Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[Andyrew]

I was having starting/dying problems with mine at first. I tracked it down to a loose wire at the temp sensor plug. This is a known issue on these donor cars. Remove the rubber boots from your connectors and tug on the wires. Pull hard. If they (wires) come loose, there's your problem.

Tried that, replaced the plug with no change. My coolant temp comes up like normal as well. Its all taken apart now ready for inspection/cleaning and continuity testing.


This is a video explaining the wiring. Note its a bit difficult to follow as it was about 12:30am and I was a bit tired.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_oyBh3HwVU

[76-914]

Good to see that your "going back in", Andrew. That can be difficult sometimes. Looking forward to seeing you AND your 914 at some upcoming events. Also, looking forward to seeing some posts on your progress. :beer2

EDIT: Can't help but wonder if your ECU is locking out the Start circuit because it isn't receiving an OK from some system such as ABS sensor or Collision sensor system not functioning (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) .

[Andyrew]

House and Alina

[Mueller]

Alright, progress on the car!

She is too cute, everyone needs a spaghetti meal picture of their kid!


I think I know what the problem with your harness is:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOWquP1k6Oc

[Andyrew]

EDIT: Can't help but wonder if your ECU is locking out the Start circuit because it isn't receiving an OK from some system such as ABS sensor or Collision sensor system not functioning (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) .

Possibly, but it wasnt that way from the beginning, I had 6 months of starting 1st or 2nd crank rotation every damn time. This issue popped up as I was working on the cooling system and spilled a bunch of water near the crank position sensor, so I figured I had fried something there.


Its one of the reasons why my backup is just to go with a megasquirt system.

[oakdalecurtis]

Hey Andy, I don't see how you can work on your car at all when you're wrapped around Alina's fingers so tight! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Andyrew]

Hey Andy, I don't see how you can work on your car at all when you're wrapped around Alina's fingers so tight! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Thats why getting this far has taken so long! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

[76-914]

EDIT: Can't help but wonder if your ECU is locking out the Start circuit because it isn't receiving an OK from some system such as ABS sensor or Collision sensor system not functioning (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) .

Possibly, but it wasnt that way from the beginning, I had 6 months of starting 1st or 2nd crank rotation every damn time. This issue popped up as I was working on the cooling system and spilled a bunch of water near the crank position sensor, so I figured I had fried something there.


Its one of the reasons why my backup is just to go with a megasquirt system.

Ahh. We'll that's certainly logical. DNKT (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Andyrew]

Got some new tools and consumables. Not pictured is more heat shrink (3:1), and a new butane torch.

Last night I spent an hour stripping the wires of tape(thread remover works great if your slow to avoid crossed wires) and cutting a couple unused plugs out. Probably a pound of wire removed. I'll weigh it all when done. I've got to do this real slowly to not cut anything critical out.

[Mueller]

Got some new tools and consumables. Not pictured is a new 60watt soldering iron with orange case (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) , flux, solder, heat shrink terminal kit, and on the way is more heat shrink (3:1), and a new butane torch.

Last night I spent an hour stripping the wires of tape(thread remover works great if your slow to avoid crossed wires) and cutting a couple unused plugs out. Probably a pound of wire removed. I'll weigh it all when done. I've got to do this real slowly to not cut anything critical out.

More tools...nice!

Things I don't see in the picture....safety glasses, a carbon filter exhaust fan and a "third hand" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Andyrew]

Got some new tools and consumables. Not pictured is a new 60watt soldering iron with orange case (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) , flux, solder, heat shrink terminal kit, and on the way is more heat shrink (3:1), and a new butane torch.

Last night I spent an hour stripping the wires of tape(thread remover works great if your slow to avoid crossed wires) and cutting a couple unused plugs out. Probably a pound of wire removed. I'll weigh it all when done. I've got to do this real slowly to not cut anything critical out.

More tools...nice!

Things I don't see in the picture....safety glasses, a carbon filter exhaust fan and a "third hand" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Safety glasses are directly above the table.

That big ass fan isnt big enough for you? And nope, I dont have a "third hand" yet. Im thinking of putting a "T" track in the front of my table and putting a third hand in it. Havent gotten around to soldering yet, just thinning out the harness still (And probably for another couple weeks if I work on it every other night).

[dan10101]

Finnegan's garage is giving away a $2500 worth of tools for wiring etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNwjFWv3iNs
All you have to do is comment something that catches his eye or his heart.

What you have looks good. Good tools are the key...

