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> No Start, 1972 914 will not start
Mike1981
post May 13 2018, 08:13 AM
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Hello teeners

Looking for some advice please

I have a 72 V8 conversion (I Know not a real 14)

Really fun to drive

I just tried to start it and I do get power to dash and radio but the fule pump cuts out and no crank when I turn the key to the full starting position.

The 2 things I have notice

1 Battery was low (Now Charging)
2 No cranking no clicking nothing.
3 Fuel pump cuts out
4 flashers tied to the e-brake keep flashing

could it be the e-brake sensor?
Clutch sensor/switch?
Starter?

ignition switch?

Checked all relays and fuses I can find
All seem good.

Thanks

Mike
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Perry Kiehl
post May 13 2018, 06:10 PM
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If you've got a strong battery and feel the starter is OK, pull the spark plugs; maybe you've got a foreign object in a cylinder
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Vacca Rabite
post May 13 2018, 08:00 PM
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The starter draws a TON of power. A dead battery won't even pop the soliniod to engage the starter gear, even if you have enough juice to get some of the lights to work for a little while.

Before panicking, make sure the battery has a good charge and try again. Its likely just the battery.

Zach
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r_towle
post May 13 2018, 08:25 PM
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There is no clutch sensor
There is no ebrake sensor.

Spring awakening, charge up the battery.

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Mike1981
post May 14 2018, 03:04 PM
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Thanks Everyone for your advice.

I measured 12.34 VDC on the battery.

Took it up to NAPA.

NAPA tested it saying it is still good but is discharged to 56%.

I have it on trickle charge 2AMP/hr hope it is the battery.

Mike
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Mike1981
post May 15 2018, 02:54 PM
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Hello

Charged Battery overnight.
It was reading 13.11 volts
Re-installed in car nothing no click no crank no sound.

Crawled under to the starter

12VDC on main lug

Shoved red lead of meter into yellow wire Ignition switch wire I believe

Grounded black lead onto door hinge keep

Turned the key...no power thru the ignition wire....

is there a relay between the ignition switch in the column and the starter?

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=222...ype=3&ifg=1
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Mark Henry
post May 15 2018, 05:26 PM
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First thing you always do, clean all the grounds, trans strap, all power connections, battery terminals, etc., then go from there.

Flashing E-lights makes me think you have a bad connection somewhere, it can do some funky poop.
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Mike1981
post May 15 2018, 05:55 PM
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Good Advice

I will clean battery terminal as well as the ground strap

Thanks

Mike
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rick 918-S
post May 16 2018, 01:12 PM
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I am not a believer in the hot start gizmo. Porsche didn't install it. These cars have started as built for years and years. I'm of the camp that a guy should just fix the real problem not add a Rube Goldberg device.

Before you get too concerned and start added stuff the car never had to fix a problem you haven't really discovered check the battery. If the battery is good do the Ed test. Take a set of "good" jumper cables, connect the positive lead to the battery and the positive post on the starter then the ground to the battery then the transaxle. Start the car. If this works change the battery cables. I chased a bad battery cable for a year, intermittent starts, slow cranking to no start condition. Replaced the stock cable that appeared perfect in every way. I would have used it on a concours car. Fixed the problem without adding the mystery problem solver do-dad.
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jcd914
post May 16 2018, 03:48 PM
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A stock 72 had a starter interlock relay under the passenger seat that prevented starting the car without seat belts fastened.

Your car is not stock so who knows what has been done with the wiring to the starter.

Most car by now have probably had the starter interlock under the passenger seat bypassed. You can check under the passenger seat and see if the yellow and yellow/red wire have been connected together and have a good connection. You can also check for power (12v) on the yellow wire from the ignition switch in start position.

As others have said check for ground problems.

Jim

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xperu
post May 16 2018, 03:51 PM
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QUOTE(Mike1981 @ May 15 2018, 06:55 PM) *

Good Advice

I will clean battery terminal as well as the ground strap

Thanks

Mike

Not just the battery ground, but he body ground straps, disconnect the body straps and clean the connection area.
Example, the on at the exhaust heat shields area under the rear trunk.
I learned this from the forum years ago. Mike
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Mike1981
post May 19 2018, 07:50 AM
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Hello

Well I bought a new battery>

No crank no start

Replacced the ignition switch

No crank no start

Cleaned battery terminals no luck

Next I will begin cleaning all electrical connections with wire brushes.

