'73 Resto & Suby 6 Conversion, or a primer on "How to convert your 914 to a Subaru 3.0" Options

[partwerks]

I'm in manufacturing. You'll have to check with Chris in supply. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I honestly don't know but we'll get that info to you soon. Here is a shot of one installed but I'm getting ahead of myself.

I see that the corner needs to be trimmed for clearance to the upper left of the clutch MC.

I'm guessing that you are using the stock clutch pedal to operate the hydraulic clutch, and that it bolts on through the firewall? If so, I would think I would use between 1/8", and 3/16" material?

[partwerks]

Planning on having my Nieces's hubby do the work, since he was the top tech at the chevy garage, till Delmar was too cheap to give him a raise, and opened up his own shop then. Reasonable labor, and some freebies......

I was just trying to do some of the leg work for him, and make some of the stuff that I can. Almost done with the water logs. Can do this MC bracket, but not sure on the motor mount, w/o any measurements. Can't tell just by looking at a picture.

[Chris H.]

It looks like this:

OEM Honda Clutch MC

1993ish to 2000 Civic. The OEM is Nissin/Adler (NOT Nissan!), but you can get a bunch of aftermarket ones for ~$25 or so, or a used one for about $25. Just avoid the Omni aftermarket brand.

There are a few other bits you need. I'll post the full list once I get mine installed.

[76-914]

I'm in manufacturing. You'll have to check with Chris in supply. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I honestly don't know but we'll get that info to you soon. Here is a shot of one installed but I'm getting ahead of myself.

I see that the corner needs to be trimmed for clearance to the upper left of the clutch MC.

I'm guessing that you are using the stock clutch pedal to operate the hydraulic clutch, and that it bolts on through the firewall? If so, I would think I would use between 1/8", and 3/16" material?

Yes on all. Replace the pedal bolts with longer ones also.

Planning on having my Nieces's hubby do the work, since he was the top tech at the chevy garage, till Delmar was too cheap to give him a raise, and opened up his own shop then. Reasonable labor, and some freebies......

I was just trying to do some of the leg work for him, and make some of the stuff that I can. Almost done with the water logs. Can do this MC bracket, but not sure on the motor mount, w/o any measurements. Can't tell just by looking at a picture.

Well actually you can. You need to go from the front motor mount bolt holes to the rear transmission support bolts. Your bends will be what you make them. I used 4130 Chromoly and bent mine as far as my cheap ass bender would allow, about 37'. It's somewhere in this thread.

Thx for posting that Chris.

[partwerks]

At Rockauto, I can get a Dorman, MC, and Slave for about $29.00. I noticed the Master is 5/8" bore, and the slave is 3/4" bore. Is that typically how it should be?

How do I know if this slave will bolt up to a Boxster trans, or are they all pretty much the same?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=3299353

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=3299353

[partwerks]

I'm in manufacturing. You'll have to check with Chris in supply. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I honestly don't know but we'll get that info to you soon. Here is a shot of one installed but I'm getting ahead of myself.

I see that the corner needs to be trimmed for clearance to the upper left of the clutch MC.

I'm guessing that you are using the stock clutch pedal to operate the hydraulic clutch, and that it bolts on through the firewall? If so, I would think I would use between 1/8", and 3/16" material?

Yes on all. Replace the pedal bolts with longer ones also.

Planning on having my Nieces's hubby do the work, since he was the top tech at the chevy garage, till Delmar was too cheap to give him a raise, and opened up his own shop then. Reasonable labor, and some freebies......

I was just trying to do some of the leg work for him, and make some of the stuff that I can. Almost done with the water logs. Can do this MC bracket, but not sure on the motor mount, w/o any measurements. Can't tell just by looking at a picture.

Well actually you can. You need to go from the front motor mount bolt holes to the rear transmission support bolts. Your bends will be what you make them. I used 4130 Chromoly and bent mine as far as my cheap as bender would allow, about 37'. It's somewhere in this thread.

Thx for posting that Chris.

Longer bolts to go through the plate that positions the two cylinders together?

