Surgical Choices? |
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Surgical Choices? |
bkrantz |
Nov 16 2019, 06:29 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
A question for the collective: where best to cut for a front right corner splice? My floor is original and straight, except for the outer-most corner, where it is bashed in. The front panel was replaced once before (at least all but the left 1/3). The inner fender was crumpled a bit.
This photo shows the donor clip. Some options, as I can see it: Red: separate the seam between the floor and the inner fender and front panel. I will then have to straighten and probably patch a bit of the original floor in the outer corner. Yellow: cut the floor between the reinforcement for the forward suspension mounting and the vertical brace. Might be challenging to get a good weld with sandwiched metal. Purple: variation on Red or Yellow to transplant more of the front panel. The donor panel is straight below the weatherstrip channel but dented a bit lower down by the holes. The receiving car panel is straight lower down but got dinged pretty good along part of the upper edge. Other options or ideas? Attached thumbnail(s) |
bkrantz |
Nov 16 2019, 06:30 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
And here is the receiving car.
Attached thumbnail(s) |
bbrock |
Nov 16 2019, 09:39 PM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I'd do the red one. Less butt weld that route so less grinding and body work.
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bkrantz |
Nov 17 2019, 10:18 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Thanks. Any other ideas?
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roblav1 |
Nov 18 2019, 06:18 AM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 528 Joined: 18-September 12 From: KY Member No.: 14,943 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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cn2800 |
Nov 18 2019, 11:37 AM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 119 Joined: 11-August 14 From: Amarillo, Texas Member No.: 17,766 Region Association: None |
Agree with the others on the red outline. I did a similar repair a year or so ago. The professional body guy helping me out kept repeating that you want to leave as much of the original metal on the car as you can. Having that extra little wing on the floor pan still there will give you a larger original surface for locating the new part. Bear in mind there will be a seemingly endless number of spot welds to drill out.
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bkrantz |
Nov 18 2019, 03:44 PM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Thanks, everyone. I did more surgery on the car, following the Red Line plan to preserve the original floor corner. Now I can confirm what I thought: the metal is solid (no rust) but pretty banged up. And so is the outer part of the front panel.
Attached thumbnail(s) |
bkrantz |
Nov 18 2019, 03:45 PM
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#8
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Here's a closeup of the floor corner.
Attached thumbnail(s) |
bkrantz |
Nov 18 2019, 03:49 PM
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#9
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
My donor clip is very straight but has some rust-through, along the top edge and where the bumper mount reinforcement backs up the panel. The floor corner, inner fender wall, and seams look rust-free.
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dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Nov 18 2019, 03:49 PM
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#10
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,813 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
replace the least to get the job done, and drill out as many spot welds as possible.
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dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Nov 18 2019, 03:50 PM
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#11
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,813 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
make sure the car is very very straight before welding any new parts in
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bbrock |
Nov 18 2019, 03:50 PM
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#12
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Thanks, everyone. I did more surgery on the car, following the Red Line plan to preserve the original floor corner. Now I can confirm what I thought: the metal is solid (no rust) but pretty banged up. And so is the outer part of the front panel. Nice work. If you can't bring that banged up floor corner back with a hammer, you'll probably have to chop the tip off and splice from the donor. I still think you are ahead of the game going this route. Still less butt weld, and the weld will be buried under your headlight where no one will see. |
bkrantz |
Nov 18 2019, 03:54 PM
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#13
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
So again I have choices:
For the floor corner, work it back into shape, guided by the donor inner fender, or splice in the donor floor. For the front panel, work the end back into shape, or replace it with a section from the donor, and patch new metal where rusty. If I straighten and keep the original floor and front, I will be transplanting the inner fender and the headlight box only. All suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance and helping me think through this. |
bbrock |
Nov 18 2019, 04:00 PM
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#14
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
If it were me, I'd try to work as much as I could back to shape. Both your floor and front piece look like they may be beyond my skillset, but I would try anyway. The more you can plug weld along flanges, the better. If they can't be worked back to shape, you still have the backup option available.
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sixnotfour |
Nov 18 2019, 04:02 PM
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#15
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,409 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Note that your using a 70-72 front clip to repair your 73-74, the only difference is the extra flat spot for where the bumper has a extra brace and pad..that gives added crash protection..
Attached image(s) |
roblav1 |
Nov 18 2019, 06:06 PM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 528 Joined: 18-September 12 From: KY Member No.: 14,943 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Concur with Brent again.
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bkrantz |
Nov 18 2019, 09:28 PM
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#17
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Thanks, everyone. I am inclined now to see how straight/restored I can get the floor corner and the front panel. I am not inclined to splice in parts that have rust to fix.
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bkrantz |
Nov 18 2019, 09:31 PM
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#18
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Note that your using a 70-72 front clip to repair your 73-74, the only difference is the extra flat spot for where the bumper has a extra brace and pad..that gives added crash protection.. Thanks. I do know the clip is older, since it also lacks the semi-circular horizontal braces. Another reason to keep the original front panel (or at least as much as possible. |
bkrantz |
Nov 19 2019, 09:14 PM
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#19
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,728 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Rough work to start getting the floor corner back in shape. Sorry for the bad focus.
Attached thumbnail(s) |
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