Toe Adjustment, Anyone make this other than Patrick Motorsports? Options

[colingreene]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/patrickms.s3.amazonaws.com-16526-1477414412.1.jpg)

I thought some other shop made this.
I know tangerine does a version of it.

[914forme]

Pretty simple to make your own.

Rod Ends

Jamb Nuts

Rod (you can get these premade)

A nut plate into the log (16ga steel, with nut welded on the back side, and then hole of appropriate size drilled into log) You can make it much fancier if wanted nobody will ever know.

A nut welded on the backside of the outer suspension pivot.

You can make it as fancy as you want. Does a great job on setting toe, beyond that I suppose it might add some re-enforcment.

[Spoke]

Tangerine Racing has something like this although it is part of the trailing arm bracket.

Tanerine Racing

[0396]

Brant, knows a shop AJ Racing in Colorado Springs that makes these.

[Chris914n6]

I was going to make some for myself. About $50 in parts including thread taps.

Doesn't have to be burly as it just sets or preserves toe when the adjustment bolts are loose.

[colingreene]

I might just wind up making them myself.
I was sort of hoping that someone made a kit that was a reasonable price.
The patrick kit seems like a bunch of money for what it is.
That said I still do not like, nor do i want the tangerine part.

[914forme]

No reason to purchase a set of taps for this project. If your getting into custom work then yes by all means, I have a set. For this just measure the length you want and use a set of these. Aluminum Swedged Rods 3/8-24

[colingreene]

Nice thanks.

[Larmo63]

Dang, those make fabricating these pretty easy.

[brant]

There is a bit more on involved with mounting these than the rod.
Ajrs has been using these for nearly 20 years
They really help maintain rear alignment through reinforcement

You would be surprised how much alignment settings change from track use. Even one weekend.

A lot f flex takes place at the rear suspension with race rubber

[Ed_914]

If you want something in stainless , you could fabricate maybe something out of this
http://www.force4.co.uk/department/chandle...-adjusters.html

[restore2seater]

Hoping not to take this post into a big debate but after looking at the setup from PMS I have a couple questions.

Adjustable Tow Link Set

On their site they say that the adjustable tow link is using "fully adjustable spherical uniball bearings". I was under the impression that uniball bearings were made up of only a ball and socket. The ones shown look like they have a shank attached to the bearing. Looks more like a heim joint. From what I've read uniball is the better choice because its stronger. So is the PMS a heim joint or uniball bearing? Or do they make uniball bearings with shanks?

From what I've been told, using a heim joint for street use is not a good idea. Street use will wear the joint out quickly because of dirt, sand, rain, salt.... getting into the joint. Also they squeak a lot since most are not serviceable. PMS is stating its for street or racing. If it is going to be used for racing purpose then none of this matters. After a season or two of racing I would guess they would get replaced or rebuilt if possible. If its for street use then is any of this a concern or is this incorrect about what I've read and been told?

[Ed_914]

you could use something like this to prevent dirt

http://www.fkrodends.com/new_products.html

[914forme]

Hoping not to take this post into a big debate but after looking at the setup from PMS I have a couple questions.

Adjustable Tow Link Set

On their site they say that the adjustable tow link is using "fully adjustable spherical uniball bearings". I was under the impression that uniball bearings were made up of only a ball and socket. The ones shown look like they have a shank attached to the bearing. Looks more like a heim joint. From what I've read uniball is the better choice because its stronger. So is the PMS a heim joint or uniball bearing? Or do they make uniball bearings with shanks?

From what I've been told, using a heim joint for street use is not a good idea. Street use will wear the joint out quickly because of dirt, sand, rain, salt.... getting into the joint. Also they squeak a lot since most are not serviceable. PMS is stating its for street or racing. If it is going to be used for racing purpose then none of this matters. After a season or two of racing I would guess they would get replaced or rebuilt if possible. If its for street use then is any of this a concern or is this incorrect about what I've read and been told?

It is on a none moving part essentially. The wear would be a non issue. Ass they really don't move around that much. You can cover them if you wish. Lightly oil them with a "3 in 1" oil. I have run sever rod ends on my 914 for 10 years or so, never had an issue with wearing out. But then, It rarely see rain, and well it is a dirty car. I am not one of them guys that washes and waxes the car every week. So it gets a wash before being put to bed in the winter. And the underside, never gets washed or waxed, or even wiped.

BTW all joints wear (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) in the case of my body, at a much higher rate than I would like. In the case of my 914, it has been fine and young for a long time. The only reason you don't notice wear on other joints is because of the protective boots placed over things like tie rod ends. They would be much more prone to wear if they did not have the boots. Heavy grease loves to hold dirt, which would accelerate the joint wear.

[restore2seater]

OK, I get that it is essentially a non moving part. Once you get the toe set correctly its basically locked in place with three bolts. So what's the benefit of using uniball bearings? They add to the expense of the kit. Using something like what Chris Foley came up with seems to be an easy solution without the cost and labor of having to do any welding. Is what PMS is selling more towards the racing side of an application? What am I not seeing?

[colingreene]

because the rod ends allow you to pull as well as push unlike the tangerine kit.
sometimes you need to add or reduce toe. Also it means that you do not have a metal on metal screw action that could damage the already somewhat delicate chassis mounting points.
This also allows you to re-enforce the pick up point with the advantage of a external rod.