Paint Supplier?, Looking for correct single stage paint Options

[rstover]

I am ready for new paint on the Bumblebee that I have been working on. The paint shop that I am working with is trying to get the sunflower yellow that is correct. He says that the formulas change over time and that by just ordering off of the paint code may or may not be correct. The yellow is L13K and the black is L 041. I don't know what yellow is on the car now, but I am pretty sure it is not correct. Jeff believes that a yellow negative script was made by Porsche at some time. I have the folder with the intuctions for the one on the car now. I believe that the yellow on my car was painted to match that script. We have no sample to match the L13K to.

I would really appreciate some expert advise on a supplier that has the best single stage that is period corredt for L041 and L13K.

[Rav914]

I've bought paint a couple of times and had the supplier go off the paint code only. Single stage. The one time I had a panel repainted and the shop didn't use the paint code, for your reason above, it didn't match. Find a supplier that'll mix paint according to the paint code.

Oh, another example. I had a '66 911 re-painted. I was leaving the door jambs alone as they were fine. He wanted to mix paint to match. I insisted on using the color code. He balked. I said I would pull the car. So he gave in and guess what? Using paint mixed per the code was a spot on match.

You're the guy with the money, you call the shots.

BTW, nice car!

[914_teener]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

With a ,bee I would make sure.

What I think he is saying is a disclaimer for it not matching.

Good luck.

[burton73]

If you are painting the full car or just the yellow, you should be taking off the bumpers. Under the tits on the bumper the color will not be faded at all and they can match the paint there. You can approve the color. Even when they go by codes it can be wrong.

I have had factory Glassco on my old 1979 blue and it was just a bit off.

It looks great in the picture.

Bob B

[worn]

I am going to repaint the Bumblebee that I have been working on. I am pretty sure that the yellow that is on the car now is not Sunflower Yellow. Jeff indicated to me that porsche made some negative stripes after 74 and I believe the yellow on the car was matched to that stripe. The paint shop that I am working with indicated that the formulas change over time and that by just ordering the L13K might not guantee that the yellow is period correct.

I would really appreciate advice on the best source of single stage paint L13K and L041. I have no samples of the Sunflower color to compare to.

Well, I have had good luck with single stage PPG. As for color match the only way to find out is to paint Jeff Bowlsbee and see if he looks right against the color chip. Not all over of course: I saw Goldfinger in the movie theaters when I was a kid.

[rstover]

I think I might be asking the question wrong. Of the following, which would you choose?

PPG

Axalta

BASF

Sikkens

Glasurit

[worn]

I think I might be asking the question wrong. Of the following, which would you choose?

PPG

Axalta

BASF

Sikkens

Glasurit

I have had good luck with PPG. I was able to have them run down Porsche color codes that seem to match the untouched spots under the dash of two cars as well. However, I am strictly amateur class in painting.

[rstover]

Thanks for the reply. With so much consolidation of paint companies and not a lot of painters doing single stage I was trying to get as much input as possible. I think he (the painter) is leaning to PPG, but can and wants to get the best option at this point.

[Mikey914]

We actually matched the yellow from a unused spare on a local bumblebee. I know its dead on. We have been providing in rattle can, but i could get you however much you need.
Mark

[McMark]

I'd probably choose Glasurit or PPG, but there's far more to paint than brand. The best paint in the world can be f-d up by improper prep or application. I'm not just talking about dust or runs or coverage. I'm talking about mixing correctly, adjusting for humidity and temperature. And each system has different quirks. So handing the best paint shop in the world a can of something that they've never used and you might not get the level of quality you were expecting. If you're gonna make brand your top selection criteria, you should follow that up with finding someone, anywhere, who knows that brand and does the level of work you want.

[mepstein]

I'd probably choose Glasurit or PPG, but there's far more to paint than brand. The best paint in the world can be f-d up by improper prep or application. I'm not just talking about dust or runs or coverage. I'm talking about mixing correctly, adjusting for humidity and temperature. And each system has different quirks. So handing the best paint shop in the world a can of something that they've never used and you might not get the level of quality you were expecting. If you're gonna make brand your top selection criteria, you should follow that up with finding someone, anywhere, who knows that brand and does the level of work you want.

Exactly. 95% prep, 4% painter, 1% paint.

