, cylinder lengths, etc....

If you are feeling flush and never want to worry about cooling and quality, buy some fabulous L&N Nickies. They are aluminum cylinders with nickasil plating to control wear. The aluminum cylinders expand at the same rate as the heads and the pistons, unlike iron cylinders, aluminum pistons and aluminum heads. Add an aluminum coefficient of conduction much greater than the iron (2-3 times better), and Charles's fanatacism to proper machining and plating and you can see the advantages.

Ken

i plan on going with 1.8/2.0 heads not boring the 1.7 cylinders. the china cylinders scare me. maybe i'm wrong. what are these L&N nickie? big bucks?
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ConeDodger
post Jun 24 2007, 01:46 PM
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QUOTE(orange914 @ Jun 24 2007, 12:43 PM) *

QUOTE(kwales @ Jun 24 2007, 09:38 AM) *

If you start with factory 94's (1.8's and 2.0 engines) and make the hole bigger to 96mm, then you will lose a little material and the walls will be thinner. Time and testing has shown that this is OK as far as strength and cooling. If you start with 1.7 cylinders (smaller bore than 94's) and bore them out, you have problems with the thin wall at the top of the cylinder (where it goes into the head) in that it is almost a knife edge (sealing issues) and prone to breakage problems.

The old NPR Japan bigbore cylinders for 1.8's and 2.0's are 96's and are good. As per the China cylinders? Who knows what their fabulous quality control is able to produce in consistant wall thickness, consistant bore diameters, voids, cylindricity, porosities, cylinder lengths, etc....

If you are feeling flush and never want to worry about cooling and quality, buy some fabulous L&N Nickies. They are aluminum cylinders with nickasil plating to control wear. The aluminum cylinders expand at the same rate as the heads and the pistons, unlike iron cylinders, aluminum pistons and aluminum heads. Add an aluminum coefficient of conduction much greater than the iron (2-3 times better), and Charles's fanatacism to proper machining and plating and you can see the advantages.

Ken

i plan on going with 1.8/2.0 heads not boring the 1.7 cylinders. the china cylinders scare me. maybe i'm wrong. what are these L&N nickie? big bucks?


The LN cylinders are amazing. They are also a little more than $2K...
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orange914
post Jun 24 2007, 01:57 PM
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QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Jun 24 2007, 12:46 PM) *


The LN cylinders are amazing. They are also a little more than $2K...

OUCH!
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