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> Educate me on grounds, before something bad happens
ericoneal
post Dec 5 2018, 08:34 PM
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In addition to my ignition trouble in my other thread, my starter stopped working as well. I took it out tonight and noticed that the solenoid was loose AND the rubber boot thing with (formerly?) braided wires that connects from a lead to the starter body was broke. No connection anymore between the solenoid and the starter.

Attached Image

Took it off:

Attached Image


I figure this is some sort of ground for the Solenoid? I put the starter motor back on and ran a wire from that lead to the tranmission ground strap, then went to connect the ground wire back on to the battery and it was really sparky. That didnt seem right, so I then went to attach the new wire to the starter body, and KAPOW! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

So whats the purpose of the rubber braided thing from the solenoid to the starter? Should I make a connection somewhere else?

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Spoke
post Dec 5 2018, 09:04 PM
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That is 12V power to the starter motor. The ground for the starter is the body so no ground wire needed.

The solenoid is a relay which closes when the starter is engaged. By turning the key, you merely energize the solenoid. From there when the solenoid pushes the starter gear into the flywheel, it also completes the 12V connection from the large bolt and big red wire from the battery to the other large bolt which goes to the starter motor to turn the motor.

You may be best off buying a new starter.
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rph20355
post Dec 5 2018, 09:17 PM
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That braided wire is not the ground. That braided wire is the switched positive to the starter motor. Battery positive cable is attached to the other round copper post. When solenoid is energized with 12+v from ignition switch (via small wire attached to flat spade connector) the contact inside the solenoid connects the battery positive round copper post to the braided wire post sending 12+v to the starter motor (that braided wire is/should be insulated from the starter case). The starter is grounded by mounting it to the engine block. I've never seen that braided wire separate like that. Maybe caused by the very loose solenoid pulling on it? Also not sure what you meant by "ran a wire from that lead to the transmission ground strap" The lead on the solenoid? Or the remaining braid going to the starter? Either way, something's wrong and you'll probably need a new/rebuilt starter.
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SirAndy
post Dec 5 2018, 09:40 PM
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QUOTE(ericoneal @ Dec 5 2018, 06:34 PM) *
... Educate me on grounds ...

That ain't ground ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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Mark Henry
post Dec 5 2018, 09:46 PM
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If you have a electric motor/auto electric shop in your area they likely can repair it.
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mepstein
post Dec 5 2018, 09:58 PM
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We take all our starters and alternators to a local shop to be rebuilt before we install since it cost less to rebuild $75-100 than the labor costs to remove and replace once installed in the car. See if you have anyone local that can restore yours.
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Larmo63
post Dec 5 2018, 10:11 PM
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You had a 50-50 shot and you chose wrong.

I'd get a new starter or have that one rebuilt. Starters are super cheap and easy to install.
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cgnj
post Dec 6 2018, 01:31 AM
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Well, your not inspiring confidence that you located TDC on your other thread. Here's a link 914 Factory Service Manuals Next time you visit HarborFreight use the coupon for the free meter and pick up a continuity tester.
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Tdskip
post Dec 6 2018, 08:40 AM
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Some cars just don't like being woken up and put into use, but there are a finite number of things that they need to be usable. Think of it this way, if it helps Eric, you are doing all the things to sort her out for a nice long stretch of driving fun. Keep pressing on.

If you come across a system / component you aren't familiar with it may be a good idea to ask. Everyone is a new wrench, or new to wrenching on these cars, at some point and the people here have been extremely encouraging and patient with me when I ask basic questions. Let's try to make sure we don't create any more issues for you to sort out if you are guessing as to how a component works.

As the guys have said a local rebuilder can turn that around quickly, or a replacement can be had quickly.

Make sure the battery is disconnected before replacing a starter,
and now is a good time to make sure the battery is on a trickle charger so it is fresh/strong when it is ready to be used again.

Assuming that your not-running issues still exists it is probably a good idea to have replacement plug wires and cap and rotor on hand as well, you can always return them if not needed.

Carlos made a good suggestion about a multimeter, make sure to have a decent one available.

How about if we get the starter sorted out and then we try to tackle the running issue?
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ericoneal
post Dec 6 2018, 09:20 AM
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Thanks. To clarify, the starter went out when local member sdoolin and I were working on the other issue. I assume thats when the braided piece finally broke and ended the night early. I'm picking up one from autozone at lunch today (I know, but it will at least get me going) and putting that on. Hopefully that will sort the starter problem out. Battery is fully charged, was disconnected when pulling the starter. The massive spark came from touching the wire in question to the starter once it was back in.
As far as finding TDC, I did that, then Steve and I both did that using the fan mark, but maybe its not true? A few months back I was having a similar issue where the engine spontaneously went out of time. Maybe this has happened again, although not sure how that can happen, distributor was tight.
So, my plan now after its cranking, is to set TDC again using the fan mark then look at the valves on #1. That will should tell me for sure.
And as suggeted, I received new plugs, wires, and multimeter yesterday and I think have distributor cap in the basement. Will put all of those on one at a time and test.

Not giving up, I will solve this.



QUOTE(Tdskip @ Dec 6 2018, 09:40 AM) *

Some cars just don't like being woken up and put into use, but there are a finite number of things that they need to be usable. Think of it this way, if it helps Eric, you are doing all the things to sort her out for a nice long stretch of driving fun. Keep pressing on.

If you come across a system / component you aren't familiar with it may be a good idea to ask. Everyone is a new wrench, or new to wrenching on these cars, at some point and the people here have been extremely encouraging and patient with me when I ask basic questions. Let's try to make sure we don't create any more issues for you to sort out if you are guessing as to how a component works.

As the guys have said a local rebuilder can turn that around quickly, or a replacement can be had quickly.

Make sure the battery is disconnected before replacing a starter,
and now is a good time to make sure the battery is on a trickle charger so it is fresh/strong when it is ready to be used again.

Assuming that your not-running issues still exists it is probably a good idea to have replacement plug wires and cap and rotor on hand as well, you can always return them if not needed.

Carlos made a good suggestion about a multimeter, make sure to have a decent one available.

How about if we get the starter sorted out and then we try to tackle the running issue?

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mepstein
post Dec 6 2018, 09:26 AM
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Make sure the replacement is a proper fit or you can create more problems.
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