[76-914]

Something I found invaluable was the dual range heat gun from HF ($14.99) https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dua...1112-62340.html and the helping hands tool ($4.99) https://www.harborfreight.com/Helping-Hands-60501.html
The dual range heat gun is perfect for the Heat Shrink. Find the perfect temp setting for whichever style your using then set it and forget it. IIRC, 730F was perfect for melting the silicone in the Marine grade. The helping hands is that 3rd hand but doesn't let the wires move as we do by hand. Rather than twist the wires together I like to slide the exposed ends upon each other then push any stray wires back in before soldering. This way I don't end up with a knot or bulge after soldering. It's not important but looks a lot neater and I don't need the next larger size of heat shrink for it to slide over the hump. Does that make sense? I know that you know this but many guy's don't. A perfect resin core solder joint will shine when set. If the soldered object is allowed to cool too quickly
(eg by blowing on it) or moves before it is set then the joint will appear cloudy indicating an improper solder joint. Before sure that you have a Cold Beer each evening afterwards so you can relax. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

Tried that, replaced the plug with no change. My coolant temp comes up like normal as well. Its all taken apart now ready for inspection/cleaning and continuity testing.


This is a video explaining the wiring. Note its a bit difficult to follow as it was about 12:30am and I was a bit tired.

My temp came up fine too. The water sensor is a dual element. One goes to the gauge and one to the ECU. It was the ECU wire that had an intermittent connection.

Check all the plugs for every system and try to pull out the wire from the metal terminal. Pull hard. Don't be afraid to yank on it. Like I said, failure at this type of connection point is a known point of failure and run problems. I've even seen some crimps where they crimp over the insulation. This works for a while and then wiggles out of contact.

[Mike Bellis]

What does you VCDS say the problem is? When was the last time you did a throttle body calibration?

[Andyrew]

What does you VCDS say the problem is? When was the last time you did a throttle body calibration?

I can no longer connect to the obd2. This happened about 3 months after the issue. Vcds showed bad crank position sensor, then it stopped showing an issue, then I could no longer connect to it. Another reason why I'm doing the wiring cleanup.

[Andyrew]

Tried that, replaced the plug with no change. My coolant temp comes up like normal as well. Its all taken apart now ready for inspection/cleaning and continuity testing.


This is a video explaining the wiring. Note its a bit difficult to follow as it was about 12:30am and I was a bit tired.

My temp came up fine too. The water sensor is a dual element. One goes to the gauge and one to the ECU. It was the ECU wire that had an intermittent connection.

Check all the plugs for every system and try to pull out the wire from the metal terminal. Pull hard. Don't be afraid to yank on it. Like I said, failure at this type of connection point is a known point of failure and run problems. I've even seen some crimps where they crimp over the insulation. This works for a while and then wiggles out of contact.

I changed the sensor 3 times then changed the wiring twice. Another item I'll be checking while doing the wiring again. All the junkyard connectors we're junk. I haven't found a source for the connector new or else I would do that.

[Andyrew]

Progress from tonight. More of the easy slow stuff. Removed about 10 connectors I don't need. Probably about 15 left to cut out throughout the harness, these were all in two simple clumps.

I am still leaving some wires to trim in case I find I make a mistake and need to solder one back. I'll power up the system and test it before I trim everything back and finish the looms.

[Andyrew]

Cleared out some more wiring but as I was doing the light wiring I got worried that I was clearing out too much... So I removed the relay holder, the turn signal/wiper/headlight stalks and the ignition switch and my battery and set it all up on the bench. I was able to figure out the headlights but I didn't get the turn signals to work with a test light. So I'm going to finish up the wiring the best that I can tell for the lights and add some connectors at appropriate lengths and then I will put it in the car. I suspect that it needs more bulbs/resistance to work. The hazard switch works great and it's what holds the turn signal relay.

I spent a bit of time writing out all the wiring per the diagrams I have so I can confirm I did wire it up appropriately the first time. I have been having issues with one of the headlight fuses constantly going out so I suspect I have it on the wrong wire/ fuze/ something so that's one of my big things I'm working on solving with this wiring.

The loom is substantially thinner at this point, and I have a lot of wires I still can remove/trim.

Note I still have the engine harness to go through. I just decided to start with this as I'm going to be spending a considerable amount of time measuring and lengthening/shortening the wires for the engine harness.

[Andyrew]

I did someore trimming a couple nights ago, no pics. I went over the lights and turn signal situation and I have a bit more to do but I think I have it figured out. I am ready to start trimming the engine harness and in doing so I'll be able to trim the chassis harness a bit more as well. After all the triming I'll size everything to proper lengths and move from there.


Monday night I was modifying some steel frames for work (I rarely do this kind of stuff in my position, but I needed it done faster than my shop was going to be able to do it) and I got a piece of metal in my eye. I didn't notice it till yesterday after work and thus made an emergency trip to my optometrist, who luckily is a family friend and I can typically pull strings when needed like this. Got it out and after a hard night last night I am feeling better. Still blurry but I'm dialated pretty good and he took a bit of material out as there was a little rust.
However it's healing well (follow-up appointment) so no worries there.

Back on topic I decided to replace my failing welding helmet, and I took the advice of you guys and got a nice set of helping hands.
I should have a little bit more progress this weekend. I should be testing the system sometime in the next month and then wrapping it for good.