OT- 924s Torque Tube removal Options

[iamchappy]

I have to replace the starter ring on my sons 924S ( ring was trashed due to wrong starter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) i was sold) I am almost there, but am unable to pull the torque tube out of the front bellhousing. i have been at it for two days now and am considering making it a parts car if i cant pull the damn thing out. it is suppose to come out without force. I have all the workshop manuals and advice on other forums but need some sort of trick to make it come out.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[ClayPerrine]

From experience....

the pilot bearing fails, then the end of the torque tube shaft gets chewed up. that makes it damn near impossible to get out without major force.

If that happened, you will need a new torque tube.


Good luck.

[jcd914]

I assume you have the trans out, shift lever unbolted, torque tube unbolted from bell housing, etc...

Does it come out part way?

Have you turned the torque tube so the "crash claws" will clear the rear torsion housing? About 90 degrees counter clockwise if I remember correctly (been a few years).

I have had one that the pilot bearing failed and chewed up the end of the input shaft and did not want to allow it to pull out. A big pry bar between the torque tube and bell housing, it was not pretty in the end. Had to replace the torque tube.

Jim

[iamchappy]

First off it is and Auto, second everything is removed, it comes out about an inch then stops, it looks to me like the collate that the clamp fits on and the torque tube drive shaft goes into maybe frozen on.

But i dont know it comes out part way then stops, I have spun that tube around more than Linda Blairs head in the exorcist and laying on my back have used my feet and legs and a wedge of wood hammered in between the torque tube and the bell housing. still a no go. I dont think it's the pilot bearing . I am running out of time as i have already spent 4 days on it, if i cant get it out i regrettably will make this a parts car.

[iamchappy]

I can see that the rubber dampner thingie on the flywheel thing is moving and pulling along with the shaft.

[iamchappy]

I think i've got it! the bolts that i thought just held the starter ring also hold the rubber damper.

I think i am giving birth the way it seems to want to slide out of there now. More Later!_

[jcd914]

I think i've got it! the bolts that i thought just held the starter ring also hold the rubber damper.

I think i am giving birth the way it seems to want to slide out of there now. More Later!_

Autos are loads of fun! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
From the info I can find and what I remember of the 1 I did:
The rubber damper is held onto the shaft in the torque tube with a circlip as well as the clamp holding it tight to the splines on the shaft. So the bell housing will have to come out as well.
There is a spacer that goes on after the rubber damper and before the circlip, it is used to set a depth adjustment for the rubber damper.

Have fun.

Jim

[scotty b]

Did you remove the allen socket pinch bolt from the coupler ?? The auto has a skinnier one up front. Operates like the one in the rear that couples the torque tube shaft to the input shaft on the trans. Let me go find my manual and I'll try to take a pic if you need it

[scotty b]

I've got a real nice manual setup I could sell you for " cheap " (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[r_towle]

Dont forget to remove the front bumper, radiator, motor and heater core so you can properly access the little C clip...

Might need to remove the center console, shifter , radio, dash board and steering wheel also..

Seriously.
While all you 924S experts are paying attention.
How do you replace the heater hoses that go to the heater core?
It appears that the clamp is inside the car??? Is that right?
Do I need to remove the heater core to get to these hose clamps?
Its getting cold and my looped back hose needs to be replaced...

Rich

[scotty b]

Dont forget to remove the front bumper, radiator, motor and heater core so you can properly access the little C clip...

Might need to remove the center console, shifter , radio, dash board and steering wheel also..

Seriously.
While all you 924S experts are paying attention.
How do you replace the heater hoses that go to the heater core?
It appears that the clamp is inside the car??? Is that right?
Do I need to remove the heater core to get to these hose clamps?
Its getting cold and my looped back hose needs to be replaced...

Rich

IIRC the glove box needs to be dropped, not a big deal. Then again I haven't f-ed with a 924/early 944 in several years now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[jcd914]

Dont forget to remove the front bumper, radiator, motor and heater core so you can properly access the little C clip...

Might need to remove the center console, shifter , radio, dash board and steering wheel also..

Seriously.
While all you 924S experts are paying attention.
How do you replace the heater hoses that go to the heater core?
It appears that the clamp is inside the car??? Is that right?
Do I need to remove the heater core to get to these hose clamps?
Its getting cold and my looped back hose needs to be replaced...

Rich

924S is a bit odd since it is the body/interior of a 924 with engine/engine controls of a 944.

On earlier 924/944's, it can be done from inside with the heater assemble in place.
I have used a 1/4" extension with a u-joint 6mm or 7mm socket to undo the clamps. I also have a couple of Hazet fleaxable nut drives made to the 6mm or 7mm hose clamps. It helps if you have a helper to push the new hose onto the nipple of the heater core while you are holding the clamp out of the way and getting it to slide over the hose.

Jim

[iamchappy]

All is out and ready to go back in. Without a doubt this is the most ridiculous car i have ever worked on. You are so right about having to remove everything I just about removed the rear suspension because the manual said so, but had to draw the line somewhere. I did remove the parking brake attachment to the lever the accelerator cable and two transmission lines tight against the firewall that i didn't have to do but did because the workshop manual said so.......i am surprised i didn't have to remove the headlights,turn signals, doors, rear hatch, windshield, seats(but would of made it easier to remove the parking brake cable if i did), I cant wait for this to be over, now i have to put everything back.
I hate the itchy heat shield stuff it really smarts when it gets in your eyes.
Scotty nice pic's.

[jasons]

Welcome to 924/944 ownership! You don't really own one of those cars until you do the Torque Tube shuffle. When I did my clutch, I think I used both hands and both feet to get that damn thing out.

[jcd914]

When I was making my living off them I learned to love em.
We charge 20 hrs labor to do a 944 Turbo clutch. If I had the car and parts the night before I could rack the car and lay out the parts before I went home. The next morning I could start the job about 7:30 and have it on the road about 6:00. I was tired and so dirty someone else would do a test drive but it was done!
The turbo's had the add challenge of the exhaust cross over pipe and waste-gate, additional heat shielding and very shallow heads on the bolts for the pressure plate. They are 12 point bolts like a CV bolt but only half the depth for the tool. I always replaced all 9 bolts since they got damaged at least, if I did not strip the heads out and have to drill them.
Back then it was all in a day's work. Now it would probably take me a day to get the torque tube out.

Good luck with it.
Jim