[rick 918-S]

I'd probably choose Glasurit or PPG, but there's far more to paint than brand. The best paint in the world can be f-d up by improper prep or application. I'm not just talking about dust or runs or coverage. I'm talking about mixing correctly, adjusting for humidity and temperature. And each system has different quirks. So handing the best paint shop in the world a can of something that they've never used and you might not get the level of quality you were expecting. If you're gonna make brand your top selection criteria, you should follow that up with finding someone, anywhere, who knows that brand and does the level of work you want.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I use DuPont now Axalta. I would not begin to try to use another paint line I am not used to spraying. Believe it or not there is a noticeable difference in application and spray technic different in paint brands.

All formulas will need to be tinted these days if you want an exact match. Here's a link to a thread where I was getting ready to paint 7 of 9. Check post # 137.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...4128&st=120

[Tom_T]

I think I might be asking the question wrong. Of the following, which would you choose?

PPG

Axalta

BASF

Sikkens

Glasurit

I would add Dupont to your list of good top quality paints above, but I don't know anything about Axalta & BASF, but the others on your list are all top tier paints.

Try going to an automotive paint supplier store that supplies the paints in 1 or more of those brands, & ask them about the paint mix for classic import cars & where to find the code. Color matching behind the "tits" &/or another "sheltered" & unfaded area is a good idea if they have the proper color matching equipment/"gun"

If you google for PPG Paint Codes. there is a site where you pick the make, year, then color code - then it gives you the old school paint mix formula which you can print-out, but IIRC their "library" was incomplete on the Porsche side, so you may have to use their VW library section - & those are the VW color code numbers anyway.

Also, Jeff Bowlsby probably has paint codes & sources for Bumblebees, so try a PM or email directly to him.

Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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[Costa05]

I'd probably choose Glasurit or PPG, but there's far more to paint than brand. The best paint in the world can be f-d up by improper prep or application. I'm not just talking about dust or runs or coverage. I'm talking about mixing correctly, adjusting for humidity and temperature. And each system has different quirks. So handing the best paint shop in the world a can of something that they've never used and you might not get the level of quality you were expecting. If you're gonna make brand your top selection criteria, you should follow that up with finding someone, anywhere, who knows that brand and does the level of work you want.

Exactly. 95% prep, 4% painter, 1% paint.

I would probably give a little more credit to the painters skill than 4% in my opinion. Paint runs, orange peel, consistency, and lousy equip come to mind.

[PanelBilly]

I'd make sure it matched the color on the stripes. Better to have that match than to have the "correct" paint and it clash with you choice of decal. Just my 2cents

[rstover]

I want to thank all who responded my question about paint. I forwarded these to the painter and he quickly reponded with his recomendation. He must have mistaken me for someone who knew something about painting Porsche and was trying do as I wished. When I first talked to him he mentioned he used a lot of Axalta which I didn"t reconize as being Dupont. Today he recomended using Axalta. He is going to use the formula for the Black (L041) and getting the yellow(L13K) and tinting it to match the negative stripe from 914 rubber. At first he said it would be about 2 months before starting, but he is going to go ahead and paint the cowl so that I can put in the new dash, dash pad and windshield.

All the comments help in deciding. I didn't know that there were grades of paint within the brand. He gave me the retail price for the L041 top of line and quickly mentioned he could get the whoesale price. He was propably afraid that he was going to see an old man faint. The L041 is $199 quart and activater about $ 269. The yellow is only like $ 69 per quart. I am really excided about getting nice paint on the car and will have Paint questions about painting in the jams with stickers and ID plate.

I don't think he painted the whole car, but I know he did the shodows. I enjoyed it and thought some others might.

[McMark]

Are you talking about painting the part of the car, then installing some nice new parts and then painting the rest of the car?

If so, DON'T! Get everything painted at once, and don't start putting nice stuff in until the sanding/dust/colorsanding/etc is all complete. That stuff gets everywhere.

[mepstein]

I'd probably choose Glasurit or PPG, but there's far more to paint than brand. The best paint in the world can be f-d up by improper prep or application. I'm not just talking about dust or runs or coverage. I'm talking about mixing correctly, adjusting for humidity and temperature. And each system has different quirks. So handing the best paint shop in the world a can of something that they've never used and you might not get the level of quality you were expecting. If you're gonna make brand your top selection criteria, you should follow that up with finding someone, anywhere, who knows that brand and does the level of work you want.

Exactly. 95% prep, 4% painter, 1% paint.

I would probably give a little more credit to the painters skill than 4% in my opinion. Paint runs, orange peel, consistency, and lousy equip come to mind.

I agree, it was just an example. A good painter is a skilled artist.