Loctite 518 and oil pump, ...did I screw up bad? Options

[yeahmag]

Shit... DT50 is $10.99 a quart! It's like $140 an oil change! I read something about "additive clash" going from Brad Penn to DT50 too, so I've written the company to check it out.

[r_towle]

Do you recall how tall the gears are in your pump?

Rich

[yeahmag]

I think it's a 21/pressure, 26/scavenge

[r_towle]

you can get up to 30mm to fit in there.

Keep in mind, higher oil pressure will mean higher oil temps.
For your motor, at your elevation, doing what you do with the car...you need to find the sweet spot....
Not to low on pressure, yet not so high that your temps are hard to regulate.

Take a look at the Melling pumps for the type4.
I believe they have 30mm gears.

rich

[yeahmag]

Thanks Rich, but I really need a dry sump pump with the G's this car is making. I lost the last set of rod bearings with a 27mm pump, tuna can, and a 1/2 quart over. I might yank the pump cover if it starts to scare me.

I'll let everyone know what I hear from Joe Gibbs/Driven about the DT50 and Brad Penn perceived compatibility issue.

[r_towle]

There must be a 30 mm dry sump pump...I know I had three huge ones on that race car, still have stow left, bot shadeck.

The pumps I have are not designed for the stock cooling, so that is a problem.

[yeahmag]

Yeah... BugPack is affordable, but won't work with stock cooling. Thorsten Pieper will fit but is $400 plus shipping from Germany (assuming he is still making them). And the AutoCraft is $600 and needs different plumbing (the BugPack may need that too).

[r_towle]

How close to the shroud is your existing pump?
We are talking about 5 mm at most difference...

Maybe take a look at the CB performance dry sump covers with the 30mm melting.

Hmm, let me see what I have left, not sure it will fit but it may give up an idea or two.

[r_towle]

I have a treuhaft pump, looks like it's about 2 inches out of the case.
The motor had a 911 cooling shroud, so space was not as much of an issue.

You could measure the clearance you have now from the cover to the shroud.
Clay on the lid, bolt the shroud back down.
Remove and measure the clay.

The shroud could be shimmed out about 5mm and still work as designed.
You could make a shim plate of 5mm to go between the cover and the pump body
Then get taller gears.

I just touched on that this process was done, so it can work easy enough.

Rich

[Jake Raby]

I have a Weltmeister high pressure setup on the secondary relief still.

That may be part of your issue. Pressure relief springs and even the lengths of the valves are "graded" in some T4 engines. Some cases have a "1" or a "2" embossed on the case near the primary pressure relief. These numbers have a meaning.

I use 100% stock valves and springs in all areas of the engines. The secondary pressure relief only governs the oil going to the lifters and valve train, its entirely possible to run this pressure too high and create issues by sending too much oil there, and not enough somewhere else.

This is a slippery slope. Its entirely possible to try so hard to keep from creating an issue, that you create a problem. I call it paralysis from analysis.

[yeahmag]

Thanks for the feedback Jake. Interesting that I thought it was an accepted practice by most big builders to completely disable the secondary. It's will cost me about a $0.50 crush washer for me to try putting the stock secondary back in. Can't imagine it would help at idle, but I may benefit elsewhere.

[yeahmag]

Some of you know I'm starting to work with a regulated voltage supply to test this theory (which I hope to install soon). This just came to me from VDO:

=======

Aaron,
The gauges are rated for 16 volts and yes, a fluctuation in voltage will affect the accuracy of the gauge.
They are designed to receive a constant voltage of around 14 volts. A fluctuation of 12 to 14 would throw off the reading by about 5 to 10 psi.

Best regards,
Technical Support Team
Business Unit CVAM
Continental
Division Interior
6755 Snowdrift Road
Allentown, PA 18106
USA

[stugray]

Another possibility with the VDO being inaccurate is poor/shifting grounds.

You can isolate the VDO from the car chassis and then run a dedicated ground from the sensor to the gauge.
A regulated power supply is very simple.
You can actually install one component like a LM7812 that will output 12.0V as long as the input is ~12.8 or higher.
I put a mechanical oil pressure gauge in with the VDO and they give the same answer, but I dont have a lot of time on the system.

I would also like to see a detailed diagram of your oil setup. I know it was discussed over in the paddock, but I never did get a good diagram. Although I did start working on some new oil diagrams that you commented on and even pulled out a spare case so I can inspect it.

I am still installing the front dual oil coolers. For right now I will just use a filter sandwich plate, but want to do a sump upgrade after that.

[yeahmag]

This widget will take as low as 8V and regulate it up to a whopping 46V if necessary. I've only tested it with a few different voltages and it stayed right were a put it. I'm outputting 14V exactly via my Fluke.

It's pretty darn inexpensive too!

[yeahmag]

I should mention all of the voltages I tested with were *below* 13V.