It appears that I may be able to utilize part/most, of the old Subie cradle in addition to the motor mount for the LS to help stiffen things up a bit. I do have the long kit installed in the cab.

On the old 3.6 conversion, I had the frame rails that plug welded in on the longs, and tied into the rear trailing arms.

[Chris H.]

At Rockauto, I can get a Dorman, MC, and Slave for about $29.00. I noticed the Master is 5/8" bore, and the slave is 3/4" bore. Is that typically how it should be?

How do I know if this slave will bolt up to a Boxster trans, or are they all pretty much the same?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=3299353

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=3299353

You'll need to use the slave cylinder from the Boxster trans. It looks totally different. We are using Subaru slave cylinders with the Honda master and it works fine (with Subie transes obviously). Not sure what the "throw" requirements are for the Boxster trans but I think Bob is installing a Boxster 6 speed in his LS1 car. Maybe he can tell you what MC he is using. That would be the only thing to be sure of before you commit to the Honda MC. Just need to be sure you can get clutch fully depressed.

[ruby914]

At Rockauto, I can get a Dorman, MC, and Slave for about $29.00. I noticed the Master is 5/8" bore, and the slave is 3/4" bore. Is that typically how it should be?

How do I know if this slave will bolt up to a Boxster trans, or are they all pretty much the same?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=3299353

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=3299353

The suby slave I have, has a 13/16 (.812) stamped on it. I recall seeing something like 11/16 for the suby MC. Here it is: http://www.licmotorsports.com/sites/defaul...on%2056-372.pdf see: page 2
That is why I chose the .700 Tilton over the 3/4, I like easy.
Now, you guys have me thinking, it needs more than .050 and I will have a hard clutch?

Kent, If I can get my axles / CVs worked out and tranies swapped we could hook up and do some suby swapping.

[Mike Bellis]

I'm running a 5/8" master on my Boxster tranny. The slave for the Boxster and the VW Passat (1997-2001) is the same. The Passat unit is a fraction of the price. The Passat unit will fit both Boxster/Cayman 5 & 6 speed trannies up to 2008 for sure. Not sure about newer.

[Chris H.]

Oh crud that's right Mike, how could I forget you have a Boxster trans? So Mike is running a 5/8 master, same as the Honda, and a stock VW/Audi/Porsche slave.

Mike Birdwell - The Subie clutch master is 5/8 in the cases that I saw in my limited research of 200-2006 transmissions. For a while we were getting direction that the master and slave cylinders had to match but they do not for Subaru. The 11/16 was probably out there because Kent's and my slave cylinders are 11/16. Turns out that has no bearing. Seems like 5/8 is the ticket to smooth, easy to push as long as you have the "throw"to fully engage the clutch.

[76-914]

[/quote]

Longer bolts to go through the plate that positions the two cylinders together?

There are two bolts that are spot welded to the pedal assm that the brake MC bolts to. R&R those two w/ bolts 8-10mm longer. Hint: Use an old MC to reposition the new bolts.


Kent, If I can get my axles / CVs worked out and tranies swapped we could hook up and do some suby swapping.
[/quote]
I was hoping we could at least get our own National Holiday after that ordeal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[partwerks]

Will the clutch slave cylinder (Dorman) from Rockauto work, or is the bolt pattern the wrong way to work on the Boxster trans? Ooops, probably not.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=3299353

I guess the plan is to get a Honda Civic CMC, and VW CSC, since the VW CSC is alreay being used, it should have enough throw?

To make the large hole for the new resident, the CMC, are they using a hole saw from the cab side or underneath the car to cut it out?
Once I get the correct measurements for the plate, then I can go forward on that part.

If a person gets the Honda CMC, where do they acquire the reservoir from, or can that be gotten at a local auto parts store?

[Chris H.]

The "throw" is related to the MC. The smaller the MC the longer the throw to move the same volume of fluid, so the issue is whether or not the 914 stock clutch pedal has enough travel to push the 5/8 master far enough to fully engage the clutch. Sounds like others who know more than me about your setup are using 5/8 MC so theoretically you should be good.