I removed seat to check realy and found this...should it cut the connecton off and jump the 2 wires together?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-17663-1526737807.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-17663-1526737808.2.jpg)
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rick 918-S
post May 19 2018, 07:02 PM
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Check the relay board connections.
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Mike1981
post May 20 2018, 10:58 AM
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Hello Everyone

I have been cleaning connectors and checking the realy board.

I am getting 12 volts into pin 1 from the ignition switch>

Pin 1 and outgoing Pin 6 ohm out with no resistance.
However no voltage out of pin 6

Checked all 3 relays (all Working)

Scrubbed every connector I could find

Any ideas?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t&id=424733

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jcd914
post May 20 2018, 12:05 PM
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The relay/circuit board in the engine compartment is just a pass through for the started circuit, none of the relays on the board have any impact on the started circuit.

When you are checking for voltage at pin 1 of the 14 pin connector and then again at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector, are the harnesses unplugged or are you back probing the connectors?
Some time a connection can be just strong enough to carry the small voltage of an ohm meter but looses connection with more voltage or load. Also some time the physical force of a connector moves thing enough to break a connection.

You can also test for voltage at the circuit through the panel by testing at T2 (II) or T4 (IV) of the FI socket on the board, both of them are tied to the same circuit.

If you apply power to the wire at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector does the starter crank?

Jim
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MarkV
post May 20 2018, 01:07 PM
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Try smacking the starter with a hammer. The solenoid could be stuck or not making a good connection internally. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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Mark Henry
post May 20 2018, 02:40 PM
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QUOTE(MarkV @ May 20 2018, 03:07 PM) *

Try smacking the starter with a hammer. The solenoid could be stuck or not making a good connection internally. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)


He said he has no power to the yellow wire when key is switched to start, so banging it won't help.

You have to follow the path and figure out why/where the power stops.

It's been years since I did a seat belt interlock, I don't know if that's the issue, but a search on "how to disable the seat belt interlock/buzzer" would give you the instructions and eliminate this point.
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worn
post May 20 2018, 02:52 PM
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I am sorry to tell you now that the seats slide off the rails: you don’t have to unbolt them. Did you disconnect the seat wire or did you find it that way?
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Mike1981
post May 20 2018, 04:44 PM
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QUOTE(jcd914 @ May 20 2018, 02:05 PM) *

The relay/circuit board in the engine compartment is just a pass through for the started circuit, none of the relays on the board have any impact on the started circuit.

When you are checking for voltage at pin 1 of the 14 pin connector and then again at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector, are the harnesses unplugged or are you back probing the connectors?
Some time a connection can be just strong enough to carry the small voltage of an ohm meter but looses connection with more voltage or load. Also some time the physical force of a connector moves thing enough to break a connection.

You can also test for voltage at the circuit through the panel by testing at T2 (II) or T4 (IV) of the FI socket on the board, both of them are tied to the same circuit.

If you apply power to the wire at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector does the starter crank?

Jim


Hello Jim

Thanks for the help, I was checking for voltage with the harnesses unplugged.
I jambed a wire into the socket pin on the harness and turned the key getting voltage on Pin 1 of the 14 pin connector but no voltage from pin 6 of the 12 pin outgoing connector.

I think applying power to pin 6 is a good idea would i connect Plus 12 to pin 6 and the neg terminal to ground?
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Mike1981
post May 20 2018, 04:45 PM
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QUOTE(worn @ May 20 2018, 04:52 PM) *

I am sorry to tell you now that the seats slide off the rails: you don’t have to unbolt them. Did you disconnect the seat wire or did you find it that way?



Thanks

Yes they do slide forward but I was looking for a relay under the seat and needed the room.

I found it disconnected I will cut it off and jump the leads together.

Thanks
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