You really have to use a VW/Audi/Porsche (same part it sounds like) on your trans. Using aftermarket or adapting one would be a huge pain.

You can use an aftermarket reservoir. I will get the stock hose dimension today. I bought a used Honda one on e-bay. $18.

Hi Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) I got all my coolant stuff corrected per Bob's instructions. Turning the key soon! No worries, still have brakes, shifter, etc to do.

[partwerks]

Given those years, a bit of overlap, it is the 2nd, or most expensive style one that I need for the trans, correct?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Clutch-Slave-C...ebf&vxp=mtr


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Clutch-Slave-C...f38&vxp=mtr

This one?

[76-914]

I threw in the rear carpet and liner after trimming to fit around some items. It will look much better with new carpet but that will come later. I will need all new rubber seals, carpet, paint, tires n wheels to get up to speed but this is good for now.













The best part was this; the top fits in it's OG location. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[76-914]

Might as well start posting some pic's on modifying the plate. Keep the bolts/nuts you used to mount the Wilwood MC to the plate. They are the same length/diameter. I cut 2 small tabs and beveled the edges before welding. You will need to grind it flat afterwards so the bevel is structural. Clamps them in place then move around with your spot welds, remove the clamps and weld. Then grind it smooth as shown.
**** More when the MC arrives.......







This is a good time to point out what I believe is a poor design with the Wilwood reservoir. The inner piece which holds the "single o-ring" isn't strong enough to withstand the forces placed upon it by the clamp. As it gives the piece takes on a tapered shape pushing the reservoir up and away from the base. Notice the 6mm gap? As it pushes up, the o-ring ends up below the hose clamp as you can see in the 2nd pic below.

[Chris H.]

I think I recognize that plate! Dang that looks nice.

Yeah totally agree on the reservoir o-ring. It's the same on the MC itself. And if you use a pressure bleeder you won't like what happens AT ALL.

Trunk is looking good Kent! I think I will use your half-canister to cover my starter and clutch MC holes in the trunk. Bunch of seal sealer and paint and it'll be barely noticeable.

[partwerks]

This is a good time to point out what I believe is a poor design with the Wilwood reservoir. The inner piece which holds the "single o-ring" isn't strong enough to withstand the forces placed upon it by the clamp. As it gives the piece takes on a tapered shape pushing the reservoir up and away from the base. Notice the 6mm gap? As it pushes up, the o-ring ends up below the hose clamp as you can see in the 2nd pic below.

I don't know if it would be a good idea or not, but could a person use some of that purple gunk that plumbers put on pvc to glue it together, to seal it??

[BIGKAT_83]

I've worked with six of the Wilwood reservoirs and have had no problems at all. You may be a little too tight with the clamp. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

[76-914]

I think I recognize that plate! Dang that looks nice.

Yeah totally agree on the reservoir o-ring. It's the same on the MC itself. And if you use a pressure bleeder you won't like what happens AT ALL.

Trunk is looking good Kent! I think I will use your half-canister to cover my starter and clutch MC holes in the trunk. Bunch of seal sealer and paint and it'll be barely noticeable.

I found the 2nd cover I made ( the black square one) allows for easy future repairs that the smaller one(s) did not.

This is a good time to point out what I believe is a poor design with the Wilwood reservoir. The inner piece which holds the "single o-ring" isn't strong enough to withstand the forces placed upon it by the clamp. As it gives the piece takes on a tapered shape pushing the reservoir up and away from the base. Notice the 6mm gap? As it pushes up, the o-ring ends up below the hose clamp as you can see in the 2nd pic below.

I don't know if it would be a good idea or not, but could a person use some of that purple gunk that plumbers put on pvc to glue it together, to seal it??

No. That purple stuff is an acetone based primer intended for vinyl plastics and is not a glue. Dirko might possibly work but I'd need to read up on it, first.

I've worked with six of the Wilwood reservoirs and have had no problems at all. You may be a little too tight with the clamp. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

The GA models are known to be of a better quality. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Honestly Bob the unit leaked before the tightening began. True the reservoir rose as it was tightened but I could not find a "happy medium" where it would not leak. Not crazy about that single o-ring design either.